A Spontaneous Road Trip to Dali: Through Mountains, Seas, and Nature's Romance
If there's a place that lets you escape the hustle and bustle, live peacefully, and get close to nature, where would you think of? Having been to so many places, the first that comes to my mind is Dali. The leisurely ease of sitting by Erhai Lake, gazing from dawn till sunset; the exhilarating moment of driving over Windmill Mountain to overlook the city; or strolling through ancient towns and villages, catching the aroma of charcoal-baked baba from a local household. In Dali, happiness seems simpler. Countless people travel thousands of miles chasing that poetic vision of distant lands, yet inadvertently get captivated by this city. In the winter of 2020, I drove a GAC Toyota 2021 Levin Sport and embarked on a road trip that crossed mountains and seas, fully embracing the romance of wind, flowers, snow, and moonlight.
No matter how many times you visit Dali, you can't seem to avoid Erhai Lake. At Panxi Ferry along the West Ring Road, Erhai is serene and gentle, with a winding shoreline boardwalk. A solitary old tree stands there, and a light wind skims the surface, creating ripples so beautiful you can't tear yourself away. Before sunrise, I made my way to the lakeshore to wait for the new day to begin. At dawn, Erhai was nothing but tranquil silence. Everything was still sleeping, a hazy blur, until the morning glow slowly emerged, outlining the mountains.
The winter wind by Erhai was infused with the fresh scent of lake grass. I slowed my pace, strolling alone along the shore, waiting for the most brilliant moment. Casually lifting my eyes, I saw the mountain ridge already bathed in rosy light; everything was coming to life and becoming distinct. With vast waters and sky stretching endlessly, cloudless, Dali in winter is never short of sunshine—today would be another fine day!
I glanced back at the 2021 Levin beside me. Its low-slung stance and sharp lines sketch a sporty silhouette. The low front nose, the dark grey rear grille, and aerodynamic kit together create its aggressive look. The hawk-eye-design LED headlights, standard across the range, add an eager sense of motion. All this sets it apart from competing models in its class.
Perhaps the most pleasant thing by Erhai is sitting on the shore, listening to music, petting dogs, basking in the sun, and feeling the lake breeze. I bought a coffee and leaned against the 2021 Levin, letting my mind go blank. The water was azure, the plants lush green. Time stood still, and my body and mind were completely at ease.
I believe every photography enthusiast wouldn't miss chasing a limited-edition sunset. My ultimate goal this time was Dafengba. Dafengba is located on Zhemo Mountain south of Xiaguan. Once an unnoticed wind power station, it has become popular online, attracting many visitors.
The road from Xiaguan to Dafengba has many twists and steep slopes. It's also a major traffic route, so there are many vehicles. Overtaking and meeting oncoming traffic are common. Meanwhile, the mountain road ahead becomes steeper, climbing continuously with hairpin turns one after another.
At this point, the advantages of the TNGA platform became evident. For example, the vehicle's rear suspension uses double wishbone independent suspension, giving the 2021 Levin smooth handling on curves and bumpy roads, and greater stability at high speeds. It's worth noting that many other cars in the same class use torsion beam non-independent rear suspension, while Levin achieves a high level of mechanical sophistication rarely seen in its class. With this independent suspension, the rear-seat bumpiness is greatly reduced, significantly enhancing ride comfort.
Speaking of ride comfort, the front seats of the Levin must be mentioned. Because I often take long road trips, seat comfort has always been a key factor in choosing a car. The 2021 Levin Sport features the latest high-grade sport-style leather seats developed by Intex Yingtai, with black upholstery and red accent stitching—sporty yet refined. The seats also provide good support and wrapping for the head and shoulders, greatly reducing fatigue on long drives.
Even rear air conditioning vents and USB ports, which are usually found only on higher trims of other cars in this class, are standard across the entire 2021 Levin range.
After enjoying the Dali sunset, the sky soon darkened, making the return mountain road more treacherous. In the darkness, the Levin's hawk-eye LED headlights illuminated the way ahead, and I was pleased to discover that this Levin also comes with an automatic high-beam system, sparing me the hassle of constantly switching between high and low beams during night driving.
