July 2020: A 8-Day Family Trip to Colorful Yunnan (Dali, Lijiang, Lugu Lake)

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July 2020, a family trip to colorful Yunnan—Dali, Lijiang, Lugu Lake

Colorful Yunnan, the direction of my heart;

The peacock flies away, memories linger;

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain glistens with silver light;

Charming Lijiang, people on the road;

Colorful Yunnan, the place to return;

Past fragrance, drifting with the wind;

By the Butterfly Spring, songs are flowing;

By the Lugu Lake, the heart still ripples.

Whenever this melodious song plays, my wife and daughter and I turn our eyes to beautiful Yunnan. From July 3 to 10, over 8 days, we measured Dali, Lijiang, and Lugu Lake with wheels and footsteps, admiring Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moon, climbing Lijiang's Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, driving around Lugu Lake, exploring the colorful clouds of Yunnan and the peacock dance in the hometown of peacocks.

During the journey, my wife, with a photographer's eye, captured the natural scenery and historical culture, recording our family's tranquil moments; by Erhai Lake, in Shuhe Old Town, and in guesthouses by Lugu Lake, our 10-year-old daughter tried to depict the beautiful Yunnan in her eyes, completing "Colorful Yunnan: Daughter's Chapter"; back in Wuhan, I sorted through travel diaries against photos, completing "Colorful Yunnan: Father's Chapter".

Colorful Yunnan: Daughter's Chapter (by Diandian, age 10)

Wind, flowers, snow, and moon are the best features of Dali: Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon.

My parents and I flew to Dali and drove to Sea Sky Love.

This guesthouse is very distinctive both in exterior and interior. Entering the room, what attracted me most was the cozy little terrace: a round table with two chairs was very warm, surrounded by a small pond with about ten red goldfish swimming around, very unique. The railing was a low glass panel; looking toward Erhai from there, the sea was blue, with white clouds in the azure sky. Looking to the sides, the magnificent Cangshan Mountain surrounded Erhai like a barrier—so spectacular!

[View of Erhai from the hotel room terrace]

[Little terrace of the room, fish swimming in the clear water]

Later, we had dinner at Duan Gongzi Restaurant in Dali Old Town. The interior design was very distinctive: ink paintings and calligraphy hung on the walls, and a guzheng was placed by the stairs, full of charm.

[Guzheng at Duan Gongzi Restaurant]

Early the next morning, we started our self-driving tour around Erhai.

Along the road around Erhai, we saw various sceneries. The view was so amazing that it inspired a poem:

Though Xiaguan wind of Dali unseen, I saw Xiaguan flowers of Dali.

Before me is Cangshan snow, at night I'll enjoy Erhai moon.

Driving along the road, we arrived at the foot of Cangshan Mountain. Another poem:

Xiaguan wind howls, Shangguan flowers smile.

Distant Cangshan is lush green, near Erhai water is clear.

On the road around Erhai, we entered Butterfly Spring Scenic Area. Upon entering, there were five dragon heads, the middle one the largest, the two next to it medium, and the two on the sides the smallest, each spouting a clear spring from its mouth. Walking along the path, there was a pool called "Butterfly Spring." The water was emerald green, like a piece of jade quietly placed there. A tall tree stood in the spring, with all trunks and roots clearly visible. A poem:

Butterfly Spring water green, all tree roots clear.

Dragons spout clear spring, washing hands brings good luck.

After the rain cleared, we continued driving around Erhai. Passing through Shuanglang Town, we reached the highest point on the east line of Erhai, where there were various photo props: a transparent "Sky Chair," a suspended "Sky Ring," a "Sky Ladder" to the sky, a "Sky Mirror" reflecting the sky, and a tilted square "Sky Frame."

I used every trendy photo prop: sat on the Sky Chair, put my feet up, let my hair hang down, grabbed the frame; sat on the Sky Ring, let my feet dangle, hands on the ring, looking into the distance; climbed the Sky Ladder, sat on the edge, feet hanging, gazing at the sky; stood on the Sky Mirror, doing difficult moves like splits, handstands with splits, leg raises; entered the Sky Frame, pulled the rectangle's length, stepped on the width, leaned back slightly—the tilted frame gave an artistic feel.

[Sky Mirror]

[Sky Frame]

[Sky Chair]

[Sky Ladder]

As it grew dark, we returned to the guesthouse. Sitting on the small terrace, listening to the sea breeze, eating barbecue—so cozy!

[Sea Sky Love, my favorite little terrace]

Before leaving Dali, we drove to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. Behind the pagodas were several temples; I browsed through the Buddha statues quickly.

Then we came to the lake in front of the Three Pagodas, where the pagodas were reflected. We rented a Bai ethnic costume by the lake. Look at its description:

Tall hat with a white circle, red flowers on top so bright.

Tassels on the hat on the shoulder, a circle of gold shining below.

Red collar with gold edge sparkling, red flowers on the garment welcoming spring.

White sleeves and red clothes so pure, gold edges on sleeves a must.

Gold-edged red scarf fluttering in the wind, gold and red beads on sleeves.

Garment edge shiny gold, golden stripes embroidered.

Red base more vivid, blue, red, purple, green little jewels.

White skirt so beautiful, red and yellow edges shining bright.

Dali is so beautiful, but we must leave eventually. Today, I'm going to Lijiang. Dali! I will come again!

—Diandian started writing by Erhai Lake on July 3, 2020, finished on July 5 in Shuhe Old Town, Lijiang.

[Me in ethnic costume in front of the Three Pagodas]

At noon, my parents and I drove from Dali Old Town to Lijiang. Near Lijiang, at Lashihai, there are many horse farms, and the Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm is the most distinctive. Riding horses on the Ancient Tea Horse Road in the mountains was unforgettable: the groom led three sturdy horses—one black, two brown. The three of us mounted, stepped on the stirrups, and set off with the sound of hooves.

I rode on the winding mountain path, enjoying the scenery. The trees nearby were lush, the distant mountains majestic. A poem:

Riding on the mountain path, trees green and lush.

Distant mountains grand, white clouds at the horizon.

On horseback, I felt the mountain breeze, very pleasant.

The groom kindly taught me riding skills, making me ride more gracefully: lean forward uphill, lean back downhill. Unity of man and horse, what joy! Riding on the Ancient Tea Horse Road with the jingling of bells, my thoughts drifted far away…

[Ancient Tea Horse Road]

After riding, we visited the Pink Capital at the horse farm, where everything was pink. Taking photos there was interesting but not my style.

[Pink Empire]

Leaving the Ancient Road, we headed to Shuhe Old Town and checked into Lishiman Guesthouse. The inn was very distinctive: a small bridge over flowing water at the entrance, spring blossoms in the courtyard, and antique-style rooms.

[Balcony of Lishiman Inn (Lijiang Art Club) room in Shuhe Old Town]

The next day, we drove to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area. Along the way, we could clearly see the snow-capped mountain towering into the clouds—very spectacular!

