Two Recommended Parks for Walking in Tokyo: Encounter Japanese Gardens, Tokyo Skytree, and a Hidden Maple Viewing Spot feat. Pingle

Coming to Tokyo and want to find some local walking routes to discover unseen Tokyo scenery? This time we invited Pingle, a popular travel blogger and YouTuber living in Tokyo, to visit two nationally and Tokyo-designated cultural heritage gardens—Mukojima Hyakkaen near Asakusa, where you can see Tokyo Skytree, and the hidden autumn leaves spot, Tonogayato Park, along the JR Chuo Line. We walked, took photos, and joined a special limited-time nighttime event. We share it with you here.

Guest Profile: Pingle, Living in Japan

After studying abroad in Yokohama for 10 months in university, she returned to Taiwan, then later moved to Tokyo for work, where she has lived for over 10 years. She worked at an advertising agency and started a blog sharing her work and life experiences in Japan, as well as travel information. Now an independent media person, she runs her own social media channel "Pingle Living in Japan," sharing Japanese travel and life information through videos, photos, and text, and has published a book "Tokyo Cherry Blossoms Free Travel."

Recommended Local Walk ① Mukojima Hyakkaen: Strolling in a Shitamachi Garden near Tokyo Skytree

Across the Sumida River from Asakusa lies Sumida Ward, one of the centers of prosperous Edo shitamachi culture. Especially the Mukojima area, which since the Edo period was a place for spring cherry blossom viewing, summer Sumida River fireworks, and gardens to visit—said to be a favorite spot for literati and ukiyo-e artists. That "garden" still exists today, designated as a National Site of Scenic Beauty and Historic Site, and one of Tokyo's nine designated cultural heritage gardens: Mukojima Hyakkaen.

Located in an area rich in townspeople culture, Mukojima Hyakkaen differs in style from gardens built by samurai nobles; it is full of the refined taste of the townspeople. It was built during the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804–1830) of the Edo period, when townspeople culture flourished, by antique dealer Sahara Kiku, with support from his literati friends.

Initially, the garden mainly featured 360 plum trees, making it the most famous plum-viewing spot in Edo after Kameido's Umeyashiki, attracting many literati to view flowers and compose poetry, and was called "Shin Umeyashiki" (New Plum House). Later, they collected plants celebrated in classical literature like the Book of Songs and the Manyoshu and planted them in the garden, so flowers bloomed all four seasons, earning the name Hyakkaen (Hundred Flower Garden).

Today, over 200 years later, the old garden retains its elegance, with flowers and pond scenery that have lasted over 200 years: plum, cherry, and wisteria in spring; irises, hydrangeas, and morning glories in summer; bush clover, spider lilies, and maple leaves in autumn; and narcissus, Adonis, and hanging branches in winter. The garden also hosts seasonal events full of elegance, such as the summer "Listening to Insects" event and autumn "Moon Viewing" event.

We visited on the opening day of the summer insect-listening event, so we could experience a truly fun and elegant shitamachi night during the special nighttime opening of Mukojima Hyakkaen. Normally, the garden closes at 5 PM, but during the insect-listening event, it stays open until 9 PM, allowing us to see some special scenery.

Japanese Garden with Tokyo Skytree: A Different Tokyo Scenery

As a garden beloved by Edo shitamachi literati, Mukojima Hyakkaen offers a view of the shitamachi landmark Tokyo Skytree—one of its greatest features. The winding garden paths and small bridges over the pond, set against the towering Tokyo Skytree, create a unique Tokyo scene—a view spanning a century of local scenery.

Besides bridges, pond, and Skytree, we also found a path with silver grass that, with the Skytree in the background, instantly evokes autumn. Wandering through the garden and discovering the poetic scenery of different seasons is one of the pleasures of strolling in Mukojima Hyakkaen.

For example, there is a 30-meter-long bush clover tunnel, a famous feature. Bush clover, written as "萩" in Japanese (note: pronounced like "autumn," not different from "荻"), is the most frequently sung plant in the Manyoshu classic, surpassing cherry and plum blossoms, and is the first of the "Seven Autumn Flowers" of Japan, often used as a metaphor for "the woman in one's heart." Every late September, the arched bamboo trellis in the garden blooms with purple-red and white flowers. Strolling through the path, feeling the elegant charm of the Manyoshu, is a unique experience not to be missed in the townspeople-culture-rich Sumida area.

This year, from September 13 to October 4, the garden will hold a "Bush Clover Festival." Everyone is welcome to enjoy the lovely bush clover flowers and experience the unique Edo autumn joy.

Besides natural scenery, during events, you can see many Japanese-style lanterns and seasonal decorative touches that kept the JAPANKURU team and Pingle exclaiming in delight—every detail lets you feel the charm that attracted literati hundreds of years ago.

