Lijiang: Beyond the Charm of Slow Time, the Food Is Irresistible

📍 Dali · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 67 likes

What makes a city so captivating that you yearn to return again and again? For me, it might well be its flavors.

Our journey began at Dali Ancient Town, passing through Shuhe, heading to Shuanglang, driving around Erhai Lake, then returning to Dali Ancient Town, and finally back to Lijiang.

In the early morning, the inn was bathed in gentle sunlight. The ancient town's alleyways began to bustle with people. Local villagers started preparing for the day's visitors, and from time to time, locals could be seen walking their dogs, the little dogs looking especially spirited under the rising sun.

Today’s culinary journey started with a bowl of Naxi rice noodles. The romantic legend of Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles has here been distilled into the most straightforward, hunger-quenching bowl: a rich broth, a sour and spicy punch, and noodles with perfect bite. From the moment you lift your chopsticks, all your attention is drawn to the flavor. But rice noodles served with fried dough sticks—was that a special consideration for me, a northerner?

After breakfast, we drove along Snow Mountain Road, catching glimpses of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and arrived in Shuhe.

Shuhe Ancient Town is known as the 'Home of Clear Springs.' It was one of the earliest settlements of the Naxi ancestors and the birthplace of the Mu clan chieftains. Lying at the heart of all Lijiang’s scenic areas, Shuhe is a living specimen of the Naxi people’s transition from an agrarian society to a commercial one. It is a well-preserved important market town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and also a hub for visiting Lijiang Ancient Town, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lugu Lake, the First Bend of the Yangtze River, and the Three Parallel Rivers scenic area.

This ancient town feels even more rustic and eco-friendly than Dayan. From the building materials to the layout of the streets, everything remains as it originally was.

The phrase 'bright sun and spring breeze' perfectly captures the ideal season and weather for travel. During our half-day in Shuhe Ancient Town, everything seemed to illustrate those words: winding alleys and weather-worn walls, adorned with bright flowers and plump, vibrantly colored, fragrant fruits.

Snacks abound in Shuhe Ancient Town.

Led by a friend, we stepped into a restaurant in the town. The setting was wonderful—a small stream flowed by the entrance, surrounded by blooming flowers. The service was excellent: young men and women greeted us warmly while never pausing their work, reminding me of relatives back in my childhood hometown. The Naxi-style grilled fish was fried to perfection, fragrant and tender, unpretentious but made with honest ingredients. The small-pot rice was incredibly aromatic and delicious. The batter-coated tofu, a star from 'A Bite of China,' was mouthwateringly good!

Barely finished eating, I was already thinking about the food at the next stop. The first thing as we hit the road was to play the song 'Go to Dali' in the car. We rolled down the windows to let in the most pleasant spring breeze, and it almost carried the scent of Erhai Lake. We passed Shuanglang, went by Yuji Island, and glimpsed the Sun Palace, the divine-like work of dancer Yang Liping, as well as Little Putuo.

Shuanglang used to be one of my favorite places: facing Erhai Lake, backed by Cangshan Mountain, with small boats by the water being its signature. The green trees in the water were what attracted me most. However, due to sewage treatment works now, we couldn’t enter the town proper and could only gaze from afar. The peach trees by the roadside were still small; I believe in five years, when they’ve grown tall and bloom again, it will be truly beautiful.

Dali's hot and sour crucian carp is another local specialty once featured on 'A Bite of China.' With fish from Erhai Lake, water from the lake, and local ingredients like sour papaya and plum sauce, this common fish is imbued with a unique flavor.

A greater challenge came from wild greens. Mint—no longer just a delicate garnish on Western pastries. Houttuynia (fish mint)—not only a medicinal herb used when sick. Most surprisingly, the tender pine buds of spring were also transformed into a delicacy.

I followed the chef into their kitchen: clean and tidy, with many unusual ingredients and unique cooking techniques.

Milk fan, or 'rushan,' is one of the most famous local snacks. 'Yunnan’s Eight Oddities' includes 'milk sold in sheets'—and this is it. The most authentic rushan we tasted here had a touch of sweetness added by the chef, transforming the originally somewhat greasy snack into something everyone, young and old, could enjoy.

Snacks that hold their own against proper meals open up another vast realm. Beyond the shared Yunnan love for mushrooms, eating insects is probably a harder hobby to swallow. Encouraged by friends, I ate half a skewer, and let’s just say that was my limit.

After wining and dining, it was time to gently revisit memories. I strolled into the ancient town to see if I could find traces of old memories.

My last visit to Dali Ancient Town was three years ago. I didn’t expect it to remain just as it was.

Climbing up to Wuhua Tower to look at Cangshan Mountain, it seemed even more towering than a few years ago. Yet the loveliest light of the setting sun still fell upon every household in Dali.

The ancient town is also filled with small shops selling specialty handicrafts—and of course, plenty of snacks. Walking along the main street, you can eat your way to fullness. Snacks from all over China seem to be gathered here.

As dusk fell, we returned once more to Lijiang Ancient Town.

When the evening lamps were lit, the night air turned cool as water. History surfaced through the dim light and shadows. The centuries-old customs and stories of the Naxi people will continue to be passed down, while the bustling travelers from afar unfold their own tales in the hazy night.

Lijiang’s snack city is not large, but it’s awash with color. Various tofu creations, whose names I couldn’t recall, were incredibly tempting. I snapped photos of dozens of different snacks—here’s a portion to share.

At night, the most lively spots in Dayan Ancient Town are the bars. But I preferred to wander with the flow of people, leaving the last echoes of this short trip on the old flagstone paths. I brushed past other visitors, gazing at this brightly lit, bustling ancient town.

The culinary journey hasn’t ended; a new trip is about to begin.

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1. Lijiang Ancient Town

2. Shuhe Ancient Town

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