The Most Beautiful Time for Wind, Flowers, Snow, and Moon: Must-Visit Spots in Dali!

Upper Pass flowers, Lower Pass wind, the Lower Pass wind blows the Upper Pass flowers; Cangshan snow, Erhai moon, the Erhai moon shines on Cangshan snow.

The famous writer Cao Jinghua, after visiting Dali, was deeply moved by the four iconic scenes of wind, flowers, snow, and moon, and he left this poem behind. I've been to many places in Yunnan, but Dali remains my favorite. Just the sight of Erhai Lake, like a flawless piece of jade, is enough to win you over and make you linger. The first place in Dali to become a hotspot was Shuanglang, where I loved the feeling of facing the sea with spring blossoms. Now, more and more friends prefer to tour around Erhai Lake, where you can find stunning scenery, rich culture, and delicious food—all in one place. But Dali's charm goes far beyond that. Right now, Dali is at its most beautiful, and there are a few places you absolutely must visit. Let's go!

[Travel Tips]

Day 1: Chengdu – Dali (take the airport bus) – Dali Ancient Town Stay: Ark Wooden House (Dali Ancient Town)

Day 2: Dali University – Hongsheng Road – Xingsheng Bridge – Haidong Road – Xiaoputuo Stay: Ark Wooden House (Dali Ancient Town)

Day 3: Longkan Ancient Ferry – Xizhou Ancient Town – Haishe Park Stay: Ark Wooden House (Dali Ancient Town)

Day 4: Fengyangyi – Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple Stay: Ark Wooden House (Dali Ancient Town)

Day 5: Dali – Chengdu

Transportation:

1) Plane: Flights from Chengdu to Dali are usually quite cheap, and traveling in the off-season is a real bargain.

2) Train: There's a direct high-speed train from Chengdu to Dali, but it takes a full 8 hours, which can be tiring. A second-class seat costs over 600 yuan, often more expensive than flying.

3) Public transport in Dali is fairly well-developed. The airport bus goes directly to the city center and Dali Ancient Town, and there are sightseeing buses for the Erhai Lake loop from the ancient town.

4) Car rental: Renting a car is the best way to explore Dali. There are many rental shops in Dali Ancient Town, with all kinds of flashy sports cars in wild colors—haha, great for photos. There are also rental points like Shenzhou. For groups of 3 to 5 people, renting a car is convenient and affordable. If you're solo or in a pair, renting an electric scooter or bicycle is also a good option.

Best Season

Yunnan has a pleasant climate and is suitable for travel all year round, but winter is highly recommended. It's not cold here in winter, and most days are sunny. The color of Erhai Lake is at its most beautiful, with flocks of red-billed seagulls. In December, you can see winter cherry blossoms, and in March, spring cherry blossoms bloom. So I think the best times are December and March to April.

Many friends like to stay by Erhai Lake to enjoy the sea view right from their rooms, but it's a bit inconvenient for getting around. This time, I chose to stay in Dali Ancient Town, where both transport and dining are very convenient.

[Dali University] [Hongsheng Road]

Dali's cherry blossoms are famous, with both winter and spring varieties. The best place for winter cherry blossoms is the Wuliangshan Cherry Blossom Valley, but Wuliangshan is too far—a round trip by car takes about 8-9 hours, so I gave up.

The cherry blossoms at Dali University have always been well-known, blooming from December to April, with both winter and spring blossoms being stunning. However, due to the pandemic, the campus has been under closed management. I thought I'd be disappointed, but unexpectedly, when I went to photograph the legendary "most beautiful road," I stumbled upon some incredibly gorgeous cherry blossoms.

Hongsheng Road is hailed by netizens as the most beautiful road in Dali. It's very close to Dali Ancient Town, only 2 kilometers away.

I only knew that one end of this road leads to Erhai Lake, but when I arrived, I discovered that the other end is right at Dali University, and you can see the campus cherry blossoms through the fence.

