Yunnan Travel | Beside Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, Falling into the Romance of Dali

"If you're unhappy with life, why not head west to Dali?" – these words from a song have made Dali a must-visit destination for countless travelers. In fact, both Ning Hao's film *Breakup Buddies* and its soundtrack song *Go to Dali* have established this place as a sanctuary for the soul. Just like in the movie when Huang Bo's character Geng Hao, suffering an emotional crisis, comes here accompanied by Xu Zheng's Hao Yi, Dali can ease or heal whatever hardship life has thrown at you—there's a magical charm to it. I've been to Dali many times. After having visited iconic spots like the Three Pagodas and the Old Town, this time I decided to explore the Bai villages by Erhai Lake to experience a different side of Dali.

Erhai Lake Longkan Wharf: Filming Location of *Breakup Buddies*

As mentioned, Dali was a filming location for *Breakup Buddies*. You might wonder where exactly that beautiful scenery from the movie is—it's actually in Longkan Village in Dali Town.

Longkan Village is one of the nearest villages to the Old Town, just east of it and right by Erhai Lake. It's not far—a ten-minute drive from outside the Old Town. To the north lies Cai Village, another well-known lakeside settlement, but people prefer to call this spot 'Longkan Wharf.' Don’t be fooled by its ancient-town charm; it's actually a typical small Bai village that was quite impoverished before renovation work gradually reshaped it starting in 2006. Construction still continues, and sometimes parts are closed off, yet visitors still come, because it feels as if all the tranquility of Dali is gathered right here.

Although the parking lot at the entrance gets crowded, there are surprisingly few visitors inside. Longkan Village is just a stone's throw from the Old Town, yet it's a completely different world. Contrasted with the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds and bustling street cries in the old quarter, the first sensation upon entering Longkan is 'quiet.' It's not silence, but an inner peace: the blush-tinted dawn redwoods standing in Erhai Lake, the gentle lapping of waves on the shore, the soft murmurs of passing travelers, and the breeze brushing your face all combine to give anyone sitting by the water a special sense of calm. That's why I say all of Dali's tranquility is found here.

Dali's temperature is perfectly pleasant. Even in the chilly winter, apart from a few odd days, fine-weather days hover around 20°C—just right. Spring and autumn are even more comfortable. Under the warm sun, the dawn redwoods have turned a lovely red, carrying a hint of autumnal flavor. I casually picked up a quirky-shaped leaf from the roadside and snapped a photo, capturing the best of Erhai Lake. How could such a lake not win your heart?

The roads in Longkan Village are excellent, and strolling along Erhai Lake is wonderfully peaceful. Motor vehicles are not allowed inside, so riding a bicycle is a great alternative. Shared bikes are scarce here; I struggled to find one and dared not lock it up for fear someone would ride off with it. Even as I carefully 'guarded' the bike, plenty of other tourists eyed it—several groups came over to borrow it for photos. It turned out to be quite the 'posing prop.' With the bike, I could cover more ground and soon reached the wetland park ahead.

I have to say Longkan's environment is truly excellent. Besides the crystal-clear Erhai Lake and wetland park, the best proof is the flock of waterbirds nearby. Perhaps it wasn't the right time, but unlike at Dianchi Lake, these birds didn't swarm visitors begging for food; they simply gathered far out on the water. I couldn't tell if they were local waterfowl or red-billed gulls from Siberia.

If you're a fan of *Breakup Buddies*, you might search for the Wutong Inn, but there is no real Wutong Inn—it was made up for the film. Although a few guesthouses have opened here, they are few, relatively expensive, and offer limited options. Plus, there are hardly any places to eat or have afternoon tea nearby. For accommodation, it's better to return to the Old Town area.

I feel that Longkan Wharf is the most rustic and natural of all Dali's attractions. The pastoral scenery and the deep serenity of Erhai Lake are on full display here. However, the area is still under development; future infrastructure will likely be more complete, but I hope this simplicity and natural beauty will be preserved as much as possible, so that travelers weary of life may still have a soulful haven to wander, feel the breeze, and gaze at the lake.

