A Courtyard, Friends, and My Sojourn Life in Dali
After finishing a project, I wanted a place to empty my mind. The high-speed rhythm of city living made me long for a serene sanctuary where everything slows down and I could savor the simple, down-to-earth joys of life. Yet I didn’t want to give up friendship, convenience, or nature. If there were a place that offers tranquil living away from the hustle while still close to the natural world, where would you think of? After traveling to so many places, the first one that springs to mind is Dali.
The leisurely bliss of daydreaming by Erhai Lake from dawn till sunset, the exhilarating moments of trekking over mountains with friends to overlook the city, or strolling through ancient towns and villages, stumbling upon the aroma of charcoal-grilled baba made by village folk—in Dali, happiness seems simpler. Countless people travel thousands of miles to chase that poetic faraway dream, only to find themselves drawn to this city, inadvertently staying a year and then settling for life.
Years ago, I had the fortune to experience Dali’s simplicity and grace. I never expected that revisiting this city, I would stay in a little courtyard of Dali and step into a friend’s courtyard life—baking in the sunshine, sitting around a fire under the stars, chatting and laughing. My understanding of the word “yearning” seemed to find a completely new definition and possibility. And this trip to Dali began right here, in this little courtyard.
A Courtyard, a Way of Life
Nestled by the shores of Erhai, beside the ancient town, white walls and black tiles, dark grey bricks, bamboo fences, and small bamboo chairs—as I dragged my suitcase into the guesthouse in Dali’s Little Courtyard, I felt as if I had stepped into another era, leaving all the rush and burdens outside, with only comfort filling the room and ease in my heart. Taking a deep breath, in the early autumn of November, the pure air was saturated with floral fragrances. If life as a vacation is a luxury, one can imagine that every day living here would be deeply enviable.
Climbing to the second-floor viewing deck, the morning light cast onto the rooftop. Afraid of missing any beautiful sight in Dali, I didn’t bother unpacking, just tossed my luggage in a corner and began exploring Dali’s Little Courtyard. Secluded yet accessible, it sits in the Gantong Temple area at Qili Bridge between Dali Ancient Town and Xiaguan New Town, leaning against Cangshan Mountain, facing Erhai Lake. Sheltered from noise and commotion, a stroll through it brings a naturally tranquil and ethereal feeling. Such scenery broadens the mind, and all the tension and panic from city life dissolve instantly.
Cangshan Public Library is a favorite among the artistic youth in the courtyard. Immersive stepped seating, expansive floor-to-ceiling windows, and a thoughtfully designed space make you want to snap photos for your social media, yet also worry about disturbing the cherished peace and quiet.
The library has a large collection of books. Pick one at will, bask in the warm sunlight, leaf through it slowly, and lose yourself in reading. If your eyes grow tired, just lean back lazily and gaze at Erhai for a while, unhurriedly letting time slip through your fingers. Of course, it would be even more pleasant with a cup of tea or coffee in hand.
I heard that every weekend, community events are organized here, where many artists, writers, and creatives gather to share their lives, screen an old film, or hold a small art exhibition. The existence of this little courtyard turns strangers into friends and neighbors into family. Living here, no matter how long you stay, never feels dull.
If you prefer a quirky and playful reading environment, I’d recommend the Instagram-style library in the Middle District. Less than 10 minutes’ drive from the courtyard, you’ll be greeted by a two-meter-tall pink giant giraffe surrounded by book walls.
Compared with Cangshan Public Library, this one is more relaxed and lively, with circular bookshelves overlapping and a barrel-shaped slide linking the two reading levels. If it weren’t for the café staff around, I would have taken a ride for sure!
The landscape on the lawn opposite the library was a pleasant surprise on this library trip. White frames stacked in layered patterns—walking through them, every snapshot turns into a stunning photo.
The phrase “Come occasionally, or stay forever” really tugs at the heartstrings. Strolling around the model rooms nearby always tempts you to stay.
