Exploring Western Yunnan

On November 27, 2020, I joined a group tour with my travel buddy 'Old Chen Junior' to start our journey through western Yunnan. The itinerary can be simply divided into three phases: first, Mangshi, Ruili, and Tengchong; second, the Nujiang Grand Canyon and Dulong River; third, Weishan, Nanjian, and Wuliang Mountain.

Since we started from Dali, we first flew from Shanghai to Kunming.

November 28:

Today was the assembly day. We took the high-speed train to Dali in the morning. Since tickets for last night were sold out, we didn't expect to get a 145-yuan ticket for only 60 yuan this time. After arriving in Dali, we arranged our own tour for the day: first, visit the ancient city, then climb Cangshan Mountain, then visit the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, go to Shenkan Pier, and stroll along the shore of Erhai Lake. At night, we enjoyed the night view of the ancient city.

Scenery along the high-speed rail

Gate tower and street view of Dali Ancient City

Landmark building 'Wuhua Tower' in the ancient city

Visited the museum. Dali was once the capital of Nanzhao Kingdom and Dali Kingdom, and was reintegrated into the map after the Ming Dynasty. It has a long history and profound cultural heritage, so there are many highlights.

Scenes in the ancient city

'No Cangshan, no Dali.' Cangshan was one of our destinations. We hailed a taxi from the South Gate for just over 20 yuan to reach the Gantong Temple cable car station.

Gantong Temple, located halfway up the mountain, was conveniently visited along the way.

The autumn colors on the mountain were picturesque.

Cangshan has three cable car lines; we chose the Gantong cable car. This is the view of Cangshan and Erhai from the cable car.

After getting off the cable car, we hired a car for 30 yuan to the nearby 'Chongsheng Three Pagodas Temple'.

Revisited the 'Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple' (To capture the reflection, I struggled to find a pond, unaware there was a 'Reflection Park'?)

Leaving the Three Pagodas Temple, we wanted to walk along Erhai Lake. We randomly selected a Shenkan Pier and called a Didi car, and it turned out to be the right choice.

This is the lakeside promenade of Erhai, with beautiful scenery!

The night view of the South Gate of the ancient city.

Xiaochen still can't forget the clay pot fish at 'Bamuxuan Bai Ethnic Cuisine Restaurant'.

Stayed at the quaint 'Yilin Pavilion Hotel'.

November 29:

Today we met the other four tourists: a couple from Zhuhai, Guangdong, and another couple from Qingdao, Shandong. There were two drivers, one surnamed He, Naxi ethnicity. With a nine-seat car, we officially began our 11-day exploration of western Yunnan.

The first phase of the itinerary: attractions in Mangshi, Ruili, and Tengchong. The car drove along the Hangzhou-Ruili Expressway, winding through the mountains almost all day. The weather was perfect, a stark contrast to Shanghai's recent chilly and overcast days, with tropical scenery everywhere.

First attraction: 'Tree-Wrapped Pagoda'. An ancient pagoda from the Qianlong era, entwined and enveloped by a bodhi tree, a true wonder.

'Meng Huan Grand Golden Pagoda' is built on Leirang Mountain. Meng Huan is another name for Mangshi. Legend has it that Buddha Sakyamuni once practiced here. It was rebuilt in 2004.

Along the national highway, the 'Single Tree Forest' attraction in Ruili. (There is also a Single Tree Forest attraction in Xishuangbanna.)

The invasive parasitic tree takes over the host tree's nest.

November 30:

Last night we stayed at Ruili Shenglinxuan Hotel. We had to search around for dinner. Today we will visit some nearby attractions: Jiegao Border Gate, One Village Two Countries, Molly Tropical Forest Park, then head back to Tengchong.

Morning in the border town of Ruili

Bridge spanning the border

Border gate – Jiegao

One Village Two Countries: a typical geographical wonder where a single village is divided by the border. The border line splits a Dai village in two; the Chinese side is called Yinjing, and the Myanmar side is called Mangxiu.

The 'One Village Two Countries' attraction witnesses the deep friendship between China and Myanmar.

'Molly Tropical Forest Park' is not far from G320 National Highway and covers a large area. The scenic area is pristine: towering trees, blooming flowers, waterfalls and springs, fresh air. It's a tropical rainforest valley with a combination of rainforest vegetation and waterfall streams, exceeding my expectations.

This is exactly the place.

Yunnan is a kingdom of plants. Here we saw many tropical plants, and the streams and waterfalls were also spectacular.

