2016 8-Day Group Tour to Colorful Yunnan (Kunming + Dali + Lijiang + Shangri-La + Xishuangbanna)
About the 5-flight, 8-day group tour covering Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Xishuangbanna in Yunnan
1. Tour fee: 3080 yuan per person, itinerary includes shopping stops and optional self-funded items;
2. Itinerary: (copied from travel agency’s tour schedule)
Day 1: Beijing – Kunming
Day 2: Kunming – Chuxiong
Day 3: Chuxiong – Dali – Heqing
Day 4: Heqing – Lijiang
Day 5: Lijiang – Shangri-La
Day 6: Shangri-La – Kunming – Xishuangbanna
Day 7: Xishuangbanna – Kunming
Day 8: Kunming – Beijing
3. Shopping stops:
Kunming: Yunruilong Tourism and Cultural Creative Park (Pu’er tea, essential oils)
Dali: Jade Mall + Yinde Tianxia (jade, silverware)
Lijiang: Spirulina Distribution Center (spirulina)
Lijiang: Huanglong Jade Museum (Huanglong jade, Nanhong agate, jade)
Shangri-La: Shambhala Kalachakra Mandala
Xishuangbanna: Dai minority village (medicinal silver, silverware)
Kunming: Xianghuagang (flowers, dried flowers, jade, Huanglong jade, essential oils, Pu’er tea, silverware, flower cakes, coffee, Yunnan specialties)
4. Optional self-funded activities:
Lijiang: Songcheng Eternal Love or Lishui Jinsha show (280 yuan/person)
Shangri-La: Tibetan Land Feast (Tibetan barley wine, performances, 300 yuan/person)
Xishuangbanna: Bonfire party (280 yuan/person)
1. Tour fee: 3080 yuan/person, 3080 x 3 + 55 (insurance) = 9175 yuan;
2. Local transportation costs: 315.5 yuan;
Home to airport: 140 yuan;
Kunming: Zhongyuan Hotel to Yunnan Folk Village 36 yuan, return 42 yuan;
Capital Airport to home: 97 yuan;
3. Meal expenses: 502.5 yuan;
4. Shopping: 6477 yuan;
5. Self-funded activities: 1046 yuan;
Yunnan Folk Village entrance: 90 + 90 + 45 = 225 yuan;
Stone Forest battery car: 25 x 3 = 75 yuan;
Dali Ancient Town maintenance fee: 30 x 3 = 90 yuan;
Dali battery car: 35 x 3 = 105 yuan;
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Potatso National Park: oxygen canisters 236 (large 100/can, small 68/can, down jacket rental 45/piece)
Potatso National Park boat ride: 50/person/trip x 3 = 150 yuan;
Xishuangbanna: Manfeilong White Pagoda battery car, 40 yuan/person x 3 = 120 yuan;
Total expenses: 9175 + 315.5 + 502.5 + 6477 + 1046 = 17496 yuan; Average cost per person: 5832 yuan.
We flew to Kunming on July 23 and returned to Beijing on the 30th. The weather was great—not a single rainy day, truly blessed.
Temperatures in Kunming weren't high, around 20°C, cooler at night. For group tours, it's best to bring plenty of cash. A bank card is essential—most shops accept cards, but battery cars and cable cars require cash. For Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Potatso National Park, a slightly thicker spring/autumn jacket is enough; in July and August you basically don't need to rent down jackets. Personally, I felt oxygen canisters were practically useless—altitude sickness was basically non-existent, not as serious as the guide made out. Carrying one just gave psychological comfort, and helped boost the guide's income. Hotel rooms don't have many power outlets, so bringing a multi-socket adapter is a good idea.
