Retracing the Study Journey of Chinese Students a Century Ago in Tokyo, Japan

A hundred years ago, Chinese students had already set foot in Tokyo. Pioneers like Lu Xun and Li Dazhao crossed the ocean, arrived in a foreign land, and sought paths to save the nation and strengthen it. After coming to Japan, besides experiencing Japanese-style charm, I also wanted to follow in their footsteps and see the buildings and landscapes on the streets of Tokyo that could tell the stories of those students.

Following the life trajectory of Chinese students from a century ago, I visited cultural landmark neighborhoods like Jimbocho and Ochanomizu, and explored a place called the Centennial Overseas Students Memorial Hall, revisiting the struggles and ideals of those students, and experiencing that youthful memory across time and space within the urban fabric.

Through authentic historical materials and interactive exhibitions, the memorial hall recreates the spiritual outlook of a generation of Chinese youth studying in Japan. The hall features themed murals, historical materials exhibition areas, and hosts lectures, research, cultural salons, and other activities, striving to make history less distant and ideas flow again.

Nishi-Shinjuku is a place rarely visited by Chinese tourists, but there is a very famous sculpture called "Love" there, a representative work of the well-known American artist Robert Indiana. It is said that if a person with unrequited love can pass through between the 'V' and 'E' without touching the sculpture, their love will come true; if a couple walks through holding hands, they are said to get married. It's a great spot for photos, so when you come to Nishi-Shinjuku, be sure to take a picture.

After passing through Love, you'll see a sunken plaza, which is Shinjuku's i·land Plaza. Besides Japanese cuisine restaurants, cafes, Hong Kong cuisine, and curry rice, as you walk around the sunken circle, you'll discover a "Centennial Overseas Students Memorial Hall" hidden away from the bustle.

Upon pushing open the door and entering, the clean and bright public space made me very curious about what kind of memorial hall this really is. And who is it commemorating?

But what piqued my curiosity even more was the mural I saw when I looked up.

A staff member at the memorial hall explained that this mural was painted by a Japanese person living in Shanghai. Almost every little figure has a name, including Lu Xun, Qiu Jin, He Xiangning, Liao Zhongkai, and other famous people. In addition, famous Japanese universities and major scenic spots are all included. The most interesting part is that there are three little cats in the painting, which are the artist's own pets. Can you find where they are hidden?

Back to the theme: Who does the memorial hall commemorate? As its name suggests, it commemorates Chinese students who came to Japan a hundred years ago. This year's TV drama "The Promise of a Century" made many people aware of the life stories of Japanese overseas students a hundred years ago, and this memorial hall tells exactly that.

Countless students wrote endless pages of diaries during their study abroad days, recording their life and thoughts. These unknown stories have all been preserved by the memorial hall and displayed through diverse means.

What impressed me most was a restored student dormitory.

This small room is only four and a half tatami mats in size, less than eight square meters. The students of that time read, lived, and even ate in a room like this. With a low small table, a dim kerosene lamp, and the "New Youth" magazine brought from home, the austere and hard student life unfolded right before my eyes.

Those who have studied history should be familiar with "New Youth."

I took off my shoes, stepped into the small room, sat on the cushion, and pretended to be a student from a hundred years ago—no internet, no phone, only letters to express my longing and worries.

There is also an interactive AI device here. You can have a conversation with a young student from the past, tell him your story, choose your troubles, and he will give you a solution and a word that might encourage you.

Different choices naturally lead to different solutions, and you'll receive a free sticker that you can stick on your phone case or a notebook as a small souvenir.

Especially if you choose the Japanese version, it feels super like an anime!

Although the whole hall is not large, a docent accompanied me, carefully answering my questions and introducing the history. It was very interesting and took about an hour to explore.

After finishing, you can take photos in front of the logo wall. Oh, I almost forgot, they also provide Japanese school uniforms for trying on, including a very cool cloak or a Japanese high school boy's uniform, which I think looks a bit like a Zhongshan suit, haha. Wearing the uniform while touring the hall gives a special feeling.

By the way, the memorial hall specifically mentioned a place called Jimbocho. It might not be very well-known among Chinese tourists visiting Japan, but if you've heard of Lu Xun (how could you not have heard of Lu Xun?), then it's worth going to see this place. Because Lu Xun had a deep connection with a place called Uchiyama Bookstore.

After leaving the memorial hall, I went to Jimbocho. It's very convenient to take the train from Shinjuku to Jimbocho. Walking ten minutes from the memorial hall to Shinjuku, then taking the Toei Shinjuku Line directly to Jimbocho Station, arriving in about half an hour.

Once out of Jimbocho, let's start exploring from the station. The most famous place is not Uchiyama Bookstore, but this Yaguchi Bookstore. It's become a popular photo spot because it's very photogenic. I couldn't resist taking a picture too.

Yaguchi Bookstore mainly sells comedy and art books, but that's not my focus today. I want to visit three other bookstores: Uchiyama Bookstore, Oriental Bookstore, and Tokyo-do Bookstore. These three are less than ten meters apart, forming a triangle that you can find on Google Maps.