Entering the scenic area, we took the shuttle bus to the lower cable car station of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. We put on jackets and entered the cable car, ascending rapidly. The view changed from lush forests to perennial snow—so magical! From the upper cable car station at 4506 meters, I continued climbing along the snow mountain boardwalk. At first, I could only see the snow mountain in mist and a little snow. Higher up, the wind grew stronger; I quickly put on my hat. We climbed against the wind, seeing more and more snow—the never-melting glaciers. The entire mountain was white, refreshing my mind! I finally reached the highest observation deck at 4680 meters. Though out of breath, I felt a great sense of achievement! Looking down from the top, the mountain was magnificent! A poem:

Snow mountain boardwalk steep, scenery on both sides.

Snow piles on the mountain, clouds surround the peaks.

[Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Cable Car]

[Jade Dragon appearing and disappearing]

[Climbing memorial photo]

[Reaching the 4680m highest observation deck on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain]

Our family was so excited that we took off our jackets and stood in short sleeves in front of the sign reading "4680" for a group photo.

After descending, we had lunch at KFC, then walked to the highest outdoor theater—the Impression Lijiang live performance venue.

Entering the theater, it was magnificent:

Large red wall in front, big dance floor below.

Look up to blue sky, turn to see snow.

The "Impression Lijiang" performance lasted an hour, leaving me spellbound. A poem:

All ethnic groups gathered, Han, Zhuang, Naxi.

Miao, Tibetan, Yi, multiple dances on one stage.

Horsemen galloping on the wall, black and brown horses.

Running on the red wall so graceful, all groups come to dance.

Drinking, singing, beating big drums, hard work on stage.

Every performance wonderful, shining on stage!

[Impression Lijiang]

After the show, we took the shuttle bus to Blue Moon Valley.

Upon arriving at Blue Moon Valley, a blue lake came into view—a sapphire among emeralds! Approaching, the water was incredibly clear! This beautiful lake comes from the White Water River, named because during rain, the water turns milky white due to a lime-like powder at the bottom. When it rains, the powder disperses evenly, turning the water white.

Leaving Blue Moon Valley, we returned to the old town and had dinner at a restaurant called "Little Pot Rice" (Xiaoguofan). We sat by the window overlooking the old town's streets, rivers, and willows—a lovely scene. After dinner, I walked around Shuhe Old Town, enjoying the cool breeze and the setting sun. We bought a set of ethnic costumes. A poem:

Red and yellow collar so neat, a row of slanting buttons.

Black base, embroidered red flowers most beautiful.

Magenta three-quarter sleeves, red flowers on blue background.

Red flowers with gold above and below, black base underneath.

Several red flowers on sleeves, green leaves to match.

Purple flowers and green leaves on the garment, a small pink edge.

Magenta short skirt, patches of green, yellow, red, orange.

Green-purple-yellow-green-purple, each patch with five small pom-poms.

Bells under pom-poms jingle, jingle jangle.

Blue edge at the bottom, embroidered with red flowers, so beautiful!

On the third morning, the first sunlight shone on the old town. On the quiet stone-paved road stood a girl from Wuhan wearing ethnic costume. She reluctantly bid farewell to the old town and Lijiang…

—Diandian started writing on July 5, 2020 in Shuhe Old Town, finished on July 7 by Lugu Lake.

[Shuhe Old Town in the early morning]

My parents and I drove from Lijiang to Lugu Lake. The road was winding, passing the world-famous Jinsha River, the upper reaches of the Yangtze River in China, flowing through Sichuan, Tibet, and Yunnan, with a basin area of 502,000 square kilometers. Watching the yellow waves of the Jinsha River, I imagined the scene in 1953 when the Central Red Army crossed the river.

Enjoying the magnificent scenery and listening to the wind, we soon arrived at the Lugu Lake Scenic Area. Upon entering, from the mountain, a vast shimmering lake came into view. If not for my parents saying we should go to the hotel first, I would have run to the lake to enjoy its beauty. Fortunately, we quickly checked into Shilili·Fanmiyue·Xiaozhu Mosuo and headed to Luoshui Pier. We walked to the lakeside, the water crystal clear. Then we bought tickets and boarded a boat.

The boatman rowed, and we set off. Near the shore, the water was so clear we could see the stones at the bottom. Sitting at the bow, I looked far away: mountains surrounded Lugu Lake, and the lake reflected the blue sky, white clouds, and mountains. Looking down, the water was truly green—emerald green where shallow, dark green where deep.

When the boat reached the middle of the lake, we circled Liwu Bi Island. On the west side, the island looked like a giant crocodile. On the north side, the mountains in Sichuan resembled a turtle. After circling the island, we returned along the same route to Luoshui Pier.

[On the pig trough boat]

We walked along the lake to a restaurant called "Mosuo Flame BBQ" for dinner. We could grill ourselves; the owner kindly gave us tips: grill tofu longer until it sizzles on one side, then flip; grill pork belly until slightly crispy on both sides; grill Mosuo meat until red and crispy. The most impressive was grilled eggplant: first slash it lightly, peel the skin to reveal yellow flesh, put it on the grill, add toppings, and wait a bit before eating.

After the BBQ, we returned to the inn to rest.

The next morning, we started our lake tour. Starting from Daluoshui Village, the scenery was beautiful along the way: Yunnan's Lige Peninsula, Sichuan's Lover's Beach, Caohai (Grass Sea), etc. The most impressive were Lover's Beach and Caohai.

My mother and I climbed onto the tire on the left rear of the car, grabbed the roof rack, sat down, and posed nicely. Looking from the roof to the lake, it was stunning!

Continuing, we reached Caohai. Caohai is not a sea but a vast expanse of grass, like a sea—a green ocean.

After completing the loop, we didn't record the distance, so we circled again. This year, I entered Sichuan twice!

[Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

[Lige Peninsula]

[Sichuan Libai Lover's Beach]

[Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

After the lake tour, we returned to the hotel, sat on the small balcony, ate BBQ—so comfortable!

The next day was the last day of our trip. We walked along the lake to the southern beach of Lugu Lake. There I practiced skipping stones. At first, my stone went plop. Then Dad told me to find flat, thin stones and throw fast. Following his advice, I improved; now I could skip once out of ten tries. We continued walking around the lake and returned to the inn.

Tomorrow, I will leave Yunnan and return to my hometown, Wuhan.

—Diandian, written by Lugu Lake from July 7 to 9, 2020.

Colorful Yunnan: Father's Chapter (by Diandian's Dad)

Day01: 2020/7/3 — Colorful Yunnan (Sea Sky Love + Dali Old Town)

At 4:00 PM, flight MU9736 from Wuhan to Dali slowly landed on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, officially starting our Yunnan trip. Dali, the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty and the Dali Kingdom in the Song Dynasty, has a long history and brilliant culture. Jin Yong's martial arts novels added a mysterious and magical aura to Dali. We came to Dali, land of wind, flowers, snow, and moon.

Driving from the airport along the west road of Erhai, we headed to "Sea Sky Love" by the lake. Through the car window, my daughter curiously looked around: on the left, mist-wrapped Cangshan Mountain stood like a natural barrier, majestic; on the right, the vast Erhai Lake was like a giant jade held by mountains, shining; the sky stretched from Cangshan to Erhai, from west to east, from deep to light, from dark to bright, from heavy to clear.