I'd never joined a low-cost group tour before, and this time I got to experience it firsthand. We were part of a Beijing-formed group with a tour leader. Yunnan's local guides are quite skilled—whether in scenic commentary or shopping persuasion, you can't help but admire them. On such a low-cost tour, even without the guide's repeated reminders, we all knew the tour fee barely covered the flights. So if you just want a casual look-around, are mentally tough enough, or are specifically coming to shop, then it's fine. But if you're truly here to travel—eat well, play well, and rest well—I'd strongly advise against this kind of group tour, or you'll be asking for trouble with no one to blame. On such a budget tour, be psychologically prepared for multiple shopping stops, and also consider the need to appease every guide (five different guides over the trip, each one's salary and performance rely on this single group; unless you give superhuman effort, it's hard to keep them all happy). Opinions differ, but personally, I'll never join a group tour again. Spending money without comfort, yet feeling like you got a bargain—it's just not worth it.
Day 1, Beijing – Kunming
July 23, 2016
Woke at 3:00 am, left at 3:40 for the Capital Airport. The cab booked the day before was waiting downstairs. Boarded on time at 6:10, about to fly to Kunming.
Beijing–Kunming
Beijing–Kunming
Beijing–Kunming
Beijing–Kunming
Beijing–Kunming
Aerial view of downtown Kunming
Aerial view of downtown Kunming
Kunming Changshui Airport
After over three hours of flight, we arrived ahead of schedule at 10:40 at Kunming Changshui Airport. Waited for the local guide to finish paperwork and were taken directly to Zhongyuan Hotel. The hotel transfer vehicles were mostly small vans, holding 6-7 people with luggage—no official tour buses at the airport for pickup.
Checked into the hotel: Jinma Zhongyuan Hotel. Since it was the first day and the travel agency had no arrangements, the afternoon was free. After a short rest, we set off at 12:30 for Yunnan Folk Village.
Yunnan Folk Village is located 6 km south of Kunming, covering 2000 mu. The scenic area plans to build a village for each of Yunnan's 26 ethnic groups, along with a Unity Square, Ethnic Song & Dance Hall, Ethnic Museum, and Wax Museum—a microcosm of Yunnan's ethnic diversity.
The main gate is an imposing steel-frame structure. Above it hangs a large plaque with “Yunnan Folk Village” in bold, vigorous gold characters, and in the center a golden peacock emblem in flight, symbolizing auspiciousness, happiness, and prosperity.
First, we didn't enter the village entrance but a shopping plaza—somewhat reminiscent of Lijiang Ancient Town, though less crowded. The scenery was quite nice; even a snack shop had a cultural pagoda built around it, surprisingly.
Symbolizing the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
Tickets: adults 90 yuan, children half-price 45 yuan.
Achang Village features a courtyard-style main building, complemented by a gate, workshops, etc., with blue tiles, brick walls, and stone pillar bases—quite distinctive. The Achang people are known for hospitality and respect for elders.
Jingpo Shanguan (chieftain's house): Shanguan was the highest ruler of the Jingpo in old times. The house incorporates traditional stilt-style and inverted-T features, built with bamboo, wood, and thatch. Two stories: lower for storage/livestock, upper for living. Cattle skulls hang from central pillars—the thicker the pillar, the more wealth and power. Bamboo rings under the eaves represent the number of clansmen under the chieftain; ivory signifies wealth.
Jingpo ethnic costumes
De'ang people, unique to Yunnan, population nearly 20,000, mainly in Dehong and Baoshan. They generally follow Theravada Buddhism, with festivals linked to Buddhist events, like the Dai. Water-Splashing Festival (also called Flower Watering Festival), Door-Closing and Door-Opening festivals are major celebrations.
De'ang houses are typically thatched-roof stilt structures of bamboo and wood. The village here features a large house accommodating dozens, plus small hat-roofed huts, and romantic communal houses.
Jingpo tea culture is unique.
Aini people, a branch of the Hani, population ~190,000. Most Hani live in Honghe Prefecture; those in Xishuangbanna call themselves Aini. Men are called “Ali,” women “Abu.” They revere black as beauty, avoid white and even numbers.
July 27, 2016, the 24th day of the sixth lunar month: Torch Festival is an ancient, grand festival of the Yi, Bai, Naxi, Jinuo, Lahu, etc., with deep cultural roots, renowned worldwide as the “Eastern Carnival.”
Bai people, the 15th largest minority in China, mostly in Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan; concentrated in Dali. They have three main branches, strongly influenced by Han culture.
Bai Village covers 62.5 mu. Traditional Bai architecture with flying eaves, carved beams. Layouts include “three-room house with one screen wall,” “four houses and five courtyards,” dyeing workshop, wood carving house, garden teahouse, stage, Benzhu temple, and miniature Three Pagodas, making the village orderly and spacious.
Miniature Three Pagodas reflected in water, a picturesque scene.
Dali Street runs through, with folk museum and butterfly hall.
Zhuang people, the most populous minority, mostly in Guangxi, also 1+ million in Yunnan, mainly Wenshan, some in Honghe and Qujing.
Bronze drums are the Zhuang's most representative instrument. They've made and used them for over 2000 years. Drums vary in size, pattern-decorated, historically symbols of power and wealth, used in rituals, weddings, funerals, and entertainment.
Zhuang housing similar to Han, some still use stilt “ganlan” buildings with upper living quarters and lower for animals/storage, though now often separate. Their architecture, with mountain-side villages near water, reflects geography, climate, habits, and rich folk culture.
Wind-and-Rain Bridge in Zhuang village.
Near “Lugu Lake” stands a Mosuo “log cabin” compound, entirely of logs, called “Mosuo Home.” Mosuo people, ~80,000, live by Lugu Lake in northwest Yunnan, still retaining matriarchal and matrilineal family practices, fascinating anthropologists. Here, hospitable Mosuo girls sing, dance, offer butter tea, and paddle pig-trough boats, singing “Madami” memorably.
Jinuo Village, connected by bridge to Wa and Bulang villages. Amid greenery and rocks, thatched Jinuo cottages are scattered like in the mountainous Jinuo region. Features include communal house, residences, granary, and Sun Square, reflecting solar calendar and sun worship. Central stone globe carved with ancestor; surrounding pillars mark directions. The Jinuo calendar has 12 months of 30 days, similar to Han with Earthly Branches first, then Heavenly Stems, 60-year cycle.
Jinuo are ancient, officially recognized as China's 56th ethnic group in 1979. “Jinuo” means “following maternal uncle,” implying “uncle-revering.” Mainly in Jinuo Township, Jinghong, Xishuangbanna. Tea-growing farmers, speaking Jinuo language.
Sun Drum: a large drum about 1m long, 40-50 cm diameter, ox-hide covered, only beaten during Temoke festival and for deity “Tieluo Momo.”
Lahu Village next to Jinuo, with thatch houses, communal house, church, cowshed, and Gourd Square—shaped like a huge gourd, stone gourd sculptures in center. Legend says Lahu ancestors born from gourd, symbolizing ancestor worship. ~410,000 Lahu, mainly along Lancang River in Simao and Lincang.
Western Yunnan bordering Myanmar; Lincang has Han, Wa, Yi, Dai, Lahu, etc. “Sigangli” is a Wa creation epic: “Sigang” means cave, “li” come out, referring to the place Bagadai near Yanxing, British Burma.
Bulang people, ~90,000, in mountains west of Lancang River. Their village adjoins Wa, with dwellings and deity square showing animist beliefs. Central totem pole, venue for rituals, songs, dances.
Bulang settlements, three to dozens of related families, in two-story bamboo houses with central hearth for cooking and sleeping. No surnames; men called Ai-XX, women Yi-XX. Still practice mother-child linked names, remnants of matrilineal society.
Stone carvings in deity square symbolize male/female reproductive organs, reflecting worship of life, fertility, and prosperity.
Wa population ~360,000, in Awa Mountains. Village in southeast corner, with thatched stilt houses, Ox Head Square, Deity Square, Sigangli stone carving, granary. Deity Square embodies animist beliefs with statues of “Muyiji” and “Ayi'e.”