Cai Village: The Most Popular Bai Village by Erhai Lake

Dali is a Bai Autonomous Prefecture, naturally making it a gathering place for the Bai people. Along the shores encircling Erhai Lake, countless Bai villages have existed for generations—some relatively quiet, others transformed into popular attractions. And the most popular Bai village by Erhai is none other than Cai Village, located east of Dali Old Town.

Cai Village connects to Wa Village; both historically lived off fishing. Perhaps thanks to its proximity to the Old Town, this area became popular as Dali rose to fame. An influx of tourists overwhelmed the once-pristine village, leading to overcharging, and too many tourist boats put huge pressure on Erhai Lake. Safety issues with private boats also arose, so many visitors shunned the area. Then a rectification began: over 40 private boats were banned, the remaining 20 were managed by a newly established company with clear pricing, and travelers gradually returned. This turned Cai Village into the natural, original village hosting the most visitors along Erhai Lake.

I had taken a boat trip from Cai Village pier before, so this time I simply strolled along Erhai Lake without boarding a boat. Walking along, I noticed many houses built a little offshore in the water, accessed by short footpaths. Whether homes or guesthouses, they all looked beautiful, evoking a 'water house' feeling.

These structures don't look like a 'village' at all; they represent Cai Village's new look. After the boat crackdown, pollution control and environmental restoration swiftly followed, aiming to restore Cai Village to its former self—after all, 'lucid waters and lush mountains are invaluable assets.' The main restoration project was constructing a wetland park. The water in the wetland doesn't come from Erhai Lake but from Zhonghe Creek on Cangshan Mountain; it's channeled into the park, where it settles and purifies before flowing into the lake, acting like a 'cleanser.' Besides its water purification function, the wetland itself is a gorgeous sight.

If there's one 'old thing' left by the lake, it's that shabby pavilion. I think it was called 'Sea-Viewing Pavilion,' but I can't quite remember. All I know is it stands right by Erhai, so dilapidated that the roof has gaping holes, yet it still endures through wind and rain for who knows how many years, holding memories of old Cai Village. Curiously, this broken pavilion seems to have become a 'photo-check-in spot' on Erhai's shore, with many tourists to Cai Village snapping souvenir pictures here.

It must be said that Cai Village's popularity isn't only due to its closeness to the Old Town—the scenery here really is beautiful. The whole village adjoins Erhai Lake and you can walk right to the water's edge. Although Cai Village lacks the imported dawn redwoods of Longkan Wharf, it does have trees growing in the water, like this one standing alone by the shore, which could be called 'the loneliest tree in Cai Village.'

If that tree is the loneliest tree, then this bird is the loneliest bird. While other waterfowl flock together, it stands alone on a stone in the middle of the water, as if listening to the waves or deep in thought. It doesn't budge an inch. I wonder if it, too, is a heartbroken bird that flew to Dali to heal.

Despite ongoing development, much of Cai Village's original character has been preserved. The village houses over a dozen well-kept temples—the God of Wealth Temple, Benzhu Temple, Kuixing Pavilion, and clan ancestral halls—making it a living Bai culture museum. The most intriguing is the Yu'an Shrine. The name sounds like an ancestral hall, but it enshrines a deity called 'Great-aunt Zhang'—a local Bai god few have heard of. It's said that long ago there was a Baizi Kingdom, and the king's aunt cared deeply about the common people's hardships. After death, she became a deity protecting the Bai who went fishing at sea, hence the shrine. When I visited, people were still praying inside. It's best not to photograph the statues, but you can go see for yourself if you're interested.

In addition to the lovely wetland park and rich Bai culture, Cai Village has better infrastructure compared with other Bai villages. There are over 120 guesthouses and more than 20 eateries, enough to meet basic travel needs. So when you're in Dali, take a stroll here—the natural beauty and cultural highlights will make your trip worthwhile. But for more convenient lodging, the Old Town area is still the best bet.

Tinghua Tang: A Romantic Guesthouse Surrounded by a Sea of Flowers

When you're in Dali, of course you stay at a guesthouse. A boutique guesthouse has far more charm than any star-rated hotel and lets you immerse yourself more deeply in Dali's romance. That's why I choose a different guesthouse each time I come: I've experienced the bustling energy of Dali Old Town and listened to Erhai Lake's gentle waves. This time, I stayed at Tinghua Tang in Shimen Village, Dali Town, to sample a more romantic side of Dali.

