Yunnan Road Trip|Lost in the Land of Colorful Clouds, Give Yourself a Time Outside of Time
Yunnan was once like a utopia in many people's hearts, but in recent years, the media has hyped it up to the point of being somewhat pretentiously artsy and tacky.
However, for me, every place is special, just as you say, every place you haven't been to is a paradise worth visiting.
I don't know why I suddenly decided to go to Yunnan, it might have been because of a discounted plane ticket, but I know that was just the trigger for this trip. I've been to Yunnan many times before, and each time I left, I knew I would definitely set foot on this land again. The reason for departure can always be simple. As long as your heart wants to go, your steps will arrive someday.
Amidst the busy, restless rhythm of life, you always need to give yourself a period of time to live outside of time. This time, a road trip through Yunnan, from Kunming to Dali to Deqin Meili Snow Mountain.
About the surprises and moments that moved my heart along the way, I'll slowly tell you.
On this road trip, I brought my Huaxia credit card. From the very beginning of the trip, the airport VIP lounge, fast-track security, to using it on the Ctrip app to book flights, hotels, and travel itineraries, and then during the journey itself, the convenience and perks are plentiful~
Come on, join me and explore Yunnan with the Huaxia card, making travel even smoother.
Days of flowers and seas~
Probably very few people can resist the healing power of Dounan Flower Market. My first visit, I was truly like a child who had never seen the world.
It's said that seven out of every ten fresh-cut flowers nationwide come from Yunnan, and Dounan accounts for over 80% of Yunnan's fresh-cut flower trading volume.
The market was bustling with lively everyday vibes.
I encountered hydrangeas even more beautiful than Endless Summer, and bought some stems to send home. A bunch of sunflowers for five yuan can buy all the happiness. The legendary trunk full of flowers, you could fill it for less than 100 yuan~
Happiness overflows as abundantly as the flowers here. Today's thought: how to spend 100 yuan here~ I might not even be able to carry it all with both hands,
———— I N F O ————
【One-minute guide on why to visit Dounan Flower Market】:
Dounan Flower Market is the largest in Asia and the second largest in the world. Seven out of every ten fresh-cut flowers nationwide come from Yunnan, and the Kunming Dounan Flower Industry Park handles over 80% of Yunnan's fresh-cut flower trading volume.
Thanks to its unique climate and geography, Yunnan has become one of the country's largest flower producers. The scale and variety of Kunming's flower markets are dizzying. "Kunming flowers sold by the kilo" is one of Yunnan's Eighteen Oddities. Dounan Flower Market in Dounan Village, Chenggong District, Kunming, has become a famous wholesale flower market. Located 18 kilometers from Kunming, it is the heart of the national fresh-cut flower market and has developed into "China's and even Asia's largest fresh-cut flower trading market", earning the title of Flower Capital.
【Exploration Report】:
> Main Hall:
Dounan Flower Market indeed has many buildings, each selling different things.
The one with "China Kunming Dounan Flower Market" written on it is the main hall. Generally, this is where girls come to check in during their travels.
Dounan Flower Market operates both day and night. During the day, it mainly sells succulents and potted plants, and there's also retail of fresh flowers.
The flowers are mainly for tourists, but they're really cheap.
> Trading Culture:
The market starts stocking up around 5 pm, and suddenly many people set up stalls at the entrance, selling both flowers and foliage.
The scale is huge, worth witnessing firsthand.
The trading market starts at 8 pm. Flower varieties are graded from A to F, ideal for observing the market's local culture.
> About Prices:
Prices vary for the same type of flower. For sunflowers, common ones are 5 yuan a bunch, and the better-looking ones are 15 yuan a bunch.
A big bunch of sunflowers for 5 yuan, baby's breath for 10 yuan for three bunches, ranunculus for 10 yuan a bunch, acacia flowers for 10 yuan a bunch...
(Sorry hands, you won't be able to carry them all)
【Address】: Flower World, Flower Avenue, Chenggong District, Kunming
Self-driving: Best choice, because you'll definitely buy a lot, and the dream of a "trunk full of flowers" is no longer just a dream.
Metro: Line 1 to Dounan Station (Exit C). After exiting, turn left at the intersection, then right, and you'll arrive in ten minutes~
【Opening Hours】: 9:00 - 17:00
【Best Season】: March to October, when flowers are in full, vibrant bloom
【Money-saving TIPS】:
In your travel life, develop the habit of paying by card. Various points and card rewards can instantly earn you a bunch of sunflowers~
Huaxia Bank has monthly "Swipe & Win" and "Rewards for Full Spending" campaigns, with different lucky draw benefits based on the number of swipes and spending amount.