Wa wooden drum dance is bold and energetic, with long-hair twirling. Scenes of annual ox sacrifice, “New Rice Tasting,” and “Tongpa Weaving” brim with life.
Ox Head Square: ancient ox-slaughter site; central ox horn is village pillar. Stone statues represent male and female ancestors.
Miao people, 1.04 million, distributed throughout Yunnan, concentrated in Guangnan, Jinping, Pingbian, Maguan.
Dai Village, 27 mu, surrounded by water on three sides, shaded by greenery. Stilt bamboo houses linked by red sandstone paths to a solemn Buddhist temple. White Pagoda, graceful Wind-and-Rain Bridge, pavilions, wells, bell tower—a true reflection of Dai life.
Yunyan Pagoda with many small Buddhas; legend says its 365 wind chimes represent days of the year, ensuring favorable weather.
In Yunnan Folk Village, auspicious Dai White Pagoda, grand Three Pagodas, towering Yi totem poles, deep Naxi Dongba culture, Wa wooden drums, Bulang wedding customs, Jinuo Sun Drum, Lahu reed-pipe dances, Tibetan monastery from snowy highlands, Hani Dragon Gate, De'ang Longyang Pagoda, Jingpo Munao Zongge, Zhuang bronze drum culture, unique Mosuo matriarchal legacy, amusing Asian elephant show, exquisite ethnic foods, diverse cultures—all intoxicate and captivate. Exiting right, about 1 km walk to Haigeng Park.
Being July, we didn't see a single seagull at Dianchi Lake, a slight regret. As dusk fell, we took a cab back to the hotel.
July 24, 2016, Kunming – Chuxiong
The Colorful Clouds journey officially began. Early morning 6:30 wake-up, 7:00 breakfast, 7:30 departure. First stop: Stone Forest, 80+ km away. Our 30-seater coach with 20-odd people. The guide immediately laid down the law—introduced himself, listed many rules, then started brainwashing us. We just closed our eyes and napped. After nearly two hours, we reached Stone Forest.
Stone Forest Scenic Area: World Natural Heritage, Global Geopark, national 5A scenic spot. Also called Yunnan Stone Forest, in Shilin Yi Autonomous County, 350 sq km. Rich in scenery and folklore, hometown of Ashima. Formed 270 million years ago, a pinnacle of karst landforms, with the longest evolution history, widest distribution, complete types, unique paleozoic karst clusters, hailed as “world's top natural wonder.” Comprises Stone Forest, Naigu Stone Forest, Flying Dragon Waterfall, Changhu Lake, Guishan, Moon Lake, Qi Feng Cave, etc., known for grandeur, wonder, peril, beauty, seclusion, mystery, and vastness. Diverse landscapes: stone teeth, peak clusters, karst hills, caves, lakes, waterfalls, underground rivers.
In April 1955, Premier Zhou and Marshal Chen Yi visited. Seeing little water in the depressions, Zhou suggested, “Where there are mountains, there should be water, then it won't be dry.” Following his advice, the original karst depression was transformed into today's Stone Forest Lake.
The placid lake with stone pinnacles rises like a natural bonsai.
About 360 million years ago in the Paleozoic Devonian, this area was part of the ancient Yunnan-Guizhou sea. Around 280 million years ago in the Carboniferous, the Stone Forest began forming. Limestone eroded by sea currents left countless grooves and pillars. Later, Earth's crust uplifted and over eons, sun-scorched and rain-carved, weathered and quaked, this fairy-tale-like wonder emerged. From afar, clusters of huge gray-black stone peaks point skyward like a vast dark forest, hence “Stone Forest.”
Small Stone Forest (Ashima scenic area): Broad, solid stone walls like screens divide it into garden-like sections. The most famous spot is “Ashima”—as night falls with colorful lights, it's enchanting.
