Winter Tokyo: Offbeat Adventures
A family trip: total expenses for food, accommodation, and transportation came to RMB 38,000.
Photography equipment used: Sony a7C and Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 DG DN lens.
Travel tips: Japan high-speed WiFi translation device, passport (valid for more than 6 months), visa, Japan transport IC card, SIM card, power adapter, power bank.
Essential phone apps: Google Maps, Norikae Annai, Alipay.
Useful website: Fujimi Yoho (Mt. Fuji visibility forecast).
Drugstores: Matsumoto Kiyoshi 10:00-22:00, Sundrug 10:00-22:00, Daikoku Drug 9:00-22:00, Don Quijote 24 hours.
February 1, 2025, Day 1:
Morning: Departed from Shanghai Hongqiao International Airport (T1) at 9:35 on China Eastern MU537—arrived at Tokyo Haneda Airport (T3) at 13:30 (round-trip adult fare: 4,914 yuan, round-trip child fare: 3,755 yuan). Actually arrived at 13:15 (local time 12:15, all times below are local time). Arriving early at the destination was commendable; lucky to see Mount Fuji. Cleared customs and collected luggage smoothly, reached the Keikyu Line subway station entrance at 13:06. After exiting Haneda T3, it's straight ahead and to the right. However, I wasted 30 minutes here because a friend's family wanted to meet up and go to Kamakura together, but their flight arrived at Terminal 2. Haneda Airport is huge, and the two terminals seemed "a thousand miles apart."
Afternoon: At 13:40, took the Keikyu Airport Line Express (toward Zushi·Hayama) from Haneda Airport Terminal 3 Bus Pool—9 stops to Yokohama Station, transferred to JR Shonan Shinjuku Line (Zushi direction)—5 stops to Kamakura Station (fare: 730 yen/person). The journey to Kamakura, the first stop of this Japan trip, was not very smooth. I actually got lost inside Yokohama Station for over an hour; Yokohama Station has 10 platforms, and some subway transfers require exiting the station first. Eventually, I asked a local and learned I needed to transfer at Platform 9. By the time I arrived in Kamakura, it was already dark. At 16:10, checked in at Kamakura Tosei Coconni Hotel (1,694.82 yuan/night, 340 meters walk from JR Kamakura Station), rested for a while.
Evening: At 18:30, headed to Kamakura Komachi Street. The Kamakura district isn't large; after about a 10-minute walk, you'll see the entrance to Komachi Street on the left. Komachi Street, a few centuries ago just an unremarkable street market, is now lined with shops, numerous cafes, restaurants, cake shops, and bakeries. Although I arrived quite late, I could still feel its charm. However, Komachi Street closes early; it's not recommended to visit after 18:00. Running parallel to Komachi Street, Wakamiya Oji leads directly to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, located in Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, and is one of the three major Hachimangu shrines. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu was founded in 1063 and has a history of over 800 years. Because I arrived late, only a few couples were strolling and praying inside the shrine. After a quick night visit to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, I found Hana no Honō Kamakura - Yakiniku Jumbo (Kanagawa Prefecture, Kamakura City, Komachi 1-chome 6-15 Aiza Kamakura 3F). The beef at this restaurant was super delicious, average cost 2,571 yen per person.
February 2, 2025, Day 2:
Morning: Checked out at 9:17. A winter Kamakura tour. Since I was in Kamakura, I had to ride the Enoden tram. Took it from Kamakura Station to Inamuragasaki Station, then walked along the coastal road admiring the deep blue sea, all the way to Shichirigahama Station. But it rained incessantly along the way. Spotted an Amalfi Caffe and decided to take shelter. Went up to the second floor for a cup of coffee and a slice of cake, gazing at the long Shonan coastline—it was quite enjoyable.
Midday: The rain finally stopped at about 12:35, so I immediately set off for the next stop, Kamakura High School Mae Station. Needless to say, this station is famous because of a well-known Japanese anime. Every time the little green train slowly passes through this crossroad, waves of people take photos that replicate their memories—Kamakura memories.