A few days in Kunming, a morning shower, and the sun likes to come out in the afternoon.
When I arrived at Qianxun Mowen, it was exactly two in the afternoon. The autumn sunlight climbed onto the branches, under the eaves, on the tiles.
The wind chime under the maple tree tinkled, playing with light and shadow.
I loved the living stream water in the courtyard, flowing along with the sound of insects.
Hidden in the city, from the mountains to the study.
An afternoon nap, looking out the floor-to-ceiling window into the small courtyard, hawthorn fruits occasionally dropped onto the wooden boards with a thud.
The room's courtyard had a private hot spring pool. In the dark night, warm mountain spring water, milk, and flower petals, with the warm glow of candle holders in the slightly cool air.
The sound of crickets at night, rising and falling in my ears,
Not knowing what day it is, time also silently makes its sound.
———— I N F O ————
【About "Qianxun Mowen · Zen Hotel"】:
Qianxun Mowen is a hotel meticulously crafted over two years by Mr. Li Yapeng, together with many renowned figures of sentiment.
Located within the World Expo Garden, it's a true hidden gem in the city.
【Hotel Visit Report】:
> Hotel Style:
The public areas and guest rooms are exquisitely spacious, blending Han and Tang dynasty culture with modern luxury, classical with fashionable, graceful with opulent.
While the design leans towards Han and Tang styles, the facilities are top-notch, built to super high-star standards, featuring a restaurant, long bar, wine cellar, and tea room.
> Private Courtyard Hot Spring Pool:
Natural hot springs, perfect for washing away fatigue and worries at night.
The guest rooms provide milk and rose petals. In your own private courtyard, listening to crickets, under the slightly cool autumn night, enjoy an open-air soak~
> SPA Area:
There's a separate SPA area that also welcomes outside guests.
In-house guests can enjoy SPA treatments right in their rooms, which have a private spa hall—a truly unique feature. You can relax in the comfort of your own room without stepping out.
> Exclusive Dining:
Sitting in the deeply Zen-inspired room, eating a bowl of Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles is so comforting.
The highly aesthetic, traditionally Zen Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles excel from the utensils and plating to the ingredients. The noodles are served in a basket and garnished with chrysanthemums, very Zen-like.
Timing: Order at least two hours in advance because the clay pot preparation takes time, but it's well worth it for the taste and presentation!
Price: 168 yuan per person
> Slow Tea Life:
In your spare time, you can enjoy tea in the tea room, where friends from all corners become like family. You might even meet the hospitable owner treating everyone to tea. I love afternoons and nights hidden away in this paradise.
> About Photography:
The hotel itself looks like a painting; its architecture and garden lines make for great photos, whether casual or professional.
Kimono and Hanfu costumes are available, along with props like paper umbrellas and sachets that can be borrowed at the front desk.
【Address】: Inside the World Expo Garden, 439 Bailong Road, Panlong District, Kunming
【Booking】: Ctrip Hotels
【Money-saving TIPS】:
Using a Huaxia Bank credit card with the Ctrip app for hotel bookings really saves a lot~
> When booking flights or hotels on the Ctrip Travel app and paying with a Huaxia Bank credit card, orders over 20 yuan enjoy a random discount of 20–666 yuan.
> Starting at 10:00 a.m. on the first day of each month, cardholders purchasing domestic travel packages on the Ctrip Travel app or mobile website (https://m.ctrip.com) can enjoy 300 yuan off a single order of 3,000 yuan or more (up to 300 yuan). Each campaign period has a limited 350 offers, on a first-come, first-served basis. During the entire campaign, each cardholder can benefit once per month.
BTW, if you have a Huaxia Bank UnionPay QuickPass themed card, every Tuesday and Saturday when you use it for UnionPay QuickPass payments on the Ctrip app, you can participate in a 62-yuan-order, 30-yuan-off promotion.
Old street at dusk, light and shadow shuttle between past and present.
Walking to every corner of the old street, vaguely tracing its original appearance.
The city is undergoing massive demolition and construction, and people's lifestyles are changing. Old buildings are layered with modern high-rises, especially striking when night falls over the city.
Sometimes I don't know what I'm searching for, but wherever I go I always want to uncover its original preservation. Perhaps I'm a nostalgic person; things that live in the past inexplicably make me feel comfortable and lovely, that distinct individuality gives me a tranquility that allows me to pause.
An old street, counting the cultural imprints of a city?