By shimmering Yubian Pool stands a lifelike stone peak, like an elegant Yi maiden. That's the famous Ashima Stone: lithe, graceful, standing quietly on the ridge, carrying a small bamboo basket on her back, eyes brimming with affection, gazing into the distance, thoughtful and waiting. “Peaks like swords, sky like mirror, reflecting Ashima's beauty.” Legend says Ashima and Ahei truly loved each other, but the landlord Rebubala cruelly killed her. She turned into stone, becoming an eternal echo: “The sun may die, but I won't; clouds may scatter, but I won't.” Thus, the image of beauty, diligence, bravery, kindness, and virtue became a symbol of pursuing happiness and love. Despite centuries of wind and rain, the pure, devoted, untainted Ashima spirit stands unwavering in the Stone Forest—what steadfast sentiment!
Small Stone Forest scenes: Camel Raising Head, Giant Turtle Carrying Stele, Sky-reaching Rock, Moon Dance Meadow with towering stone clusters.
“Mountains crown the world, customs enchant the nation.” Wandering through “Lovers by Secluded Pool,” “Liu Bei Welcoming Guests,” “Su Wu Shepherding,” every artful vista leaves lingering nostalgia and serene dreams. We slowed our pace, strolling along the winding path by “Lotus Pond.” The mirror-like lake reflected picturesque mountains, sparkling under sunlight.
Following the shaded path upward from Lotus Pond, we soon reached the heart of the park—“Stone Forest Magnificent View.” In front of the huge stone wall carved with “Stone Forest,” tourists from everywhere had gathered. According to the guide, the calligraphy was originally by “Yunnan King” Long Yun, but his authentic inscription was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution; later, when his son returned to pay homage, the provincial government had characters selected from his calligraphy collection and re-carved, fairly similar to the original. Standing before the wall, you feel its towering presence. The carvings “Pillar of Southern Heaven,” “Majestic Spirit,” “Celestial Wonder,” “Top of the World,” “World's Number One Wonder” aptly capture its grandeur. Everyone posed for photos. In this nook amidst the human tide, I felt small as a grain in the vast sea.
Turning past the “Stone Forest” carving, we followed a path winding through jagged rocks into deep, mysterious forest. Above, under a gray sky, towering pinnacles lined the way, a massive rock suspended between two peaks, seemingly about to fall. The cliffside inscription “Hang by a Thread” was vividly apt, making hearts race. They say honest gentlemen can pass safely beneath, while scheming villains risk disaster.
The guide joked: “Tread lightly and hold your breath when passing, or that rock might fall.” Haha, just a joke. Actually, this rock has been “settled” here for over 3 million years, surviving countless earthquakes—it won't fall.
Stone pillars, long eroded vertically by rain, have sharp edges and grooves like swords pointing skyward, called sword-like columns. Horizontal dissolution hollows from groundwater when the pillar was underground; small pits on the surface are mainly from biological erosion.
Marvels emerge endlessly, as if opening onto other worlds; the Stone Forest's labyrinth is magical. Near noon, we reluctantly bid farewell. In this tolerant, secluded wonderland away from worldly cares, perhaps we can let imagination soar, turning ourselves into a beautiful landscape, letting life blossom with brilliance and everlasting happiness... Clear and dust-free, a carefree heart. Stone Forest's beauty, for us, is enough!
After exiting the scenic area, we had lunch, then visited Yun Rui Long Chen Tourism and Cultural Creative Park for over two hours—mainly tasting Pu'er tea and essential oils. Shopping done, we drove 200 km to Chuxiong, staying at Yubo Hotel.