Also, there are many cherry blossom trees along both sides of Hongsheng Road—absolutely beautiful!

When taking photos on Hongsheng Road, please be very careful and never sit in the middle of the road. Safety first!

On this road, there's a residential area called "Shanshuijian" (Landscape Between). Its spring cherry blossoms are also famous; there's a small stream running through the community, with cherry trees planted along both banks.

[Xingsheng Bridge]

This was a spot I discovered by chance while driving from the cherry blossoms to the Erhai loop road. Xingsheng Bridge is in downtown Dali, not far from Dali Railway Station. It spans the Xier River, which is the outlet where Erhai Lake flows into the Lancang River.

There are many seagulls by the bridge, along with lots of black wild ducks. The bridge's design is very European, and for a moment, it felt like I was in Europe.

You can take great photos on the bridge, by the riverbank below, or on the stairs leading down from the bridge. Or walk a little farther and sit on a bench by the river with the bridge in the background—every shot is picture-perfect.

Cangshan and Erhai, mountains and waters that depend on each other. Erhai is not a sea but the second-largest freshwater lake in Yunnan, named for its shape resembling a human ear. Erhai originates from Cibi Lake in Eryuan County, whose source is Bagu Mountain. It is fed by the Mizhi River in the north, receives Boluo River water in the southeast, and collects 18 streams from Cangshan Mountain in the west. Covering an area of about 251 square kilometers, a full loop around Erhai is roughly 120 kilometers. The Haidong Highway section is particularly scenic; the road runs close to Erhai, so you can enjoy the lake's beauty all along the drive.

The first place to become famous by Erhai Lake was probably Yang Liping's hometown—Shuanglang Town. For a while, Shuanglang was the epitome of hipster charm; you had to come to Dali and experience what it meant to "face the sea, with spring blossoms." But later, it turned into a huge construction site and began a long period of repairs. Now, though, the construction is finished, but I feel it's become overly commercialized, so I didn't include it in my itinerary.

Another town by Erhai Lake—Wase—is located on the eastern shore. Surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing the lake, it has been a land of fish and rice on Erhai's east bank since ancient times and is one of the cradles of the Bai people's indigenous culture, with a long history in the Erhai region.

Wase, compared to Dali Ancient Town and Shuanglang, is more pristine and tranquil, and it has two big advantages. First, every winter, many of the seagulls that fly from Siberia to spend the winter on Erhai Lake gather near Wase Town, though this year there seem to be fewer. Second, it's on the eastern shore, making it the best spot to watch the sunset over Erhai Lake.

The seagulls arrive in November and leave in early March. In Wase Town, they mainly congregate around the town entrance and near Xiaoputuo. They seem accustomed to tourists eagerly feeding them and are happily munching away, their cheerful cries filling the sky, which lifts everyone's mood and brightens the day.

Xiaoputuo was first built during the Ming Dynasty and renovated in 1982. It is a two-story pavilion with a small hall, housing a statue of the Tathagata on the first floor and Guanyin on the second. It's a tiny, tiny island not far from the shore. You can pay 15 yuan to take a boat out, but it's not really necessary—it looks more beautiful from a distance.

The best way to experience Erhai is to rent an electric scooter and cruise along the coastal road, stopping here and there to feed the seagulls, take photos, and wait for the sunset. Then, as the sun sinks below the horizon, enjoy the most stunning sunset by the lake—that's the real travel experience.

In the glow of the setting sun, it felt as if the world consisted only of this beautiful scenery and us. I stretched out my arms, embracing everything, and etched this moment forever in my heart.

Wase, still a newcomer to the spotlight, retains its raw and pure beauty. I hope everyone will take good care of it, leaving a clean haven for the seagulls that come from afar.

[Ark Fat Chef Kitchen]

What's the greatest joy of traveling? It's having both beautiful scenery and delicious food. After feasting my eyes on a day's worth of stunning views, now it's time to satisfy my taste buds.