This guesthouse sits next to Dali Old Town, separated only by a street. That street shields it from the hubbub, making it perfect for travelers who cherish quiet. Fancy a bit of liveliness? Just a few steps take you into the ancient quarter. Need peace? You can instantly return to your own little world. Despite the short distance, the guesthouse offers shuttle service, which is very convenient. Even from the shuttle, you can already see the white building surrounded by a sea of flowers, full of vitality and romance.

Tinghua Tang—just as the name suggests ('Listening to Flowers Hall'), this is a world of flowers. Perhaps because it isn't crammed into the narrow old town, there's ample space to create this blooming wonder. No matter the season, the place is always wrapped in blossoms. With warm sunlight slanting into the courtyard, it's no exaggeration to call it the most romantic guesthouse in Dali.

The entire courtyard isn't just a pile of flowers; it's been carefully designed. The floral archways and birdcage-like decorations create a dreamy atmosphere, complemented by a rocking horse and a swing—as if stepping into an Alice-in-Wonderland world. Tables and chairs are set out; pick a sunny afternoon, brew a pot of tea, sit in the garden and leaf through a book in total relaxation.

Right next to the garden is the guesthouse's common area, which also houses the reception. Two walls are floor-to-ceiling windows, letting sunlight stream in and offering a constant view of the flower sea. The décor is minimalist yet sophisticated; a solid-color base accented with vibrant tables and chairs is visually pleasing. The courteous, friendly front desk staff ensure a wonderful experience even before you check in.

The common area is a 'transformer.' In the morning it serves as the breakfast room. Breakfast is cooked to order: a steaming bowl of rice noodles, a freshly fried egg, soft sweet corn, and a glass of nutritious milk. Greeted by the first rays of morning sun, a perfect day begins just like this.

In the evening, it morphs into a cozy lounge bar. There's no head-banging disco din, just soothing folk music. Gather a few friends for a chat and a light drink, and it's a whole different vibe. Even if you're alone, you needn't worry—you might make some new friends in this public space. As for a romantic 'encounter,' that depends on your luck.

Of course, a guesthouse is ultimately a place to stay, and comfort matters even more than ambiance. Tinghua Tang doesn't disappoint here either. Returning in the evening, the hallway still felt like daytime—because the walls are designed with simulated windows, lit to create the illusion of perpetual daylight.

I booked the 'Petal Sea Supreme King Room', and the moment I stepped in I was wowed. The room is cave-style, as if I was back in Cappadocia, Turkey. True to its name 'Petal Sea,' floral elements are everywhere, with dried flowers adorning the walls and ceiling, creating a very romantic atmosphere.

Plus, the amenities are very comfortable. Many people think guesthouses can't compare to star-rated hotels, but that's a big misconception—many guesthouses are just as comfortable, and Tinghua Tang is one of them. The bed linens are crisp and clean, the mattress is soft and plush, and pillows are separated into cushions and sleeping pillows. Lying down felt so good that after watching a bit of TV, drowsiness hit, and I slept soundly all night.

Although it's a guesthouse, toiletries are fully provided. If, like me, you're a lazy traveler who prefers to bring nothing, Tinghua Tang is a great choice. After all, lugging clothes is heavy enough; if you also haul big bags of toiletries, you lose that leisurely holiday feeling.

I deliberately left the light on at night so I'd be woken by the first rays of morning sun. I loved the floor-to-ceiling windows; just sitting by the window felt like a luxury. I heard other room types also feature these windows. After freshening up, I went downstairs for breakfast, with no fixed destination in mind, simply planning to wander around the Old Town. Days in Dali should be unhurried, leisurely, and long. Tinghua Tang lets you listen not only to flowers but also to the wind and nights of Dali.

This is exactly the Dali life I yearn for: waking up naturally in the morning, then heading to Erhai Lake to feel the breeze, humming a melodic folk tune, strolling unhurriedly. Life is never just about the immediate humdrum—but poetry and distant horizons are for us to seek. I look forward to meeting Dali again next time.