Iceland & Vienna | At the End of the World, Meeting the Eternal Self
It is said that Iceland is the place on Earth most like the Moon. If you can't go to the Moon, then go to Iceland. That distant and mysterious land has made me sketch its image in my mind countless times, thinking that one day I would definitely get there. And fate is always so magical; the opportunity came, so here I am.
Time: 2025.6.20-6.29 (9 days total, 3 days on the plane, 6 days in Iceland + half a day in Vienna)
Cost: About 35,000 yuan per person (departing from Shanghai)
Transportation: Plane (Shanghai to Vienna, Vienna to Iceland, flight time 18 hours), Iceland bus
Mode: Group tour, 20 people
The first day was spent entirely on the plane. We flew with Austrian Airlines the whole way, so our luggage went directly to Iceland without needing to collect it during the transfer. The airline's service and quality were similar to domestic airlines in China. The first flight from Shanghai to Vienna took nearly 13 hours, with 6 meal services (2 main meals + 2 snacks + 2 drinks (water, coffee, juice, tea, etc.)). However, there was no hot water, only slightly cold bottled water. If you really need hot water, you can ask the flight attendants separately.
Along the way, due to the time difference, the time kept changing. Every time we arrived at a new place, it was a new time. So you might feel that it's 2 o'clock, but a few hours later it's still 2 o'clock. However, the screen on the back of the seat shows the time and flight progress.
The layover in Vienna was six hours, and we also had to go through customs. We could stroll around the airport and charge our devices (most plugs didn't work, for some reason).
The second flight was from Vienna to Iceland, four and a half hours, around midnight, so no meal was served. There was a drink service (some paid, some free, served separately; for paid drinks, there was a menu on the seat to choose from).
We arrived in Iceland at 11 p.m. local time (8 hours behind China). I was a bit excited. It was raining at the time, and the sky looked like it was about to get dark in the evening. After all, it was summer with the midnight sun, never fully dark. On the way to the hotel in Reykjavik (abbreviated as "Reykjavik"), the roadsides were full of purple lupines. I thought to myself that this journey was finally about to begin.
Weather is very important for traveling in Iceland. June is a good season. We experienced cloudy, rainy, and sunny days.
Ytri-Tunga Farm
Also known as Seal Beach, it's a gathering place for seals. Not recommended; you can't see many seals, and it's no different from an ordinary seaside.
Búðakirkja Black Church
A very artistic place. The black church stands silently on the grassland, surrounded by vast tundra and mountains. They are punctuation marks on the earth, reminding travelers that even in the most barren corner, humans still need rituals to fight against nothingness. The summer breeze is very pleasant; you can also take a walk on the nearby Búðir Beach, very relaxing. Actually, on the other side of the church is a tomb, which Icelanders consider sacred. The church's history dates back to the 19th century.
Grundarfjörður - Kirkjufell Mountain
Kirkjufell, also known as Church Mountain, Hat Mountain, or Arrow Mountain, is a filming location for "Game of Thrones." It lies on the northern shore of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland, serene and beautiful.
Stykkishólmur - The Town of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty
Known as the "Greenland town" in "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty," it features colorful Nordic-style houses, a very quiet community with few people.
We found a house with various colorful flowers and plants in front, which surprisingly looked like New Zealand.
Near our hotel, there was an extinct volcano. The whole mountain was black, with some tundra growing on the surface. This attraction was also developed, so there is a boardwalk to the top. It was my first time climbing a volcano, and it felt very special, especially since tundra is one of Iceland's unique features.
Þingvellir National Park
It felt nice, but very crowded. Located in the rift valley at the boundary between the Eurasian and North American plates, it features black volcanic rock canyon landscapes. It is also the site of the oldest existing parliament and church ruins.
Gullfoss Waterfall
Iceland's largest canyon waterfall, very spectacular.
Geysir
There are many hot springs here, 80-100°C. The most famous geyser erupts about every five minutes.
You can also hike. In June, the mountains are covered with lupines.
The rain came and went. By the time we descended the mountain, it cleared up. Near the geyser area (about one kilometer away) by the roadside, we saw a spring that looked quite beautiful.
