Tokyo Shopping Guide: A Must-Visit Guide to Japan's Oldest Department Store

Nihonbashi, located near Ginza and Tokyo Station, flourished as a commercial center during the Edo period. At the bridge approach stands a bronze marker called the "Japan National Road Origin Point," which marks the starting point of the five major roads that traverse Japan from north to south.

Today, Nihonbashi is not just a bridge but also a commercial district, where centuries-old traditional shops and modern department stores together create a unique Tokyo atmosphere in Nihonbashi.

The Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store is the oldest existing department store in Japan. The Renaissance-style building itself has been designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.

Mitsukoshi Department Store, which just celebrated its 350th anniversary last year, has a lion statue at its entrance symbolizing the store. With its marble-based vintage renovation style, carved brass elevators, and retro stained glass ceilings, the entire Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store exudes a strong "old money" vibe.

In 2018, the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, redesigned under the direction of Kengo Kuma, reopened after renovation. The lighting design on the first floor of the main building follows the theme of "White Shimmering Forest," which is stylish and minimalist yet elegant. However, the historical parts of the building have been completely preserved and integrated with the new space.

Stepping into the historically rich Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, you cannot miss the huge wooden carved statue of a celestial maiden in the five-story atrium. This approximately 11-meter-high wood carving is the late work of the famous Japanese sculptor Genzo Sato, who spent ten years creating it at Myoshinji Temple in Kyoto. It was a commemorative piece for the 50th anniversary of the founding of Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Department Store in 1960. Placed in the marble-paved central hall, it is truly magnificent.

The surface of this five-story-tall giant sculpture is adorned with countless precious decorations. Such a massive artwork cannot be seen in other Japanese department stores.

This Renaissance-style building has been selected as a historic building by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. The stained glass ceiling and the beautifully carved plaster walls exude a luxurious artistic ambiance.

Behind the celestial maiden statue on the second floor, there is a 90-year-old pipe organ. Live performances are held at 12:00 PM, 3:00 PM, and 5:00 PM on weekends. Listening to the organ in the central hall is very impressive, giving you the feeling of being in a church.

On the wall of the staircase leading from the first-floor central hall to the second floor, there is a hidden "Easter egg": you can clearly see the fossils of ammonites here! Besides the framed fossils on the wall, there are other hidden fossils. Feel free to explore and see how many fossils you can find.

On the second floor, behind the celestial maiden statue, there is a historical area displaying antique exhibits from Mitsukoshi's 350th anniversary last year.

With a history of over 110 years, Mitsukoshi Art has always been a stage for artists to showcase their works. In recent years, the "Art Gallery" on the 6th floor of the main building of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, reborn as a new aesthetic space, has become a brand-new art plaza in Nihonbashi. Covering a wide range from classic art to contemporary art, this art floor has reopened, gathering an even more diverse array of Japanese artists, including Western paintings, Japanese paintings, prints, ceramics, sculptures, and more.

At the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, you are fortunate to appreciate many artworks by Japan's "Living National Treasures." Living National Treasures are individuals designated as holders of Important Intangible Cultural Properties by the Minister of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology under the Japanese Cultural Properties Protection Law. This is somewhat similar to China's Intangible Cultural Heritage inheritors, but the scope is narrower, the system stricter, and it carries greater credibility.

Apart from artworks of high artistic value, the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store regularly holds solo exhibitions of Japanese lifeware craftsmen. These items are affordable and diverse, all carefully selected by Mitsukoshi Art from Japanese artisans. Monthly exhibition information is announced in advance on the official website and Instagram.

The "Tea Utensil Salon" is a dedicated area for displaying items related to the Japanese tea ceremony. Tea ceremony tools, calligraphy scrolls, tea ceremony essentials, and tea-related accessories can all be found here.

I also frequently visit the Japanese boutique miscellaneous goods area on the 4th floor of the main building. Each item made by Japanese artisans using traditional Japanese techniques and materials can be called an "artwork." Items like furoshiki, fans, and Japanese incense are perfect as gifts. Additionally, there are exquisite items depicting the scenery of Nihonbashi.

Various patterns of furoshiki are sold here. Furoshiki can wrap items of any size or shape, making gift wrapping more special.

The watch floor on the 6th floor is also a major feature of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store. Among the several Mitsukoshi department stores, only this one has a "Watch Museum." It feels like admiring works in an art museum or exhibition hall, with a selection of both Japanese and international watch brands, as well as diverse products like diamonds, pearls, and colored gemstones.

The Swiss high-end mechanical watch brand FRANCK MULLER salon offers everything from new models to classic designs, as well as home accessories.

I accompanied my best friend to try on several Longines watches. I must say, the recent square-shaped dial designs from Longines are truly elegant and grand, plus the favorable exchange rate makes buying watches in Japan highly recommended.

A few specialty snacks recommended by my Tokyo best friend from the food floor of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store: "Saihou Kajitsu" is a popular fruit jelly candy gift box that tightly concentrates the deliciousness of fruits. There are also gift boxes exclusive to the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store.

Hugh Morgan is a specialty brand dealing in vanilla from around the world. Their signature item is a vanilla-flavored butter sandwich, with vanilla brandy made from Indonesian Tahitian vanilla added to the butter cream, giving it a unique floral aroma. One bite releases a savory vanilla jam that slowly oozes out, leaving a lingering aftertaste. It is only sold at the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store.

YOKUMOKU cookies have a crispy texture with a delicate matcha flavor. The refreshing matcha made from Uji matcha, exclusive to the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, is often used in high-end tea ceremonies and tea confections.

The rooftop garden of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store is really understated. If I hadn't gone up there with my Tokyo best friend this time, I would never have known that the rooftop garden is so beautiful!

The Mie Shrine in the garden is the guardian deity of the Mitsui family. Since it surrounds the word "Mitsui," it also means "protecting Mitsui." Since the Edo period, the Mitsui family has worshipped it as a protective shrine. On September 21, 1914 (Taisho 3), it was enshrined on the roof of the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, which succeeded the Mitsui Echigoya.

Actually, among all the commercial facilities or department stores in Tokyo, the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store is personally my favorite. It lacks the crowds of Ginza, offering an excellent shopping experience. Moreover, the service at the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store is the best among all the department stores I have visited. The sense of appropriate boundaries makes people feel very comfortable. When you step into any counter, the salesperson will slightly bow to acknowledge you but will not disturb you. If you need anything, a simple eye contact will bring the salesperson promptly to your side. In my opinion, this is the highest level of Japanese service in department stores: neither neglect nor excessive enthusiasm. The best service is when you don't notice anything special but just feel extremely comfortable. In Shanghai dialect, the highest level is having a sense of boundaries and being "ling de qing" (savvy and appropriate).

If you find Ginza too crowded, consider Nihonbashi. From Ginza to Nihonbashi, you can take the Hanzomon Line or Ginza Line to Mitsukoshimae Station, which only takes about ten minutes. Exiting the station directly connects you to the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store.