Yunnan: I love the poetic beauty of Dali, where sea and sky merge, and the antique grace and tranquil charm of Lijiang

July 31, overcast turning to light rain

9:00am, the train brought us to Dali (Xiaguan).

Usually, Dali refers to Dali Ancient Town, which is still 20km from Xiaguan town.

Right outside the train station, we took bus No. 8, a one-hour ride to the terminal at the east gate of the ancient town.

We got off at Caicun intersection, switched to bus No. 2, and arrived at Caicun Pier.

For my 3-day stay in Dali, I chose accommodation right by Erhai Lake.

Caicun is the seaside village closest to the ancient town.

This lake-view inn has a bold slogan: "I lean on Erhai Lake!"

Standard room: 108 yuan.

The sky gradually cleared up. After checking in, we couldn't wait to go to the rooftop and take photos.

From the rooftop, looking out at Erhai Lake, the sky wasn't very blue, but it was so pure.

In the afternoon, we headed to Dali Ancient Town. Caicun is 5km from the town, 20 yuan by taxi.

The first thing we did in the ancient town: Donggua did what every artsy young person must do – got colorful braids!

(In Dali, 10 yuan for 3 braids; in Lijiang, 10 yuan for 8 braids.)

The second thing: went to eat my absolute favorite – rose grilled milk fan,

with slightly sour milk fan wrapped around rose jam, grilled until fragrant and super delicious, 5 yuan each.

Once you leave Dali, you can't find it anymore.

A quick street snap to mark the visit.

Dali Ancient Town has over 1,200 years of history, and at its center stands Wuhua Tower.

Looking down in peak season: people, people, people, people Dali people, people, people, people.

Walk further, and you reach the liveliest South Gate, with the characters 'Dali' inscribed by Guo Moruo.

August 1, overcast turning to light rain. Right outside the inn is Caicun Wetland Park.

I especially love these rocks in Erhai Lake – a must-visit every time I come to Dali.

They change their appearance with the water levels each season, always offering something new.

This year, all small boats on Erhai Lake have been banned.

If only I could sit in a little boat and drift to the middle of the lake at dawn or dusk – that would be so beautiful.

Bougainvillea peeking out from someone's courtyard is blooming brilliantly.

After a morning of fun in Caicun, after lunch, we took a bus to Xizhou to drop off our luggage at the hotel.

Then we rented an electric scooter – Donggua driving, me taking photos – and started our ride around the lake!

Erhai is not a sea, but the best scenery in Dali is along its shores.

The full loop around Erhai is 125km; from Xizhou to Caicun and back is 40km.

We meandered along the West Ring Road, stopping here and there, and every stop was stunning.

The weather in Dali changes even faster than my moods.

Though the weather wasn't cooperating – no blue skies or white clouds, and often a drizzle – the temperature was just right.

Erhai under overcast clouds has a unique charm.

We kept riding forward, passing stretches of lush green rice paddies, humming a tune to match our mood.

By Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, you were by my side.

This summer feels different from before.

As the bicycle passes through the fields, you softly sing.

When I open my eyes, only photos remain.

The streets we once held hands on are right before me.

Passersby are just like we were back then.

I truly can never be with you forever,

but I will smile when I think of you far away.

The coachmen urging their horses, people strolling through the alleys, the elderly chatting in the pavilions –

the unhurried rhythm of Xizhou Ancient Town.

P.S. Entering Xizhou Ancient Town through the main gate costs a 60-yuan ticket, but you can bypass it by going a few hundred meters further along Dali Line and entering for free.

We stayed at an inn a 10-minute drive from Xizhou Ancient Town.

Though a bit remote, the scenery and atmosphere were wonderful.

The owner is an art collector, and the whole hotel is decorated with an artistic touch.

King-size bed room, 320 yuan.

An absolute must-see: the big waterwheel at the north gate of the ancient town,

the first thing everyone sees when arriving in Lijiang Old Town.

No more weathered tales, just the constant stream of people coming and going.

Next to the waterwheel, Dongba wish bells hang in dazzling abundance,

carrying the secret wishes of everyone's heart.

Sifang Street is the central little square of the old town,

the noisiest and most bustling spot.

I love the old town at 7 am, far less commercialized and so much more serene and ancient.

The wet flagstone paths, the distant mountains veiled in mist.

But other than waking up early to catch a ride, I slept through all those leisurely mornings.

The ancient town is full of rich classical charm, crisscrossed by little bridges and flowing streams.

Don't rush; slow down.

Wander through winding, secluded alleys, listen to the raindrops pattering on the eaves.

When tired, stop, take photos, and rest your feet.

I haven't watched "Mufu Wind and Cloud," but I know Mufu

was the palace of the Naxi tribal ruler, the local tyrant surnamed Mu.

It was burned down during the Cultural Revolution, and this one is a reconstruction – I didn't go inside.

Dongba pictographs, the sacred ancient totem of the Naxi people,

add a touch of age-old mystery to the old town alongside the Dongba culture.

Lashihai is a dozen kilometers from Lijiang, a wetland natural landscape along the Ancient Tea Horse Road.

August 5, moderate rain. At 9 am,

we waited on the road nearest to the inn. A car came to pick us up,

and half an hour later, we arrived at the horse ranch on the Lashihai Tea Horse Road.

All in all, the one-day group tour to Lashihai was a great deal – 290 yuan per person, all-inclusive.

But maybe due to the poor weather, there was no scenery along the way.

The most satisfying was a gourmet restaurant. Not only was the ambiance great, but the service was incredibly enthusiastic. The young waiters were so attentive. The food was really good, especially the copper pot rice – so delicious! No wonder so many people recommend it. The prices were affordable, making it the most comfortable and tastiest meal of our whole trip. Highly recommended.

The Yunnan trip has ended. Every place I haven't been to is a distant land I long to reach. I hope that in my twenties, I will always stay young and always be on the road.

Travelogue Index: 1. Dali 2. Dali Ancient Town 3. Caicun Pier 4. West Ring Road around Erhai 5. Xizhou 6. Lijiang 7. Lashihai 8. Shuhe Ancient Town Travel Info Hotel Index Guide Index Flight Index Site Navigation Travel Index Cruise Index Corporate Travel Index Affiliate Cooperation Distribution Alliance Friendly Links Corporate Gift Card Purchase Insurance Agent Agent Cooperation Hotel Partnership Destination & Scenic Spot Cooperation More Affiliate Cooperation About Ctrip About Ctrip Ctrip Hot Topics Contact Us Careers User Agreement Privacy Policy Business License Security Center Ctrip Content Center Intellectual Property Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure