Late Summer, Early Autumn: Discover Dali’s Charm of Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moonlight
Foreword
Friends always ask, 'As a travel guru for so long, if you could go anywhere on a whim, where would you want to go?' I used to give vague and official-sounding replies like ‘the most beautiful scenery is always on the road.’ Now, married with a child, I've lost some of the courage to travel alone. I remember coming back from a long business trip one time, sitting around having a barbecue with family and old friends at night. My wife was holding our child, who had just fallen asleep. An airplane crossed the night sky, and our kid suddenly jumped up, pointed at the sky, and said, ‘Vroom vroom (airplane), Daddy, Daddy.’ That night, I stayed silent for a long time: how much he must have missed his daddy during all those work trips, and how he managed to fall asleep peacefully.
Actually, I didn’t want to start this travel journal with sentimental reflections. The more places I go, the more I realize that when your heart has attachments, you feel homeless everywhere. So whenever work trips come up, I try to bring my wife and child along. After all, companionship can withstand the long years.
Thanks to this invitation to travel Yunnan, our family set off again, heading west all the way to Dali.
As a dad with a baby, I won’t go into detail about all the gear we brought—my earlier travel notes already list everything. But for a late-summer-to-early-autumn trip to Dali, here are some thoughtful and practical tips:
① Clothing: Before heading to each destination, our family tradition is to let Mom handle the wardrobe—matching parent-child outfits, couple outfits, or same-color looks. For single cuties, you can try bold color contrasts or copycat styling (just search destination guides to see what cool guys and gals are wearing there). One important reminder: in September, Dali has big temperature swings, so while staying stylish, remember to bring a jacket and long pants!
② Essentials: Dali’s weather has been unpredictable lately, so carry an umbrella. A transparent raincoat or umbrella can double as a prop for photos. Also, Dali’s UV rays are strong—remember sun protection. And finally, a power bank that keeps your devices charged worry-free. (This “Visit Yunnan” trip even thoughtfully prepared a travel goodie bag, super practical.)
③ Medicine: This is a classic must-bring. I recommend packing for any trip, especially with kids: cold medicine, diarrhea medicine, fever reducer, band-aids, mosquito repellent, etc. Travel fatigue, catching a chill, or tummy troubles from unfamiliar food can happen anytime. You can buy a portable first-aid kit on Taobao—and I hope you never need it.
④ Visit Yunnan App: This official Yunnan travel assistant really helped a lot. Enter a destination, and you get check-in guides and play tips all in one place. Now you can even rent a car and get a gas card—some savvy self-driving travelers got free fuel for a whole week!
Day 1: Landed in Dali → Checked into Tinghuatang Dali Ancient Town branch → Chaimiduo Restaurant → Xizhou Ancient Town → Hanlin Restaurant
Day 2: Checked into Tinghuatang Erhai Flower Petal Sea branch → Shuihua Garden → Cuitian Restaurant → Hotel dinner
Day 3: Return trip
Since this was our family’s second time in Dali and we’d already experienced the ancient town and Erhai scenery, this trip’s theme was simply a long-overdue chance for parent-child bonding. So our itinerary focused on the popular, highly rated garden boutique hotel brand—Tinghuatang—and attractions that felt natural and relaxing.
Let’s talk about the guesthouse first. As always, the reviews and reputation of any guesthouse or hotel are our security guarantee for family trips. Earlier, my wife and I had stayed at Tinghuatang in Lijiang Ancient Town, and whether it was the garden landscaping, interior decor, or service attitude, we were delighted to get a high-value stay for a reasonable budget. So this time we picked Tinghuatang’s Dali Ancient Town and Erhai Flower Petal Sea branches.
Tinghuatang Ancient Town Branch – Encounter a Moroccan Garden Haven in Dali Ancient Town
Following the GPS, we were greeted as if discovering an oasis in the desert—this was exactly the little garden we’d hoped for. The stewards rushed out to help with luggage, and after a quick and efficient check-in, we headed to our room.
The interior decor was an eye-opener: Moroccan-style landscaping, Gaudí-like curves, a white cave-inspired design that immersed you completely, plus a secret garden with a wooden rocking horse. The hallway overflowed with blooming hydrangeas—this was the fragrant beauty of late summer and early autumn.
The guesthouse stewards were all very warm, like know-it-all helpers for your trip: where to have fun, what to eat, things to watch out for. When it rained, they’d dash out with umbrellas; before you retired to your room, they’d offer a bowl of mung bean soup to cool you down. The two breakfast aunties were even more caring—seeing us with a little kid, they promptly handed over a steaming corn on the cob, then added, ‘There’s more in the kitchen, all you want.’
The guesthouse is a short walk from the ancient town, but thoughtful stewards provide shuttle service.