More happily, Mukojima Hyakkaen still holds seasonal cultural experience events from time to time, and the summer insect-listening event we experienced is one of them.

Summer Insect-Listening Event Experience

Insect listening is a late-summer seasonal custom passed down from the Edo period. This year (2025), it was held from August 28 to 31, and we caught it. As mentioned, during the event, Hyakkaen extends opening hours until 9 PM and lights Japanese-style lanterns, allowing visitors to stroll in the garden on summer nights, listening to various insect sounds and feeling the changing season from summer to autumn.

Visiting Mukojima Hyakkaen during the insect-listening event, you can also join a limited-number evening "insect release ceremony." Starting at 5 PM, you can pick up a transparent box containing bell crickets raised by the garden, find a suitable spot, and release them back into the garden. Only 30 boxes are available per day, first come first served.

After getting our boxes, we found a quiet bridge and released the crickets onto the low shrubs by the water's edge.

The garden raises the crickets to adults, then releases them to live naturally. As we sent the crickets into their new lives, we wished them health.

Besides the release, during the insect-listening event, there are various insect displays with descriptions and sounds, so visitors can identify different calls while strolling.

At night, the lit lanterns in Mukojima Hyakkaen, paired with the illuminated Tokyo Skytree, create another beautiful Edo nightscape.

During the event, the bush clover tunnel is also lit with lanterns, creating a special summer night cooling atmosphere with the evening breeze. That day, Pingle wore a yukata, adding a sense of time travel in photos.

After tiring from walking, resting under the flower trellis with some food and drink is a unique Tokyo night experience. The event sells beer, amazake, and various flavored shaved ice.

Sitting under the lit trellis eating shaved ice—it's a different feeling from summer fireworks or festivals.

Although this year's summer insect-listening event ended in August, the garden will hold a "Moon Viewing Event" from October 5 to 7, again extending opening until 9 PM. In the Edo period, literati gathered at Mukojima Hyakkaen to enjoy the moon and compose poetry. Today's moon viewing event features a moon viewing altar with garden-grown fruits and vegetables, koto performances from 6 PM, and on specific days, shinobue and shamisen performances and tea ceremonies. Interested parties can check the Tokyo Parks Association official announcement.

Mukojima Hyakkaen Address: 3-18-3 Higashi Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

Opening Hours: 09:00–17:00

* Last entry at 16:30

Closed: Year-end and New Year (Dec 29–Jan 3)

Admission: General 150 yen, 65 and over 70 yen, elementary school children and younger and Tokyo junior high school students free

* Usually free on May 4 (Greenery Day) and October 1 (Tokyo Citizens' Day)

Access: 8 min walk from Higashi Mukojima Station on Tobu Skytree Line; 13 min walk from Keisei Hikifune Station on Keisei Oshiage Line; 2–3 min walk from "Hyakkaen-mae" bus stop on Toei Bus (Kameido–Nippori Route #Ri 22)

Nearby Recommendation: Chomeiji Temple and Sakura Mochi

About a 10-minute walk from Mukojima Hyakkaen, you can reach Chomeiji Temple, a historic Buddhist temple. This Tendai sect temple, full name "Hojuzan Henjo-in Chomeiji," is said to have been built in 1615 during the Edo period, originally called "Hojuzan Jousenji." Later, the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, suffered stomach pain while falcon hunting here and relief came from drinking the temple's well water "Chomeisui," so the temple was renamed Chomeiji.

Today, you can still see the monument to the longevity water and the restored well, and behind the temple are many stone monuments of literati, such as a mirror poem monument by Jippensha Ikku and a haiku monument by Matsuo Basho. Notably, Chomeiji and Mukojima Hyakkaen were both popular stops on the Edo-period "Sumida River Seven Lucky Gods Pilgrimage," and it remains a popular New Year's prayer destination for locals.

Chomeiji Address: 5-4-4 Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

Office Hours: 10:00–15:00

* General worship has no time limit.

* May change due to seasons or events; it's best to go early.

Access: 10 min walk from Hikifune Station on Tobu Skytree Line; 15 min walk from A3 exit of Oshiage Station on Toei Asakusa, Hanzomon, Tobu Skytree, and Keisei Oshiage lines.

Speaking of Chomeiji, you can't miss the 300-year-old famous confection "Chomeiji Sakura Mochi" sold next to it.

It originated in 1717 during the Edo period. The founder, Yamamoto Shinroku, pickled cherry blossom leaves from the Sumida River embankment and invented "sakura mochi," selling it in front of Chomeiji Temple. At that time, the Sumida embankment (now called "Bokutei") became a popular cherry blossom spot, attracting many visitors. Sakura mochi grew in popularity and spread throughout Japan, becoming a classic wagashi.

