Seeking the Peak of Yunnan, Discovering the Romance of Dali (with Food Guide)
"Xiaguan wind, Shangguan flowers, Cangshan snow, Erhai moon"—Dali is all scenery. Honestly, I never understood why so many people longed for Dali, while I remained indifferent. But some things are only realized after the fact; only after you leave do you discover how beautiful it truly is, and then endless nostalgia sets in for the romance you left behind in Dali.
Some say the most beautiful season in Dali is April, others say June, but for locals, the most beautiful season is December, which is also travelers’ favorite and the quietest season in Dali.
In December, because it's the off-season, the commercial atmosphere fades, and the street vendors that once crowded Dali's streets are far fewer, restoring a taste of Dali's original charm.
Winter cherry blossoms bloom all over the land, ancient trees by Erhai are dyed in layers of color, and seagulls return to Dali this time of year, making December truly the most beautiful and suitable season for travelers.
DAY1: Dali Ancient Town – [Eat] Ark Pangzi Kitchen – [Stay] Ark Muzhai Inn
DAY2: Shaxi Ancient Town – [Eat] Jinshan Centennial Ancient Courtyard Restaurant – [Stay] Ark Muzhai Inn
DAY3: Self-drive around Erhai – Wase Bay – Xizhou Ancient Town
DAY4: Dali Ancient Town – Night visit to Jizhao Nunnery · Dali Ancient Town
We arrived in Dali in the evening. After checking in, night had fallen, which was perfect for a night stroll in Dali. So we decided to first explore the ancient town, then satisfy our hunger.
At this time, Dali was as quiet as a maiden, so tranquil it felt like the whole ancient town belonged to you. Gone were the bustling crowds, replaced by a sense of peace and depth; the street stalls that used to line the roads had mostly disappeared, leaving only Dali's original look.
We walked along quiet streets, listening to songs drifting from bars—a stroll like this makes life feel worth it. December in Dali is a bit dry, and the notorious strong winds are no joke, nearly blowing you away. The temperature difference between day and night is large, so in the evening you really need a coat or down jacket.
[Eat] I’m Waiting for You in Dali · Ark Pangzi Kitchen
After wandering around, we finally felt hungry and started looking for food. How could a cold winter day be without hotpot? And in Yunnan, you must try wild mushroom hotpot, a local specialty. So we set off on our food hunt.
On the road we saw a big sign that read “I’m Waiting for You in Dali,” full of artsy charm, evoking a dream of escaping the hustle and bustle. Later we realized this restaurant was actually part of the same place as our accommodation, and its specialty was wild mushroom hotpot—so we settled on it.
The restaurant had two floors, spacious and bright. We found a window seat, watching people pass by on the street while enjoying hotpot—if only it had snowed, it would have been absolutely perfect.
Food recommendations: There were three of us, so we ordered a small portion free-range chicken pot, just right for three. Mushrooms are a must: we had porcini, Cordyceps flower, bamboo fungus, morels, termite mushroom, and yellow boletus—all delicious. Hotpot can’t do without fresh beef, tender and flavorful, and we also ordered baby cabbage and pea tips for vegetables.
You shouldn’t miss the stir-fried dishes either. The mushroom-scented beef fillet was my absolute favorite—tender and smooth, infused with a light mushroom aroma. The spicy chicken gizzards and meat was fantastic, especially the chicken liver, which had no gaminess at all. The stir-fried Jianshouqing (a local wild mushroom) and mushroom fried rice were also excellent—each grain of rice distinct, perfectly seasoned, fragrant but not greasy.
Tips:
Food recommendations: Signature dish is wild mushroom hotpot, and the spicy chicken giblets. Restaurant name: Ark Pangzi Kitchen. Go early to avoid peak times and queues. [Stay] I’m Waiting for You in Dali · Ark Muzhai Inn
After eating, it’s just a short walk to the inn. The inn is very obvious—once you see the five characters “Dali Waiting for You,” you’ve arrived. It’s super convenient, right next to the ancient city gate, a few minutes’ walk, with easy transportation.
The inn’s environment is wonderful, feeling just like home. The top floor is like a hanging garden, planted with flowers and plants. The inn is covered in greenery, like a scene from Alice in Wonderland.
One side of the inn has rooms, the other an outdoor common area. I absolutely loved this outdoor area on the second floor—a big glass room where sunlight streams through, warm and joyful on your skin. On a winter afternoon, you can soak up a beautiful sunbath here.
In the common area on the ground floor, there’s a very romantic big tree. If it snowed, it would be stunning—snowflakes landing on the leaves, then falling on you when the wind blows. The nearby seats are bathed in sunlight; having a cup of tea there would be lovely. The light here is excellent; almost every corner catches the sun.
The rooms are spacious and bright. I loved the big bathtub under the glass window, with sunlight filling the whole room—it smelled of sunshine. Although December brings a chill, here it still feels like spring all year round; the sun on your body is just so comfortable.
Tips:
Inn name: Ark Muzhai Inn
Location: Super close to the ancient city gate, a 5-minute walk; convenient transportation to all spots.
Food recommendation: Ark Pangzi Kitchen is the same establishment as the inn, right next to it, a 2-minute walk.
[Scenery] The Most Primitive Ancient Village · Shaxi Ancient Town
Shaxi Ancient Town is one of the few well-preserved ancient towns in Dali. Shaxi Town is located in the southeast of Jianchuan County, 32 kilometers from the county seat, situated between the three major tourist areas of Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La. It borders Eryuan County to the southeast and Misha, Yangcen, and Diannan of Jianchuan County to the northwest.