What's Yunnan's most famous dish? It's definitely my favorite—mushrooms! Delicious and nourishing. I'm waiting for you in Dali; don't miss the mushroom soup at Ark Fat Chef Kitchen.

Ark Fat Chef Kitchen is right next to the Erhai Gate of Dali Ancient Town, just a stone's throw from the Ark Wooden House where I stayed. I originally came because it's rated No. 1 for Yunnan cuisine in Dali, only to find out later that they're actually under the same ownership—haha, talk about a coincidence!

The restaurant occupies a two-story building. If you can, definitely grab a seat by the window on the second floor. You'll be able to see the quiet, charming ancient town outside, gaze at distant Cangshan Mountain, and enjoy the rich mushroom soup. I felt incredibly happy in that moment.

A must-order at Ark Fat Chef is the mushroom hotpot. You can choose whatever mushrooms you like. As my husband says, "Any mushroom is delicious!" Haha. I picked morels, bamboo fungus, and one whose name I forgot—there are simply too many varieties. I remembered the taste but forgot the name!

Once the broth boils, the waiter will pour all the mushrooms into the pot and set an hourglass timer. When the sand runs out, it's ready to eat. To my surprise, they even add saffron to the soup for free, and the chicken in the broth is also complimentary. The owner is really generous—no wonder it's so popular and well-reviewed.

Alright, the pot of thick, aromatic mushroom soup is ready. Ladle out a bowl and enjoy this amazing Dali specialty.

[Ark Wooden House]

I visit Dali almost every year. In the past, I always stayed by Erhai Lake, loving that "face the sea, with spring blossoms" feeling. But after many visits, I realized that staying by the lake makes getting around quite inconvenient, and I wasted a lot of time on the road. This time, most of the scenic spots I planned to visit were near Dali Ancient Town, and the car rental pickup point was also on the edge of the ancient town, so I chose to stay in the town.

After reading many travel tips and reviews, I settled on Ark Wooden House Inn. Taking the airport bus from the airport, I got off at the ancient town stop, and it was just a few minutes' walk. It's also very close to the car rental pick-up point, and the inn has its own free parking lot—parking by the ancient town can be pricey.

As I turned a corner, I saw signs saying "Dali awaits you" and "Where my heart finds peace, there is my home." Under the blue sky and white clouds, a white three-story building gave me a real feeling of coming home. Before I even spotted the name Ark Wooden House, I was already drawn here.

The innkeeper warmly opened the door and welcomed us into this temporary home. The courtyard, though not large, was filled with greenery and succulents, brimming with life. In the center was a pond of water, clean and elegant, making me feel instantly relaxed, just like the feeling of returning home from afar.

The room was spacious and cozily decorated. There was a large bathtub by the window, which I loved. After a long day out, soaking in the tub to relax was absolutely heaven.

The inn has three floors. The second floor and the rooftop each have a terrace, perfect for a few friends to sit and chat. From the rooftop, you can gaze at Cangshan Mountain in the distance, with open views and beautiful scenery.

Tucked in a quiet corner of the ancient town, it's just a few minutes' walk to the bustling center, where you can soak up the lively atmosphere. Back in the room, it's wonderfully peaceful, ensuring a good night's sleep. I had planned to get up early every morning to watch the sunrise at Longkan Ancient Ferry (but I was so comfortable that I overslept and missed it—haha).

[Longkan Ancient Ferry]

I come to Dali once or twice a year, but this was my first time at Longkan Ancient Ferry, which is very close to Dali Ancient Town. I'd heard the sunrise there is spectacular, but I couldn't get up in time and missed it.

Even without the sunrise, it's still beautiful! There are the recently popular redwood trees and seagulls, though not as many as at Xingsheng Bridge.

You can gaze across at Shuanglang and watch the cruise ships glide by. Blue, red, yellow, white—every shot is a masterpiece. Sitting by Erhai Lake and taking in the view, this is what "peaceful and quiet" truly feels like.