The Longjiang Bridge is a key transportation project in southwestern Yunnan. It is a super-large bridge with a total length of 2,470 meters and towers 170 meters high, very impressive. Since we couldn't get close, the photo didn't do it justice. (Below is a deep canyon.)

The car crossed the Longjiang Bridge.

Jiangdong Ginkgo Village is located 37 kilometers north of Tengchong city center, adjacent to the National Volcanic Geological Park. The scenic area includes four natural villages: Chenjiazhai, Baxin, Jiangyun, and Sihe, with over 10,000 acres of continuous ginkgo forests and more than 30,000 ginkgo trees, famous for this. We arrived at the right time; the scenic area was crowded with tourists.

By the time we reached Ginkgo Village, it was already dark. But the intoxicating scene of 'village in the forest, tree in the home, people in the painting' made us eager and unable to resist.

December 1:

Last night we stayed at Hezeyuan Inn in Chenjiazhai. Free time in the morning, departure at 11:00. We used this time to traverse the alleys of the core area, taking many photos. It felt like everywhere was covered in gold, a city of golden armor. There were many attractions to see today. The nearby 'Volcanic Park' was closed for rectification due to an accident yesterday. In the afternoon, we would visit the 'Western Yunnan Anti-Japanese Memorial Hall' and Die Waterfall, then go to Heshun Ancient Town for lodging.

Dawn – photographed from Guyang Temple mountain

1,300-year-old ginkgo king

There was a live stream here last night.

Ginkgo Village's unique scenery lives up to its reputation and left a deep impression.

In the afternoon, we visited the 'Western Yunnan Anti-Japanese Memorial Hall' and paid homage at the 'National Memorial Cemetery of the Fallen'. At the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War, Yunnan organized the Dian army to rush to the Shanghai battlefields. During the war, they guarded the rear and organized the Expeditionary Force, writing a heroic chapter in history. Today, many young compatriots, holding yellow flowers, bowed and observed a moment of silence in front of the martyrs' tombs, expressing respect and grief. It was very moving. A strong youth makes a strong China; may the motherland prosper every year.

The National Memorial Cemetery of the Fallen houses nearly 10,000 fallen soldiers from the Anti-Japanese War, most of whom were teenagers under 20, very touching!

Tengchong Die Waterfall is located 2 kilometers west of the city. The Die River encounters a cliff here, dropping 46 meters into a deep pool below, with thunderous sounds and splashing water, creating a spectacle of 'flowers scatter without bows and arrows'.

This is a unique waterfall within the city. As we walked and looked back, we found ourselves in a canyon waterfall scenic area.

Heshun Ancient Town is not far from the city center. It is one of China's famous ancient towns, with a population of over 6,000 people. However, there are over 12,000 registered overseas Chinese, making it a famous hometown of overseas Chinese. Because the locals value farming, poetry, and books, and the governance is harmonious, the name 'Heshun' means harmony and smoothness.

The ancient town is set against a mountain and beside a lake, surrounded by wetlands, with excellent topography. The architecture has distinctive ethnic features, built on the mountain with varying heights, forming a beautiful landscape painting.

Small bridges and flowing water by the ancient town

Pastoral scenery outside the ancient town

Tengchong is known for its jade, and Heshun has even more.

Stayed at the 'Family Culture' Inn in the ancient town.

December 2:

Today's itinerary includes the ancient town as well as the Rehai (Hot Sea) scenic area in Tengchong. Then we need to rush to Lushui City, the capital of the Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture, for lodging. At 8:00, just before dawn, we went out to take photos. Last night we went west, this morning east. We covered the walking paths, Longtan, Yuanlong Pavilion, Li Clan Ancestral Hall, Liu Clan Ancestral Hall, and Ai Siqi Memorial Hall in one go.

Sunrise in the east, beautiful scenes one after another.

Li Clan Ancestral Hall, classical and solemn.

Mist over Longtan resembling a dragon emerging from the water.

Former residence of modern Chinese philosopher Ai Siqi

Heshun Library – a model for rural libraries

On the town's streets, the commercial atmosphere was strong.

At noon, we drove to the 'Rehai' scenic area. Due to many volcanoes around Tengchong, numerous hot springs have formed, and Rehai is the most prominent. Geothermal activity is frequent here, with many hot springs densely distributed in the valley, reaching temperatures of over 100 degrees Celsius. There are also intermittent geysers. As we approached the valley, steam rose everywhere, especially at the Big Boiling Pot, where raw eggs cook in a short time, another highlight.