If you’re tired of cookie-cutter ancient towns, then come to Shaxi. Visit this still-primitive village, where streets aren’t crowded, shops aren’t excessive, and you only see working elders and the humans in Shaxi’s paintings.
When in Shaxi, you must see Yujin Bridge, an ancient bridge on the Tea Horse Road. Originally a chain bridge, "Iron Chain Across the River" was one of Shaxi’s four scenic spots, and the name "Yujin" dates back to the 57th year of the Qianlong reign in the Qing Dynasty.
Shaxi Ancient Town has many painters; it’s hard to tell whether the painting is among the people or the people are within the painting—this scenery has become the most beautiful picture of Shaxi.
There is an ancient tree in Shaxi, an old, sturdy tree. Autumn comes late to Shaxi, and this tree is covered in golden leaves, standing like a towering guardian watching over the ancient town.
[Eat] Jinshan Centennial Ancient Courtyard Restaurant · Celebrity Restaurant
This restaurant is frequented by celebrities; it’s said that Faye Wong and Wang Baoqiang have visited, making it a film and TV base in Dali. Several productions have shot here. We happened to pass by today, so we decided to have dinner here.
The restaurant atmosphere truly befits a filming location; it’s superb. As soon as you enter, you’re greeted by a sea of flowers, as if stepping into a kingdom of blossoms, with lush greenery and blooming flowers everywhere.
Every table has a vase of fresh flowers, filling the restaurant with vitality. The old house architecture looks quite historical; in Dali, it’s rare to find buildings so well-preserved.
Food recommendations: In a Dali winter, how can you miss a soup pot? The six wild mushroom and free-range chicken soup pot brings warmth on a cold day. Every ingredient is super fresh, the broth aromatic. A bowl of chicken soup in winter Dali is just perfect.
Passion fruit fish: a dish I adore, sweet and sour, well-balanced, perfect for those who prefer light flavors. The fish is incredibly fresh and tender.
Carved plum beef slices: another favorite, sweet and sour, with super tender beef and walnuts and cashews inside.
Vanilla lemon chicken: the restaurant’s signature, mildly spicy and absolutely a rice-killer. The chicken absorbs the fragrance of vanilla and lemon, delicious.
Bai traditional spring rolls: a must-try Dali specialty, the wrapper made from egg, with a fantastic dipping sauce.
Corn cakes: I love these, a unique staple with a hint of rice sweetness.
Tips:
Restaurant: Jinshan Centennial Ancient Courtyard
Address: 99 Middle Renmin Road, Dali Ancient Town
Opening hours: 10:00–23:00
[Scenery] Self-drive Around Erhai Road – Wase Bay
There’s a beautiful Wase Bay near Wase Town. We drove along the loop road around Erhai. Right after leaving the expressway, get your eyes ready—Wase Bay is stunning. From a distance, it looks like a glowing island, absolutely beautiful.
Once we reached the shore of Erhai, our journey around the lake began. Nearly every spot here is great for photos. If one place is too crowded and you don’t want to wait, just find a less crowded spot—the results are pretty similar, so no need to linger too long in one place.
Along the way, there’s a beautiful spot by the water with a big tree—a popular location for wedding photoshoots.
Further ahead, you can see Little Putuo Island.
[Scenery] A Leisurely Trip to Xizhou Ancient Town
Xizhou Ancient Town, leaning against Cangshan Mountain to the west and facing Erhai to the east, has existed since the Sui and Tang dynasties. Xizhou is mainly composed of the Yan family compound, Dong family compound, Yang family compound, and Yin family compound. The Yan compound is the largest and most prosperous. It’s said that the Yan family’s business extended abroad, and the patriarch was a patriot; during wars, he donated his family’s wealth to the country to help protect the nation and its people.
For those planning to visit the Yan family compound, be careful: this is the actual Yan family museum. When we took a taxi, the driver brought us to a different compound with only a few old houses, and they wanted an extra 95 yuan to see a performance. So we skipped it. I suspect every driver who brings tourists there gets a kickback; the driver parked inside and didn’t move until we walked out of the ticket office.
Doesn’t this building have a Republican era feel? It’s a perfect spot for photos, especially for couples—one on each side, walking slowly toward each other. This is probably Xizhou’s Instagram-famous location. If only we’d come half a month earlier, when the rapeseed flowers were in full bloom. Still, it’s beautiful, running freely through the grass. Remember to stay on the path among the flowers and don’t trample them.
[Scenery] Jizhao Nunnery: A Garden of Flowers
Take a bus to Cangshan National Geopark, then walk up the steps—about half an hour on foot. It’s uphill, so it takes some energy, but there’s a shortcut to cut down on walking. After the steps, go a little further and you’ll see a small uphill path; occasionally people walk there, but we took the main road for safety. Along the way, lush shrubs, wildflowers, and occasional squirrels abound—a natural oxygen bar. If you’re fit, give it a try. Earlier research said you could drive directly to Jizhao Nunnery, but our driver said it wasn’t allowed anymore. Those with limited stamina should check if vehicles can still go up to the nunnery gate.
After half an hour we finally reached the gate. I don’t know when it became an internet sensation, but such a fresh, artsy nunnery—anyone who sees it would want to stay. It seems every girl has a hipster heart.
Stepping inside Jizhao Nunnery, I was conquered by the plants and flowers. The courtyards are full of succulents, decorating the nunnery like a training ground for flower fairies. It’s not big—just two courtyards—and you can tour it in an hour.
If you’re hungry, they offer lunch and dinner. Lunch is around 11:30, dinner around 5:30, 20 yuan per person for vegetarian meals. Take as much as you can eat, but no leftovers allowed!
This journey of wind, flowers, snow, and moon has ended.
An ending is also a beginning.
See you at our next stop.