Day 3, Chuxiong – Dali – Shuanglang – Heqing
July 25, 2016
For those who haven't been to Dali, knowledge often comes from two sources: Jin Yong's novels, where Emperor Duan's “Single Finger Skill” hints at the mystery of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom; and the 1960s film “Five Golden Flowers,” with the song “Meeting at Butterfly Spring” spreading Dali's scenic fame. But Dali has far more. Dali Ancient City, also called Yeyu City, Zicheng, has a long history, known for its literary tradition. Humans lived here since Paleolithic and Neolithic times. During Western Han, it was incorporated into the empire. In Tang and Song, it became the successive local regimes Nanzhao and Dali. Before the Yuan Dynasty, it was Yunnan's political, economic, cultural center. After that, the center moved to Kunming, but Dali remained the hub of western Yunnan.
Its history and culture left rich relics. Nestled between Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake, the scenery is gorgeous: Cangshan like a screen, Erhai like a mirror, deep Butterfly Spring, plus the “Four Wonders” (Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flower, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon). Dali is a main Bai settlement, preserving unsophisticated yet rich Bai customs. Here you can learn their lifestyle, taste distinctive Bai food, buy pleasing folk crafts, and join the traditional March Fair festival. Dali attracts foreign backpackers, forming a “Foreigner Street” on Huguo Road. Entranced by Bai folkways and history, some even settle long-term.
One of the three mysteriously vanished ancient kingdoms of China. Among five millennia of civilization, some ancient states flourished then suddenly disappeared—most famously Yelang, Dali, and Loulan. All existed for centuries, created brilliant cultures, then vanished into historical dust.
Du Wenxiu's Marshal Mansion
People's Heroes Monument
Jianggong Temple is dedicated to Qing General Jiang Zonghan, who donated for schools, waterworks, and transportation. In 1876, he privately donated 100,000 to build Jinlong Bridge (Zili Bridge) over Jinsha River; completed in 1880 with 18 iron chains, each ~1 ton, 500 links. For 70 years, it was the only bridge across the upper Jinsha, now a nationally protected relic.
Located at 123 Yu'er Road, Dali Ancient City, it became Dali Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum in 1985. Here, there's a weighty history and vibrant displays of intangible heritage.
Not a famous spot, but as the museum, the guide presented Bai ethnic costumes, tie-dye, silver ornaments—quick and forgettable. One courtyard sells snacks; you buy a ticket at the cashier then redeem for snacks.
After Dali Ancient City, we headed to Bai Folk Village.
Dali Taoyuan Bai Folk Village (cormorant fishing show, Cangshan-Erhai vistas, Bai dwellings, song and dance performances).
Butterfly Spring scenic area panorama.
Taoyuan Dock near Taoyuan Village, on the Dali-Lijiang tourist road and National Highway 214. Taoyuan is the real hometown of the Five Golden Flowers, close to Butterfly Spring. With Cangshan Mountains behind, Erhai Lake before, picturesque fields, greenery, and white-walled Bai houses by the shore, it's a true hidden paradise.
Cormorants, known as “water old crow” or “bird ghost,” are widely distributed, but only two species can be trained for fishing. In October 2009, “Dali Bai cormorant training and fishing skills” was listed as Yunnan's second-batch intangible cultural heritage.
The skill is unique: with beautiful, high-pitched, melodious calls and songs, the Bai train cormorants to understand commands, cooperating seamlessly in catching fish.
Shuanglang Town lies northeast of Dali, on Erhai's northeast shore, backed by Jizu Mountain, bordering Wase, Shangguan, Heqing. It has Luoshi and Lianhua Bends, with Jinsuo and Yuji islands embraced in between—hence “Shuanglang” (double corridor).
Erhai has three islands, four islets, five lakes, nine bends. Shuanglang sits at the junction of two bends on a sandbar, flanked by Nanzhao Custom Island and Yuji Island, with the double bends embracing the double islands—origin of the name.
By Erhai Lake, opposite the 19 peaks of Cangshan, it boasts the best scenery: “Dali's beauty is in Cang'er, Cang'er's beauty is in Shuanglang.”
As ancient poets wrote, “Eyes encompass lake and mountain for a thousand miles, oneself amid water and sky in one hue.” Unsure if this is fairyland or heaven on earth.