You can drive directly there using navigation; the car can get quite close to the water's edge, and it's just a two- or three-minute walk from there.

Best photo time: around 9 a.m. If you want to see the sunrise, get up earlier—check the exact time online.

When feeding seagulls, use proper bird food and try not to get too close.

[Xizhou Ancient Town]

When visiting Dali, many people head straight to Dali Ancient Town, but I prefer Xizhou. It's quieter, more rustic, and above all, it has my favorite Xizhou baba (flatbread).

Xizhou is located in northern Dali, with Cangshan Mountain to the west and Erhai Lake to the east. It is one of the cradles of Dali culture and has been a Bai ethnic settlement since ancient times. Xizhou Ancient Town is one of the remaining original cities of the Nanzhao Kingdom, with over a thousand years of history. It is also the hometown of the film "Five Golden Flowers," making it the best place to experience Bai culture.

The core area of Xizhou Ancient Town is still called Sifang Street, though it's not very large, but the whole town is quite expansive. You can take one of the little yellow carts driven by locals for just 10 yuan—very cheap. Of course, the driver will take you to a few woodcarving shops, embroidery stores, tea houses, and the like, but that's no big deal. After all, 10 yuan is a steal, and the driver needs to make a living. Just don't buy anything if you're not interested; simply let him drive you around the town. If you see something that catches your eye, you can ask him to stop for photos.

There are two paid attractions in the ancient town, but I didn't find them very interesting. It's better to just wander around and appreciate the old buildings—they have more character.

The little yellow cart's last stop is Sifang Street, which was noticeably livelier. I made a beeline for a shop selling Xizhou baba. They were huge, but I still bought one sweet and one savory to try both flavors. In the end, I decided the sweet one was my favorite.

Xizhou baba is practically the town's best ambassador. When you come here, you must try one. Though it may look humble, the preparation is quite meticulous. It's baked using two layers of charcoal fire—a fierce upper layer and a gentle lower one. The dough is brushed with lard before being placed in the pan, and during baking, it's repeatedly oiled until golden and crispy. The baba has a crispy, fragrant crust and a soft interior. That's why every shop in Xizhou Ancient Town advertises "crispy baba." One bite reveals a floral aroma beneath that crunchy shell—absolutely delicious.

Besides the baba, Xizhou's pea jelly is also quite good and suits the palate of us Sichuan folks.

After satisfying my craving for Xizhou baba, I was thoroughly content. Next, I headed to Haishe Park next to Xizhou—I'd heard the scenery there was fantastic.

[Haishe Park]

Erhai Lake, the mother lake of the Dali people, is so beautiful it seems otherworldly. In a previous article, I recommended Wase. Now I want to share another place by Erhai with a unique beauty: Haishe Park, near Xizhou Ancient Town on the western shore.

Haishe Park lies in Jinhe Village, Xizhou Town, on the west bank of Erhai Lake. The Wanhua Stream from Cangshan Mountain flows into the sea here, and combined with the slow currents and pressure of Erhai Lake, it has formed this long stretch of sandbar surrounded by water on three sides. Local history records call it "Qingsha Islet." The sandbar is about 1.5 kilometers long, tapering as it extends into Erhai, shaped like a "tongue", hence the name "Haishe" (Sea Tongue).

Wase is on the east shore, while Haishe Park is on the west. The scenery differs slightly: the western waters nurture many groves of trees, giving it a vivid feel, while the eastern side is enlivened by seagulls. The trees growing in the water make the western scenery particularly vibrant.

Haishe Park is free. It's a few hundred meters from the parking lot to the park entrance, about a 15-minute walk. You can also hop on a horse cart for 20 yuan—not too expensive. However, I suggest not taking the cart both ways, because the scenery along this gravel path is every bit as beautiful as inside the park.

On one side, Erhai Lake unfolds, with blue sky, white clouds, trees, wetlands, fishing boats... all the elements come together in a breathtaking landscape that makes you linger.