Kerið Crater Lake
This attraction costs 400 ISK (Icelandic krona). Overall felt average. Located in western Iceland, it formed about 6,500 years ago, with a depth of 7 to 14 meters. Minerals make the lake surface colorful and change with the light. There was a flower resembling ice grass on one side that looked nice.
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall
This is the only waterfall in Iceland where you get wet because you have to walk behind it. With the mist and wind, wow, you will definitely get wet. From a distance, the waterfall looks small, but it's spectacular when you go inside. So be sure to bring a raincoat, or waterproof clothing/shoes/phone case. Enter from the right side and exit from the left. The left side has a strong flow, like taking a shower.
On a vast empty black sandy ground stands a plane wreck. It wasn't as striking as the online photos, and the colors weren't as dark either. The story behind the plane: In 1973, a US Navy Douglas DC-3 plane crash-landed on Iceland's black sand beach. All crew members survived. Later, the US military removed all usable equipment, leaving the fuselage frame in place.
From the entrance to the plane, you need to walk for some time. Foreigners mostly walk, while Chinese people mostly take a bus. There is a special shuttle bus, quite cool. The driver even greeted us in Chinese: "Ni men hao"~
Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach with Basalt Columns
Located at the southernmost tip of Iceland, on the west coast of the North Atlantic, also known as Vík Black Sand Beach because it is close to Vík. It is also one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world.
On the black sand beach, there is a wall of basalt rocks arranged in prismatic columns. These columns formed when volcanic lava cooled evenly, creating straight, sharp-edged columnar rock formations. Visually, they resemble the organ pipes of a traditional church, hence the name "organ rock."
On the other side of the sea, there is a mountain that is also characteristic of Iceland, similar to the Westman Islands, and also with a hint of the Faroe Islands.
You can overlook Vík town, with the mountain in the distance being the black sand beach. In June, lupines are in full bloom, making this view particularly beautiful. That red house looks like an eye chart, but it's on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, not the same one.
This is my favorite waterfall. There is a staircase on the right side of the mountain leading to the top, where there is a hiking trail. Overcast, slightly cool, listening to the sound of water, walking on the open mountain top, very, very comfortable. Highly recommended to go up! This waterfall can only be admired from a distance, not approached, so you won't get wet.
This is Iceland's unique tundra, covering one-tenth of the country's area, and can be seen along both sides of many roads. This area originated from the Eldhraun lava field, formed by a massive volcanic eruption hundreds of years ago, covering an area of 565 square kilometers. Pale green moss covers the lava, with black and green contrasting. It's very soft. In winter, the moss-covered ground looks like marshmallows under snow.
Formed during the Ice Age 9,000 years ago by glacial meltwater and river erosion, it is also a nice route for a slow walk.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
The blue of the glacier lagoon instantly hits your eyes. Those icebergs, like giant blue crystals carved by nature, float quietly on the lake, emitting a cold and mysterious light. Standing on the shore, looking at them, I suddenly felt how small humans are, but also incredibly lucky to witness such magnificence.
The icebergs on the lake were not very large; perhaps because it was summer, there weren't many. The temperature here was very low and very cold, so be sure to dress warmly (a fleece-lined jacket is enough in summer). You can take a boat tour on the glacier lagoon, even an amphibious vehicle, weaving through layers of icebergs, feeling like you're in Antarctica.
Finally, I arrived at the long-awaited beach. I initially thought Diamond Beach and Black Sand Beach were the same, but they are not. Diamond Beach is very close to the glacier lagoon. Various pieces of ice are washed up on the black sand, looking like diamonds and crystals. These are pieces of ice from melting glaciers and accumulated in the glacial lake.
Vatnajökull Glacier Hiking
Vatnajökull Glacier is near the town of Höfn in southeastern Iceland, covering an area of 8,300 square kilometers. It is not only Iceland's largest glacier but also Europe's largest ice cap, ranking fifth in the world (after the Antarctic ice sheet, Greenland and Arctic islands ice caps, North American Alaska and Yukon ice cap, and South American Patagonian ice cap). It is about 1,500 meters above sea level. Its constant motion is a typical feature of Iceland's landscape. Vatnajökull moves at a rate of 800 meters per year into warmer valleys. Interestingly, there are also lava fields, volcanic craters, and hot lakes within the Vatnajökull area, earning Iceland the name "Land of Fire and Ice."
