A Secluded, Luxurious Getaway: A Romantic Journey Through Dali

I don’t know when it started, but it seems like eight out of ten people around me want to go to Dali. Perhaps after being cooped up for too long among the city's concrete and steel, we all yearn for the gentle caress of fresh breezes, the rich and ancient customs, and unique cultural charm.

It’s often said that Dali is a perfect travel destination all year round—the serene Erhai Lake, the lively towns, and the poetic charm of its boutique hotels. The romance of its wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight stretches far into the tranquility, a beauty so effortless and refreshing! Sometimes, just looking up at the sky, you feel as if every drifting cloud carries a story.

In April, when it's just warming up yet still chilly, I always long for a quiet and rustic place to escape the cold and just space out. Dali became our top destination. Coincidentally, a friend told me about a hidden luxury hotel in Dali with an Instagrammable floating afternoon tea. Unable to contain my restless heart, I booked flights and hotel in advance, grabbed my friends, and flew to Dali for a mountain retreat among the green hills and clear waters.

DAY 1: Hangzhou – Lijiang – Dali, stay at Hainaner Yunshu Hotel

DAY 2: Xizhou Ancient Town, Lanxu Tie-dye, self-drive around Erhai Lake, Instagrammable floating afternoon tea

DAY 3: Bed Sheet Art Park, Dali Ancient City, return journey

Staying at Hainaner – A Secluded Luxury Trip of Romance

Due to the pandemic, flights from Hangzhou to Yunnan had become scarce. What used to be a direct flight now required a stopover in Zunyi, landing in Lijiang, and then heading west to Dali—only after three stages did we finally arrive as planned. Wearing masks all the way, we only felt liberated once we got off the plane and into the car.

The hotel we booked was on Cangshan Mountain. It’s said to be part of the Canghai Golf International Community—one of those courses golf enthusiasts feel they must conquer in their lifetime. Following the navigation uphill, we passed misty mountains and streams flowing through the valleys. Everything exuded a natural, rustic, tranquil, and elegant charm, like a hidden paradise away from the hustle and bustle, soothing, heartwarming, and healing.

‘Hainaner’ comes from the Bai language, meaning ‘blue sky, white clouds.’ Backed by Cangshan and facing Erhai Lake, 23 guest rooms are quietly nestled here. This mountain-side resort offers a taste of local life when you step out, and the company of starlight when you stay in. Both the rooms and recreational facilities are worth praising. In the afternoon, you can enjoy an Instagrammable floating tea in the stunning pool; at night, you can indulge in a bit of refined luxury at the mini golf course or the cigar lounge. Even better, looking at the map, Dali Ancient City is only a 10-minute drive from the hotel, and famous spots like Chongsheng Temple and Dali Ancient City are just 5 minutes away, making it super convenient for sightseeing.

Checking in at the lobby, the four of us unanimously chose a standalone villa. This way, we could stay together and easily head out, yet each have our own private room—how delightful!

Pushing open the door, the antique black walnut solid wood furniture made the room feel natural, comfortable, spacious, and bright. The Chinese style was elegantly emphasized—refined but not old-fashioned, presenting a classic romantic Chinese decor with exquisite taste. The room’s color palette was dominated by clean whites and natural wood tones, with furniture designs that were consistently simple and graceful, featuring smooth, flowing lines, and hemp carpets that added a sense of natural affinity.

With underfloor heating, air conditioning, a mini iPad 4, a coffee machine, free Wi-Fi, a Bose wireless audio system, and a laptop-size safe, the room was made both comfortable and elegant.

To avoid climbing stairs, I chose a starry sky room on the top floor—a clean and refreshing single room that was especially comfortable. When I went downstairs to meet my friend, I took a peek at his suite. The exquisite Chinese red paired with the grand, luxurious space made me incredibly envious!

The hotel has only one restaurant, offering both Chinese and Western dishes. Since it was our first time in Yunnan, we wanted to try something local, so we ordered Yunnan rice noodles from the butler. When it was served, it came with a full table of condiments, exquisitely presented.

The broth was milky white and translucent, rich in aroma. We poured all the side dishes and rice noodles in, stirred well to let the noodles blend with the rich broth and absorb the flavors. Just the fragrance in the air was irresistible. We couldn’t help but exclaim, ‘Eating rice noodles this way is so ceremonial!’

After a satisfying dinner, being new to Dali, we didn't feel like going down to the ancient city for more excitement. We asked the butler what else there was to do nearby. The guys were very interested in the mini golf he highly recommended, so we stayed at the hotel, played some golf, and then took a stroll around the wine and cigar lounges.

