Legendary Journey – 2021 Golden Autumn in Henan: Extra Chapter – Clothing, Food, Shelter, and Travel at Laojun Mountain

📍 Dali · 👁 2 reads · ❤️ 153 likes

Legendary Journey – 2021 Golden Autumn in Henan Travelogue (covering six 5A-rated scenic spots, two people dining and lodging for 2,100 yuan, great value, lucky and joyful)

Having been a Ctrip member for 21 years, I haven't written a travelogue in over six years – I've grown lazy. Most of the 42 travelogues still on Ctrip now lack images, losing much of their charm. (Today, I happened to check the Ctrip community and found three more travelogues missing, likely old posts from 20 years ago.) Hundreds of thousands of views and over a hundred comments are all cherished memories now.

This October, I embarked on an impromptu trip, and looking back, it was incredibly lucky – we had a great time, spent little, and most importantly, perfectly avoided the pandemic.

The trip took place from October 16 to 24, 2021, just as a new wave of outbreaks hit Inner Mongolia and later spread to Henan and Shanxi. Shortly after returning to Dalian, a month-long outbreak began on November 4, keeping us indoors. Thinking back, this trip was truly fortunate.

Because of this stroke of luck, on November 20, 2021, I decided to pick up the pen again, first drafting an outline and a simple account. If anyone was interested, I’d gradually add details and photos. I didn’t expect the post to reach nearly 5,000 views in a week and surpass 10,000 a month later. People actually read it! So I wrote an extra chapter on Laojun Mountain, which became even more popular, hitting 5,000 views in two days with over 30 comments. Overwhelmed, I decided to spend Christmas at home and write a few more travelogue sections.

The nine-day itinerary traversed Henan, Shanxi, and Shandong provinces, covering 2,100 kilometers by car, with two people spending a total of 6,347 yuan. Aside from transport, dining, lodging, and activities cost 2,086 yuan. Detailed breakdowns follow.

This trip was made possible thanks to Henan’s “Encounter Golden Autumn, Favor Hometown” tourism campaign from October 10 to November 10, 2021. The free ticket offer inspired my wife and me to visit Henan.

During the campaign, 432 A-rated scenic spots in Henan enthusiastically participated, offering free admission to visitors nationwide, accounting for 74.48% of the province’s A-rated spots.

Among 19 5A-rated scenic spots, 16 joined the free ticket program: Longmen Grottoes, Longtan Grand Canyon, Baiyun Mountain, and Laojun Mountain–Jiguan Cave in Luoyang; Yaoshan Scenic Area in Pingdingshan; Yin Ruins, Hongqi Canal, and Taihang Grand Canyon in Anyang; Yuntai Mountain, Qingtian River, and Shennong Mountain in Jiaozuo; Baligou Scenic Area in Xinxiang; Dinosaur Relics Park and Laojie Ridge in Nanyang; Mangdangshan Tourist Area in Shangqiu; and Chaya Mountain Scenic Area in Zhumadian.

From the idea of visiting Henan to actually going, only a week passed, leaving my boss bewildered when I requested time off – why such a sudden rush for annual leave? On October 12, I booked flights on Ctrip: outward at 2.9-fold discount economy class; return at 2.5-fold discount saver economy class, totaling just 610 yuan per person round trip – incredibly cheap.

After booking flights, I started researching itinerary and attractions, for the first time boldly declaring I’d only visit 5A-rated spots, only to discover Henan’s tourism resources are so rich, I couldn’t possibly cover all its 5A spots in my limited time!

The highlight of the 2021 golden autumn trip to Henan was undoubtedly Laojun Mountain.

First, let’s break down the expenses.

Thanks to Henan’s “Encounter Golden Autumn, Favor Hometown” tourism campaign, admission was free! (worth 90 yuan per person, saving us 180 yuan as a couple)

Self-brought dinner + breakfast: 158 yuan

Night accommodation: 350 yuan (Fenghui Mountain Villa)

First cable car round trip: 260 yuan

Second cable car downhill: 80 yuan

Clothing rental: 80 yuan (red cape 50 yuan, police-style overcoat 30 yuan)

Instant noodles at Jinding: 12 yuan (superb!)

Parking fee: 10 yuan (incredibly cheap for 23 hours of parking)

Total for two people in a day, including meals, lodging, and transport: 910 yuan

To be honest, a week before departure, I, a self-proclaimed travel expert, didn’t even know Laojun Mountain existed. It wasn’t until I did my homework and saw videos online of Laojun Mountain’s ethereal beauty, especially aerial shots overlooking Jinding and the sea of clouds, that I was stunned. Enchanted by this “unique sacred realm under heaven, the world’s number one immortal mountain,” I immediately decided to visit Laojun Mountain no matter what, stay a night on the mountain, and watch the sunrise and sea of clouds in the morning.

Before departure, I paid special attention to accommodation on Laojun Mountain. Reports suggested that during peak season, beds were hard to come by. I communicated in advance through WeChat with the owner of Fenghui Mountain Villa, near the summit, and orally reserved a small wooden cabin for one night.