Afternoon: On the way to Enoshima, passed by Kii no Kuniya Shokudo (Kanagawa Prefecture, Fujisawa City, Katase Kaigan 1-chome 13-16). The restaurant had many customers, so I decided to have lunch there. This restaurant serves typical Japanese set meals; the teishoku is very Japanese style, average cost 1,571 yen per person. Arrived at Enoshima at 15:25. Due to limited time, I made a quick visit to the island and then hurried to Tokyo.
Evening: At 17:57, took the JR Yokosuka Line (toward Chiba) from Kamakura Station—12 stops to Shimbashi Station (fare: 824 yen/person). This train has double-deck cars with very few passengers, but it requires an additional fee of 1,000 yen per person; you can also go to the adjacent car, but that car had more passengers. At 18:50, walked to Tokyo First Hotel (connecting room 5,428 yuan/night, 180 meters walk from Uchisaiwaicho Subway Station). After checking in, found a Hakata Tengen nearby (Shinbashi 2-8-15 NS Plaza Shinbashi Building 1F) and had a bowl of ramen, average cost 1,025 yen per person. All Japanese ramen shops are delicious, but you have to queue, queue, and queue.
February 3, 2025, Day 3:
Morning: At 7:20, headed to Mount Fuji. For a lazy person, a chartered car service is the best choice (10 hours, 10 seats, 3,660 yuan). It's advisable to book the chartered car in advance. 12 years ago, I first visited Oshino Hakkai and was lucky to see Mount Fuji. 12 years later, visiting Mount Fuji again, I hoped to see it once more. But before departure, I was told it had snowed heavily on Mount Fuji the previous day, with very low visibility. Arrived at the first stop, Arakurayama Sengen Park, at 9:00. Here you can enjoy a distant view of Mount Fuji, but unfortunately, it was shrouded in thick fog and nowhere to be seen. Arrived at the second stop, Lake Kawaguchi, at 11:30. Only a lake was visible, with few tourists. Except for the Mt. Tenjo ropeway, which had a queue, it was still foggy and Mount Fuji was invisible. Arrived at the third stop, Lawson Kawaguchiko Yakuba-mae, at 12:35, still foggy, no Mount Fuji.
Afternoon: Arrived at the fourth stop, Tenjō Town (also known as "Ladder Town"), at 13:20. Still foggy, no Mount Fuji. Had a matcha ice cream and left quickly. Arrived at the final stop, Oshino Hakkai, at 14:15. It is a group of spring ponds in Oshino Village between Lake Yamanaka and Lake Kawaguchi, named for eight clear springs scattered irregularly. Walking here, ponds connect to ponds, streams link to streams, with small bridges, flowing water, and houses everywhere, evoking the poetic imagery of "Moonlight shines through the pines, clear spring flows over stones" and "Plucking chrysanthemums by the eastern hedge, leisurely gazing at the southern mountain." Around 15:00, just as I was about to leave, Mount Fuji parted the clouds, woke from its slumber, and revealed its true face. The mountain was beautiful, and I was fortunate to see it again. After about a 2-hour drive back to Tokyo's Ginza, went to Kyushu Jangara Ramen (Chuo-ku, Ginza 6-12-17 Ginza Katagiri Building 1F) for ramen. The restaurant is small with exquisitely decorated interiors, and the ramen broth was very rich. Average cost 1,571 yen per person, with about an hour's wait in line.
February 4, 2025, Day 4:
Morning: At 9:47, took the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line (toward Takasaki) from Shimbashi Station—1 stop to Tokyo Station, transferred to JR Keiyo Line (toward Shin-Narashino)—5 stops to Maihama Station, transferred to Disney Resort Line (toward Tokyo DisneySea direction)—3 stops to Tokyo Disneyland Station (fare: 530 yen/person). Arrived at Tokyo Disneyland at 10:38. No tips for visiting Disneyland with kids; there were huge crowds, and most attractions had wait times of about 100–200 minutes.