After about 30 minutes, we turned from the west road into a village road. Every household had running water and flowers, everywhere was full of greenery and flowing water. The villages by Erhai were peaceful and beautiful, the guesthouses by the lake had wide views and beautiful scenery. "Sea Sky Love" was the most culturally flavored and lifestyle-oriented one. After checking in, we entered Room 303, a sea-view room with a cozy big bed under sheer curtains, a uniquely shaped hot spring bathtub, and large floor-to-ceiling windows extending our view to the terrace and Erhai. Above Erhai, auspicious clouds were reflected in the water; the rain-washed blue sky matched the sea color. My daughter rushed to the terrace. The wooden terrace was surrounded by flowers and fish swimming in a small pond. Lying on a lounge chair on the terrace, everything in sight was sparkling water and sky meeting—truly a sea sky love; the flower bed on the terrace was so red and lovely—a garden sea view.

The evening sunlight caressed Erhai and the mountains, soft light and beautiful scenery invited my daughter and wife to take photos on the terrace. I walked around the hotel. The second-floor book bar had thick English books on shelves; the first floor had a tea room and dining bar, offering free fruit, yogurt, and tea to guests. In front of the hotel was a walking path along the sea. Blowing the sea breeze, walking along, humming the song "Going to Dali" from the movie "Heart Blossom," I became a middle-aged artist. Among the inns on the west road of Erhai, "Sea Sky Love" creatively connected the room with the lake and sky through the terrace, without any obstruction, not even a piece of glass. Later, I learned that the hotel owners were returned students from the US, and the design was by an American California designer.

[Terrace of Room 303 at Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel (Erhai Flagship)]

[Sea Sky Love, infinite scenery]

[Sea Sky Love Book Bar]

[Sea Sky Love Tea Room]

Sea Sky Love is not far from Dali Old Town. Dali Duan Gongzi Tianlong Babu Characteristic Experience Restaurant is in the old town, famous online. We drove ten minutes to the old town. To my surprise, cars could drive on the stone pavement through the crowd. Under the setting sun, Dali Old Town looked antique. Shops lined the streets but without too much noise; I enjoyed the tranquility. I parked at Duan Gongzi; my wife and daughter were already waiting at the entrance. Even during the tourism recovery period, many diners were waiting, including us. While waiting, my wife and daughter took photos with the "Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils" theme, showing martial arts情怀.

The wait was short. The hostess led us to the second floor. The restaurant was decorated with guzheng and pipa, and the tables with writing brushes and fans. If you think dining here is just for nostalgia, you are wrong. Try Duan's Hidden Dragon Jumping Water Fish, Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken, and "Water-natured Flowers" (a local vegetable), sip Paoluda (a sweet drink), Huwei Tea, and Rose Ferment—taste buds stimulated, mood cultivated.

Duan's Hidden Dragon Jumping Water Fish: The final step was done right before us; hot stones and Erhai fish were put into the prepared broth. Sizzling! The broth boiled, aroma filled the air, the fish was tender and smooth, the broth sour and spicy. Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken: generous portion, tender meat, fully infused with Sichuan pepper fragrance, one bite after another. Paoluda was sweet, Huwei Tea lingered on the tongue, Rose Ferment intoxicated the heart!

[Red-clad heroine at Duan Gongzi]

[Menu at Duan Gongzi]

[Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken at Duan Gongzi]

[Duan's Hidden Dragon Jumping Water Fish at Duan Gongzi]

[Paoluda at Duan Gongzi]

After dinner, we strolled along the old town streets. The full moon hung high in the sky, sometimes shyly hiding in clouds, sometimes boldly hanging. My daughter excitedly recited the text "Walking under the Moon" she learned: "The moon rises! It rises from Erhai. Was it washed in Erhai? The moon disc is so bright, the moonlight so gentle, lighting up the high Diancang Mountain, lighting up the big green tree at the village head, also lighting up the avenues and paths between villages…"

That bright moon must have risen from Erhai too! We returned to the small terrace of Sea Sky Love, watching the white jade plate in the sky and the Erhai moon in the water.

Our family, Friday, July 3, 2020

Room 303, Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel, Dali City, Yunnan Province

Day02: 2020/7/4 — Colorful Yunnan (Around Erhai + Butterfly Spring)

I don't know when Dali became one of the most favored places for backpackers. Is it because it's the legendary "Peach Blossom Spring," or because of the movie "Heart Blossom," or Dali's own legend of "wind, flowers, snow, and moon"? Anyway, a distraction-free drive around Erhai, embracing this flawless jade among mountains, is indeed a rare experience.

After enjoying the exquisite breakfast at Sea Sky Love, our family of three set off to drive around Erhai, a total of 130 km. Along the coastline, we followed the route: Sea Sky Love → Tongsheng Park (SheShe) → Xizhou Old Town → Butterfly Spring → Shuanglang → Wase → Xiaoputuo → Haidong Town → Dali Old Town → Sea Sky Love.

[Breakfast at Sea Sky Love]

Driving on the west road of Erhai, Cangshan Mountain on the left was covered with clouds and mist. The snow of Cangshan was not visible, so we turned our eyes to Erhai on the right, a beautiful plateau lake, narrow from north to south, the clean transparent surface like a blue sea, the same color as the sky.

After 20 km, we arrived at Tongsheng Park, which narrows into Erhai like a tongue, hence the name. It was closed due to construction, but its periphery was still picturesque. Green willows lined the shore, the lake surface shimmered. A light rain suddenly came, creating circles of shy ripples on the lake. In the rain, we unknowingly reached the deepest part of Erhai.

[Tongsheng Park]

Xizhou Old Town is 18 km north of Dali Old Town, not far from SheShe, east of Erhai and west of Cangshan. We drove on the stone roads of the old town in the drizzling rain. It has the most and best-preserved Bai ethnic residential buildings. These buildings are roughly in forms of "two rooms with one ear," "three rooms with one screen wall," "four courtyards and five sky wells," and "six harmonies in spring." The buildings have carved beams and painted rafters, overlapping brackets, upturned eaves, magnificent. The door towers, screen walls, and gable walls are colorfully decorated, fully reflecting the architectural talent and artistic creativity of the Bai people. Xizhou Old Town, with lingering charm and profound culture, quietly hides into the depths of time under the fine rain.

Leaving the old town, we drove north along the west line of Erhai to Butterfly Spring. The weather turned bad; rain grew heavier. The vehicle started slipping. I carefully drove the Tiguan to the parking lot. Rain blurred the windows. I called XX Car Rental to request a replacement of the same class (newer car, new tires, delivered ASAP). The rental company immediately sent a staff to deliver the car. Instead of waiting anxiously, we decided to adjust the plan and go to a nearby restaurant, "Taoyuan Renjia" (Peach Blossom People) at Peach Blossom Pier for lunch. It was truly "peach and plum trees do not speak, yet a path is worn beneath them." Inside the courtyard, peach and plum trees were abundant, grapevines shaded the sky. We sat at a stone table in the garden yard, tasting small fish and shrimp from Erhai, eating cured meat and potato rice, with a unique flavor.

[Stone table at Taoyuan Renjia]

[Swing at Taoyuan Renjia]

After we filled our stomachs, the sun coincidentally emerged from the post-rain clouds, shining on Butterfly Spring at the foot of Yunlong Peak of Cangshan Mountain in Dali. We took the scenic sightseeing car up to the Five Dragons Spouting Water pool. Spring water spurted from the mouths of five dragon heads—scooping some to wash hands brings good luck; sipping a mouthful refreshes the spirit. The spring flows into a square pool called "Butterfly Spring." The water is deep yet clear. A tall ancient tree lies across the spring, the "Butterfly Tree," its reflection in the clear mirror-like water. Although we missed the spectacular sight of thousands of colorful butterflies gathering at the spring, flying all over, hanging upside down on trees, and reaching the water, the three characters "Butterfly Spring" handwritten by Guo Moruo in 1961 are engraved on the stone at the spring's edge, still making us imagine.