Before going to the glacier, you need to change into high-top boots at the visitor center, also pick up crampons, safety straps, and a helmet. Then we took a bus to the destination together. The route was divided into two parts. The first part involved walking some mountain paths; it really felt like being on Mars.
The second part, just in front of the glacier, we put on crampons and started hiking on the glacier. The whole hike lasted about 3 hours, with the first part taking half the time. The route to the Blue Ice Cave is the same, but unfortunately, it's not accessible in summer because the ice cave melts and becomes dangerous. To visit the Blue Ice Cave, you must go in winter (October-April), and it requires a 6-hour hike.
As Europe's largest glacier, the landscape here is very unique, with green mountains, glaciers, and volcanic rock without vegetation coexisting.
Gunnuhver Hot Springs
A geothermal area with dense, misty steam constantly erupting. Unlike other hot springs in Iceland, its water source is entirely seawater. The surrounding rocks are also striking, with bright orange colors and blue hues from minerals. Legend has it that this hot spring is named after the witch "Gudrun" in Norse mythology.
Also known as the Eurasian Bridge. Leif Erikson was a European explorer who discovered North America nearly 500 years before Columbus. The bridge is located on the Reykjanes Peninsula, spanning the Ölfusá Gorge at the boundary between the Eurasian and North American plates. Here, you can experience the strange feeling of having one foot in Europe and the other in North America.
The first time I saw pictures of the blue hot spring online, I found it magical. At that time, I never thought I would come one day, until I actually did. It is said that there is a volcano nearby; every time a volcano erupts, the hot spring closes. The surrounding roads have been rebuilt several times, so it's quite rare.
Before soaking, you need to get a wristband and change into a swimsuit. You can rinse off first before entering. The towel is obtained from the staff after you finish soaking.
Even in summer, with temperatures only a few degrees Celsius, it's still very cold when soaking in the hot spring. But the moment you immerse your whole body, the cold wind suddenly becomes gentle. The hot spring water steams (your glasses will fog up). At that moment, all fatigue evaporates into the mist. Different areas of the hot spring have different water depths; some only reach your waist or chest, while the deepest parts submerge your neck.
What's different about the milky blue water compared to ordinary hot springs? In terms of feeling, there's no difference, but this is a natural geothermal hot spring formed partly by volcanic lava, with water temperature around 37-39°C. The lake water is rich in minerals like silica and sulfur, constantly emitting steam. It is beneficial for both physical and mental health, and the water tastes salty.
While soaking, don't forget to get the free white face mask (on the left side of the hot spring) and drinks (on the right side of the hot spring). You can enjoy them while soaking.
There is no time limit for soaking; you can stay as long as you like. After you come out, you can go to the shower area to wash up (various toiletries are provided). After getting dressed, you can dry your hair. One reminder: there are no slippers there, so you can bring your own, as the floor is very cold.
Departing from Reykjavik's old harbor, we headed to the Faxaflói Bay fishing area, which is also part of the North Atlantic. Before going, I read online that many people get seasick, so I was very afraid. But in the end, I was fine the whole time. The boat has two decks: the upper deck is open-air, and the lower deck is indoor. Once the boat started moving, being on the upper deck prevented seasickness. However, the wind on the upper deck was very strong, especially at the bow (impossible to go there).
When the boat reached the fishing area, it stopped for everyone to fish. Maybe we were lucky; our group caught many fish. The crew grilled the fish on the spot for BBQ.
Fresh and delicious cod BBQ was served, very tasty, even better with potatoes.
On the way back, the sun came out.
Iceland's summer weather was not bad. We encountered both cloudy and sunny days. The weather in Iceland can change in minutes, as can the temperature. So one moment you might wear a fleece-lined jacket, the next a single layer, alternating between hot and cold.
The core area of Reykjavik is small, with commercial areas concentrated together. It consists of colorful Nordic-style houses. I noticed they seemed to be made of corrugated iron, a bit like shipping containers in China, but painted with colorful coatings.