Searching for the marks left by time?
———— I N F O ————
Address: Old street area west of Zhengyi Road, Wuhua District, Kunming
Time: All day, but recommended from dusk to early evening when the light and shadows give the old street more soul
Old Street Exploration Notes:
> Old Buildings:
Kunming's old street is a great place for photos. Every bluestone-paved road, every white-walled, grey-tiled old building is a memory worth cherishing.
This building, resembling those on Wukang Road in Shanghai, is symmetrically designed, and many people stop here for a photo.
> Jianxinyuan:
Jianxinyuan on the old street is a century-old shop. Need I say more? It’s the taste in the memories of Kunming locals. Boss, one bowl of Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles, and one bowl of papaya water.
> Dongfang Bookstore:
Dongfang Bookstore is also a must-visit on the old street. With a century of history, walking in instantly gives you a feeling of time travel.
A very distinctive handmade rice noodle roll shop, recommended items include cold rice noodle rolls, fried tofu, and braised fatty intestine noodles.
About Kunming Old Street, to be precise, it's not exactly on the outskirts of Kunming, but history once marginalized it.
Just like every city has its own history and roots, Kunming is no exception. With nearly 2,000 years of history, the old streets of Kunming have become a unique cultural mark for Kunming people.
This old street is called Yongdao Street, right in the city center. In 1983, Kunming’s earliest flower and bird market appeared on Yongdao Street. Over time, the merchants who set up iron-sheet stalls on Yongdao Street to sell flowers, birds, fish, and insects made a fortune and gradually expanded, eventually forming the Jingxing Jewelry and Flower-Bird Market. Moreover, these small businesses representing the city's marketplace character even extended to Guanghua Street and Wenming Street. Today, Yongdao Street has been renovated and upgraded, and the merchants who once moved away have returned with upgraded goods.
After restoration, the old streets of Kunming are now a core part of the city's historical and cultural heritage, a truly original old neighborhood. In terms of both tangible and intangible cultural heritage, it has become an indelible cultural mark for modern Kunming people.
The sixteenth day of the eighth lunar month, a full moon night.
A moon over Erhai Lake.
———— I N F O ————
Filming location: Cai Village Pier, Dali
BGM: Crystal Valley
Equipment: Sony a7m3 + Sony FE200-600mm, f/5.6-6.3
【Moon photography tips】:
> If using a standard lens, no matter how much you zoom, you'll only see a white dot, let alone capture the moon’s texture. Generally, for moon photography, the longer the focal length the better. But if beginners don't have a "super-telephoto" lens, at least use a 200mm lens or add a teleconverter.
> Use full manual mode.
When shooting the moon, we're usually in a dark environment. Therefore, if you use semi-automatic or priority modes, the camera might be misled by the surrounding darkness into thinking there's insufficient light, resulting in a slower shutter speed or wider aperture. Consequently, the photo will be overexposed. So, it's best to set the camera to full manual mode when shooting the moon, take a few test shots, and fine-tune according to the conditions. Here's a commonly used setting: aperture f/8, shutter speed 1/125, ISO 100. Of course, this is just a reference; you must adjust based on the actual situation.
Early October in Dali, the sunlight is captivating, and I couldn't help but run into the old times again.
A few years ago when I visited Cai Village, you could drive directly to the lakeside, with the coastal road, and Erhai Lake's water rippling by the side. Now it's become Cai Village Pier, and the road from the village entrance to the pier is bustling.
Turning into an alley, I suddenly realized it's still the slow time from memory, living outside the low-noise, beyond-time colors and images imprinted with Yunnan.
I love Erhai blue, changing with different saturations from morning to night.
In the afternoon, the sunlight shines directly on Erhai Lake. A few steps to the water's edge, the sparkling starbursts are an intimate surprise.
Stepping onto this land of Dali once again, another road trip around Erhai Lake.
When you're in a good mood, you can take a local's boat and drift for a while in the deep blue of Erhai Lake, feeling the sky's blue and the water's clarity, and the wind blowing over the lake, sometimes with a faint lake-bream smell, but that smell is definitely not unpleasant.
At noon, the sun shines directly on Erhai Lake. Walk to the water's edge, get up close to Erhai. The sparkling starbursts are an intimate surprise.
Drive up the winding mountain road, change your perspective and look at the small town where you slept last night, and you might even foolishly try to spot the house you stayed in. There are so many seemingly boring little things in travel that make the whole time lovely.