Butterfly Spring, like a transparent gem set in the greenery, attracts visitors from near and far with its unique wonder.

Going down the steps is Lover's Lake. Ducks float on green water, fish swim at the bottom, fountains dance, blue sky and white clouds reflect in the lake. Before we could get close, the XX Car Rental staff called, saying he had arrived at the parking lot. We walked down, exited the scenic area, and arrived at the parking lot. A nearly new Baowo BX7 was parked next to the muddy Tiguan. We smoothly completed the car swap. The new car had new tires, large wheels, clean body, leather interior, panoramic sunroof, one-button start, front and rear cameras with radar, side mirror collision alerts, electric seats, electric trunk, Bluetooth infotainment—everything. Truly, after the rain cleared, our mood was excellent. The rental company's efficiency made me a more loyal fan.

Driving the refreshed vehicle, we continued around the lake. Next stop: Shuanglang Town. It faces the blue waves of Erhai and overlooks the 19 peaks of Cangshan, gathering the essence of Cang'er scenery. It is known as "Dali's scenery is in Cang'er, Cang'er's scenery is in Shuanglang." Indeed, it has the best sea-view scenery in Dali. The Erhai divine light with the continuous Cangshan as background, many photography enthusiasts can capture spectacular photos here. The water and sky are the same color, the mountains layered with green, the lake and mountain light reflecting each other. Golden shuttle weaving, double islands and double curves, paired with the ancient, elegant, and richly flavored Bai ethnic town. Every step a scenery, every glance a view. We stopped and went along the way, seeing couples taking wedding photos, and some people posing excessively. Maybe it's the uncontrollable emotion and self-expression under such beautiful scenery.

At a viewing platform not far from Nanzhao Fengqing Island, it's the commanding height of the east line of Erhai, with the best view! We parked and saw a wide highland with paid photo props: transparent "Sky Chair," suspended "Sky Ring," "Sky Ladder" to the sky, "Sky Mirror" reflecting the sky, and a tilted square "Sky Frame." We paid 40 yuan for three to enter. Our daughter immediately started to let herself go.

She used every trendy photo prop: sat on the Sky Chair, legs upside down touching the sky, black hair hanging down, frozen between sky and sea, in front of Cangshan; sat on the Sky Ring, feet naturally hanging, hands lightly holding the ring, eyes on Erhai and Cangshan, eternal; climbed the Sky Ladder, sat quietly on the ladder, jade feet hanging in the sky, facing the wind of Erhai, accompanied by the clouds of Cangshan, releasing youthful energy; stood on the Sky Mirror, as high as the sky, as deep as the sea, friends with clouds, companions with fish—at this moment, Erhai and Cangshan accompanied our daughter in light dance, riding clouds and mist, dragon roar and tiger cry…

[Sky Ring]

[Sky Mirror]

Driving 10 km south along the east bank of the sea was Wase Town. The Wase water road is submerged at high tide during sunset. Nearby Xiaoputuo had a few seagulls flying. My wife found an old Bai woman to braid colorful ribbons into our daughter's hair, making the ten-year-old girl even more radiant.

[Wase and Xiaoputuo]

When we left Wase Town, planning to complete the last 50 km of the lake drive without stop, the sky finally shed tears of reluctance, crying harder. Raindrops fell on the sunroof, prompting our daughter to recite a poem: "Though Xiaguan wind of Dali unseen, I saw Shangguan flowers of Dali. Before me is Cangshan snow, at night I'll enjoy Erhai moon."

In the evening, we successfully completed the 136 km self-driving around the lake. Sitting on the small terrace of our room, we ate delicious BBQ from "Fish Bai Ethnic Farmhouse Cuisine." I looked at the deep lake water and dim sky at dusk, my thoughts flying like rain silk on the sea.

We were fortunate to travel as a family around Erhai in the summer of the Gengzi year, looking into the distance at Cangshan and close at Erhai. When we come to the love city Dali next time, we will certainly enjoy Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moon again.

As the book says:

"Wind, flowers, snow, and moon" are the four great sceneries of Dali: Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon.

Wind: Xiaguan is a mountain pass, the main wind source between Cangshan and Erhai. Walking on the streets of Xiaguan, the wind blows the clothes, a scene of dynamism and elegance.

Flowers: Shangguan is a vast grassland with flowers blooming everywhere, colorful, called "Shangguan flowers."

Snow: The 19 peaks of Cangshan are capped with snow all year round, silver-clad, called "Cangshan snow."

Moon: On a calm and clear night, by Erhai, a jade mirror hangs in the sky, a bright moon in the water drifts with the waves—the Erhai moonlight is awe-inspiring.

Our family, Saturday, July 4, 2020

Room 303, Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel, Dali City, Yunnan Province

[Glimpse of Erhai]

[Erhai sunset]

[Record of circling Erhai: 136 km]

Day03: 2020/7/5 — Colorful Yunnan (Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas & Lashihai Ancient Tea Horse Road)

Some landscapes are always encountered unintentionally, even touched unintentionally. This fate adds much color to an otherwise ordinary journey.

Today's itinerary was to leave Dali for Lijiang. We only wanted to visit a random attraction before departure. Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas came into view because it's close to Sea Sky Love. After the sun was high, we had breakfast, checked out, and took the fruit and yogurt gifted by Sea Sky Love. We drove about 10 minutes to the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas Cultural Tourism Area. The Three Pagodas are located at the northern outskirts of Dali Old Town, at the foot of Cangshan Mountain, integrating Cang'er scenery, cultural relics, Buddhist culture, and leisure vacation.

We respected the temple and Buddha statues, not daring to profane or approach closely. We took an electric car halfway up the mountain. Although we couldn't climb the Wanghai Tower (under maintenance), we stood on Cangshan stone, overlooking Erhai water—the magnificent view was all in sight, heroic feelings filled our hearts. Descending the steps, we passed Guanyin Pavilion, Mahavira Hall, Guanyin Hall, Maitreya Hall, and Heavenly King Hall. Mother bowed to Buddha and made wishes; you followed. My wife prayed piously, while our mischievous daughter followed playfully.

[Overlooking Erhai from Guanyin Hall]

Walking down the stone steps guarded by pines, we felt the historical legacy of this famous royal temple of Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple were built in the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, flourished in the Song Dynasty, and are famous for the three pagodas, the Jianji Giant Bell, the Rain and Bronze Guanyin Statue, the "Buddha Capital" plaque, and the Three Saints Gold Statues. Nine Dali kingdom emperors became monks and practiced here.

We turned from the grand stone steps to a quiet path. The roadside moss was green like dyed, the garden was shaded by green trees, cool and refreshing, with oriole singing and birds chirping. Unintentionally, we strolled to the Juying Pool beside the Jianji Giant Bell, where the three pagodas were reflected. The pagodas on the mountain and in the water complemented each other, forming a tripod pattern, unified layout, harmonious shape, integrated whole. We forgot the white dwellings' couplets and screen walls, the Dali stone stele pavilions with poems and inscriptions, the Yangbo Pavilion with shadows swaying in water, the various exotic flowers like camellias, magnolias, and rhododendrons. We couldn't help but stare at the three pagodas in the water; the blue sky and clouds caressed the pool water, bathing in it.

