Self-driving Tour of Yunnan
The trip to Lugu Lake was driven by others; otherwise, I would have had no intention at all.
I always thought Lugu Lake was in Yunnan until just before departure, when I learned that Lugu Lake is actually shared between Sichuan and Yunnan, with Yunnan owning only about one-third of it.
Originally, I planned to fly round-trip to Lijiang and then drive to Lugu Lake, but due to the lack of suitable flights, I changed my plan to fly round-trip to Kunming and drive from there, taking the opportunity to revisit Dali and Lijiang along the way. Although it was still during the pandemic, flying from Shenzhen to Kunming was relatively convenient; I only needed to present my personal health code and green travel code. Of course, I encountered multiple temperature checks during the trip, but as long as my temperature was normal, I could travel without any issues.
I arrived in Kunming around 4 p.m. on May 12. After getting off the plane, I headed straight to the car rental point, picked up an X5, and drove directly to Shuanglang Town in Dali. The highway from Kunming to Dali is entirely expressway, but due to the many curves and few straight sections, the average speed could only reach about 80 km/h. I checked into the Haiqi Seaview Hotel in Shuanglang Town, Dali, and it was already 11 p.m. when I completed the check-in. The experience that night was not good. First, although the room was large, it lacked style. Second, I was awakened in the middle of the night by the sound of what seemed like an animal's claws scratching against the central air conditioning duct. After calling the hotel butler, I was moved to another room, but the strange noise persisted, only slightly softer, which severely affected my sleep quality that night. However, the hotel service was decent. Not only did they switch my room at night, but they also offered me a free stay when I checked out the next day, and presented me with Pu'er tea as a gift, which showed their sincere goodwill.
After leaving Dali, I chose to drive directly to Lugu Lake in Ninglang. The entire highway from Dali to Lijiang is expressway, but from Lijiang to Ninglang, it's almost entirely winding mountain roads, with the highest point reaching 3,000 meters above sea level. The most thrilling part of the journey was the Lining Eighteen Bends, which descends straight from the mountain top to the valley floor with a height difference of over a thousand meters. It is a narrow cliffside road that is both thrilling and dangerous to drive on. However, as the saying goes, 'Endless scenes of beauty are found in perilous peaks.' When I stood on the viewing platform of the Lining Eighteen Bends and looked into the distance, the magnificent and grand scenery before my eyes left me deeply awestruck, and I felt that the risk of crossing the Lining Eighteen Bends was well worth it.
The 'Sky Mirror' on the Lining Highway is located at the highest point, a leisure platform at an altitude of 3,000 meters. The sky above is blue with white clouds, surrounded by mountains, and in the distance, the snow-capped peaks stand majestically. It is indeed an excellent spot for relaxation, sightseeing, and photography. Nowadays, many scenic spots have 'Sky Mirrors,' but I found that they are almost exclusively designed for women. Of course, this is because women are naturally fond of beauty, love to strike various poses for photos, and showcase their graceful charm. What about men? Could they also don a white robe, hold a feather fan or a long sword, and display their elegant and refined demeanor?
The distance from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is not far, only about 200 kilometers, but since almost the entire route is winding mountain roads, the speed cannot be high, averaging about 50 km/h. Lugu Lake sits at an altitude of approximately 2,600 meters. When I entered the Lugu Lake scenic area gate and drove down the winding mountain road toward the lake, the azure blue water suddenly appeared before my eyes—stunningly beautiful, so captivating that I wished I could stop the car immediately and gaze at it for a long time.
Daluoshui Village is right by the lake. The Yanzuo Lakeview Inn is built along the lake, allowing you to enjoy the lake and mountain scenery from your room. Step outside to the lakeside, and you can play in the water. The lake water is cool, clear, and transparent. The lake surface ripples gently, and the bright sunlight projects onto the water, reflecting into a shimmering expanse of sparkling waves, like countless stars—gorgeously beautiful! Strolling along the lakeside with a gentle breeze on my face, I felt far away from the mundane world, peaceful and serene.
Lige Island lies at the foot of Goddess Mountain. Though called an island, it is more like a narrow short pier extending into the lake. 'Dear Inn' is located on Lige Island, which became widely known due to the Hunan TV show 'Dear Inn.' There is a viewing platform on Lige Island that offers an excellent vantage point for panoramic photos of Lugu Lake. The best times for taking photos are early morning and evening, when the water and sky merge into one, filling the frame with deep blue—a breathtaking sight. There are many distinctive inns on Lige Island. The Liuyue-Lehaiju where I stayed is not directly on the lake, but it has its own character, giving a sense of retreating into a small, self-contained world. It is also a good spot for taking popular photos.
The circumference of Lugu Lake is about 70 kilometers. If you want to savor it in detail, three to five days may not be enough, but if you just skim through, one day is sufficient. Every spot around Lugu Lake offers scenery, each with its own charm. However, the most essential highlights include Daluoshui Village, Lovers' Beach, Lige Island, Goddess Mountain, Yang'erchenamu Museum, Lugu Lake Town, Goddess Bay, Grass Sea, and the Walking Marriage Bridge. Standing at Goddess Bay and looking into the distance at Goddess Mountain, the mountain above the lake resembles a long-haired woman lying on her back, gazing at the starry sky as if searching for her own star. Boating through the Grass Sea, the clear lake water reveals swaying aquatic plants, delicate small white flowers drift on the surface, and occasionally, startled migratory birds suddenly take off nearby and quickly disappear into the distant reeds, reminding me of childhood joys. The Walking Marriage is a traditional custom of the Mosuo people, but it is no longer practiced today, and the Walking Marriage Bridge is merely a symbol. In one day and two nights, I spent less than 40 hours at Lugu Lake, but it was enough to fully appreciate the lake, mountains, and plateau scenery. Although the round trip from Lijiang took nearly eight hours, the scenery along the way certainly did not disappoint those eight hours.
