Summer Chapter: A Journey to Dali and Lijiang – A Baptism of Wind, a Pursuit of Dreams

📍 Dali · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 66 likes

Let me quickly run through the essentials:

1. Sunscreen!!! This is huge—the Yunnan sun can actually sting your skin, so make sure it's SPF 50 or higher.

2. Long-sleeve shirts and long pants. The temperature difference between day and night in Dali and Lijiang is dramatic, so it's best to bring a backup warm layer.

3. An all-weather umbrella – you absolutely need one for shade. Rain in Dali and Lijiang comes fast and leaves just as quickly.

4. A straw hat – great for sun protection and photos. Don't do what I did and hope to buy one there; honestly, I didn't see any nice-looking ones around.

5. Sunglasses. Even though I barely used mine, they're still a sun-blocking essential.

6. A face mask. It was incredibly useful when riding a little electric scooter in Dali.

Chengdu – Kunming

We had a night flight, so all I could do was admire Kunming's evening lights on the way to our lodging. I didn't take any photos – here's a selfie instead, haha. (No picture here!)

Kunming – Dali

Not wanting to take the bus or train, we found a car online. The drive from Kunming to Dali took about five hours. If I could choose again, I'd fly directly from Chengdu to Dali, even if the only flights leave at 6 a.m.

Dali Old Town feels quite different from Lijiang Old Town. Lijiang is like a small village, while Dali is more like a walled city.

Headed to Erhai Lake, the distance from the old town to Majuyi Village is about ten-odd kilometers. Erhai is truly stunning – I finally understood the phrase "living in Dali." It's that kind of dreamy longing the poet Haizi had, "facing the sea, with spring blossoms." Here, the water is still, the sunlight warm, and the air sweet.

Riding an electric scooter further up, the whole way was scenery. Along the road I bought some fried potato—surprisingly delicious.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Dali – Lijiang

We booked a car the day before; the journey took about two hours. Arrived in Lijiang at night and pre-booked a one-day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain tour for the next day, then slept soundly. The next morning we headed out early. Our driver picked us up on time and provided down jackets and oxygen.

The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Grand Loop includes Dongba Valley, Jade Water Village, Ganhaizi, White Water River, Blue Moon Valley, and more. First, we headed straight for the Big Cableway: about 5 km west of the Ganhaizi Snow Mountain Lodge, we arrived at the lower station at the foot of the mountain—the starting point of the Big Cableway, amid dense primeval forest at an elevation of 3,356 meters. From here the cableway climbs to the upper station directly below the main peak Shanzidou at 4,506 meters. The cableway is 2,914 meters long with a vertical drop of 1,150 meters, one of China's highest tourist passenger ropeways. Many visitors flock to this cableway because it's the only one that reaches the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, so during peak season tickets are hard to come by.

Spruce Meadow and Yak Meadow are also access points via cableways on the mountain. There are three cableways in total: the Big Cableway goes the highest at 4,680 meters, up to the summit where you can see millennia-old glaciers. Yak Meadow has the middle cableway, and Spruce Meadow the small one at the lowest altitude, 3,200 meters. Each gives a different perspective on the mountain. Riding the big cableway up feels like a conquest—"the higher it is, the colder it gets." At such high altitudes, you need to be prepared with oxygen canisters and so on to prevent altitude sickness. Yak Meadow and Spruce Meadow offer better scenery and prettier photos, because you have the green forests and meadows on the mountain's slope as the foreground and the snow peak as the backdrop. Each has its own charm. No need to try all three; you can pick the Big Cableway plus one of the other two.

Blue Moon Valley gets its name because on clear days the water is a vivid blue and the valley is crescent-shaped, like a blue moon nestled at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The river flowing through the valley, obstructed by the mountain, forms four sizable pools: "Jade Liquid" Lake, "Mirror Pool" Lake, "Blue Moon" Lake, and "Listening to the Waves" Lake. The scenery here is gorgeous. I recommend getting off at Baishui Terrace and walking to Blue Moon Valley—the two spots are very close, and it's wonderful for photos. You can also walk or take the scenic area's electric cart to Blue Moon Valley.

When we came down from the mountain, there was still time, so we found a horse-riding club. The owner teaches you how to mount professionally and give commands to the horse (though I never quite got the hang of it). If you're keen on horse riding, give it a try.

On the way back, we visited Shuhe. This really is a place that nurtures people. I felt like the air here should be charged for – it's just that wonderful: blue skies, white clouds, birdsong, and fragrant flowers!

We stumbled upon a fantastic restaurant – the setting was superb, and I loved it at first glance. The flowers at the entrance delighted me, and there was a little brook full of moss yet with crystal-clear water. A singer performed inside with a beautiful, gentle voice. The food was delicious and reasonably priced. Many celebrities have dined here; it's hugely popular and has an excellent reputation!

Lugu Lake

At 8 a.m., our driver picked us up in Lijiang and we headed off; by 2 p.m. we arrived at Lugu Lake. The scenery was breathtaking. Our driver took us straight into a 360-degree tour around the lake.

During my days here, I kept thinking that Lugu Lake is not a place to leave in a hurry – it's the kind of place you don't want to leave once you arrive, and you'll find yourself thinking about it long after you've gone.

After the lake circuit, we went on to enjoy a bonfire evening.

Day 7: Lugu Lake – Lijiang

Watched the sunrise in the morning, then went boating. I adore Lugu Lake like this.

Travelogue Contents

1. Pre-trip Preparation

2. Dali

3. Erhai Lake

4. Shuanglang

5. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

6. Shuhe Ancient Town

7. Lugu Lake

8. End of Trip, Going Home