The pool water was emerald green like jade, crystal clear, no waves, flat as a mirror, with clear reflections. My wife chose a Bai ethnic costume for our daughter and took photos in front of the pool reflecting the three pagodas. A poem: "Red flower jacket with gold trim, white clouds around the skirt, pool water clear. Gauze gently dancing, gold rising, three pagodas reflected, jade girl serene." Our daughter, dressed in Bai costume, added radiance to the pagodas, becoming the most beautiful scene. My wife was delighted, lingering. I looked back at Cangshan, imagining under clear sky, the snow of Cangshan and the three pagodas reflected in the lake—what a beautiful scene. Of course, in the picture, there must be Jin Yi (our daughter), dressed in Bai costume, peaceful and fresh, refined.

[Main pagoda of Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas]

[Reflection of Three Pagodas in the lake]

Leaving the Three Pagodas, it was noon. We had lunch in Dali Old Town—mushroom hot pot. This restaurant's mushroom hot pot was mouth-watering, its name unforgettable: "I'm Waiting for You in Dali."

[Artistic name, unchanging sentiment]

Goodbye, Dali! Now, we head to Lijiang!

To Lijiang, we need to drive about 180 km on the Dali-Lijiang Expressway. At 2:00 PM, we officially set off. The scenery along the way was picturesque, though not as beautiful as the Linla Highway. Trees on the roadside flashed past the window. I drove while listening to music; our daughter lay on the air mattress in the back seat, sprawled out and sleeping, recharging energy; my wife looked at the navigation and map, suggesting that before arriving in Lijiang, we visit the Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm at Lashihai, which has a trendsetting photo spot called "Pink Empire."

Following the navigation, we exited the expressway, passed through villages, and climbed uphill. The Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm appeared halfway up the mountain. Here you can ride horses, eat, and take trendy photos. Horse riding was something our daughter eagerly anticipated, especially on the Ancient Tea Horse Road. "The Silk Road in the north, the Ancient Tea Horse Road in the south." The Ancient Tea Horse Road, a channel as important as the Silk Road in the development of the Chinese nation, has gradually been buried by the dust of history with modern civilization, but its history and value always shine brightly, attracting later generations to encounter and follow.

The groom led three Yunnan horses. The tether of the rear horse was connected to the saddle of the front horse. The three of us mounted one by one, forming a small caravan. Our daughter rode well, with unity of man and horse, gracefully. Perhaps she didn't realize that this was not an ordinary horse farm or mountain path, but the Ancient Tea Horse Road with thousands of years of wind and frost. Our horses' bells rang over Lashihai, our laughter echoed in the highland forest. Riding on the muddy and winding Ancient Tea Horse Road through the mountains, we breathed the fresh air of nature, looked up at auspicious clouds over the blue sky, quietly listened to the birds' chirping in the forest. All this couldn't hide the dust of the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Riding on it, I seemed to see the ancient caravans, carrying the wheels of time, rolling over the bumps of years, following the rhythm of life, winding into a historical track, writing a timeless legend.

[The ancient and serene Tea Horse Road]

[Memorial photo on the Ancient Tea Horse Road]

Compared with the natural scenery and horse riding, our daughter had no interest in the trendy Pink Empire. Such aesthetic preferences were what I liked to see. After horse riding, we simply took a few photos at the trendy spot and headed to Shuhe Old Town in Lijiang.

[Pink Empire]

In the evening, in light rain, we arrived at Shuhe Old Town parking lot. Xiao Kang from Lishiman Art Club came with an electric tricycle to help us with luggage. The misty rain wet the blue stone slabs, intoxicated the rain travelers. Small bridges over flowing water, green willows and flowers in the old town—an indescribable tranquility and ease. Lishiman Art Club was antique and cozy. Our family room was on the third floor, Spring Courtyard Room 06. The small balcony brought our gaze into the courtyard's plants, flowers, and fish pond—small but with infinite scenery. I would go down to have a good look in the early morning.

[Courtyard of Lishiman Inn (Lijiang Art Club)]

After a short rest, we went to Naxi Huotang in the old town to taste cured rib hot pot. The fire blazed in the stove, poor Diandian was so hot she jumped. Sweating like rain, face red, she preferred to leave early. Along the way, we saw the lively and noisy bar street, which didn't seem like the truest face of Shuhe Old Town. Most parts of the old town, like the rivers and streams, burst with pure vitality in silence.

[Naxi Huotang]

Late at night, our daughter was asleep. I looked at the bright moon outside the window and wanted to tell her: Dear baby, the moon over Shuhe Old Town is also very bright!

Our family, Sunday, July 5, 2020

Spring Courtyard Room 06, Lishiman Inn (Lijiang Art Club), Shuhe Old Town, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province

[Full moon over Lijiang]

Day04: 2020/7/6 — Colorful Yunnan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + Impression Lijiang + Blue Moon Valley)

Early morning, the east showed fish-belly white, the west still had a full moon hanging high. I didn't see the sunrise from the inn's balcony but saw the moonset. My wife and daughter were still sleeping. I took my camera and walked alone in the old town. Stepping on the smooth stone roads, listening to the gurgling water, the whole town was still dreaming, so quiet it was endearing. A line: "The plateau water town lives up to its name, small bridges, flowing water, and willow pavilions. Moonlight is pure, morning sun gentle."

[Glance of Shuhe Old Town]

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area is a 30-minute drive from Shuhe Old Town. Bathed in morning sunlight, we drove there. On the road, the towering snow mountain appeared ahead. It is a sacred mountain never conquered, with snow-capped peaks arranged from north to south in thirteen high peaks. Against the blue sky, it looks like a jade dragon flying in the air.

Near the scenic area, staff checked health codes and sold tickets (medical staff exempt). We registered and purchased tickets conveniently, drove to Ganhaizi and Impression Theater area P6 parking lot, then took the scenic shuttle bus 5 km west to the Snow Mountain Cable Car Lower Station at 3356 meters. In the morning, no queuing; we entered the cable car and started to ride on clouds. Initially, we saw a dense primeval forest below; then bald black-and-white rocks took over; nearing the upper station, the main peak of the snow mountain showed its thousand-year glacier above the 4600-meter snow line in the mist. The Jade Dragon Big Cable Car is 2914 meters long, ascending vertically 1150 meters to the observation deck at 4506 meters.