Entering the park gate, the first thing that catches your eye is two lush rows of bamboo, so green they're refreshing. Sunlight filters through the gaps, casting specks of golden light on the path and opposite bamboo.

Past the bamboo grove, you'll see a café by the water—the only place in the park to sit down, have a coffee, face the sea, and chat about life.

Since Haishe Park is shaped like a tongue, its map is the simplest I've ever seen—just a tongue-shaped sandbar extending into Erhai Lake, with no forks in the path.

Often, you'll see local villagers heading out to fish. With luck, you might even spot a cormorant catching fish—much better than paying for a cormorant show.

As you go deeper into the park, the wind picks up. At the very end, a tree looked like it was about to topple over—it made me wonder just how strong the famous Upper Pass wind must be! But the kid seemed unfazed by the gale, searching for small sea creatures along the shore.

Right at the park entrance, a sign warns: "Reptiles frequently appear here." This tells you it's a wild, natural park where you might encounter all sorts of little creatures—whether you see them or not is up to luck.

[Jinshan Centennial Courtyard Restaurant]

Time for dinner! Back in Dali Ancient Town, as the lanterns were lit and dusk fell, the town transformed completely from its quiet daytime self into a lively, bustling scene.

I'd already added Jinshan Centennial Courtyard Restaurant to my itinerary before the trip. Many friends had recommended it, and lots of celebrities have dined here. Conveniently, it's just a five-minute walk from Ark Wooden House.

Once inside, there's a large courtyard full of character. The owner told us it's been in the family for generations, run by the family. The courtyard is decorated in a simple, rustic style with distinct local features. Plants are everywhere, full of vitality. Dining in such a lovely environment was pure bliss!

Lemongrass chicken with lemon: the signature dish, a must-order. The chicken is cut into small, flavorful pieces, infused with a special herbal aroma, plus dried chili—fragrant and spicy, with a lingering aftertaste. Perfect for Sichuan taste buds.

Carved plum beef slices: I loved this sweet-and-sour dish, with large pieces of preserved plum and tender beef.

The signature passion fruit sour-spicy fish: another must-try. The passion fruit broth is refreshing and appetizing, sour and spicy, with incredibly tender fish that melts in your mouth.

Mushroom-flavored water spinach (Shui Xing Yang Hua): a Yunnan specialty. You have to try it when in Yunnan. It's a wild vegetable that grows in lakes; you eat the stems, which are smooth, crunchy, and with a mushroom aroma—very light and fragrant.

I heard their homemade wine is excellent. Unfortunately, none of us drink, or I would have loved to try some. Now I kind of regret it; such a beautiful night deserved a bit of a tipsy feeling.

Dali has long been praised for its four wonders: "Lower Pass wind, Upper Pass flowers, Cangshan snow, and Erhai moon." These four are truly remarkable and enchanting. But on this trip, upon a local friend's recommendation, I discovered another raw and mysterious place: "Fengyangyi," not far from Dali Ancient Town—a stone village hidden along the only remaining stretch of the ancient Tea Horse Road in Dali!

The Tea Horse Road originated during the Tang and Song dynasties as a "tea-for-horse" trade, enabling exchange between Tibetan and inland areas. The Fengyangyi section of the Tea Horse Road lies along the Dafeng Road between Xiaguan and Dali and is part of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea Horse Road. This ancient path was first built in the Han Dynasty and took shape during the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdom periods. It is 1,900 meters long and relatively well-preserved, the only remaining ancient road within Dali.

The Tea Horse Road passes the ruins of the Nanzhao capital, Taihe City, and then enters Fengyangyi Village to the north. Fengyangyi Village was originally called "Brick Kiln" because historically it mainly produced bricks, tiles, and pottery. Later, inspired by the auspicious phrase "phoenix greeting the morning sun," it was renamed "Fengyangyi." The village's most distinctive feature is its houses built with irregular stones, embodying Dali's architectural trait of "stone walls that don't fall."

