Body and Soul, One Is Always on the Road – My Travelogue (Part 2)

Just at this moment, I found you right by my side. Just at this moment, I realized your face is gone. I can forget everything except your face. Everything can change, just let me see you one more time. — "A Moment" by Xiao Qian. This tune can be heard in every street and alley of Dali and Lijiang. It’s an original Lijiang song, paired with the rhythm of hand drums, like the Lijiang divine song "Little Apple." Every shop is tapping, every shop has a beautiful female owner, never tired. But this leisurely pace leaves a deep impression on every traveler. Day 3 – Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon: See Dali. I couldn’t even look at myself when I got up. Yesterday I was too cocky, completely ignoring the plateau’s UV rays, I gave myself a free pair of sunglasses. Still had flower cake and yogurt for breakfast. After eating, checked out and set off for Dali Old Town. Shuanglang to Dali Old Town is about 60 kilometers. Actually, the two places face each other across the lake, but there is no ferry, so everyone takes buses. Minibus 15/person, shared van 25/person. The three of us were also lucky—we happened to meet a driver going to Xia Guan to pick someone up, and he took us directly to the old town. From shared ride it became a private car. By the way, the Bai people in Dali are really warm and hospitable. In a little over an hour we arrived at the east gate of Dali Old Town, by the Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon Hotel. The inn we booked was nearby, with a nice name—"I’m Waiting for You in Dali." Cangshan Mountain was visible right from the door. Since we all had a bit of sunburn from yesterday, we decided to join a local tour, 100/person. Take the cable car to visit Cangshan, the filming location of "The Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils," take a boat trip on Erhai Lake, and visit Bai dwellings. Thought it was worth it, but there were still shopping stops. Jade shops and snow silver—better not to buy. Travel, you know. If you want to buy things when traveling to Dali and Lijiang, you can consult the inn owner, but he will definitely make money off you too. With a tour group, it’s a huge rip-off. Cangshan Cable Car. Many people in Dali ask where Cangshan is. The 17 peaks along Erhai Lake are all called Cangshan. Among the wind, flowers, snow, and moon, the snow is the snow of Cangshan. Going up the mountain, there is only one large karst cave called Tianlong Cave. Inside is the outdoor set of the 2002 Zhang Jizhong version of "The Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils." The fairy sister—again everyone can only stay for 10 seconds. The scenic area has someone taking photos, I hate this forced consumption the most. Most annoying: I finished taking photos for them and they just left... they left... I didn’t even get a close encounter with the fairy sister. That night I watched "Day Day Up" and got even angrier—good cabbages were all given to pigs. Tianlong Cave is over 500 meters long, on Cangshan Mountain at an altitude of 2500 meters. The first 200 meters is where Duan Yu found the Lingbo Weibu and Beiming Divine Art after falling off a cliff. The latter half is uphill, with the Buddhist "Eight Divisions of Demons and Gods" (basically a bunch of calcified fossils). But after exiting Tianlong Cave, you can view Erhai Lake from Cangshan. After passing Duan Gongzi’s portrait, there is a straight stone staircase leading out of the cave. Overlooking Erhai Lake, a panoramic view of Dali. After leaving Cangshan, the guide took us into shops. Everyone knows about shopping. So I don’t like group tours—half an hour of sightseeing, all day shopping. Think about it: Yibin group tour for 6 days to Lijiang and Dali, including flights, only 700 yuan, covering food, accommodation, and transportation. My independent travel just for airfare was over 1000, but you get what you pay for. Eventually you have to buy things you don’t really need. Two shopping stops took 3 hours, total rip-off. Finally we took the boat to cruise Erhai Lake. The wind was super strong. The boat was small. The guide said if you join the tour before 10 am, you get a big cruise ship; after 10 am, only small boats. The clouds were very beautiful. Standing on the ground felt so close to the sky. Finally I saw the moon—wind, flowers, snow, and moon. The moon over Erhai Lake appeared. After disembarking, we went to the last attraction: Bai dwellings. Dali is a Bai settlement. The Bai people are known nationwide through the movie "Five Golden Flowers." Bai women are called Golden Flowers, men are called Apeng. While resting there, a Golden Flower sister said in front of everyone