After Shuanglang, we headed to Heqing, staying at Heqing Homeland Hotel. This day involved the longest driving: Chuxiong to Dali 200 km ~2.5 hrs; Dali to Heqing 150 km ~2+ hrs. Tiring.
Day 4, Heqing – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Lijiang Ancient Town
July 26, 2016
After breakfast, we set off for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The guide said it was cold there, so we'd go at noon. First, we were taken to the Jade Mall. En route, the guide kept indoctrinating us, even claiming our shopping record would be registered and linked to personal credit—speechless. The most outrageous was demanding each person spend at least 3000 yuan on average (guide's exact words). The itinerary listed Jade Mall + Yinde Tianxia, meaning jade first, then silver. We spent nearly 3 hours there. After that, the guide made a few concluding remarks on the bus, then said, “The driver will take you to lunch, and a Naxi guide will take you to the mountain in the afternoon,” and left. Everyone felt cheated.
After lunch, we went straight to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, in Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, Lijiang, is China's southernmost snow mountain, part of the Shaluli range of Hengduan Mountains. Highest peak 5596 m, area 455 sq km. 13 peaks are perennially snow-capped, like a jade dragon lying across the mountains, about to leap into the Jinsha River—hence the name. Also known as “Black-White Snow Mountain” because of distinct limestone and basalt. It's famed for peril, wonder, beauty, and grace. With changing weather and seasons: clouds envelop it, or clear sky reveals glittering peaks; sometimes a belt of clouds around waist, or sunset veils it in rosy hue; after rain, snow extra white, pines extra green, like hide-and-seek. Vegetation varies drastically from base to summit—a world of difference. Glacial, alpine meadow, virgin forest, and water landscapes: main sights include Jade Pillar Sky, Spruce Meadow, snow mountain cableways, Black River, White River, Blue Moon Valley, and Baoshan Stone Town.
To the Naxi and Lijiang peoples, it's a sacred mountain, the embodiment of their protector deity “Sanduo.” Lijiang still holds an annual grand “Sanduo Festival.” A Naxi folk tale: Jade Dragon and Haba were twin brothers panning gold in the Jinsha River. A demon from the north seized the river, forbidding gold panning. The brothers fought; Haba weaker, beheaded, became Haba Snow Mountain. Jade Dragon fought three days and nights, broke thirteen swords, expelled the demon. He turned into thirteen peaks, his sweat becoming Black and White Rivers. Thus, Jade Dragon symbolizes Naxi external image, the heroic brother their inner spirit. Another love story: Naxi lovers facing family opposition would commit double suicide on the mountain, accompanied by the whole clan. They believed they'd go to a paradise, riding tigers, living in luxury. Historically, the largest mass suicide was 12 couples who found a rhododendron meadow, celebrated three days and nights, then hanged themselves pair by pair from trees.
(The next three photos of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain are not mine; we only took the small cableway—downloaded from internet, so stated)
The scenic area has three cableways: large (Glacier Park, reaches highest point for snow), small (Spruce Meadow, closest to Blue Moon Valley), and medium (Yak Meadow, depending on season only large gives snow access).
Ganhaizi—altitude 3100 m, east of the mountain, originally a glacial lake at the foot; now dried up due to rising snowline. It's the best spot for panoramic views, and a tourist hub with dining, lodging, shopping, and even the highest golf course in Asia.
Spruce Meadow small cableway entrance.
From the cable car, looking down at a vast, lush forest.
Alighting, we were in a primeval forest. The path was wooden planks with railings, winding deeper—called Spruce Plank Road, made of chestnut wood, like a mountain trail. Walking there, the fresh air cleansed the soul; all worries seemed to vanish. Towering spruces lined the way, autumn sunlight filtering through, gilding mossy ground. Blending life and decay: moss hanging like beards, fallen trees covered in moss like bleak tombs. Centuries of untouched wilderness—a natural Eden.