By the time I returned to my guesthouse courtyard, it was already noon, and my hungry stomach couldn’t wait for the “complication” of cooking a meal. The Village Canteen was a great alternative. Right below Cangshan Public Library, it’s also part of the services in Dali’s Little Courtyard. The skilled chef team prepares dishes according to the season, so you can savor Dali’s flavors without stepping out of the canteen. Lazybones, you’re in for a treat!
A day in the little courtyard is beautifully simple: woken by crisp bird songs, greeting the first rays of Dali’s morning sun; in the afternoon, holding a beloved book and sipping a clear tea, idling away half the day; at night, heading to Dali’s alleyway commercial street for a craft ale, and looking up to find a sky bursting with stars. Isn’t this your ideal life?
Poetry (Feasting) and Wine While We’re Still Young
Where there are friends, there is always a strong sense of belonging. When visiting an old friend, it’s nice to bring a “gift.” The morning market is the best choice.
Dali’s early market bustles with life. Shops on both sides leading to the market sell hardware sundries, peach blossom wine, snack stands, and an old auntie hawking Sichuan peppercorns by her doorstep—the rich aroma of everyday life, long missed. The way people buy groceries here is wonderfully “down-to-earth”: locals carry big baskets, pick their produce, pay, and toss it over their shoulder briskly. I bought a bunch of fresh flowers at the market entrance, wrapped simply in old newspaper—Maizi would surely love it.
My friend, Maizi, used to work in planning at a multinational company. She left Shenzhen for Dali in 2015 and made her home in Dali’s Little Courtyard. Leaning on Cangshan, facing Erhai, it had her beloved kitchen, too. Maizi’s bakery is her home in the courtyard; a resident kitten greeted me.
After meandering to the very end, my old friend Maizi lives right in Dali’s Little Courtyard. Her favorite kitchen and the adorable cat welcomed me at the door.
Because of busy work, we’d gotten used to rushing in the morning—grabbing a coffee and a pastry from a café and calling it breakfast. But in Dali, at Maizi’s home, everything slowed down, making a fine, delicious breakfast a reality.
The fresh fruit I’d casually bought at the morning market came in handy. Blueberries and strawberries, washed and diced, under Chef Maizi’s guidance, I spread the batter on the cooking machine, sifted powder for decoration, and my first waffle experiment was a success! Looking at the plated result, I could hardly believe I made it myself—felt like I could open a shop! In truth, giving yourself one hour every morning brings not just a healthy, tasty breakfast, but a full day of happiness.
Let me share Maizi’s exclusive waffle recipe. First, prepare the ingredients (yield: 2 servings | Little Red Waffle Maker | Time: 6 minutes): 1 egg, 150g cake flour, 3g baking powder, 10g sugar, 15g corn oil, 200g milk, 2 drops vanilla extract. Steps for the batter: 1. Crack the egg into a mixing bowl, add sugar and vanilla extract, stir well. 2. Pour in milk and mix thoroughly until the yolk and white are integrated. 3. Take the milk; pour 60ml of it into another bowl. 4. Measure 150g flour, mix with 50g cake flour, add a little salt, pour into the empty bowl, and stir. 5. Add the prepared milk and warm butter, mix thoroughly while adding, until a smooth, thick batter forms. Baking steps: 1. Preheat the waffle iron for 2 minutes. 2. Brush with a layer of corn oil (or cooking oil). 3. Pour batter to cover the waffle iron and heat until the light goes off, about 6-10 minutes. 4. Let cool slightly for extra crunch, then garnish with fruit.
After eating, I went with Maizi to check out the countryside kitchen she’s planning. Here, the aesthetics of living and nature blend seamlessly, with exquisite home accessories that enhance the sense of ritual. The garden was planted with all kinds of herbs with intriguing names, and I tasted them one by one with Maizi. Blue sky, white clouds, wooden hut, green grass, plus the delicate home decorations—living aesthetics and nature merged here, as if I’d stumbled into a Studio Ghibli animated world.
