Dali Story: Encountering the Most Beautiful Autumn in Dali

After autumn arrives, where do you most want to go?

A while ago, a viral short video copy said, 'I want to drink the first cup of milk tea after autumn,' but I want my first trip after autumn, to capture the first autumn scenery.

A friend recently set off from Xiamen on a solo trip to Yunnan, one of her stops being Dali. She sent us many travel pictures. What touched me most was the tranquility of Erhai, the rustic charm of the old town, and the elegance of Cangshan.

The beauty of Yunnan lies in the slow pace of life, the unhurried time.

If Lijiang is the city of romance,

then Dali is a haven of healing.

Under blue skies and white clouds, a gentle breeze caresses your face.

Strolling along the old town's flagstone paths,

the water flows quietly by.

Here, nothing else seems to matter.

Everything slowly heals.

Feel history flowing through the wind, flowers, snow, and moon.

Itinerary: Transport: Kunming – Dali (about 2 hours by high-speed train)

Accommodation: Dali Old Town guesthouse (Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai)

Food: Wild mushroom hot pot, cured rib hot pot, native chicken rice noodles, Xizhou baba, grilled milk fan, plums

Attractions: Dali Old Town, Butterfly Spring, Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas, Erhai

Tips: 1. If taking a bus or train from Kunming to Dali, note that 'Dali' here refers not to Dali Old Town, but to Xiaguan, where the Dali prefecture government is located. From Xiaguan, you need another 13 km ride to reach Dali Old Town.

2. Dali's elevation is not high, averaging around 1,700 meters. It's warm and pleasant on sunny days, but the temperature drops sharply when it rains. So no matter when you visit Dali, always bring a piece of warm clothing.

Staying in Dali: Dali Guesthouse · Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai

We shared a car from the train station to Dali Old Town. The driver dropped us off on Renmin Road, and our booked accommodation was right there – less than ten minutes' walk (Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai).

Our guesthouse is on the lower section of Renmin Road, very convenient for eating and exploring the old town. If you're driving, it's also suitable, as the guesthouse has its own parking lot. There's no noise from Yangren Street, and no long travel like Shuanglang—it's a perfect place to stay. The tranquil mornings and lively nights create a stark contrast, which seems to be a shared trait of Lijiang and Dali. Holding a favorite book, sipping a pot of tea, sitting in a simple yet lightly luxurious guesthouse, or enjoying flowers in the courtyard, you feel completely relaxed, a unique elegance washing over you.

The guesthouse rooms are bright and clean, smelling of sunshine. The style is minimalist overall, yet simple but not plain. Soft lighting, a bathtub by the window—you can soak in the sun and in a bath, relieving all your fatigue, and life's little frustrations no longer disrupt your mood.

As for Dali, I have my own way of exploring. At dusk, I sit on the rooftop garden of the guesthouse, watching the evening glow redden the sky, stars and the moon illuminating the night. I have never seen a sky as intoxicating as Yunnan's.

Eating in Dali: Wild Mushroom Hot Pot · Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Fatty's Kitchen

For dinner, of course we had to check out Dali's popular restaurant: Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Fatty's Kitchen. But it's best to book in advance, otherwise by early evening there's already a long queue. I placed an order on a food platform first, then contacted the restaurant to reserve a spot, and after our Erhai loop ride, we went straight there to eat.

The restaurant is located beside Renmin Road in Dali Old Town, right on the main street—very easy to find. It's not as ostentatiously luxurious as one might imagine, but simple, clean, and very comfortable, with two floors in a straightforward, tasteful style.

Wild mushrooms are nature's finest gift to Yunnan. Even seasoned gourmets cannot resist their charm. In the local Yunnan food world, only wild fungi deserve the name 'junzi' (edible wild mushrooms). Cultivated varieties are merely called 'mushrooms' in their eyes. The owner told me they refer to all wild mushrooms collectively as 'jie'r' (sounds like 'jiè ér'). The broth is made with free-range chicken, then mushrooms are added and simmered until tender. The golden chicken fat enhances the mushroom aroma, and the chicken, having absorbed the mushroom broth, becomes even more delicious. As for matsutake mushrooms, A Bite of China once introduced this cooking method: heat butter in a pan until melted, then add matsutake slices and fry until slightly golden. Wait until you hear a sizzling sound, then pop it into your mouth—truly a taste of heaven. You can also try the matsutake sashimi at Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Fatty's Kitchen. This method demands the freshest ingredients.