Sulfur pool, the air filled with the smell of rotten eggs.

Intermittent geyser, reaching several meters high, erupting every few seconds.

Leaving Tengchong, passing Baoshan, crossing the Lancang River, and entering Provincial Highway 230, we entered the Lisu and Nu autonomous prefecture.

As we passed Lushui City (also known as Liuku Town), the street lights were coming on.

We stayed at the 'Haodu Century Hotel' under the viaduct.

November 3:

Today we will travel north along the Nujiang Gorge, passing Fugong, Gongshan, and finally reaching Bingzhongluo, the northernmost part of Yunnan. This will be the longest drive of the trip. We drove deep into the grand canyon, with the Gaoligong Mountains on the left and the Biluo Snow Mountains on the right. On both sides of the Nujiang River, we saw villages in the clouds, nearby streams and waterfalls, and iron suspension bridges flashing by... Travel is about the journey.

Flying Stone (On March 19, 1983, early morning, a huge meteorite fell into the courtyard of the Fugong Ethnic Middle School teacher dormitory. The dozen teachers sleeping in bed were unharmed. Where the stone came from remains unexplained.)

Scenery captured while driving

Stone Moon – a masterpiece of nature

Bingzhongluo viewing platform

November 4:

Today we will stay in Bingzhongluo for a day. Bingzhongluo Town is located at the northernmost tip of Yunnan Province, and further north is Chayu County, Tibet. It is also a necessary passage to enter Tibet and go to Deqin. Unfortunately, a few kilometers from the Tibetan checkpoint, we encountered road construction and had to turn back.

Today's attractions: Shimen, Wuli Village, and Qiunatong.

Bingzhongluo in the early morning: misty, dreamlike, like a fairyland.

Wuli Village is on the opposite bank of the river, a small village connected by an iron suspension bridge. According to fellow travelers, it's best to go early in the morning when the mist over the river envelops the village, appearing and disappearing, which is the most beautiful view. Unfortunately, our two driver buddies weren't photography enthusiasts; they just dropped us off and considered it done. There is also an ancient tea-horse road leading to Tibet, built along the cliff, very perilous.

Wuli Village on the opposite bank

Iron suspension bridge and pack animal team

Primitive villages, far from the world.

Driving further up, we soon reached 'Qiunatong'. 'Tong' in the Nu and Lisu languages means peace and safety, extended to mean a settlement place. This is a vast mountainous area, with large green fields exposed, stilted houses, and stone slab houses, as if entering a fairy tale paradise.

Temple + church at the village entrance

Visited temples near Bingzhongluo again.

November 5:

Today we will go to the mysterious Dulong River. Before departure, the driver said the road was difficult and nine-seater cars couldn't pass, implying he didn't want to go. After much negotiation, we finally dispelled his doubts. Actually, the road was quite good (perhaps because the tunnel has been built).

The Dulong River lies on the other side of the Gaoligong Mountains, with the Gaoligong Mountains to the east and the Dandanglika Mountains to the west, forming a world wonder of four parallel rivers. Due to its inaccessibility and unique landscapes, it has become a popular destination for backpackers.

Crossing the Gaoligong Mountains

High mountain pass, spectacular in all weathers

Recent snowfall made it even more enchanting.

After four to five hours of driving, we finally reached a place called 'Pukawang'. Actually, Pukawang is a tourist distribution center. When we arrived, the driver rested, and the tourists were free to roam.

Road of colorful splendor

The clear, emerald green water of the Dulong River

Villages with suspension bridges and wooden houses (Myanmar beyond the mountain)

A scene of Dulong River Town

November 6:

We didn't go to Longyuan Village, we didn't see the tattooed women. It was already late when we returned to Gongshan county town. We checked into Suyun Hotel with regret but went out early to explore, strolling along the Nujiang River and the cliff carvings. Today we will return to Zhiziluo and Laomudeng.

Gongshan County riverside square

Near the Shiyue Liang service area

Zhiziluo was once the county seat of Bijiang County, and in 1954 it became the seat of the Lisu Autonomous Prefecture. In 1974, the prefecture government moved, leaving it a ghost town. So to see architectural styles from the 1960s and 70s, this is a living fossil. However, I think the history and scenery here are even more impressive.

A town built on a high mountain

The streets remain; life in the past was truly tough.