Apart from the main commercial street, the other sides are residential areas. The commercial street is crowded, while the residential areas are quiet. I really enjoyed walking through them.
At the highest point is Hallgrímskirkja. From the top of the church, you can overlook the entire city (going up to the top floor costs 1,400 ISK, about 82 RMB).
This is the neighborhood near Tjörnin Lake.
Tjörnin Lake is also where Reykjavik City Hall is located.
June in Iceland is a dream woven by the midnight sun. Standing on this island carved by wind and fire, I finally understood what it means to be "the original form of the Earth" — time here is frozen, it flows, it is a primitive poem woven from the sighs of glaciers and the growls of volcanoes.
As the plane broke through the clouds, I saw Iceland gradually shrink to a point on the map, but I suddenly understood: some journeys are not for seeing the world, but for seeing yourself within the world.
At 6:30 a.m., we took a flight to Vienna for a half-day quick tour. Since it was too early, many attractions were not open yet; we could only look from the outside and didn't have time to go inside. Maybe next time I come again, I can sit down for a cup of coffee, listen to a concert...
Vienna is the capital of Austria, located in the northeastern part of Austria at the foot of the Alps, on the southern bank of the Danube River, with a mild climate. It is one of the most livable cities in the world, a city of diverse culture and arts, and the world's music capital. It encapsulates art from ancient Greek and Roman times onwards, nurturing famous musicians such as Schubert, Haydn, Mozart, and Beethoven.
It was also the capital of several dynasties. In 1137, it became the capital of the Duchy of Austria. After the 15th century, it became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and Europe's economic center. In 1867, it became the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Vienna remained Europe's cultural and imperial political center. In 2020, Vienna became the fifth largest city in the European Union. The official language is German.
Vienna is also Austria's most important center for manufacturing, banking, and insurance. Main industries include food, electronic equipment, chemicals, etc.
Vienna City Park
Vienna Musikverein Golden Hall
An Italian Renaissance-style building, it is Vienna's oldest and most modern concert hall, one of Vienna's and the world's most famous concert halls. It has 1,744 seats and 300 standing places.
Kunsthistorisches Museum - Maria-Theresien-Platz
The Kunsthistorisches Museum is the fourth largest art museum in the world, with 8 branches. It stands opposite the Hofburg Palace, funded by the Habsburg family, who ruled Europe for nearly seven centuries. It houses European treasures collected by the Habsburg dynasty over centuries, including works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Dürer, Raphael, Titian, and other famous painters.
Maria Theresa, Archduchess of Austria of the Habsburg dynasty (reigned 20 October 1740 – 29 November 1780), Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, and sovereign of Croatia, Transylvania, Mantua, Milan, Galicia and Lodomeria, the Austrian Netherlands, and Parma. Daughter of Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI, wife of Holy Roman Emperor Francis I. Maria Theresa was the only female ruler in Habsburg history. She laid the foundation for the transformation of the Archduchy of Austria into the modern state of the Austrian Empire.
Theresa's eldest son became Holy Roman Emperor (Joseph II) after Francis I died. Her many daughters provided rich resources for political marriages; she married them off across Europe, earning the title "Mother-in-law of Europe."
Austrian Parliament Building
A Greek Revival building located in Vienna's Innere Stadt. Designed by Danish architect Baron Theophil von Hansen, it adopts an ancient Greek temple style, with Corinthian colonnades and triangular pediment carvings showing the historical origins of democratic governance. In front of the building stands a towering statue of Athena, holding a scepter and a statue of Victory; the base features four river gods representing the four major rivers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Located outside the Hofburg Palace in central Vienna, the square was built during the reign of Franz Joseph I. It is famous for two bronze statues of military leaders: on the east side is an equestrian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy, who defeated the Turkish army in the 17th century; on the west side is a statue of Archduke Charles, a famous commander during the Napoleonic Wars. In 1938, Hitler announced the Anschluss of Austria and Germany here, making this square a witness to a major historical event of the 20th century. Currently, the square is surrounded by political buildings such as the Presidential Palace and the Parliament Building, and it connects the Hofburg Palace and the museum quarter.