Chomeiji's sakura mochi uses thin crepe-like dough made from wheat flour or shiratamako, filled with fine red bean paste, wrapped in a large salt-pickled cherry leaf. It has a light fragrance and simple texture, with just the right sweetness. Still very popular, it's a must-try snack or souvenir when visiting the Sumida area.

Chomeiji Sakura Mochi (Yamamoto-ya) Address: 5-1-14 Mukojima, Sumida-ku, Tokyo

Business Hours: 8:30–18:00 (New Year's Day: 10:00–17:00)

Closed: Monday and Tuesday (check official website for updates)

Access: 9 min walk from Hikifune Station on Tobu Isesaki Line; 15 min walk from Oshiage Station on Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line, Tobu Skytree Line, etc.

Nearby Recommendation: Sumida Embankment and Sumida Embankment Cherry Blossom Festival

As mentioned earlier, the Sumida embankment on the left bank of the Sumida River—now called "Bokutei"—was a popular cherry blossom spot in the Edo period. It is said that the fourth Tokugawa shogun, Ietsuna, began planting cherry trees there, and later the eighth shogun, Yoshimune, personally planted many Somei Yoshino cherry trees. In total, about 343 cherry trees line the one-kilometer stretch from Azumabashi to Sakurabashi.

Today, the Bokutei cherry blossoms are still a spring tradition in Tokyo. With the endorsement of Edo-era literati, the cherry blossoms have an added elegance. At night, the cherry blossom path is illuminated, making it a good choice for night cherry blossom viewing.

Even outside of spring, a walk along the Sumida embankment is very pleasant. The Sumida and Arakawa rivers are the pulse of Tokyo's shitamachi area, and the Sumida River is an essential part of Edo commoners' lives, past and present.

Watching joggers go by, teenagers practicing skateboarding under the elevated bridge, housewives cycling past... these are everyday Tokyo scenes, a different atmosphere from tourist spots and business districts.

Recommended Local Walk ② Tonogayato Garden: A Hidden Autumn Leaves Spot in Kokubunji

After exploring Mukojima Hyakkaen near Asakusa and Tokyo Skytree, we head to Kokubunji in western Tokyo to visit another exquisite Japanese garden just a 2-minute walk from Kokubunji Station—Tonogayato Garden.

This western part of Tokyo is called the Tama area, away from the city center, a great place to spend time in nature. There are attractive spots like Jindai Botanical Garden and Tama Zoological Park. Let's take a stroll through Tonogayato Garden.

Tonogayato Garden was originally built during the Taisho era (1913–1915) as a villa garden for the vice president of the South Manchuria Railway and House of Councillors member, Eguchi Teijo, and was called "Zuien" (Garden of Following One's Pleasure). Later, in 1929, Iwasaki Hikota of the Mitsubishi zaibatsu purchased it, renovated the wooden main building combining Japanese and Western styles, built a tea house called "Koyo-tei" (Maple Pavilion), and gradually developed it into a strolling-style pond garden blending classical Japanese beauty with Western influences.

A major feature of Tonogayato Garden is that it utilizes the local terrace cliff topography (Kokubunji Cliff Line), incorporating the height difference and spring water seeping from the gravel layer at the base, along with dense and varied tree vegetation, to create a villa garden.

Near the garden entrance, the higher terrace features a wide lawn, while the slope on the cliff line is planted with red pines, maple trees, bamboo, and sasa bamboo, creating layered depth and a sense of spaciousness.

The villa later built by Iwasaki Hikota is a typical Japanese-style Western house. Although the exterior looks Western, it incorporates Japanese elements like lattice windows. Inside, it retains a Taisho-Showa era architectural style.

One of the highlights of Tonogayato Garden is the tea house "Koyo-tei" on the terrace beside Jiro Benten Pond. Named Koyo-tei (Maple Pavilion), it is surrounded by many maple trees—green and cool in summer, blazing red in autumn.

From inside the tea house, the garden view looks like a painting—the antique oil-paper sliding doors and the outdoor pavilion create an exquisite frame enclosing the garden's beauty. However, the tea house interior is not open to the public year-round; it is usually a meeting venue requiring advance reservation, often used for tea ceremonies and haiku gatherings. But the semi-outdoor pavilion outside Koyo-tei is freely accessible and a popular resting spot.

Located on the terrace next to the lower Jiro Benten Pond, Koyo-tei is an excellent vantage point for garden views. Nearby, you can hear the "shishi-odoshi" (deer scare device) often featured in anime and dramas—the rhythmic knocking sound instantly evokes Japanese atmosphere.

Passing Koyo-tei and descending from the terrace, you encounter another highlight: Jiro Benten Pond. This pond is characteristic of Tonogayato Garden, created by the local river terrace topography. River terraces are stepped landforms along river valleys, where underground water is shallow, often resulting in springs at the cliff base. Tonogayato Garden lies within this spring zone, allowing the creation of the beautiful Jiro Benten Pond using the spring water.