Tinghuatang Erhai Flower Petal Sea Branch – Stay in G-Dragon’s Back Garden
As the name suggests, Flower Petal Sea, it truly felt like being in an ocean of blossoms. They say the whole property has nearly 20,000 daisy plants, so netizens call it G-Dragon’s back garden. Before we arrived, the steward told us that the road in front was under construction and hoped it wouldn’t spoil our mood. Then, as we drove from the Ancient Town branch to the Flower Petal Sea branch, the view broadened, transitioning from urban to rural—a kind of pleasure in itself.
Arriving at the guesthouse, the steward warmly welcomed us again. As we climbed the steps, everywhere we looked was a sea of flowers. Tinghuatang’s label was deeply imprinted on us. Despite some construction outside, the unobstructed sea view from our second-floor room and the stunning garden terrace more than made up for it. We checked in efficiently and were served a home-style welcome drink of sour prune juice, which tasted amazing.
The room layout was sensible, the bedding comfortable, and the minimalist design left a tatami area.
Worth noting was the lavish breakfast: besides a nutritionally balanced set meal, there was unlimited fresh milk. The guesthouse also serves lunch and dinner—they even gifted us homemade flower cakes. The dishes were unbeatable: mushroom chicken hotpot, sour-spicy fish, Xizhou baba (a local pastry), and pickled vegetables with stir-fried pork. Authentic and affordable, and in-house guests get an extra 20% off.
Moving away from the typical Cangshan and Erhai itinerary, this time we picked a few parent-child-friendly spots.
1. Xizhou Ancient Town
Last time we visited Dali, friends kept saying, ‘You must go to Xizhou Ancient Town if you get the chance.’ So this trip, our first stop was here. Compared to Dali Ancient Town, I prefer Xizhou’s authenticity and natural feel. The spot called Xilinyuan is incredibly popular—just hail a Didi or navigate with GPS.
A family of three at the foot of Cangshan after rain, stepping into any rice paddy, effortlessly captures the joy of connecting with nature. Actually, Xizhou isn’t big; a half-day tour is plenty. Hop on a farmer’s tricycle for 30 yuan to loop around eight destinations: Yan Family Residence, Xixiu Embroidery Workshop, Tiangong Workshop, Xizhou Tie-Dye, the Insta-famous Round House, Sifang Street, Yan Family Courtyard, and Damas Tea House. You can stop as you like along the way, and the driver will wait patiently—they seem to move at a calm, unhurried pace, letting time flow gently.
No entrance fee for the ancient town. For food, you must try Xizhou baba, featured on ‘A Bite of China.’ It comes in savory and sweet versions; I prefer the rose and brown sugar flavor. The stall is just past Sifang Street, but it sells out early.
2. Dali Ancient Town
When visiting Dali, typical itineraries include a day at Cangshan and a day at Erhai. If you have one more day, I’d suggest you just stay in the ancient town and go nowhere else.
The best way to enjoy Dali Ancient Town is to wake up naturally, wait until the buzz of activity fills the air, then head out to explore. Route recommendation: Fuxing Road – Renmin Road – Guangwu Road.
For dining, I recommend the currently hot “Chaimiduo” farm restaurant. Unlike Bai-style eateries or farmhouse restaurants, Chaimiduo has its own farm, with fresh milk and vegetables self-supplied.
3. Shuihua Garden
A new Instagrammable hotspot in Dali. Once again, beyond Cangshan and Erhai, Dali now boasts many photo-worthy spots both east and west of Erhai Lake. This time, on a friend’s recommendation, I suggest “Shuihua Garden.”
Tons of photo elements: mirror of the sky, sea of flowers, wooden swing, glass sphere;
Cool experiences: kayaking, llama feeding, Hobbiton-style houses.
Buy a ticket at the entrance for 99 yuan/person, including one kayak session (no time limit, play all you want), one afternoon tea at Shuihua Music Plaza (with snacks, tea, and live folk singers), plus a jeep sunset party on site—the photos look super cool.
I feel a bit embarrassed to wrap up so hastily. Dali has many off-the-beaten-path experiences waiting to be discovered. The scenery on the east and west sides of Erhai is different, and honestly, you could spend a week here without getting bored.
Some extra travel tips for reference:
1. Don’t buy silverware or tea specialties on impulse—prices are inflated.
2. Unless your parents are traveling, there’s no need to join a tour in Dali. Spend some time on the Visit Yunnan app to research; transportation is convenient.
3. Don’t be dazzled by words like “sea-view room” when booking guesthouses. Read user reviews carefully. For this trip, I recommend Tinghuatang.
4. What captivates me most about Dali, besides its natural beauty, is the wonderful atmosphere created by craftsmen, musicians, and painters. It’s just that traveling with a young child poses many inconveniences. But I’ll definitely return.
Living in cities for so long, surrounded by cold skyscrapers and indifferent faces, we may have grown used to rigid, repetitive lives. But in Dali, in this unspoiled countryside that shuns the world, even though visitors keep coming, the locals hold onto their original spirit, still pure and clean.