Tips: Windmill Mountain is a bit hard to find. The navigation location for Windmill Mountain is actually wrong. You can only reach the road below. Just before the navigation endpoint, on the right, there's an uphill road that's the real way to Windmill Mountain. The forestry management gate will charge a 10 yuan entry fee. Make sure to dress warmly, especially for night viewing. Although Dali is warm during the day, the wind here is always strong, and it gets extremely cold as soon as the sun goes down. If you use a drone here, watch out for the many windmill blades and power poles.
We arrived at Fengyangyi Village, a half-hour drive from Panxi Ferry. Since the Yuan Dynasty, this has been a station on the ancient post road of Dali and part of the Dali section of the Tea Horse Road from Yunnan to Tibet. At the village entrance, I felt like I had traveled back in time; the mottled white walls seemed to lead one into a bygone era.
There is a courtyard in the village, near a mountain covered with catalpa trees, hence its name, Qiu Yuan (Catalpa Garden). Every brick and tile is locally sourced, simple and unpretentious yet exquisite. From the terrace on the second floor of the old courtyard, you can gaze out at Erhai Lake.
Wooden railings and earthen stone walls interweave, and the old handcrafted trinkets are all very charming. The owners are very laid-back; the café hidden among the grass opens purely based on mood, so whether you encounter it is a matter of luck. On several visits, I've inevitably encountered 'closed door' situations—such spontaneity, and I envy them immensely.
Tips: Don't miss their Yangchun noodles.
I never expected that even a nunnery would become an internet sensation. Less than 3 kilometers from Fengyang Village, following Gantong Road to the Cangshan Scenic Area cable car, then hiking up the mountain for about 20 minutes will bring you to this special nunnery. The temple is filled with succulents, potted plants, ground plantings, and hanging baskets—even the cracks in the walls are brimming with life.
Jizhao Nunnery gets its name from the phrase 'sensing leads to understanding, in silence one reflects clearly.' The abbess blends Zen and aesthetics, cultivating with heart, chanting Buddha's name with heart, tending the temple with heart, and also preparing vegetarian meals with heart.
Don't underestimate the vegetarian food here. Despite the rough mountain path, it attracts countless visitors. Well before 11 o'clock, a long queue has already formed at the food collection area. Even before the doors open, the aroma of the dishes wafts out. There are a dozen or so dishes to choose from, and you can help yourself until you're full. But be very careful not to leave any leftovers—every grain of rice left means a stick of incense and kneeling as punishment. So when you come, be sure to 'eat according to your ability'!
Tips: Address: Follow the Gantong Road intersection all the way up the mountain to reach the Cangshan Geopark parking lot. From there, you can walk to Gantong Temple, Jizhao Nunnery, Dayun Hall, and Boluo Temple. Wuyou Temple is north of the Three Pagodas Tunnel, and you can drive directly to its parking lot. Cost: Jizhao Nunnery is 20 yuan per person; some temples are by donation. Recommendation: a great weekend spot where you can hike up for distant views or sit quietly for contemplation.
Coffee Time in Xizhou
How can you come to Dali and not visit Xizhou? Compared to the bustling Dali Old Town, I prefer Xizhou's simplicity and tranquility. Even though winter has arrived and the rice has been harvested, the barren pastoral scenery is still enchanting. You can even imagine what a splendid scene it would be when covered with rice paddies in summer.
As a Bai ethnic settlement since the era when the Six Zhao and the Heman coexisted, Xizhou Ancient Town's architecture is most worth exploring. Strolling around Xizhou Ancient Town, the streets and old buildings at corners are all very photogenic. Especially the wall of the Xilinyuan, with Bai-style architecture and the blue sky, it's a favorite photo spot for visitors to Xizhou.
If you're looking for a café in Xizhou, my top recommendation is Tian Coffee. The entire atmosphere of the shop perfectly matches the feel of Xizhou: a two-story old house over a hundred years old, furnished with retro-style tables, chairs, and utensils. Exposed gray-white walls, sunlight streaming in through the small window on the second floor, bringing the old objects to life.