Franz II Square
In the square stands a statue of Emperor Franz II. This Franz II of the Holy Roman Empire dissolved the empire in 1806 to thwart Napoleon's ambition to become Holy Roman Emperor, and simultaneously established the Austrian Empire. Franz II thus became Emperor Franz I of Austria.
Hofburg Palace in German means "Court Castle." It is the palace of the Austrian Habsburg dynasty, located in the heart of Vienna. It was once the winter residence of the Habsburg Austro-Hungarian emperor (the summer residence is Schönbrunn Palace). It now serves as the presidential residence.
Whether it's Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, or the late 19th-century Classical Revival style, the Hofburg Palace brings them all together. The palace covers an area of 240,000 square meters, with 18 buildings, 54 exits, 19 courtyards, and 2,900 rooms, earning it the nickname "city within a city." It is divided into an upper and lower section, each with a garden. The upper section was used for imperial business, receptions, and grand events; the lower section was for living and lodging.
At Michaelerplatz in the Hofburg, you can also take a horse-drawn carriage, about 60 euros for half an hour.
St. Michael's Church
There is also a church at Michaelerplatz. St. Michael's Church is one of the oldest Catholic churches in Vienna, with its history dating back to 1217. The existing structure is mainly Neoclassical, while retaining Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements, making it a typical example of Vienna's architectural evolution.
Walking out of the Hofburg, opposite is the city's commercial center. There is a century-old dessert shop/café. You can't take coffee to go; you have to sit down to drink.
Plague Column (Pestsäule)
Also known as the Black Death column, it stands in the middle of the Graben in Vienna, a gilded column topped with a crown. It is said that during the plague epidemic of 1679, which killed nearly two-thirds of Vienna's population, even Emperor Leopold I was helpless. After the plague, the emperor ordered the construction of this column in memory of the victims.
Further ahead is St. Stephen's Cathedral
It stands in the center of Vienna, thus known as the "Heart of Vienna." The cathedral's tower is 136.7 meters high, making it the third tallest church in the world after Cologne Cathedral and Ulm Minster. It is one of the most famous Gothic churches in the world.
The cathedral's greatest feature is its blend of various European classical styles. Construction began in the 12th century in Romanesque style, later two towers were added: the south tower is a pointed Gothic style, and the north tower is Renaissance. Over four centuries of continuous modifications, renovations, and expansions, it became a unique mixed-style building in the world.
You can climb to the top of the roof to overlook the entire city (no elevator), costing 5 euros.
That half-day in Vienna felt like enchanted golden strings—I brushed past the Baroque carvings of the Hofburg, barely glimpsed the dome of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, exchanged a glance with Haydn's statue by the fountain in Volksgarten, watched the marble columns of the Parliament Building shimmer like honey in the sunset, and gazed at the Golden Hall where I couldn't enter to hear the musical legends... In the brief gaps, I also felt Vienna's romance.
The return flight was shorter than before, about ten hours to Shanghai. After arriving in Shanghai, remember to go through customs and get your passport stamped (group tours need visa cancellation). The equipment is advanced now; you go through the machine and then someone at the exit stamps the passport, quite efficient. But we waited an hour for luggage. This trip was safe; you can check your luggage normally, no one will touch it. However, in some other European countries, you need to be careful.
Travel Notes Directory:
1. DAY1: Shanghai to Iceland
2. DAY2: Seeking the Shape of Faith in Solitude – Snæfellsnes Peninsula (Seal Beach, Black Church, Kirkjufell, The Town of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty)
3. DAY3: Touching Time in the Plates of History – Golden Circle (Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss, Geysir)
4. DAY4: Seeing Your Own Shadow at the End of the World – Kerið Crater Lake, Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Plane Wreck, Black Sand Beach
5. DAY5: A Song of Ice and Fire – Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Vatnajökull Glacier, Eldhraun Lava Field, Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
6. DAY6: Reconcile with the World in the Milky Blue Embrace – Blue Lagoon, Gunnuhver Hot Springs, Leif's Lucky Bridge
7. DAY7: Sea Fishing + BBQ, Reykjavik
8. DAY8: Vienna
9. DAY8-9: Vienna to Shanghai
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