The butler told us that the wine bar gathers fine wines from world-renowned estates, and many of the cigars in the cigar lounge are the owner’s private collection. Private and elegant, it’s usually open to guests, making it an ideal spot for any business traveler to chat.

We chatted for a while in the golf bar and wine bar before remembering to ask about afternoon tea. Worried it might not be available due to the pandemic, we specially made a reservation with the butler a day in advance, which put us at ease to rest.

The next morning in Dali, the sky was still clear and blue. We heard that in Hangzhou it was raining heavily with a sudden temperature drop. Friends teased, ‘We’re so lucky, coming here to escape the rain and cold, haha.’

Breakfast had been arranged the day before with the butler’s inquiry, including Chinese and Western options, fruits, drinks, desserts, and snacks—everything you could want. We eagerly arranged everything, took photos, and then contentedly tasted it all. Time seemed to stand still, warm and cozy. I thought, sipping a cup of tea, enjoying a lasting beautiful view, and savoring a lovely moment—what a pleasure.

The view outside the restaurant remained the hotel’s most captivating sight. Set within one of China’s most beautiful golf courses, an Instagram-famous semi-suspended infinity pool came into view. Through the glass pool, you could overlook the entire golf course—a snapshot taken at random would look like a movie scene!

Hainaner Yunshu Hotel related tips:

(1) Address: Buildings 2-5, Canghai Golf International Community, Dali City;

(2) Transportation: The hotel is about 60 minutes by car (33 km) from Dali Airport, 50 minutes by car (21 km) from the city center, and only 40 minutes by bullet train from Dali Railway Station;

(3) The hotel is very convenient for taxis, and it offers unlimited free shuttles daily to locations within 15 km in Dali;

(4) The hotel has many entertainment facilities—wine bar, cigar lounge, and spa require booking one day in advance.

Xizhou Ancient Town – Enjoying Slow Dali Time

Leaving the hotel, having been to Dali three or four times, we asked the butler where some lesser-known fun spots were. After listening to his enthusiastic introduction and recommendations for Xizhou and Gusheng Village by Erhai Lake, we invited him to accompany us on the outing, so he could also introduce things along the way.

Xizhou was our first stop. It’s a famous historical and cultural town of the Bai ethnic group, lying against Cangshan to the west and facing Erhai Lake to the east. Historically, it’s said that Xizhou was an important military town of the Nanzhao Kingdom and one of Yunnan’s commercial centers. It still preserves the most and best Bai-style residential complexes and is the hometown of the movie ‘Five Golden Flowers.’

Before entering the town, a vast field of rapeseed flowers lay before us. We heard that at the end of March, it’s filled with golden blossoms, and with Dali’s healing sky, it becomes a fairyland. Although the blooming season was over, leaving a dull yellow tone that seemed a bit barren, it added a serene beauty to the place.

Some chairs and props were thoughtfully placed in the fields for girls to take photos. It’s said that during peak season, you have to queue here, but now with few people, we could freely take photos in the field.

Walking further, we strolled through the ancient town, where many Ming and Qing dynasty buildings are preserved. The basic architectural forms include ‘one main room with one side room,’ ‘one main room with two side rooms,’ ‘three main rooms with a screen wall,’ and ‘a courtyard with four buildings and five patios.’ Being up close to traditional Bai residences let us truly feel the local Bai people’s life. Passing through long, narrow bluestone paths worn smooth by time, it was peaceful and rustic.

The Corner Building is a trendy landmark in Xizhou. Besides wandering the four lanes extending from the four corners of Sifang Street, at the Corner Building’s intersection, you can explore all four roads.

And if there’s one place that’s the most lively in Xizhou, it’s definitely Sifang Street! Yes, you read that right—Xizhou also has a small Sifang Street. The tiny street is lined with stalls selling various trinkets, and vendors in local attire chat idly about daily life, full of authentic local flavor.

[Lanxu Tie-dye Experience]

Standing among the Lanxu tie-dye fabrics, you might have an inexplicable illusion.

Dali’s sky is God’s own tie-dye city.

Although Zhoucheng is the true hub of tie-dye in Dali, if your time is limited, do check out Lanxu Tie-dye in Xizhou Ancient Town.

The town is small; you can spot Lanxu Tie-dye just by walking around. Entering a courtyard, you’ll see tie-dyed cloths of all sizes, with varying shades of blue and white, exuding a captivating charm. If you’re interested, you can even make your own tie-dye here!