Most of the dwellings are traditional Dali-style "earth storehouses," with walls built of cobblestones and dressed stone below the eaves. Over 40 such earthen houses still retain their original appearance. Walking among them, with their mottled adobe walls, grass-thatched roofs, and smooth, rounded stone floors, you can deeply feel the marks left by history. It's easy to imagine the countless horses that once traveled here, carrying the hopes of different ethnic groups along both sides of the ancient road.

As I wandered, I noticed something interesting: many walls had prickly pears growing thickly on top. I asked a passing villager and was told that planting cacti on walls wards off evil spirits. So that's the reason!

On the wall of a seemingly abandoned house, there was a shell wall. A shell wall, as the name suggests, is made by mixing shells with mud and ramming it into a wall. This makes the wall stronger and more durable, less likely to crack. Such walls were often used by residents along rivers or lakes, using local materials and possessing a unique character.

While strolling in the village, I ran into three kids who said they were going to fetch water from Guanyin Well. Curious, I followed them. Guanyin Well was hidden beneath a very inconspicuous stone staircase by the roadside—a rectangular well not too large, with a statue of Guanyin above it, hence the name. The villagers get their drinking water here; it's unpolluted and directly drinkable. The little girl was so thirsty that as soon as she reached the well, she gulped down half a ladleful.

She was extremely friendly and insisted on taking me to her home. After chatting, I learned that their parents had gone to work in Dali Ancient Town, leaving them with their grandparents. The eldest boy was responsible for cooking meals for the whole family—so responsible!

Fengyangyi was also once known as "Straw Hat Street" because of its thriving straw hat trade. Even today, Bai grannies sit in the village square weaving straw hats. An old lady greeted me warmly and asked where I was from, her face beaming with a happy, contented smile. If you have time, sit down beside them and chat—you're bound to hear many interesting and moving stories.

Fengyangyi hasn't been fully developed yet; there are only a few B&Bs run by locals, and tourists are still rare. If you want to experience the deep history of the Tea Horse Road and the ancient houses and simple way of life of the Bai people, this is an excellent choice. Far from the bustle, it's easy to oversleep in the morning, waking only to birdsong. Run your hands over the stone walls that carry profound historical imprints, take a sip of the sweet water from Guanyin Well, and share stories with Bai grannies—what a relaxing and unique experience!

[Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple]

My earliest impression of Dali probably comes from Jin Yong's "Demigods and Semi-Devils," especially the devoted Duan Yu. So I made a special trip to the Three Pagodas to see the place where Duan Yu, along with 30 other emperors of the Duan family, became monks.

The Three Pagodas are located 1.5 kilometers northwest of Dali Ancient Town, facing Cangshan's Yinglo Peak to the west and Erhai Lake to the east. Chongsheng Temple was once the royal temple of the Duan family, though the original temple is long gone. What you see today was rebuilt in recent years; only the three ancient pagodas in front are millennium-old relics.

Construction of the Three Pagodas began during the Nanzhao period under King Quanfengyou (AD 824–859). First was the large pagoda, "Qianxun Pagoda," standing 69.13 meters tall—a square, multi-eaved brick pagoda with 16 tiers. Later, the two smaller pagodas were added to the south and north, both 42.19 meters high, octagonal brick pagodas with 10 tiers. Beyond their religious significance, an important reason for building the pagodas was that ancient Dali was a "land of marshes and frequent floods," and pagodas were believed to subdue water.

The best way to visit the Three Pagodas is to enter the scenic area and take a sightseeing electric cart to the highest point, the Mahavira Hall of Chongsheng Temple, then walk down the steps, reaching the Three Pagodas at the end.

Not far from the Three Pagodas, there's a Three Pagodas Reflection Park, which offers a great angle to admire them—the reflections in the water make them even more vivid. The reflection park shares a combined ticket with the Three Pagodas scenic area. Its closing time is earlier than the main site, so be sure to plan your visit accordingly.