Compared to other Japanese gardens in Tokyo, Jiro Benten Pond feels more "alive," with not only serene pond scenery but also a small stream flowing down from the terrace, adding movement to the landscape.

Crossing Jiro Benten Pond and climbing a short staircase reveals another scene: a bamboo grove of towering Moso bamboo. The rustling and creaking of bamboo in the wind bring a sense of tranquility from a distant era. This bamboo path is rare in Tokyo gardens. Along one side are many Japanese maples, which must present a different charm in deep autumn.

Frankly, it's also a wonderful place to stroll in yukata. Seeing Pingle walking in yukata truly evokes a feeling of stepping back in time.

Earlier, when introducing Mukojima Hyakkaen, we mentioned the famous "bush clover tunnel." Tonogayato Garden also has a bush clover tunnel. From mid-September onward, pink flowers bloom, coloring the tunnel in lovely pink tones.

When we visited in August, we didn't see the full bloom, but we did spot some early flowers.

Tonogayato Garden Address: 2-16 Minami-cho, Kokubunji-shi, Tokyo

Opening Hours: 09:00–17:00

* Last entry at 16:30 (may be extended during events)

Closed: Year-end and New Year (Dec 29–Jan 1)

Admission: General 150 yen, 65 and over 70 yen, elementary school children and younger and Tokyo junior high school students free

* Usually free on May 4 (Greenery Day) and October 1 (Tokyo Citizens' Day)

Public Transport: 2 min walk from the south exit of Kokubunji Station on JR Chuo Line, Seibu Kokubunji Line, and Seibu Tamako Line.

Nearby Recommendation: Otanomichi and Masugata Spring Group

Leaving Tonogayato Garden and walking southwest for about 15–20 minutes, you reach a popular walking route and spot near Kokubunji Station—Otanomichi.

In the Edo period, the Kokubunji area was designated as the Owari Tokugawa family's falconry grounds. Today, the path along the clear spring water flowing into the Nogawa River is named Otanomichi, a 350-meter walking path.

Otanomichi has different charms each season, loved by locals and visitors. Especially from spring to early summer, calla lilies bloom along the path, complementing the quiet streetscape, making it one of Kokubunji's most representative scenic spots.

As mentioned in the introduction to Tonogayato Garden, due to the terrace cliff topography, many underground springs emerge here. The most representative is the spring group at the base of the cliff, centered on "Masugata no Ike" (Masugata Pond). Walking along Otanomichi, you reach "Otanomichi and Masugata Spring Group," which was selected by the Ministry of the Environment as one of "Japan's Top 100 Famous Waters" and also one of "Tokyo's Top 57 Famous Springs."

The water at Masugata Spring Group is very clear. On the hot afternoon we visited, we saw mothers with children wading in the pool to cool off. The area around Masugata Spring Group is very quiet, like a small forest hidden in a residential area.

Otanomichi & Masugata Spring Group Address: 3-chome Higashi Motomachi & 1-chome Nishimotomachi, Kokubunji-shi, Tokyo

Access: 15 min walk from south exit of Kokubunji Station on JR Chuo, Seibu Kokubunji, and Tamako lines; 12 min walk from south exit of Nishi-Kokubunji Station on JR Chuo and Musashino lines.

Along the way from Otanomichi to Masugata Spring Group, you pass various houses and a lush bamboo grove. Including scenes like a walking path beside a small ditch between houses, with small bridges leading to other alleys.

Interestingly, on the way from Kokubunji Station to Otanomichi and Masugata Spring Group, you can see three-dimensional, colorful woodblock carvings, adding fun to the walk. Although the area mostly consists of residential neighborhoods, it hides some unique small coffee shops and dessert shops waiting for walkers to discover.

If you like exploring Japanese history, the Kokubunji area is worth visiting. During the Nara period, Emperor Shomu ordered the construction of provincial temples (Kokubunji and Kokubun-niji) across Japan for state protection. The temple for Musashi Province—the largest province covering present-day Tokyo, Saitama, and part of Kanagawa—was built here. Although the temples were destroyed over centuries by war and disasters, many ruins remain.

Strolling Through Tokyo Gardens: Experiencing Japanese Elegance

During this tour with Pingle visiting two distinctive gardens in Tokyo, her most frequent exclamation was "It's so elegant!" From the regularly changed seasonal potted plants at the entrance of Tonogayato Garden and the free paper umbrella lending service for hot summer days, to the delicate painted lanterns and seasonal decorations at Mukojima Hyakkaen—all these small details let us feel the Japanese cultural sensitivity to the changing seasons.

We realized that what is called "elegance" does not only exist in ancient poetry but can still be felt through our careful perception today. For more great spots for park walks in Tokyo, check the Tokyo Parks Association official website!