According to the girls there, the tie-dye craft of Xizhou’s Bai people has a long history. Although the patterns on a tie-dye cloth may seem simple, the entire process is complex: from making the dye, carving the stencil, printing, to tying, desizing, multiple immersions, drying, fixing, removing the stitches, and rinsing. It takes 1,500 jin of isatis root to produce just one barrel of indigo dye, and growing isatis alone takes half a year before harvest, plus a long wait for fermentation to make dye!

I had also been eyeing the trendy Jizhao Nunnery, where many celebrities have visited. I had hoped to have a popular vegetarian meal there, but unfortunately, the nunnery wasn’t open due to the pandemic, so we had to let it go.

When visiting Xizhou, you must try Xizhou baba, a snack that looks very much like a Chinese pizza. It comes in sweet and savory flavors; you should try both the fresh meat and rose jam varieties. My friends had already done their research and checked out the old shop ‘Monk Posu Baba.’ The taste was indeed delicious, haha.

After the snack, seeing that it was almost noon, we visited Hanlinyuan Restaurant in the town. It’s also a Bai traditional architecture experience shop. Signature dishes like Grandma’s Potato, Braised Chicken, Pickled Vegetable Stir-fry with Pork, and Sour and Spicy Fish were served one after another—all pleasing to the eye, nose, and palate, earning endless praise.

Xizhou Ancient Town related tips:

(1) Address: Xizhou Ancient Town, 221 Provincial Road, Dali City, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province

(2) Transportation: Catch a minibus heading to Xizhou from Dali Ancient City or Xiaguan. It stops when you wave along the Yunnan-Tibet Highway. The fare is 5-8 yuan, and it takes about an hour from Xiaguan to Xizhou. You can make a day trip or stay overnight.

(3) Open all day, free admission.

Self-drive around Erhai Lake – The Most Beautiful Time is on the Road

Leaving Xizhou, our next stop was the must-see Erhai Lake, the backdrop for many movies. The artsy phrase ‘Why not head west to Dali’ has been popular for years, and going to Dali means going to Erhai. The water of Erhai is a pure, transparent blue, so clear you can see the bottom, known as a flawless jade in the human world. Anyone who comes to Dali will visit this place.

We heard that many parts around Erhai were under construction and inaccessible, including the much-anticipated Haishe Park. Our accompanying butler recommended a route through Gusheng Village (at that moment, we truly appreciated having a local guide). The village features rustic houses, tidy streets, meandering streams, and shady trees. A short walk around the village led us straight to the lakeside. Even though it was the dry season, Erhai Lake was still picture-perfect.

Gazing quietly into the distance, by the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake, among the wind, flowers, snow, and moon, Dali always has a beauty and a touching story that gives you a compelling reason to visit.

A place like Erhai Lake isn’t meant for a superficial passing—only by savoring it slowly can you feel its romance. Driving leisurely along the lakeside road on a sunny day, you’ll encounter the beauty of Cangshan and Erhai in an unexpected meeting.

Hainaner – Finally Checking Off the Long-Awaited Floating Afternoon Tea

After a long day, the butler told us the much-anticipated floating afternoon tea was ready, so we happily got into the car and headed back to the hotel to rest.

I’d seen countless social media posts about ‘Bali floating breakfast/afternoon tea’ and always wanted to try it on island trips but missed out each time. I never expected Dali to have floating afternoon tea! This was what initially drew me to this hotel!

Unfortunately, by the time we returned in the afternoon, the weather had turned overcast and chilly. But unwilling to miss this trendy afternoon tea, we still sat by the pool and took a few photos.

Hainaner’s infinity heated pool features a 360° panoramic design, offering an all-around view. Suspended above the lush green golf course, it looks like a sapphire set between heaven and earth.

Gathering here with a few good friends, chatting about life and dreams, it’s a feast for both the taste buds and the eyes. For a moment, it felt like being in Bali, turning tough times into something fun and bright.

As we got out of the pool, the sky darkened and the air turned chilly. The butler thoughtfully prepared a Yunnan-style native chicken and cured meat hot pot for us. We dipped various vegetables and meats we liked, chatted about everyday things, and felt a bit reluctant to leave.

Art and Trend in the Ancient City – Bed Sheet Factory Art Zone

Our last day’s itinerary was simple. The butler accompanied us to visit a new Instagram-worthy spot in Dali—the Bed Sheet Factory Art Zone, a hub for art and culture lovers. Bookstores, artworks, studios; every casual snapshot oozes artistic sentiment!

The art zone was established in 2014, transformed from an abandoned factory into a modern cultural and artistic complex. While preserving the 1990s factory architecture, it adds artistic designs, giving an overall feel that’s both retro and modern.

