The Land of Neon After Six Years: A Kansai Journal
Since the first travelogue about Japan has already come into being, why not take a look back at the record and journal of my entry into Japan on July 17th!
. July 2019 was the last time I was in Japan; that trip only lasted a week. It's a pity that I only used 7 days of my three-year visa. Then came the pandemic, and for almost four years, I could barely move. This time, landing in Osaka, I more or less explored Kansai thoroughly. Aside from being attracted by the extremely low airfare, I probably won't stay in Kansai again.
. On July 17th, I had a smooth entry at Osaka Kansai International Airport. Since I had applied for the QR code in advance, everything became so simple.
. I stayed at an apartment hotel near Osaka's Jusō Station. Jusō is just one stop from Osaka Station, super convenient, yet much more affordable. Right outside the station is a shopping street; a 3-minute walk brought me to the hotel, which was fully self-check-in. In the lobby, I scanned a QR code, checked in on my phone, had a video call with the hotel's backend, got the door code, and the next few days were completely my own space.
. On the afternoon of the 17th, I strolled around the neighborhood to get a preliminary feel for the living pace and prices of the neighboring country. Because of the exchange rate, I had to constantly do mental conversions—it indeed takes some getting used to.
. On the 18th, after waking up, I ate some noodles nearby, then went to Umeda area, later picked up a friend at the airport, and bought the JR 5-Day Pass. A round trip to the airport alone made it worthwhile. In the afternoon, I visited Shinsaibashi and Dōtonbori.
. On the morning of the 19th, I checked out and headed to Himeji Castle with my luggage. Passing through Kobe, I first went to the hotel in Sannomiya to store my luggage, then traveled light. I spent most of the day at Himeji Castle, returned to Kobe in the afternoon, and played around Kobe for the rest of the day. Using the pass, I took the seaside train. In the evening, I went to Kobe Port and happened to catch a Japanese fireworks display and a weekend market in the square. Kobe is truly a place worth visiting—not only are the port views charming, but Kobe beef is absolutely divine.
. On the morning of the 20th, I took a train from Sannomiya, Kobe, to Kyoto, visiting the highlights: Kinkaku-ji, Kiyomizu-dera, and specially checked out Ōkōchi Sansō (actually Rurikō-in? Note: original says 琉璃光院 which is usually Rurikō-in). In the afternoon, I returned to Kobe's Sannomiya to pick up my luggage, then went back to Osaka to check into a minshuku (private lodging).
. On the 21st, I had originally booked Universal Studios Japan, but then I found out that day was a Japanese public holiday. I thought it would be very crowded and was ready to take a rest day. However, I stumbled upon the World Expo, and on a whim, I managed to secure a ticket. Well, it turned out to be another day of barbecue and walking at the Expo.
. On the 22nd, as expected, I spent the entire day at Universal Studios from 7 AM to 10 PM. At 11:20 PM, I boarded a comfortable night bus from Namba's OCAT and landed at Tokyo's Yaesu at 6:20 AM on the 23rd.
Tōkyō, tadaima!
About transportation—The best deal with the JR 5-Day Pass is the limited express train from Kansai Airport to the city, which is more than twice as fast as the local train. It's not registered to any name, so anyone can use it. But people like me who happened to pick up two flights in three days are rare, so that's negligible. However, in Osaka, you often need to take private railways and trams, so plan your itinerary before deciding whether to buy it. When you arrive in Kyoto, buy the one-day subway and tram pass immediately—it's 100 yen a day, a great deal, because the trams can be really expensive, and in Kyoto, most attractions are connected by buses.
About accommodation—In Kansai, whether in Nara, Kyoto, or Osaka, if you buy the 5-Day Pass, I strongly recommend staying put in Osaka—Umeda, Namba, Jusō, or other places just one stop from Osaka. There's no need to change hotels, because the trains are very convenient. Kyoto and Nara are noticeably more expensive and not as spacious as Osaka's minshuku. A day trip is totally hassle-free. If you insist on staying one night in Kyoto, just quietly skip this advice.
Kobe beef is a must-eat, absolutely must-eat. And Kobe is relatively off the beaten path, a resort paradise for Japanese people themselves. Avoid weekends and holidays, and Kobe is a really great choice. I've already been to Nara twice, so I didn't go this time. But I caught the rare twice-a-year opening of Rurikō-in in Kyoto. Also, Sanzen-in is far more interesting than Fushimi Inari Taisha—after all, that place is a shrine. All shrines in Japan enshrine war criminals, so it is not recommended for Chinese people to visit or take photos there.