Adjusting our breathing, we didn't linger but continued climbing along the boardwalk. The howling mountain wind messed up our daughter's long hair, reddened her face, and blew away the last veil of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The jade dragon appeared and disappeared; at some moments, the sky was clear as water, cloudless, the peaks seemed washed by jade liquid, the crystal snow light dazzling, with the brilliance of "snow has no ancient or modern, heaven and earth lose dawn and dusk." After over 30 minutes of high-altitude hiking, the three of us reached the highest observation deck at 4680 meters. The peak of Jade Dragon loomed before us, thousand-year glaciers stretched under our feet. In the summer ice and snow, we cheered and rejoiced. Our daughter composed a poem: "Snow mountain boardwalk steep, scenery on both sides. Snow piles on the mountain, clouds surround the sky." In the summer of the Gengzi year, our 10-year-old daughter climbed to the highest observation deck at 4680 meters. In front of the stone tablet inscribed "Jade Dragon Snow Mountain 4680," we took a precious photo—the three of us in short sleeves, looking confidently into the distance, behind us the thousand-year glacier of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

[White clouds over Jade Dragon Snow Mountain]

[Family photo in short sleeves at 4680m highest observation deck]

If Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was created by gods, the performance "Impression Lijiang" was created by humans. Coming down from the mountain, after lunch at KFC, we arrived early at the Impression Lijiang theater, waiting for the 1:30 PM show. This was my second time watching this performance at the highest outdoor theater; the first time was before we were born. "Impression Lijiang" uses the snow mountain as backdrop, draws the essence of heaven and earth, takes from nature, and uses folk culture as carrier, with bold freehand brushwork at 3100 meters, the world's highest performance venue, bringing the truth and shock of life close to everyone.

The one-hour show is divided into six parts: "Ancient Road Caravan," "Drinking on the Snow Mountain," "Heavenly Earth," "Group Dance," "Drum Dance Sacrifice," and "Blessing Ceremony."

(1) Ancient Road Caravan: Running on the red wall, it's a stunning reappearance of the Ancient Tea Horse Road from 600 years ago with bells and caravans. The saddle dance shows the heroic color of the caravan men; the basket dance shows the great maternal nature of Naxi women.

(2) Drinking on the Snow Mountain: Friends come, drink! Friends leave, drink! Happy, drink! Unhappy, drink! These passionate men at the foot of the snow mountain have wild boldness and childlike joy.

(3) Heavenly Earth: This is a paradise for lovers, this is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Lijiang is called the capital of love suicides. The Dongba scripture records the touching legend of the Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon.

(4) Group Dance: This is a people who live happily forever. For ethnic minorities, speaking is singing, walking is dancing.

(5) Drum Dance Sacrifice: The Naxi people are sons of heaven, brothers of nature.

(6) Blessing Ceremony: This is a magical place. Call heaven, it answers; call earth, it answers… Please cross your hands over your forehead, let your gaze reach far. Towards heaven, put your hands together, spread your arms, raise them above your head, and make your wish. Standing before the magical Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, we sincerely pray for you who come from all directions, begging heaven to fulfill your wishes and bless you with fortune. We sincerely pray for you here, waiting for you to come again.

[Impression Lijiang]

We left our good wishes at Impression Lijiang. From the theater, we took the scenic shuttle bus to Blue Moon Valley. The melted snow of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain forms a river that passes through a valley on the east side. Because the moon is reflected in the blue lake water under the blue sky, and because of the Blue Moon Valley in James Hilton's "Lost Horizon" which is similar, it is called "Blue Moon Valley." This place, very much like Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, uses the looming Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as a backdrop. "Jade Dragon snow peak white clouds fly, Blue Moon Lake waves emerald like jade." A place of excellent scenery, a hot spot for photography. Our daughter was captivated by the beauty of Blue Moon Valley and fascinated by the origin of the White Water River. The various lakes in Blue Moon Valley are connected by the clear-flowing White Water River. Because the riverbed and terraces are composed of white marble and limestone fragments, appearing gray-white, the clear spring flowing over the stones also appears white, hence the name "White Water River." Before leaving Blue Moon Valley, she stirred the limestone fragments at the lakeside with a branch, turning the clear water into a magical milky white.

[Blue Moon Lake waves emerald like jade]

At dusk, it was time to say goodbye to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley. Back in Shuhe Old Town, we sat at a window seat on the second floor of "Xiaoguofan" (Little Pot Rice) Yunnan Folk Flavors Restaurant, listening to the bar singer's passionate voice, tasting braised black goat, Dongba grilled fish, iron-plate stuffed tofu, and little pot rice. This feeling is Lijiang.

[Window seat at Xiaoguofan]

[Braised black goat, Dongba grilled fish, iron-plate stuffed tofu at Xiaoguofan]

After the meal, we walked on the old town streets and browsed ethnic clothing shops. My wife and daughter each bought a set of ethnic costumes. We agreed to wear them the next morning on the stone roads of the old town, leaving a beautiful memory.

Our family, Monday, July 6, 2020

Spring Courtyard Room 06, Lishiman Inn (Lijiang Art Club), Shuhe Old Town, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province

Day05: 2020/7/7 — Colorful Yunnan (Morning in Shuhe Old Town + Lugu Lake Pig-trough Boat)

At daybreak, the old town was sleeping quietly, no pedestrians. Our daughter, wearing a magenta ethnic short outfit, wrapped in a blanket, wearing slippers, walked on the mottled stone road of the old town, sat quietly by the murmuring stream, wandered through alleys with hanging lanterns. My wife used her camera to freeze these lingering moments.

[Early morning in Shuhe Old Town]

Day is breaking, don't say you started early. After traversing the old town, you are young, the morning scenery is unique! Our daughter and the old town complemented each other, adding radiance, leaving the best memories. After breakfast, she waved goodbye to Shuhe Old Town. We were heading to the highland pearl on the border of Sichuan and Yunnan—Lugu Lake.

180 km of mountain roads, 4 hours drive, I had no worries. My wife and I just needed to be as cautious as when we drove to Tibet. We took the Lining Highway and Ninglu Highway from Lijiang to Lugu Lake. The scenery along the way was infinite. The Lining Highway winds through the plateau at an altitude of over 2000 meters, with the most magnificent part being the Eighteen Bends of Lining near the Jinsha River Canyon. The highway is embedded in cliffs, and the Jinsha River rushes out of the canyon, carrying sand and earth, with yellow waves, cascading thousands of miles.

[Jinsha River and Lining Eighteen Bends]

At 2:00 PM, we arrived at the entrance of Lugu Lake Scenic Area, jointly administered by Ninglang County in Yunnan and Yanyuan County in Sichuan. Before entering, we could already see the picturesque mountains surrounding the vast Lugu Lake. After buying tickets and entering, we didn't linger much. Following the navigation, we drove along the mountain road to Shilili Fanmiyue Xiaozhu Mosuo, settled there. From the hotel balcony, the lake stretched endlessly; walking by the lake, the water was crystal clear, and the water-natured flowers floating on the clear surface dotted it. The blue sky and white clouds were reflected. It was incredibly beautiful.

[Balcony view, coincidentally captured our daughter writing her travel notes]

Along the lake, we walked 700 meters to Luoshui Pier. We took a pig-trough boat rowed by a Mosuo boatman and boatwoman to Liwu Bi Island in the center of the lake. The cool wind blew off the lake, stirring the hair of our daughter and wife. Near the island, rocks were visible under the transparent water. Leaning down to drink a handful of lake water, it was as sweet as mountain spring water. Circling the island, we passed between the Crocodile Mouth and the Turtle, which is the boundary between Yunnan and Sichuan provinces on Lugu Lake. The Crocodile Mouth belongs to Yunnan, and the Turtle belongs to Sichuan. Listening to the boatman tell ancient stories of men and women, happening among the beautiful lake and mountains. Here lives a group of Mosuo people who continue the matriarchal clan system, with unique marriage customs where men don't marry and women don't marry, meeting at night and parting at dawn—a natural and simple folk custom, adding a mysterious and beautiful color to this ancient homeland. Lugu Lake is also called the magical Eastern Daughter Kingdom.