(1) If you come to Dali, visit the Tianlong Babu Film City. Walking through the ancient-style streets, you might see Ah Zhu from Jin Yong's novels, who willingly gave her life for love and kinship, or Ah Zi, so straightforward and willfully devoted. Or the heroic and strong Xiao Feng. Then, hop on a little electric scooter and circle Erhai. The sky here is so blue, bathed in brilliant light, with not a cloud in the endless blue. Passing the small food stalls along Erhai Road—nothing soothes the heart like these scenes of everyday life. Buy a few skewers of little fish and shrimp; simple cooking is perfectly satisfying.

(2) If you come to Dali, take a walk on the flagstone roads of the old town. Wander around, chat with locals, and soak in the peaceful, unhurried rhythm of life. Then explore the alleys to hunt down Dali's famous foods like Nuodeng ham, Xizhou baba, fried milk fan, fried milk cake, and grilled er kuai—eat to your heart's content. The old town is filled with shops selling marble crafts, tie-dye, straw weaving, and other specialty products, as well as Bai-style restaurants full of local flavor. Stand by the door of a little tavern, listening to a hoarse voice sing 'Go to Dali,' or hear Jinhua joyfully singing 'By the Butterfly Spring.'

(3) If you come to Dali, visit the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas. Built during the reign of King Quan Fengyou of the Nanzhao Kingdom, when Xu Xiake arrived in Dali, he still saw 'the three pagodas standing tall, with lofty pines on all sides. To the west, one enters through the mountain gate, and there is a bell tower facing the pagodas, creating a most majestic scene.' Behind it was the main hall, and further behind, the 'Raining Pearl Guanyin Hall, a standing statue cast in bronze, three zhang high' (from Xu Xiake's Travels, Diary of a Journey through Yunnan VIII). It provides invaluable material for studying the history, religion, and culture of the Nanzhao and Dali periods.

(4) If you come to Dali, visit Butterfly Spring. Stroll in the scenic spot with its clear spring water, and keep a date with the rare and extraordinary spectacle (Butterfly Gathering). Every year during the gathering, thousands upon thousands of butterflies fly in from all directions, dancing in the air by the spring—vivid and dazzling, renowned far and wide. Watching the classic Bai people's film Five Golden Flowers will make you marvel even more at this remarkable sight of Butterfly Spring.

(5) Meet the most beautiful scenery and encounter the most romantic moments. The landscape of Erhai is like time's imprint on the years. Erhai always brings comfort, allowing you to briefly forget your worries—a perfect place to find peace. Erhai encircles the entire Dali area. The best spot to admire it is at Shuanglang, and the best time is in the afternoon or at sunset. The evening hours offer the most beautiful views of Erhai. Along the lakeside road, take photos to capture the loveliest moments, find a spacious, cool spot under a big tree, feel the breeze, listen to the water's murmur, and gaze at the rippling lake in the distance. This is probably what Dali's soft time looks like!

I sing the ballad my mother sang,

Peonies embroidered on the golden plaque.

I hum the tune my father hummed,

Herding cattle and sheep on the green, green grassland.

Ah, the butterflies with silver wings flutter around,

Chasing back those distant, ancient times.

Tales of free and brave birds are sung,

I want to stay in this city.

Perhaps because of the warm, cozy guesthouse,

Perhaps because of the heartwarming, aromatic wild mushroom hot pot,

Perhaps because of the freedom of going west to Dali,

Perhaps because the blue sky has escaped from the skyscraper city to here,

Perhaps because in the midst of wind, flowers, snow, and moon, I lazily listen to the birds sing.