Seagulls usually arrive at Little Putuo Island in October and leave by mid-March the following year. This migration brings a unique scenery to Wase Town. Erhai's fish and nutrients cannot meet all the seagulls' needs. The local villagers welcome this migration, offering gifts of food in hopes of seeing them return next year.
You must have seen blue skies and eagles soaring, giving you an impression of freedom. And does this Erhai blue and the seagulls give you the same feeling? It seems that blue and flight, combined, always move the heart.
Circling the lake, as sunset arrives, the sunlight softens into this deep blue, shimmering on the water's surface. The village slowly sheds the sunlight; pause to watch it quietly change. This is Erhai blue, from morning to night, with unmissable sights. Sunrise, noon, sunset, stars—surely you can find your favorite glance.
At the foot of Cangshan Mountain, flower seas, rice paddies, birch forests... overlap too much with memories of past autumns, yet there are more lovely spots.
Coming back, this time I finally brought my mom to a place I like. I hope she’ll like it.
'Self-driving Travel' Money-Saving Tips:
> Car rental: Book a rental car on the Ctrip app and use your Huaxia credit card. For orders over 20 yuan, enjoy a random discount of 20–666 yuan.
> Huaxia Changxing Card benefits: Up to 6% fuel cashback per month. Bring it on your road trip for convenience and savings~
In autumn, Dali's temperature difference between day and night increases. The gentle, lovely sunlight during the day gives ample reason to fully enjoy Erhai Lake.
On an afternoon when the sun pours down, drive around Erhai Lake, stroll the streets, pass through coastal towns with beautiful names, and capture images of low-noise, beyond-time moments.
34 kilometers from Dali's Xiaguan, facing Erhai Lake to the east and resting against Cangshan Mountain to the west, Xizhou's Bai culture is still as vivid as its architecture, giving you a sense of lighthearted elegance.
Xizhou Town, the names of towns along Erhai Lake are all so pleasant you won't forget them. The clash of colors always brings out more beautiful aspects of things, just like the deep lanes and red doors you can still see everywhere in these towns. I always feel that framing them in a composition makes them especially beautiful.
The people I meet during the journey always make me curious about their lives. Thinking about the encounters between people, it feels magical and endearing. As an outsider, I gaze at their lives, and there must be ordinary yet touching stories.
The city is undergoing massive demolition and construction, and the Bai people's way of life is also changing. The original markets now have tourists, and naturally, images of vendors doing business have taken root. I try to walk to every corner of the village, wanting to see its original appearance. Sometimes I don't know what I'm searching for, but wherever I go, I always want to uncover its original preservation. Maybe I'm a nostalgic person; those things that live in the past inexplicably feel comfortable and lovely, that distinct individuality gives me a tranquility that allows me to pause.
The villages surrounding Erhai Lake used to be small fishing villages. You can imagine they were places where people worked with the sunrise and rested with the sunset by the lake. From the abandoned fishing ports with many rusty boats, you can picture the locals' past lives. Now fishing is banned in Erhai Lake, only silverfish are allowed. Driving around Erhai Lake, you can still see such scenes of the Bai people. Perhaps in a few years, they will be rare.
A single loop around Erhai Lake is not satisfying, especially the coastal road from Shuanglang to Wase. It attracts me so much that when I woke up in Shuanglang in the morning, I couldn't help but drive along it again to see its early morning appearance. The villagers rise with the sun, and their toil is as solid as this land, giving everyone rich rewards.
People living in Dali live romantically, living up to its reputation of wind, flowers, snow, and moon.
At the foot of Cangshan Mountain, encounter Jizhao Nunnery, its front and back yards full of succulents~
Wandering along the Tea Horse Road, left behind after eons of change, even oneself is forgotten outside of time.
In autumn, Dali's day-night temperature difference increases, with gentle, lovely sunlight during the day giving ample reason to fully enjoy Erhai Lake.
Up the mountains and down to the lake with mommy~
Picking tea halfway up Cangshan Mountain, overlooking the distance, the small towns surrounding Erhai Lake are all in view.
In early autumn, Erhai Lake's water near the shore begins to yellow with aquatic grass. Boating on Erhai Lake is an intimate surprise. Feel the blue sky and clear water, the wind blowing over the lake, a faint sweet smell of fish, and occasionally finding water chestnuts—these are all small afternoon delights.
This is my first night in Shuanglang. In the autumn and winter of the northern hemisphere, the stars over Erhai Lake fill the sky as soon as it gets dark at 7 o'clock. If you avoid the restless lights, slip into a quiet alley, or step onto a terrace with the lights off, or drive to a wild field, while feeling the solitude, this land will generously give you a vast starry sky.