[Luoshui Pier]

[Selfie at the bow]

[Border between Yunnan and Sichuan—left: Sichuan, right: Yunnan]

[Clear water of Lugu Lake at Liwu Bi Island]

Lugu Lake, with beautiful scenery, also has delicious food—mouth-watering Mosuo grilled meat. Having not eaten lunch, we had a combined lunch-dinner at Mosuo Flame BBQ near Luoshui Pier. The three of us gathered around a tabletop charcoal grill and started grilling, both real and pretend. Haha, good technique: pork belly crispy outside and tender inside, Mosuo meat full of flavor, stuffed tofu good texture, potato slices lingering, garlic eggplant fragrant.

[Mosuo Flame BBQ]

After a full meal, accompanied by the sunset, we drove back to the entrance of the scenic area to the Lugu Lake Observation Deck. From there, we could see the entire lake scenery of both Sichuan and Yunnan. The lake and mountains were beautiful beyond measure. A mountain rain was approaching; the wind felt chilly. We didn't stay long and returned to the hotel.

[Glance of Lugu Lake Observation Deck]

[Glance of Lugu Lake Observation Deck, rain approaching]

A heavy downpour arrived as expected. That night, raindrops fell on the mirror-like surface of Lugu Lake.

Our family, Tuesday, July 7, 2020

Room 8207, Shilili Fanmiyue Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoxiaxia Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

Day06: 2020/7/8 — Colorful Yunnan (Self-driving around Lugu Lake)

In one day, we circled the lake twice, entering Sichuan twice and returning to Yunnan twice. Such is the magical Lugu Lake, such are we, crazy. Before coming to Yunnan, we knew that due to epidemic prevention policies, hotels in Sichuan on the lakeside did not accept Hubei tourists, while hotels in Yunnan were more rational and inclusive—low-risk area tourists could check in with Yunnan green code. The circumference of Lugu Lake is about 50 km, half of the lakeside road and lake surface are in Sichuan. We weren't sure if we could circle the lake smoothly, so we decided to take it step by step: if possible, we'd circle; if not, we'd return the same way.

After the sun was high, we started from the hotel and drove clockwise around the lake. Soon we arrived at Lover's Beach. There are two Lover's Beaches around Lugu Lake: one is Luoshui Lover's Beach in Yunnan, the other is Libai Lover's Beach in Sichuan. This was Yunnan's Luoshui. The stones met the water; the lake was incredibly clear, calm like a mirror, floating with water-natured flowers; the sky was washed blue, drifting with auspicious clouds. Our family wore red family outfits, adding color to the lake and mountains. As for coming here again in the afternoon and finding water snakes in the water—that's later. Before that, you wanted to embrace every piece of water here.

[Luoshui Lover's Beach]

Leaving Lover's Beach, we continued driving on the mountain road, up and down, to Lige Peninsula on the northwest side of the lake. It sits quietly at the foot of Gemu Goddess Mountain (closed due to epidemic). Houses are scattered on the bay and peninsula. The unique location gives Lige scenery different from other villages. The small Lige Peninsula is loved by visitors. It's an excellent vacation spot at Lugu Lake: willows sway, stones enter the water, gentle ripples, green mountains and white clouds, pig-trough boats reflected in the water, welcoming guests from afar.

[Lige Peninsula scenery]

[Beautiful mountains and clear water at Lige Peninsula]

From Lige Peninsula, there was a section of mountain road difficult to travel due to construction. Even so, it didn't stop us from finding a quiet dirt road on a high mountain in Nisai Village, overlooking the Lugu Lake water. Although thick clouds blocked the blue sky, they couldn't block the clear water and lush mountains.

Following the difficult road, we first left Yunnan and entered Sichuan. Further on, we arrived at the ten-mile sandbank of Wakuai Bay—Libai Lover's Beach. On the stone beach, there was good sunlight and wide view. Colorful pig-trough boats scattered in the lake, a flock of ducks floated by. I parked the car on the beach near the lake. My wife and daughter sat on the car roof, looking at the lake scenery. Green mountains, lake water, green trees, stone beach—all in view, of course including the unique water-natured flowers of Lugu Lake. "Not fearing clouds block the blue sky, only because we are at Lover's Beach." Even without words, full of tenderness. The love poem written by nature here, dyed the scenery, enriched the flavor.

[Libai Lover's Beach]

[Photo with BX7 at Libai Lover's Beach]

[Libai Lover's Beach]

Leaving Lover's Beach, it was noon. Following Provincial Road 307, we left the lakeside and passed through Lugu Lake Town. Stone-paved roads with many Sichuan restaurants. We didn't stop but directly headed to the Grass Sea (Caohai) and the Walking Marriage Bridge, which combine natural and cultural landscapes. Here appeared tourist buses and tour groups. In the parking lot, a Mosuo grandmother braided colorful ribbons into my wife's and daughter's hair. I looked at this magical place by the Grass Sea. The water of Lugu Lake is very blue and clear, while the connected Grass Sea presents a different scene—lush grass and reeds growing in the water. A Walking Marriage Bridge connects both sides of the Grass Sea and divides it into two. In the northeast corner of Lugu Lake, a group of water birds skimmed the water and disappeared into the reeds. Occasionally, Mosuo girls in red and white clothes appeared, and melodious folk songs echoed in the Grass Sea.

[Walking Marriage Bridge and Grass Sea]

The Grass Sea has infinite scenery, but it wasn't your favorite. The story of the Walking Marriage Bridge is distant, a world hard for us to understand. Withdrawing our wandering thoughts, we continued driving around the lake. Amid the lake and mountain scenery, we left Sichuan and returned to Yunnan via Liangfang, completing the first return from Sichuan to Yunnan.

Not long after, we returned along the lake road to Luoshui, to Shilili Fanmiyue Xiaozhu Mosuo. The hotel owner, according to our request from yesterday, arranged a room on the third floor. "To see a thousand miles, go up one more story." Room 303 had a wide view, presenting the entire Lugu Lake and Liwu Bi Island. Room 303 could be called the best view room in the hotel.

[More beautiful view from Room 303, looking at Lugu Lake from inside the room]

Taking a short rest in the hotel. At 3:00 PM, my daughter and wife changed into ethnic costumes, and we started our second tour around the lake. First, to see the afternoon scenery of Lugu Lake, second, to record the route with a phone app. I already knew the route well. First stop: Luoshui Lover's Beach.

Mountain rain was coming; the lake water seemed a bit murky. Our daughter happily posed in the water; I noticed a water snake seemingly moving from shallow water to deep. I told her there was a water snake; she thought I was playing "wolf cry" and didn't believe me. When she saw the snake lurking back to the shore, the color of stones, she was frightened and quickly ran out of the water, away from the shore.

[Afternoon at Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

Lugu Lake is not large; we didn't stop long at the previously visited viewpoints. But there was indeed a missed viewpoint—Mosuo Homeland Observation Deck. We enjoyed the blue sky and white clouds, the lake and mountain scenery. At that moment, we felt happy and beautiful! Circling the lake, we once again entered Sichuan from Yunnan and returned to Yunnan, reliving the beautiful scenery along the way, enjoying the sweet time!