Spruce Meadow—altitude 3240 m, Naxi name “Wulu Youcuige,” meaning “love-death place,” a spiritual homeland for young Naxi lovers seeking perfect love. In the Dongba classic “Luban Rurao,” it's portrayed as an ideal land where deer are plow cattle, red tigers are mounts, pheasants announce dawn, snow brews fine wine, trees bear golden fruit, no flies—a “Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon.” It's a sea of flowers and alpine meadow, encircled by dense spruces, serene and otherworldly.
Legend says this is where the first Naxi lovers committed suicide. According to the tale, the originators were Kaimen and Yuleipai, whose love was thwarted by polygamous feudal marriage. They sought freedom in death on Spruce Meadow. Every June during Torch Festival, young people from nearby villages would bring paper figures of the couple here to pay tribute.
Spruce Meadow is seen as the entrance to the mythical “Third Kingdom.” Here, the majestic mountain looms, millennia-old glaciers visible. Apart from the views, you can enjoy the forest's mystery and ethnic performances.
Listening to the Naxi guide's explanation, I felt reverence. Spruce Meadow is the Naxi's sacred ground—they believe from here one goes to the “Third Kingdom.” Dongba scriptures describe it: “endless silks and satins, endless fresh fruits and delicacies, endless fine wine and sweet milk, inexhaustible gold and silver, fiery red tigers as steeds, silver-horned deer to plow, wide-eared foxes as hounds, fancy-tailed pheasants to herald dawn.” Compared to our “Peach Blossom Spring,” the Naxi “Third Kingdom” is even more romantic and glorious. What moved me most was that Spruce Meadow has been a suicide spot since ancient times—jumping off cliffs, hanging, poison. It's not myth but real events. “Ask the world, what is love, that makes life and death a promise?” How many deeply moving love stories has Spruce Meadow witnessed! Naxi lovers who died for love believed their souls would enter the Third Kingdom and gain eternal happiness.
Here is the Lovers' Stone, sacred for love pledges.
White River, formed by glacial meltwater from the mountain, cascades down layered valleys. The water is clear, dark green. The riverbed is of white limestone and marble fragments, so from afar it looks like a white river. Legend says its waters come from the jade dragon's mouth, imbued with spirituality, making it a love spot too. Near Spruce Meadow, this pristine stream is unpolluted. Standing on the bridge, facing the rushing white water, the frozen snow and ice evoke endless reveries.
Washing once in White River brings wealth luck; twice, career luck; three times, romance luck.
Blue Moon Valley, formerly known as “White River.” On sunny days, the water appears blue, and the valley is crescent-shaped, like a blue moon set at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain—hence the name. The name White River comes from the white mud at the lakebed; when it rains, the water turns white.
The river forms four larger pools blocked by the terrain: “Jade Liquid,” “Mirror Pool,” “Blue Moon,” and “Listening to the Waves” lakes.
Lush vegetation lines the shores, distant snowy peaks as backdrop. The water is translucent blue, almost solidified, with flecks of green. Looking around from the center, clouds align, float on the mountain ridges, reflected on the lake—dreamlike, almost celestial.
After Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, en route to Lijiang Ancient Town, we visited a spirulina distribution center. Then we arrived in the ancient town, checked into Yadingyue Hotel. After settling in, we immediately set out to explore Lijiang Ancient Town by night.
Lijiang Ancient Town, also called Dayan, lies in the middle of Lijiang Dam. Along with Langzhong, Pingyao, and Shexian, it's one of the “four best-preserved ancient towns” in China. Dayan has no city walls. Smooth flagstone streets, hand-built timber-and-earth houses, small bridges over flowing streams everywhere. The streets wind along hills and water; mostly red breccias paving, non-slippery in rain, dust-free in dry weather, with natural elegant patterns that harmonize with the surroundings. The central Square Street is the heart; the Big Water Wheels at the boundary of old and new town are iconic. Nearby, a large screen plays the most popular local songs, among them “Naxi Pure Land.”