I visited Lijiang many years ago but did not go up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Due to altitude sickness, I had no plan to climb it this time either, but I did want to see it up close. As I gradually approached Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I realized it rises abruptly from the plain, making it appear especially towering and majestic. The pure white snow shone brilliantly under the sunlight, and I could freely photograph it from different angles, capturing its majestic grandeur without any obstruction.
Blue Moon Valley is at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It consists of a series of lakes cascading down the valley in a stepped formation. The lake water is a milky blue-white, as if a lake of milk had been tinted with blue ink by a group of mischievous children—a truly beautiful sight. The area around Blue Moon Valley is rich in diverse vegetation, with various fruits hanging within reach. Pinecones are large and varied in shape, making me imagine how happy the squirrels here must be.
Back in Lijiang, I chose to stay at the Shanyi Art Residence in the ancient town. Cars are not allowed inside the ancient town, so I had to park at the South Gate parking lot. Fortunately, the residence sent someone to pick me up, so it was convenient. Entering the ancient town, I had to show my health code as usual, which I passed without any issue. The Shanyi Art Residence is not large, nor is it particularly artistic, but the room was quiet, tidy, and clean. In the morning, during the pandemic, there were few tourists on the streets of Lijiang, and not many shops were open. This allowed me to stroll leisurely through the town. Everywhere, along the streets and alleys, a wide variety of flowers were in full bloom, their colors so vivid that I suspected several times whether they were real. Touching them confirmed they were indeed real flowers. Wandering leisurely through Dayan Ancient Town, I unintentionally found myself deep among succulents. By the side of a babbling brook and under the eaves, succulents grew everywhere. Though their species were numerous and colors and shapes quite similar, they had been carefully cultivated and arranged by their owners, making them look colorful and picturesque, so much so that I couldn't help but linger. Due to time constraints, I didn't stay long in Lijiang. Around noon, I stopped at a small eatery near the Mu Mansion, had a cold drink and a couple of snacks, then drove to Dali Ancient Town.
Readers who enjoy Jin Yong's martial arts novels should be familiar with Dali. The womanizing Prince Duan might be the dream of many men, while his dashing son, Duan Yu, would be the dream lover of many young girls. 'Wind of Xiaguan, flowers of Shangguan, snow of Cangshan, and moon of Erhai'—these twelve words vividly summarize the wind, flowers, snow, and moon of Dali. It is precisely these that attract countless travelers. I don't particularly care for wind, flowers, snow, and moon, but I do admire the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. The three pagodas of Chongsheng Temple were first built during the reign of King Quanfengyou of Nanzhao (824–859 AD). The large pagoda, 'Qianxun Pagoda,' was built first, standing 69.13 meters tall, a 16-story square brick pagoda with dense eaves. Later, the smaller southern and northern pagodas were built, each 42.19 meters tall, a pair of octagonal brick pagodas with 10 stories. After that, the grand Chongsheng Temple was constructed. I visited the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple over a decade ago. At that time, the tour guide said that the smaller southern and northern pagodas were built in the Han Dynasty and were slender, while the central large pagoda was built in the Tang Dynasty and was plump. Since the Han Dynasty considered slenderness beautiful and the Tang Dynasty considered plumpness beautiful, the architectural forms reflected the aesthetic standards of 'Yanshou Huanfei' (Zhao Feiyan being slender and Yang Yuhuan being plump). I had believed this guide's explanation until I checked historical records, which show this is incorrect. I am not a religious person and don't particularly believe in religion. The reason I admire the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple is that I work in the construction industry. The pagodas are ideally located against Cangshan Mountain and facing Erhai Lake, with their multi-courtyard layout, magnificent architectural structure, and the perfect integration of the three pagodas with Chongsheng Temple, all of which fill me with admiration.
Dali No.1 Courtyard was the last hotel I stayed at during this Yunnan trip. It is said that singer Wang Fei always stays here when she visits Dali. I am not Wang Fei, of course, but I thought that if it was Wang Fei's choice, the environment and conditions must be good. Dali No.1 Courtyard is located at a corner of Dali Ancient Town, in an excellent location. Especially when I stood on the balcony of the bathroom, overlooking Cangshan Mountain in the distance and the ancient town below, I felt completely relaxed and happy. The bathroom was clean and bright. I drew the sheer curtains, filled the bathtub with warm water, and half-reclined in it. Through the bright high window, the beautiful scenery of Cangshan Mountain came into view, instantly relieving my fatigue—a very comfortable experience. As it was still during the pandemic, Dali Ancient Town had few tourists, a rare quietness devoid of the usual hustle and bustle. Strolling leisurely through the town, I felt exceptionally happy, even thinking, 'I could stay forever as a guest in Dali.'
On May 17, I bid farewell to Dali, drove straight to Kunming Airport, and took the evening flight back to Shenzhen, ending my six-day Yunnan trip.