Uchiyama Bookstore was founded by Mr. Uchiyama, a good friend of Lu Xun. It is said that the bookstore was first established in Shanghai and later moved to Tokyo. Inside, you can not only buy Chinese newspapers but also see a photo of Lu Xun wearing his iconic cardigan together with Mr. Uchiyama. This bookstore has many Chinese authors' works translated into Japanese, such as Liu Cixin's "Three-Body Problem" and similar books, showing that Japanese people are also very interested in Chinese science fiction.

Tokyo-do Bookstore has an even longer history. It stood here a hundred years ago and was a frequent haunt for Chinese students of that time. Our predecessors stood and read magazines and books in this bookstore. Because their financial situation was poor, they brought notebooks to read and copy. It was also here that they learned about the outbreak of the Russian October Revolution, which inspired their revolutionary thoughts.

After visiting the bookstores, I wanted to go to an even more niche attraction.

Look, this monument is truly meaningful. It is said that when it was moved away due to park renovations, nearby residents called to ask why this symbol of friendship was removed. Now it has been placed intact in this park again. This used to be the East Asia Advanced Preparatory School, where the predecessor came to Japan to learn Japanese and prepare for exams. There, he came into contact with Japanese society together with the principal. Later, the Chiyoda Ward Japan-China Friendship Association established a monument here to commemorate friendly relations between Japan and China.

Jimbocho is a street primarily known for bookstores, but there are not only bookstores here but also universities and, of course, delicious Chinese food. It is said that the earliest gathering of Chinese students made this area the birthplace of Japanese Chinese cuisine.

The most famous place here is Hanyangro. The name indicates: Han represents the Han Chinese, and Yang represents the sun, hoping that the Han people will rise like the sun. In those days, when Sun Yat-sen was in Japan and had a bad stomach, the owner of Hanyangro would cook a bowl of plain congee to soothe his stomach. Later, Sunwen Congee became the store's signature dish. The famous Jiangsu-Zhejiang dish Lion's Head is also sold and has been included in the menu as Hanyangro's recommendation.

But the price is quite expensive. A bowl of plain congee with a few pickled vegetable side dishes costs 1,800 yen, about 90 RMB—too precious for poor folks like me.

So I chose Lanzhou beef noodle soup!

From the very famous brand in Tokyo, Maziku Beef Noodles, costing around 1,400 yen. Although much more expensive than beef noodle soup in China, it's still much more worthwhile than plain congee.

If I were to seriously retrace the path of students from a century ago, I think places worth visiting would definitely include Waseda University and the University of Tokyo. Due to time constraints, I decided to just go to Waseda University.

From Jimbocho Station, I took the Hanzomon Line to Kudanshita, transferred to the Metro line, and arrived at Waseda Station. It's about a five- to six-minute walk from Waseda Station to Waseda University.

But visiting Waseda University actually means going to Okuma Auditorium. Because Waseda doesn't have a main gate as such; it's completely an open campus, blending with the surrounding roads, houses, and living facilities. Thus, Okuma Auditorium has become Waseda's "gate."

The Okuma Auditorium is usually not open except for academic events, opening ceremonies, or graduation ceremonies. For Waseda students, it is a sacred presence.

Okuma Auditorium is 125 meters high, corresponding to Shigenobu Okuma's so-called 125-year lifespan theory. Okuma believed that by maintaining healthy habits, humans could live to 125. Unfortunately, he only lived to 84.

The clock installed in the clock tower was shipped from Baltimore, USA, via the Panama Canal. There are four bells, one large and three small, whose tones are the same as those of the Westminster Clock in London. The bells ring six times a day: at 8:00, 9:00, 12:00, 16:00, 20:00, and 21:00. It is said that these chimes coincide with the university's class start and end times.

My favorite part of Waseda must be the Haruki Murakami Museum.

Kengo Kuma used his understanding of Murakami's novels to construct a tunnel-like shape for the building. Passing through the tunnel, you can see Haruki Murakami's global influence. You can see Murakami's novels published in over 50 languages, listen to recordings of actors and performers reading Murakami's novels, and experience the writing space of such a great author.

In the second-floor audiovisual room, there are 365 jazz records. I thought, if you play one record each day, you could experience a different aspect of Murakami's taste every day of the year. But unfortunately, the museum is closed on Wednesdays.

In a corner next to the Orange Cat Café, there is an illustration of the "Sheep Man," a classic character from Murakami's novels. It was hand-drawn by Murakami himself and includes his signature.

The coffee at Orange Cat Café is also of very high quality.

"Learning is like breathing." This is a thought that Murakami left for the museum. He hopes that the library can break down barriers between schools and national borders, providing a place where everyone can easily breathe while learning. Even if you are not a student at Waseda University, you might still find the joy of learning and writing in Haruki Murakami's museum.

The whole day's travel was so rich and fulfilling, leaving me wanting more, but I'll save that for next time.

Let me summarize today's expenses:

Centennial Overseas Students Memorial Hall ticket: 2,500 yen

Maziku Beef Noodles: 1,400 yen

Orange Cat Café coffee: 400 yen

Shinjuku to Jimbocho train: 220 yen

Jimbocho to Waseda train: 178 yen

Total: 4,698 yen