To be honest, Yunnan coffee has never been my favorite; I've always had the impression of a balanced, oolong tea-like taste profile. However, the handwritten menu's selection of classic Yunnan small-grain coffees caught my attention: 'Qiu Pu' and 'He Luan'. The beautiful names are infused with local character and charm.
The owner seems to always be experimenting with the fusion of coffee and tea. You choose a cup you like, and the host completes the entire extraction in front of you, then pours the coffee into it through a coffee pot, creating a sense of intimate connection.
Driving through the ancient town, you can't avoid narrow alleys that are only wide enough for one car. Thanks to the TNGA platform, the 2021 Levin's side mirrors are moved to the door panels, providing better visibility and allowing confident driving through the narrow town streets.
The 9-inch central touchscreen with intelligent voice recognition makes navigation very convenient—just say the destination and commands. It can also display real-time traffic conditions. Honestly, this has noticeably improved the experience of finding directions and exploring shops during the trip.
Shaxi Ancient Town, where paths crisscross, and the sounds of roosters and dogs can be heard. It stands apart from the world yet has the warmth of everyday life. This is Dali's hidden paradise.
Driving from Dali Old Town to Shaxi Ancient Town takes about two-plus hours, passing National Highway 214 and expressways. Long drives easily lead to fatigue, posing a safety risk. This 2021 Levin is equipped with the latest TSS intelligent safety system, capable of quasi-Level 2 autonomous driving, including Dynamic Radar Cruise Control (DRCC) and Lane Tracing Assist (LTA), which keeps the vehicle centered in the lane at all times, adding peace of mind and ease to the journey. Even more remarkable, the Levin comes standard with 8 SRS airbags across the entire lineup—something even entry-level luxury cars rarely offer!
On a winter morning in Shaxi, by the Yujin Bridge, the sunlight spilled over the originally bleak and dim riverbank, painting a scene like a Russian oil painting. This was nature's magic! Standing there, I momentarily cast aside the restlessness and confusion in my heart and rediscovered a long-lost peace.
The long history of the Tea Horse Road has left traces of time everywhere. Some say this place is like Lijiang 20 years ago, with just the right amount of commercialization and not too many tourists to disturb the tranquility.
The biggest advantage of coming here is that even during holidays, there are few visitors. Local households still set out their enticing handmade snacks and crafts at their doorsteps, and the owners greet you warmly. There's no pushing or shoving crowds.
Transportation: Self-driving is recommended, about 2 hours from Dali. Public transport is more troublesome: take a minibus from Xiaguan to Jianchuan and then transfer. There may be direct buses from Dali Old Town but with very few services. Tips: ① No entrance fee for the ancient town. ② Cars are not allowed inside; overnight parking costs 20 yuan, a bit pricey, so you can park on the roadside. ③ Accommodation is very cheap; staying several days is highly recommended. Guesthouses in the town are only about 100-200 yuan per night. ④ There are many interesting little shops and cafés, such as Universe Bakery, Changshou Tea House, Xiyu, all with unique charm.
On this journey, I circled the shimmering Erhai Lake, threaded through the flagstone roads of a millennia-old town, and climbed steep winding mountain roads to take in the lake and mountain scenery. The road conditions were complex and changeable, but fortunately, I had the 2021 Levin as my companion throughout. Its design, balancing simplicity and fashion, exudes sportiness. The TNGA platform's low center of gravity impressed me with its cornering stability and handling. Safety features are abundant—things like 8 SRS airbags are actually standard across the range, and the TSS intelligent safety system is available starting from just 120,000 yuan, making it very accessible. I have to say, this 2021 Levin truly reaches an exceptionally high level. I think at some point in the future, I will settle down in Dali. Then, there will be no talk of escape, only a quiet life. Dali has always been a place for simple living. If one day you want to experience the essence of life and feel the inner growth, then go to Dali.
(Also, at the end of December, Dali's winter cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Pink cherry blossoms can be seen everywhere in Dali Old Town, especially at Dali University where they are dense. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic, the university is not open to visitors, so you can go to Bo'ai Road in the old town. The row of cherry blossoms by the city wall, set against the drum tower, is full of romantic ancient charm.)
