Li Yan: Watching the Shengfang Flower Festivals on the 15th of the First Lunar Month
Shengfang Town in Langfang, Hebei, was first built over 2,400 years ago at the end of the Spring and Autumn period, developing from an ancient small fishing village. After the large-scale migration in the early Ming Dynasty, the population of Shengfang surged, and soon merchants gathered, shops lined the streets, rapidly turning it into a commercial and cultural hub in North China. It had already become very prosperous by the early Qing Dynasty, wealthy enough to be compared with the saying, "In the south there are Suzhou and Hangzhou, in the north there is Shengfang."
Historically, Shengfang Town was known for "twenty-eight temples and seventy-two flower festivals." Traditionally, the Shengfang Flower Festivals are held from the 12th to the 16th day of the first lunar month each year. Passed down from generation to generation since the Ming and Qing dynasties, they have never ceased. There are currently 28 remaining flower festival troupes, all spontaneously organized by the people. The scale is immense, the participation broad, and the scene bustling, which is rare among towns and villages nationwide.
Seeing it in person was truly stunning, and what shocked me even more was that such a large-scale event was entirely organized by various flower festival troupes, without government involvement or police maintaining order. Despite the surging crowds, everything was orderly.
Text and photos by Li Yan, taken on the 15th and 16th of the first lunar month in 2011.
When Emperor Qianlong inspected the water conditions and passed through Shengfang, he personally inscribed the words "Victory Water Lotus Fragrance, Enduring for Ten Thousand Generations," which has become a celebrated tale among the local people.
Shengfang has three treasures: the Theater Tower, the Memorial Archway, and the Wenchang Pavilion. The Shengfang Theater Tower, also known as the "Jiucheng Tower," was built around the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty and renovated during the Xianfeng reign. It faces south and sits north, presenting a grand and magnificent appearance.
Shengfang is located east of Baiyangdian Lake and is rich in reeds. The reed trade is called the "grass trade," and the most feared thing in this trade is fire.
In old times, Shengfang people believed that a fire meant the arrival of the Fire God. They came up with the idea of parading the deity through the streets during the flower festivals to honor the Fire God. During the Ming and Qing periods, seventy-two flower festivals centered on worshiping the Fire God gradually formed in Shengfang.
Every Lantern Festival, the Shengfang Folk Arts Association organizes these flower festival troupes to participate in the deity-entertaining activity—known as "Bai Hui" (the arrangement of festivals).
According to local folklore scholars, the patterns of scorpions and frogs (toads) painted on faces belong to the five venomous creatures, implying warding off evil and disasters.
Children with painted scorpions and frogs (toads) on their faces can be seen everywhere.
Before noon, the Fire God is brought out from the temple and offered incense. Some elderly women invite incense sticks, bow and pray for a year of favorable weather and great fortune.
Taoist nuns play instruments and chant scriptures. As the parade begins, various troupes arrive one after another to report, set off firecrackers, and worship the Fire God.
With three iron cannon blasts from the cannon troupe, over thirty Shengfang flower festival troupes begin their procession.
The leaders of each troupe go to the association to submit their registration cards.
Once the parade starts, each troupe comes to pay respects to the Fire God. The not-so-wide Yuhuang Temple Street alley is packed tightly with troupes and spectators, leaving no room to stand.
At half past twelve noon, with three iron cannon shots from the cannon troupe, over thirty Shengfang flower festival troupes begin their parade. Nearly a thousand performers, dressed in traditional costumes, set out from the temple head of the ancient town of Shengfang, stretching for several miles with banners fluttering. Wherever they passed, drums and gongs roared, creating a lively atmosphere. Out in procession: Shaolin martial arts troupe.
Out in procession: Zhongfan (flagpole) troupe.
Out in procession: Baoying (baby protection) troupe.
Walking procession: Xiaoche (small cart) troupe.
National-level intangible cultural heritage: Southern music troupe.
Whenever they reached a wide open space, the troupes began performing, with various acts taking turns on stage. Shaolin martial arts troupe.
Street performance: Stilt walkers.
Street performance: Stilt walkers.
Folk customs need children to participate in order to be passed down.
Tired, they lean against an electric pole to rest for a while.
On the ground, on carts, and on rooftops, all are crowded with people watching the festivities.
The Shengfang Lantern Festival Flower Festival parade runs from the 12th to the 16th of the first lunar month, lasting five days, with a different route each day.
According to a town official, the local villagers are relatively well-off and do not rely on tourism for a living. It is purely for self-entertainment.
Author: Li Yan, Jinmen Net