The road opposite the canyon was more difficult than the Shu roads (photographed from the top of a toilet)

Abandoned and desolate houses

Laomudeng means 'purple bamboo place' in the Nu language. It is located on the hillside east of the Nujiang River, not far from Zhiziluo. The scenery is beautiful, and the entire village looks like a farm stay, with hotels and houses everywhere. We stayed at 'Shanjugega Guesthouse', which had a mountain-view room. Sitting on the balcony, we could see the entire Nujiang Gorge. In the evening, the six travel buddies had a meal nearby, ordering a stewed old hen – a delightful time.

The yellow three-story building is ours.

Behind is the Biluo Snow Mountain range.

In front is the Huangkong Peak of the Gaoligong Mountains.

Laomudeng viewing platform

November 7:

Today we will leave Laomudeng for Weishan Ancient Town in Dali Prefecture. Driving along the Nujiang Gorge, passing Lushui, then Dali, the only stop along the way is the famous 'Bathhouse Gathering'.

Weishan Ancient Town was the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom, later moved to Dali City. It is the birthplace of the Nanzhao Kingdom, with many things to see. We stayed at Weishan Menghua Hotel.

Along the way, we saw many relocated public housing buildings.

A sightseeing walking path is under construction.

Hot spring pools by the Nujiang River. Every New Year, these pools are packed with people of all ages bathing naked, washing away the bad luck of the past year and welcoming the new year.

Passing through Lushui City, a new look everywhere.

Photos taken from the car.

Especially as we approached Weishan, the stretch of land extending for dozens of kilometers was the most fertile land I've seen in Yunnan, also the most beautiful pastoral scenery.

Weishan Ancient Town is located in Weishan County, south of Dali. It is also known as Nanzhao Ancient Town, the early capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom. The buildings in Weishan Ancient Town are well-preserved, including Gongchen Tower, Xinggong Tower, Xuanzhu Temple, and other historical sites with southwestern characteristics. It can be called a museum of the Nanzhao Kingdom. Its streets are first-class.

The only remaining north gate tower

Xinggong Tower in the center of the ancient town

Stone-paved streets, commercial streets

The former imperial city, the former county office, now the government.

November 8:

In the morning, we continued sightseeing in the ancient town. Just after dawn, we went to Mengyang Park, the West Gate Diaolou, Confucius Temple, Weishan Museum, Xie Family Compound, etc. At 11:00, we drove to Nanjian Earth Forest Scenic Area, then to Wuliang Mountain to see cherry blossoms, staying at Wuliang Town Luoyuanju Hotel.

Nanzhao Museum (Weishan Museum)

Ming Dynasty screen in the collection

Two architectural styles within the city

Nanjian Earth Forest is located in Nanjian County, Dali Prefecture. First, we climbed the mountain to Wanshou Pagoda, then turned into the earth forest, and walked along the boardwalk. This is a magical palace of nature's sculpture, as if entering a mysterious fairyland. Free admission is also a unique feature.

Like flutes and curtains, indescribably wonderful.

Wuliang Mountain Cherry Blossom Valley is located in Wuliang Town, Nanjian County, Dali Prefecture. The average altitude is 2,175 meters. From November to December each year, tens of thousands of winter cherry blossoms planted in the tea gardens bloom simultaneously, creating a fairyland on earth with a myriad of red dots among the green.

We were a bit late (the buds had already withered)

Cherry blossoms in the tea garden

Cherry blossoms in Scenic Area No. 2

November 9:

Today is the last day of the group tour. Before dawn, we went to Wuliang Mountain to photograph the sunrise, then returned to the hotel for breakfast. Around 2:00 PM, we arrived in Dali and disbanded.

Our flight was on the evening of the 10th, from Kunming to Shanghai, meaning we had a full day free. We set our next destination as Dali Shuanglang Ancient Town.

Sunrise – photographed from viewing platform No. 2

As the sun rose, the cherry blossoms appeared even more vibrant red against the dark green tea garden.

After the group members arrived in Dali, some flew back to Qingdao the same day, while others joined the second leg of the trip. The two of us took a bus from Dali's North Bus Station to Shuanglang Ancient Town and checked into 'Chun Nuan Hua Kai Seaside Inn'. For 164 yuan we got a sea-view room, very happy.

After checking in, we went to Yuji Island and other places, just in time for the best light. Shuanglang Town truly deserves its reputation as the best vacation destination!