[Mosuo Homeland]

51.97 km, two hours, we completed the second beautiful loop around Lugu Lake. The beautiful Lugu Lake is picturesque. The most beautiful here is not the Goddess Bay, not the Walking Marriage Bridge on the Grass Sea, but the pig-trough boat at Luoshui Pier, the Libai Lover's Beach, and the crescent moon at the hotel entrance.

[Record of circling Lugu Lake: 52 km]

At dusk, soft natural light spilled on the lake in front of the hotel. Our daughter sat on a curved moon-shaped structure on the shore. With my wife's excellent Photoshop skills, it looked like a moon goddess sitting on the moon, the crescent floating on the lake—dreamlike. Back in the hotel, the three of us sat at the round table on the balcony, watching the distant mountains and lake water gradually darken, drinking beer and cola, eating Mosuo flame BBQ, drawing a leisurely full stop to this wonderful day.

[Moon over Lugu Lake]

[Young girl over Lugu Lake]

[Sentiment over Lugu Lake]

[Dinner over Lugu Lake]

After dinner, our daughter sat in front of the computer with interest, continuing to write her travel notes of the Yunnan trip. She typed words like musical notes, depicting the beautiful scenery of colorful Yunnan, writing her own chapter.

Our family, Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Room 8303, Shilili Fanmiyue Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoxiaxia Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

Day07: 2020/7/9 — Colorful Yunnan (Strolling by Lugu Lake + Stone Skipping)

Stillness is a major characteristic of Lugu Lake, perhaps due to the warm embrace of surrounding peaks, or because the mountain wind here is inherently quiet. The lake surface has few waves, the shore is winding with many bays, and there are many stone beaches for playing.

[Stone beach at Lugu Lake]

Waking up naturally, we stretched, had breakfast, walked out of the hotel, and strolled on the stone path by the lake. Mist wrapped the distant mountains, water-natured flowers kissed the mirror-like lake. The saying "water too clear has no fish" does not hold true for Lugu Lake. The water was crystal clear, and tiny transparent fish swam among the waterweeds. I casually picked up a thin stone flake from the beach to skip. The stone skimmed across the water, causing ripples, which greatly interested my daughter. She kept looking down for stones and bending over to skip them.

Along the way, the stone bank was about two feet above the lake, and near the water were water-natured flowers, not good for stone skipping. So we first took photos by green willows and red flowers, swung on a lakeside rocking chair, walked and stopped, arriving at the stone beach of Luoshui Pier. Here, my daughter enthusiastically practiced stone skipping. Perhaps due to wrong posture or insufficient strength, she rarely succeeded. When the stone finally bounced twice on the lake, she cheered and jumped with joy.

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: red flowers]

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: waterwheel]

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: green willows]

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: rocking chair]

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: stone skipping]

At noon, we had steamed stone pot fish at Shengyange (Feast Pavilion). After the epidemic, the bleak tourism industry was evident from the number of diners at this five-star rated restaurant—only our table. The honest boss chose a fresh fish from Lugu Lake, about three catties. He cleaned it, put the whole fish into a steam stone pot, added various seasonings, covered it, turned on the steam. In the time of one hourglass (about 5 minutes), the delicious steamed stone pot fish was already fragrant. We ate with relish; the fish soup was fresh, the fish meat white and tender, various mushrooms added flavor. Delicious stone pot fish, beautiful Lugu Lake.

[Steamed stone pot fish]

In the afternoon, we listened to the rain in the room, read Journey to the West, and had a long nap.

In the evening, on the stone beach after the rain, we had a competition throwing stones. We went to the lakeside under a gentle breeze and light rain to skip stones. Dear baby, do you remember? You made a stone skip four times here. In the rain, circles of ripples on the lake merged into the fine rain of Lugu Lake.

Lugu Lake is such a place, hidden among mountains, attracting people from all directions. Some come from Chengdu, we from Lijiang. I know Lugu Lake is engraved in our hearts: Lugu Lake is located on the border of the southwestern Sichuan and Lijiang, Yunnan. It's a boundary lake between the two provinces. With an altitude of 2690 meters, average depth of 45 meters, maximum depth of 93 meters, excellent water quality almost drinkable directly, transparency up to 11 meters, maximum visibility 12 meters, it is the largest freshwater lake in Sichuan and the highest lake in Yunnan.

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: throwing stones]

[Strolling by Lugu Lake: in the rain]

At night, we had a late snack on the balcony, quietly listening to Lugu Lake's murmuring words. Moonlight like water shone on the sparkling lake. Cool wind blew from the lake, accompanied by songs from the bar, telling our reluctance and nostalgia…

Our family, Thursday, July 9, 2020

Room 8303, Shilili Fanmiyue Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoxiaxia Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

[Serene beauty of Lugu Lake]

[I wait for you at Lugu Lake]

Day08: 2020/7/10 — Colorful Yunnan (Beautiful Yunnan, Farewell!)

Colorful Yunnan, the direction of my heart. Every day in Yunnan, we enjoyed the beauty of nature.

Charming Lijiang, people on the road. This time we leave Lugu Lake, leave Lijiang, leave Yunnan, with infinite long memories.

At 10:30 AM, we drove from Lugu Lake back to Lijiang. The scenery along the way was still beautiful: the waters of Lugu Lake still clear, the Eighteen Bends of Lining still thrilling, the Jinsha River still surging. The wheels rolled forward; after four hours, Lijiang approached, the snow mountain approached. We knew the time to say goodbye to Yunnan was also approaching.

At 3:00 PM, we smoothly returned the car at XX Car Rental (Sanyi Airport branch). After checking in at the airport, we went to Dicos for a combined lunch-dinner. Our daughter ate chicken wings while enthusiastically reading Journey to the West. I wondered if Tang Sanzang on his pilgrimage had passed through Yunnan, and if so, which places?

The restaurant music played, and the familiar melody sounded:

Colorful Yunnan, the direction of my heart;

The peacock flies away, memories linger;

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain glistens with silver light;

Charming Lijiang, people on the road;

Colorful Yunnan, the place to return;

Past fragrance, drifting with the wind;

By the Butterfly Spring, songs are flowing;

By the Lugu Lake, the heart still ripples.

Whenever this melodious song plays, I always turn my eyes to the southwest of the motherland, where I love Yunnan, where we have beautiful memories.

As flight 8L9823 from Lijiang to Wuhan slowly took off, we waved goodbye to Yunnan:

Every day here, we enjoyed the gifts of nature: sunshine, lake, snow mountain, blue sky, white clouds;

Every day here, we enjoyed the kindness of Yunnan people: respect, acceptance, smiles, enthusiasm, sincerity;

Standing on the land of Yunnan, we became clear, transparent, pure-eyed. We found that living is so real and beautiful; why shouldn't we be grateful for life?

Standing on the land of Yunnan, people from Wuhan were far from the trouble of wearing masks and the anxiety of nucleic acid tests. Isn't this the grace of nature? Isn't this the kindness of Yunnan people?

Grateful for the encounter, thank you!

Farewell, Colorful Yunnan!

Farewell, Beautiful Yunnan!

Our family, Friday, July 10, 2020

On flight 8L9823