Evening: At 18:30, took the Disney Resort Line from Tokyo Disneyland Station—1 stop to Resort Gateway/Maihama Station (fare: 300 yen/person). Didn't get to ride many attractions that day, and I was already exhausted. Originally planned to go to Ningyocho Imahan, but it was fully booked and requires advance reservation. So I went to Tajimaya, a shabu-shabu hot pot restaurant. They have a clear broth base, and the ingredients were quite good. Average cost 2,843 yen per person for 90 minutes; the restaurant has time limits: 90 minutes and 120 minutes options with different prices. At 21:02, took the Keiyo Line (toward Tokyo) from Maihama Station—5 stops to Tokyo Station, transferred to JR Yamanote Line (toward Shinagawa)—1 stop to Shimbashi Station (fare: 230 yen/person).
February 5, 2025, Day 5:
Morning: At 9:31, took the Yamanote Line (toward Shinagawa) from Shimbashi Station—4 stops to Shinjuku Station (fare: 208 yen/person). Went to Isetan Department Store (Shinjuku 3-14-1) and Takashimaya (Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2) and other shopping malls, starting shopping mode; didn't even have time to look for food. Japanese stores generally close at 20:00, so shopping requires careful planning of itinerary and time.
Evening: At 17:30, went to Meitetsu Tonkatsu (Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Shinjuku Takashimaya). Queuing is a must. This restaurant's tonkatsu was excellent, average cost 3,143 yen per person. At 19:58, took the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line (toward Ikebukuro) from Shinjuku Station—2 stops to Akasaka-mitsuke Station, transferred to Tokyo Metro Ginza Line (toward Asakusa)—3 stops to Shimbashi Station (fare: 210 yen/person).
February 6, 2025, Day 6:
Morning: At 9:48, took the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line (toward Shibuya) from Shimbashi Station—3 stops to Akasaka-mitsuke Station, transferred to Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line (toward Nakano-fujimicho)—1 stop to Shinjuku-sanchome Station (fare: 210 yen/person), went to Isetan Department Store to queue.
Midday: At 11:20, took the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line (toward Motomachi-Chinatown) from Shinjuku-sanchome Station—2 stops to Shibuya Station (fare: 178 yen/person). Went to Shabu-shabu Lettuce (Shibuya 2-24-12, Shibuya Scramble Square 12F) for lunch. This restaurant serves sukiyaki-style hot pot buffet. Very lucky—no queue. The ingredients were fresh and the taste was great. Average cost 2,850 yen per person.
Afternoon: At 13:56, took the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line (toward Asakusa) from Shibuya Station—4 stops to Shimbashi Station (fare: 180 yen/person). Went shopping at Ginza Matsuya (Chuo-ku, Ginza 3-chome 6-1).
February 7, 2025, Day 7:
Morning: After arriving in Tokyo, I was busy taking the kid to Tokyo Disneyland; busy shopping in Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, etc.; I didn't even find time to visit Tokyo Tower even though my hotel was near it. Only this morning, just before leaving Tokyo, did I finally find time to go to Tokyo Tower. At 10:06, took the Toei Asakusa Line Limited Express (toward Haneda Airport Terminal 1·2) from Shimbashi Station—1 stop to Daimon Station (fare: 180 yen/person), walked to Tokyo Tower. Tokyo Tower is a radio tower located in Shiba Park, Tokyo, and is a landmark of Tokyo. The first floor has an aquarium and restaurants, the second floor has many shops and cafes. From Tokyo Tower you can get a panoramic view of Tokyo. Due to limited time, I made a quick visit to Tokyo Tower and then rushed to Haneda Airport. At 13:22, took the Toei Asakusa Line (toward Aoto) from Daimon Station—1 stop to Shimbashi Station (fare: 178 yen/person).
Afternoon: At 14:05, took the Toei Asakusa Line Limited Express (toward Haneda Airport Terminal 1·2) from Shimbashi Station—11 stops to Haneda Airport Terminal 3 Bus Pool (fare: 505 yen/person).
Evening: Departed from Tokyo Haneda Airport (T3) at 17:10 on China Eastern FM896—arrived at Shanghai Pudong International Airport (T1) at 20:00 (round-trip adult fare: 4,914 yuan, round-trip child fare: 3,755 yuan). The actual departure was delayed by 15 minutes, but we arrived in Shanghai on time. A great flying experience.
