Dali Story: By Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, Endless Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon

Life doesn’t need to be too crowded

Leave some space for yourself

Live your own days well

That is the most beautiful memory life can give

Choosing a city isn’t about stopping, but about living better. A while ago, a friend went to Dali alone to clear his mind. Because of work, he had gradually lost himself, squeezed for time by an intense job, and became a completely different person. For many, travel isn’t necessarily about finding a better life, but about rediscovering the person they once liked.

Travel brings more scenery, a chance to meet the most beautiful version of yourself, and a search for a better life. Some say the most touching thing on the road isn’t necessarily a grand view, but a person, a word, or a seemingly insignificant place where you simply feel joy.

What delighted me most in Dali was the “Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon” — stories of the ancient city, the majesty of Cangshan Mountain, the romance of Erhai Lake. People often lose themselves in Dali’s scenery, and many also gradually find themselves again here. Travel doesn’t need too many memories — just a person, a story, and a view.

Dali travel itinerary

Xiamen — Lijiang — Dali (direct flight to Lijiang, then high-speed train to Dali)

Day1: Check into the guesthouse (Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai)

Day2: Dali Ancient City

Food spot: Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Pangzi Kitchen

Day3: Erhai Lake

Day4: Pack up and head back

Guesthouse: Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai

For this Yunnan trip I prepared lots of travel notes — about scenery, guesthouses, and food. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Dali, and every time it feels different. Maybe it’s connected to my state of mind? On this trip I once again chose Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Muzhai. This guesthouse gives me a feeling of Dali’s soft time — warm, comfortable, quiet, and graceful.

Dali’s softest hours are found in a guesthouse’s easy life, carefree, with no busy work or outside noise to disturb you. In a strange city, choose your own tranquil living. If on the road you want some quiet, a place to forget your troubles, a guesthouse might just be the best place.

The courtyard of the guesthouse is a style I really love — deep and secluded. I adore the first ray of morning sunshine, so warm, cozy, and lazy. It’s perfect to sit in the courtyard with a cup of coffee, to mull over life’s experiences, and when at leisure, read a book, letting the gentle sun guide you into the truest inner world. Life’s most graceful scenery is inner calm and composure, and that requires a settled mind. In the guesthouse, with the right environment and the right moment, you find the best state of living.

I most enjoy afternoons at the guesthouse, with the same lazy, warm sunshine. In the tea room you can breathe in the fragrance of tea, sip a cup of Pu’er, and taste all of life’s ups and downs. Some say only when you return from Dali to your own city do you realize how much Dali is “poetry and the far-off distance.” A cup of tea, a ray of sun, a brief stay in a strange city, conversations with strangers, recording unfamiliar scenes — everything is new, yet it never loses a sense of closeness, keeping time soft. That is the greatest charm of a guesthouse.

The evening glow seems to encapsulate all of Dali’s encounters, all its beauty. The rooftop garden of the guesthouse, bathed in the afterglow of sunset, looks especially gorgeous. There may be a thousand reasons not to like Dali, but when you do come to love it, one reason is enough. The rooftop is perfect for photos — gaze into the distant view, and the whole of Dali lies at your feet.

The rooms are spacious, designed in a simple, understated luxury style that I also really like. The lighting is soft, the bed is soft, and everything is clean and hygienic. Toiletries are complete. You can see the care put into running this place — many small details are done well, allowing you to rest with complete peace of mind.

Food: Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Pangzi Kitchen

If the guesthouse is the soft, cozy life of travel, then food is the journey’s most beautiful “scenery.” Every city has its own unique flavor. You can look for local specialties and popular restaurants on food platforms. Yunnan’s cured-rib hot pot, wild mushroom hot pot, signature stir-fries, and yak meat are all tempting specialties. Not far from the guesthouse, on the lower section of Renmin Road, there’s a highly renowned and popular wild mushroom restaurant called Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Pangzi Kitchen.

Waiting for You in Dali · Fangzhou Pangzi Kitchen specializes in wild mushroom hot pot. Combined with free-range chicken, the flavor is delicious and packed with nutrients — a mountain delicacy you can’t easily find in many other cities. It’s a must-eat in Dali: wild mushrooms. Everyone coming to Dali wants to try this local specialty.

Located on the main street, with people streaming by, there’s no excessive decor — just a simple, clean, and spacious design. Walking past, you’re drawn in by the faint aroma of wild mushrooms. At mealtimes, you can see tourists queuing, waiting a long time just to taste this mountain-fresh goodness. Luckily, I’d done a lot of food research and booked a table in advance on a food platform.

Entering the restaurant, I was enveloped by the fragrance of wild mushrooms. The ground floor was already packed with tourists, so we chose a balcony seat on the second floor with a view of the street scene — very pleasant. Chicken and wild mushroom soup, matsutake, bamboo fungus, morels, porcini, all put into the pot together. After waiting a while, we lifted the lid and a fresh mushroom fragrance hit us. Drinking a few bowls of the soup first, the whole body warmed up. The broth was incredibly flavorful, the mushrooms and chicken superb. Paired with mushroom-infused rice, it was pure delight and incredibly satisfying. No wonder the reputation is so good — the wild mushrooms are truly delightful, making you want to eat meal after meal. This wild mushroom restaurant left the deepest impression of all the food I tried during my days in Dali.

An ancient city, a piece of history, a handful of stories.

Dali carries the dreams of countless people. The old town’s bygone days, the bluestone roads, the nightlife — all are desired. Experience Dali’s “Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon” in the afternoon hours, with just-right temperatures and a light breeze, perfect for strolling through the ancient city. The old city walls speak of historical memories, and the bluestone paths seem to take you back to ancient times. Find a café in a corner of the old town, go in for a coffee, listen to soothing music, bask in the gentle sun — hand over the whole afternoon to Dali Ancient City’s leisurely afternoon.

At night the old town bustles, as visitors gradually pour in for a wander. The vibrant night market, the twinkling lights — the night scenery is breathtaking. Evening is best spent in the bar street of the old town: choose a bar, drink a “Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon” beer, listen to a few folk songs, and let your own stories settle.

Erhai Lake has a silent string of ancient feelings. For many, Erhai Lake in Dali is a must-visit. The lake encircles all of Dali, and every view is stunning. The best area for Erhai sightseeing is Shuanglang, especially the lakeside road there — the scenery is too beautiful. For couples, Erhai is deeply romantic; many choose to take wedding photos by the lake, marking their most beautiful love. For a solitary traveler, Erhai heals the heart — past regrets are faded by the lakeside views. So-called “light winds and pale clouds” is also a way of living with ease. For families, it strengthens bonds, capturing lovely moments on camera. At Erhai, there is always a view that will stay unforgettable for a lifetime.

I most enjoy afternoons on the Erhai road, renting a bicycle and pedaling slowly, chasing the Erhai time, feeling the sea breeze and the warm sunshine — so pleasant.

When tired, find an open spot to sit down and rest, facing Erhai. This is the perfect moment to calm down, watch the gentle ripples on the lake’s surface, and listen to the sound of Erhai.

If travel is a temporary forgetting, then stop, let the scenery wash over you, give yourself a quiet moment, and find your original self again.