A Leisurely Life, Hidden Gems in a Small Town
At dawn the next day, it was the perfect time to ascend Cangshan through the clouds. With nothing pressing, on a whim, I took a cable car to the top of Cangshan to seek out the “Zhenlong Puzzle.”
The Zhenlong Puzzle originates from a fictional episode in Jin Yong’s martial arts masterpiece “Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils.” It was created by Wu Yazi, the head of the Xiaoyao Sect, who wanted to use this chess puzzle to find a gifted disciple. Aerial drone footage revealed the giant chess formation nestled among green pines and sturdy trees, instantly conjuring the martial arts world of “Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils”: the flash of swords, vengeance and grace, the vicissitudes of earthly life, lost in thought.
Descending from the Cangshan cable car, a roughly 10-minute walk along a secluded mountain path led to the gate of Jizhao Nunnery. The whole courtyard lacks the solemnity of typical temples and has no incense smoke. Succulents thrive in abundance with a great variety, complemented by other flowers and plants. It feels more like a personal garden tended by someone with a love for gardening. We had our lunch here. Don’t underestimate the vegetarian meals; despite the rugged mountain path, they draw crowds. Before 11 a.m., a long queue had already formed at the serving area. Although the door hadn’t opened yet, the aromas wafted out. Over a dozen dishes to choose from, self-service until you’re full, but note: you must not waste any food—one grain of rice left earns you a stick of incense as penance while kneeling. Please “act within your means” when you visit, haha! TIPS: Follow the road up from Gantong intersection to reach the Cangshan Geological Park parking lot; you can walk to Gantong Temple, Jizhao Nunnery, Dayun Hall, and Boluo Temple. Wuwu Temple is north of the Three Pagodas tunnel, cars can drive to the parking lot. Average cost: Jizhao Nunnery 20 yuan/person, some temples accept donations. Recommendation: a great weekend outing—you can climb and enjoy the views, or sit quietly and reflect.
To the east of the Little Courtyard, a winding path leads to a secluded “village.” After leaving Jizhao Nunnery, we decided to visit the Tea Horse Road. Fengyangyi Village has been a post station on the Dali ancient post road since the Yuan Dynasty, as well as part of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road. The moment you reach the village entrance, you feel transported to another time; mottled white walls seem to pull you into the past.
In the village, there’s a courtyard near a mountain covered with catalpa trees, hence named Qiuyuan. Every brick and tile is sourced locally—simple, unadorned, yet exquisite. From the second-floor terrace of the old courtyard, you can gaze out at Erhai Lake. Wooden railings and earthen stone walls intertwine, and the old handmade trinkets are very charming. The owner’s family is very zen-like; a café hidden in the grass is open entirely at the owner’s whim, its availability a matter of fate. On several visits, I was met with a closed door; such an easygoing attitude, I can’t help but envy it. Coming to Dali, how could one miss Xizhou? Compared with the bustling Dali Ancient Town, I love Xizhou’s simplicity and tranquility even more. Though it’s winter and the rice has been harvested, the barren pastoral scenery is still intoxicating, and one can even imagine how splendid it would be covered with rice paddies in summer.
As an area inhabited by the Bai people since the coexistence of the Six Zhao and Heman periods, Xizhou Ancient Town’s architecture is most worth exploring. The traditional Bai dwellings typically take the form of three-sided or four-sided courtyards. The three-bay “fang” is the basic building unit. A three-sided courtyard is a common combination, consisting of three fangs and a screen wall, called “three fangs and one screen wall.” Between the gables of two fangs, side rooms and a small corner courtyard are added. A four-sided courtyard is formed by four fangs enclosing a space, with corner courtyards at each corner, plus the central courtyard, called “four courtyards and five skywells.” From these, courtyards with two to four or five layers can be formed, called “layered courtyards.” Wandering around Xizhou Ancient Town, the streets and old buildings at corners are very photogenic, especially the wall of Xilin Garden, with Bai-style architecture and the blue sky, a popular spot for visitors to Xizhou.
The interior artistic decorations are also exquisite, with eave screen walls, woodcarved doors and windows, marble paintings, colorful engravings on ancient wells, all meticulous and marvelous. Besides the distinctive Bai architecture, you can’t miss the local cuisine. To find good food, head to Sifang Street, which is the center of Xizhou Town and the lively hub of this quiet town; various food stalls have turned it into a small plaza. The most familiar item is Xizhou baba, also called “posu.” Several long-established shops have long lines, all made and sold on the spot in batches. I recall years ago, they only had two flavors: sweet with rose brown sugar, and savory with minced pork and scallion. Now, many innovative flavors have emerged.
Finding “It” After Searching Far and Wide
In Dali, scenery is everywhere. If you have ample time to stay in Dali, rather than Shuanglang with its “internet celebrity” aura, I would recommend the Bansi Ferry on the west route around the lake. The Erhai there is serene and gentle, with winding shoreline boardwalk, a solitary old tree standing still, and a light breeze creating ripples—so beautiful you can’t move your feet. Countless times, seeing locals walking their dogs by the sea, I feel a sudden, inexplicable envy. This time, I realized my dream: I took my neighbor’s dog for a walk along Erhai. This golden retriever named “Yuanbao” had even appeared in an ad with Ouyang Nana. Sitting by the sea listening to music, petting the dog, sunbathing, and enjoying the sea breeze, buying a coffee to sit under a tree and zone out—the sea a deep blue, plants vivid green, time seemed to freeze, and my body and mind were completely at ease. But Erhai isn’t just this familiar peaceful face. The usual stereotype of Dali is Cangshan and Erhai, pastoral idyll, but standing by Xingsheng Bridge, Dali’s modernity, fashion, and multidimensionality are fully on display. Exquisite classical bridge pier sculptures and the ultimate romance of an art bridge à la Paris give this bridge a power that seems to transcend time and borders. Walking under Xingsheng Bridge feels like walking in Europe, a place you can’t visit now but can feast your eyes on in Dali.
In the afternoon, it was time to visit my “secret base” in Dali Ancient Town. Hidden deep in what tourists see as a bustling “must-see attraction,” the Bed Sheet Factory has a unique flavor. It’s a very artsy zone in Dali. Once a bed sheet factory in the 1990s, it was transformed into an art park in 2014, home to many special handcraft shops, cafés, galleries, and more, probably the most artistic corner of Dali Ancient Town. Zazi is one of my favorite little shops. Pushing the door open, soft blues music, quiet and cozy, the interior décor full of vintage, worn-in charm; every nook is a collector’s dream. The cabinets display cups, small bowls, and ornaments from all over the world, each weathered by time, telling its own story. Another spot in Xiaguan, the Oasis Museum, is also a small café worth checking out. Keeping the original structure and industrial style of the factory building, the interior adds a multitude of greenery, infusing a tropical rainforest vibe into the industrial design. The softness of nature with the coolness of industry, the lingering aroma of coffee with the taste-bud-tingling Southeast Asian notes—a double sensory impact. I believe every photography lover won’t let a limited-edition sunset chase pass. This time, the rarely visited Dafengba was our ultimate destination. Without local guidance and no clear navigation signs, after two hours and countless trial-and-error detours by luck, we finally found this expansive meadow. Beneath wind turbines, mountain shadows intertwine, the city panorama unfolding underfoot. In that instant, it felt like the whole world was ours. This place witnesses the prosperity and changes of Xiaguan City, and also countless couples’ happiest moments, enamored with romance and freedom. Watching their silhouettes in the sunset, “La La Land” seemed to echo in my ears—a Dali version of “La La Land”? It’s got the vibe! This short three-day trip is really just a fleeting snapshot of the Dali living experience. The marketplace’s earthy bustle, the time with friends in the courtyard, every second was beautiful. “Come occasionally” is just the beginning; once you’ve soaked in all Dali’s scenery, sought hidden gems in the small town, and explored ancient streets and old lanes like I did, you’ll want to stay in Dali for good. If you now have a chance to get to know the southwest and step into Dali, will your heart be stirred?