This small art zone attracts numerous artists, craftsmen, writers, musicians, painters, photographers, silverware designers, architects, bands, potters, and more, who have set up over 40 studios in various fields—independent bookstores, galleries, cafés, tea houses, gourmet kitchens—fully representing Dali’s unique and diverse cultural art forms.

Walking inward, you’ll see the Bread Melon Mini Market. The vintage doorway, distressed chairs, and cool motorcycles instantly transform the space into an extremely artistic photo spot.

The first floor is extremely spacious, displaying many original designer works, and the spiral staircase is a visual stunner. The second floor is a café by day and a quiet bar by night. Strolling here during the day is truly one of life’s great pleasures.

Address: No. 56 Cangping Street, Dali City, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture

Admission free, open all day

Note: The Bed Sheet Factory Art Zone’s market day is the last Saturday of every month.

Farewell to the Ancient City, Reluctant to Leave Dali

On our way back, we suddenly wanted to find some tie-dye photo spots in the ancient city, so we turned back to Dali Ancient City. At the foot of Cangshan, Dali Ancient City was first built in the 15th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1382 AD), also known as Yeyu City, the Forbidden City, and Zhonghe Town. With over 1,200 years of history, it was the capital of the ancient Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms.

In early spring, the streets inside the city are laid out in a typical chessboard pattern. Warm sunlight shone on the elegant Wuhua Tower, and bustling crowds moved from one end of the ancient city to the other.

The buildings in the ancient city all feature grey-tiled roofs, looking exceptionally quaint and serene. Everywhere you see shops full of nostalgia, giving an indescribable sense of freedom and comfort. Green bricks and bougainvillea against the walls seem to be quietly telling tales of the city’s prosperity and liveliness. Walking on bluestone slabs worn by time, gazing at white walls and grey tiles all around, the gentle heart melts into the bygone days of this ancient city.

Finally, in a small alley near Wuhua Tower, we found the long-sought tie-dye photo spot, capping off this secluded and exclusive romantic journey through Dali.

I really love this saying: Mountains and water can love each other, while sun and moon may have nothing to do with each other! If a place can make you let go of the past and linger, it must be the warmth here that makes you reluctant to leave!

I think Dali is just that kind of place you yearn for. Next March when cherry blossoms bloom and fields are filled with rapeseed flowers, I’ll come back to spend more slow, romantic times here.

Travel Tips

1. About Transportation:

(1) You can reach Dali by plane or train. For flights, there are few direct routes from across the country; most require a transfer in Kunming or Lijiang.

(2) There are few direct train or high-speed rail routes to Dali. You can first go to Kunming, then take a high-speed train to Dali, which takes only 2 hours. Regular trains usually take 5-6 hours with about 4-5 departures a day.

(3) Local transport:

A. Dali Ancient City is about a 30-40 minute drive from both Dali Airport and Dali Railway Station. If you arrive at the station first, you can take a bus, Didi, or carpool to the ancient city.

B. You can ask your guesthouse or hotel about pickup service. The Hainaner we stayed at offered free pickup from Dali Airport or Dali Railway Station.

2. About Food:

When in Dali, as a foodie, what I most want to recommend is the local cuisine.

The pastries at Jiahua Bakery on Fuxing Road, especially the flower cakes and Yunnan ham mini cakes, are super delicious.

You must try the grilled rushan (milk fan). Grilled and dipped in brown sugar, it’s sweet and sour with a lingering aftertaste. Although it’s a famous Dali snack, honestly, many outsiders aren’t used to it.

Also, pea jelly, er si (rice noodles), cold chicken rice noodles, wild mushroom hot pot—so many Yunnan snacks are waiting for you to check out!

3. About Souvenirs:

(1) If your friends like tea, consider Yunnan’s Pu’er, Xiaguan Tuo Tea, Dian Hong, etc.—they’re very famous.

(2) Nuodeng ham pastry, called ‘the lost delicacy on the tip of the tongue.’ Stuffed with ham, it’s sweet and salty, very tasty.

(3) A trip to Dali isn’t complete without trying flower cakes—light, soft, sweet, and super delicious. I recommend the Jiahua or Pan Xiangji brands.

(4) Dali tie-dye is a local handicraft, with clothing, accessories, ethnic-style scarves, bags, etc., full of local character.

4. Other tips:

(1) The UV rays in Yunnan are very strong. Bring enough sun protection (sunscreen with high SPF—preferably 30+, sunglasses, hats or scarves; for girls, moisturizing masks are a must).

(2) There’s a big temperature difference between day and night in Yunnan, so remember to bring a thick coat.

(3) Friends from low-lying areas may experience altitude sickness in Yunnan; remember to drink plenty of water.