that she would pay 300,000 yuan plus 10 cows to have me marry into her family. Their Bai girls like round heads, round bellies, and round bottoms... It’s just that I was sunburned red all over. Not only that, the Naxi people in Jade Dragon Snow Mountain also like fat and dark—yes, in two days I will be fat and dark. Last year when I went to Jiuzhaigou, a Tibetan mother also liked me and wanted me to stay. Am I really the male god of ethnic minorities? Leaving the Bai dwellings, a bright moon hung high. The tour ended at 8 pm, so we wandered around the old town. My camera battery died, so I used my phone. The commercial atmosphere was strong. We walked from the east gate to the south gate, bought many flower cakes to mail back. For dinner, we randomly found a Lanzhou pulled noodle place. Today’s expenses: Shuanglang to Dali bus fare 75, accommodation 125, water & snacks 48, Dali one-day tour 300, taxi back to inn 15, dinner 29, total 612. Day 4 – Asking Buddha, Turning Inward. Since we had to head to Lijiang today, we got up early to pack. I remembered last night when we saw the Three Pagodas of Chong Sheng Temple illuminated by night lights, it was so stunning. Today I thought that since we were in Dali, it would be a shame to leave without seeing them. Fumeimei couldn’t enter the temple, so she waited outside. The tickets were bought by a ticket scalper—90/person for a combined ticket, convenient. Because time was tight, we only visited the three pagodas area. Magnificent, right? Inside the Three Pagodas scenic area, don’t worry about not understanding the cultural attractions. There are many tourists and groups. You can just put on earphones and follow a guide; the guides explain well. Although I’m not a Buddhist, I still bowed, wishing everyone happiness every day. Facing the ancient temple, quietly feel its charm and the sedimentation history has given. The Three Pagodas are also famous for one thing: the reflection of the three pagodas. A guide from a certain group said, this is called "Very 6+1." Chong Sheng Temple is the symbol of Dali. Everyone can walk inside; there is an electric cart for 35/person. With legs, you can go back and forth in ten minutes. There is also a temple area inside, but we didn’t go. A thousand-year-old temple should be quite grand. In the parking lot of Chong Sheng Temple, there are many fruit sellers. If you’re in Yunnan, how can you not buy fruit? Don’t buy by the catty in tourist areas; you’ll definitely be cheated. Just ask how many you can get for 10 yuan. Plateau blueberries were 10 yuan a handful; I bargained to 10 yuan for three handfuls. Rambutans were 10 yuan for 10; I bought 16 for 10 yuan. Those Golden Flowers all said this Apeng is really good at business. There were also plateau snow pears, seedless oranges, sugar apples, green dates, Buddha’s hand, grapes, and pomegranates. Especially, they peel pomegranates for you to eat the seeds or squeeze juice directly. Fruit lovers will be thrilled here. This was what I bought for 20 yuan. I forgot to take photos of some. After eating the fruit, I checked the time—12 pm. There was still some time, so I went to Yangren Street again. Seeing drum-beating girls, I couldn’t help but go up and take photos. They cooperated when they saw someone shooting. In the old town, daydreaming, sunbathing, browsing CDs, flirting, willow catkins floating, water flowing. A cup of coffee, and time stands still. Viewing the old town during the day, it’s even more magnificent. There were also mythical beasts, but I didn’t encounter Big Master and Second Master from the movie, though I did run into them later in Lijiang. After the tour, I took a taxi back to the previous inn to get my luggage. The inn owner even saw us off, great service. Originally I planned to take a train to Lijiang, so that I could experience all transportation modes on this trip. But my mobile ticket booking didn’t go through; afraid something might happen and we couldn’t get to Lijiang, we chose to take a bus. Minibus from Dali to Lijiang, about 60/person, journey about 3 hours (Dali to Lijiang is over 130 km). Unfortunately, the weather was beautiful in Dali, but when we arrived in Lijiang it was pouring rain, thunder and lightning. We couldn’t go out at all. Also, our original plan to go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain had to be canceled. The weather in Yunnan is truly unpredictable. I had put most of my Lijiang preparation into going to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, so I’m very disappointed. Today’s expenses: breakfast 24, taxi to Chong Sheng Temple and then to Yangren Street 40, fruit 25, taxi to bus station 65, coconut juice 30, Dali to Lijiang bus 177, Chong Sheng Temple tickets 180.