Many years ago, I had already forgotten what the starry sky looked like, let alone seeing a shooting star. In my memory, starry skies belonged to childhood. Gradually, starry skies have become unfamiliar to us city dwellers. They are written into songs, poems, and movies, and the restless life has inspired so many people chasing the stars.
It's amazing, a starry sky, a glimpse of blue, a city's lights—those moments about them become profound and uniquely special among countless trivial memories.
In the autumn and winter of the northern hemisphere, the Milky Way becomes less brilliant.
At 3 a.m., lying in bed unable to sleep, I simply went to the rooftop. The Milky Way had already risen above Erhai Lake. The sleeping Shuanglang made the starry sky even more desolate. The pitch-black terrace was a bit frightening at first, but the darkness made every star seem to shine. Occasionally looking up to see a meteor streaking across the sky, I suddenly felt that the entire starry sky over Erhai Lake was mine. Time passed under such a starry sky, every minute and second twinkled with faint light.
Beautiful things are always fleeting. May every walk I take have my favorite frame accompanying me to write a story, and in every unforgettable moment, unexpectedly meet another version of myself.
Xizhou, a name I thought was so pleasant and unforgettable three years ago, still feels the same today. This time, I finally stayed here.
Walking the alleys and lanes of Xizhou town, every framing grid is filled with scenery I love.
On an afternoon when sunlight pours down, the images here are still low-noise, as if living outside of time, and time itself has stopped in the old days.
As time passes, ancient memories will always remain.
In Xizhou, Dali, the Bai tie-dye, the Erhai blue dyed from woad leaves.
Handmade tie-dye.
I love snow-capped mountains too much, and I love the starry sky too much. When the two perfectly come together, I'm willing to be whimsical for it.
Driving all the way, from Dali to Deqin.
The city I live in can't see stars; they appear in movies, songs, and memories.
Every night I meet you,
I’m like a star,
Rising from the brightest star at night, the stars connect the day and night of sunrise.
All the stories about stars are hidden in the deep blue night sky.
———— I N F O ————
【About "Meili Snow Mountain"】:
Meili Snow Mountain in Yunnan, also known as the Prince of Snow Mountains. Located in the middle section of the Hengduan Mountains, about 10 kilometers northeast of Deqin County, Yunnan, between the Nujiang and Lancang Rivers, connecting to the Adonggni Mountain in Tibet to the north and Biluo Snow Mountain to the south.
The main peak, Kawagebo, a name that alone made me travel day and night.
【Photography equipment】:
> Camera: SONY a7m3
(Prepare multiple cameras to shoot simultaneously, saving time and capturing the best moments of the starry sky)
> Moving slider
> Intervalometer (most cameras now have built-in time-lapse functions, so not necessary)
Temperature differences are large; even on summer nights, starry sky photography requires a down jacket and a windbreaker.
【About Refueling】:
> National Highway 214 is a winding mountain road, fuel-consuming with few gas stations. During holidays, queues are super long, so be sure to fill up when departing.
> Huaxia Changxing Card, a money-saving trick. Up to 6% fuel cashback per month. I always bring it on road trips ~ highly recommend it to you too.
The sunset falls into Erhai Lake. Returning to the hotel, I try to help the host, tending to the terrace as attentively as he does, as if I've truly stepped into a piece of life here.
In fact, travel has never solved any tangible problems; it's just that with every departure and arrival, I can better feel the weight of time, and after each return, I understand and love life itself more.
There's still time; let's be on the road together.
Travelogue Contents
1. Travel video
2. Kunming | Dounan Flower Market, days of flowers and seas
3. Kunming | Qianxun Mowen, hidden in the city, sleeping with hot spring water at night
4. Kunming | Old street at dusk, light and shadow shuttle between past and present
5. Dali | Under Cangshan Mountain, enjoy a full moon over Erhai Lake
6. Dali | Cai Village, turn into an alley, back to old times
7. Dali | Erhai Lake road trip, searching for Erhai blue
8. Dali | Town street sweep day, towns along Erhai Lake all have names so pleasant you won't forget
9. Dali | Tea Horse Road, remnants of eons of change
10. Dali | Tea picking on Cangshan Mountain, boating on Erhai Lake
11. Dali | Erhai Lake by your side, starry night in the northern hemisphere
12. Dali | Walking alleys in Xizhou town, tie-dye little time
13. Deqin | Meili Snow Mountain star-chasing night, stars linked to sunrise
14. Written at the end
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