We set off from our Luoyang lodging in the morning, driving three and a half hours to Laojun Mountain scenic area. The plan was to have lunch before ascending, but perhaps due to a heavy breakfast, we weren’t hungry and decided to eat on the mountain. Approaching the scenic area entrance, we could see the highest Jinding from afar, its golden halls seemingly floating in the sky against the blue backdrop, captivating our souls. Instantly, expectations for the Laojun Mountain trip soared.

The pedestrian entrance and self-driving entrance were separate, and checking the reservation code wasn’t strict – a glance at our phone screens sufficed for entry, very generous, unlike the unpleasantness reported online on the first day of free admission.

Scenic area main ticket: 90 yuan/person (during our visit, it was free with prior reservation via a mini-program, available three days in advance, easy to book. I later heard that White Horse Temple was hard to get reservations for.)

First-level cable car: Zhongling Cable Car 130 yuan/person (round trip)

Yunjing Cable Car 130 yuan/person (round trip) – We took this round trip, allowed to use the return ticket the next day.

Second-level cable car: Fenglin Cable Car 80 yuan/person (round trip) – we only took the downhill one-way (40 yuan).

From the scenic area gate to the parking lot below the first cable car station, it was about a ten-minute drive. The closer lots were already packed, but staff maintained order all along – slow but orderly. Eventually, we parked at the eighth parking lot after passing through a tunnel, furthest from the cable car entrance. This lot looked newly built, flat but unpaved; the best part was the new, clean restroom, allowing a good rest before ascending.

Although not peak tourist season, many people came to Laojun Mountain, many carrying bamboo poles sold by roadside vendors – five yuan for three sticks, very cheap, likely reusable. Having not seen advice to use hiking poles in my research, I didn’t buy any – a wise decision, as the mountain paths are well-paved, and poles are unnecessary if sticking to main roads.

Interestingly, once inside the scenic area, Jinding disappeared from view – “Unable to see Jinding’s true face, only because within the mountain itself.”

We loaded food and drinks into our backpacks and headed to the cable car.

The first-level cable car had two lines: Zhongling and Yunjing, typically one operating while the other rested. During our visit, Yunjing was running. The entrances were close, with many guesthouses and restaurants nearby.

At the ticket booth near the cable car entrance, crowds bustled, with many queuing. I told my wife to wait while I queued to buy tickets, but before I reached the counter, she called me out – she’d bought the cable car tickets on her phone (embarrassing... I thought I was the travel expert).

Near the cable car entrance, there were many clothing rentals and food stalls. I asked about cape prices – same as mentioned in guides, 50 yuan a day on the mountain – so we decided against renting at the foot, which proved wise, as lugging a heavy coat while climbing would be tough.

We then queued at the “Panlong Town” entrance for the cable car, winding for nearly an hour before finally boarding around noon. You can imagine the queues during peak season.

The cable car was new, seating eight fully. It hung high, the tallest section at least 50 meters up. My wife excitedly took photos, while I quietly huddled in a corner, peering out the large windows. I’ve ridden cable cars many times, never feeling so acrophobic!

Overall, the cable car was steady, only jolting at each support pillar, making my heart jump. Many ventilation holes let in mountain winds, both refreshing and slightly frightening.

After the first cable car, we arrived at Zhongtianmen Square.

We strolled briefly, then started climbing stairs uphill. Many people, over five hundred steps, were tiring at first. There was little scenery; I’d recommend taking the second cable car if budget allows!

As we neared the summit, Jinding came back into view, sparking such excitement! (omitting 2,500 words here)

Accommodation on Laojun Mountain is a major issue; I strongly advise booking in advance. We visited in late October, thinking we’d missed peak season, so I found a villa online, called to reserve, and added the owner on WeChat to book a room. They asked for prepayment, which I declined. A two-person wooden cabin was 350 yuan. I’d seen the hilltop youth hostel priced at 100–300 per bed, advertised as just outside Jinding, perfect for watching sunrise and starry skies, but with limited facilities – shared rooms, washing only in restrooms, inconvenient; during peak season, beds can be tight. I figured I’d book on arrival.

From Fenghui Mountain Villa to Jinding, it was said to be a 20-minute stair climb. For early sunrise, that seemed inconvenient, so I wanted to stay at the youth hostel atop Jinding, but it didn’t accept advance bookings – you had to check on-site. Since it wasn’t peak season, I assumed beds would be available.

But we passed Fenghui Mountain Villa without stopping, followed the main road to the summit, found the youth hostel around 3 p.m., and were told all beds were full.

I panicked, not expecting such tight accommodation on Laojun Mountain. I immediately contacted the villa owner via WeChat – thankfully, rooms were still available, so I paid in full to secure one. Later, I realized the villa’s location was indeed close to Jinding: uphill via a direct stairway took 20 minutes; downhill, less than ten minutes, very quick.

The owner even complained, “You must have passed by here on the way up; why didn’t you leave your luggage here? You had to carry it all the way up.” I couldn’t honestly say I’d still hoped to stay at Jinding’s summit.

Nearby, there’s a shortcut uphill – all stairs, reaching Jinding in 20–30 minutes, good if time is short. But you’d miss the scenery of Ten-Mile Painting Corridor. Here are some photos from that area:

On the way, Laozi Asking the Way – incredibly lifelike! We followed the crowd along the main road uphill, through Ten-Mile Painting Corridor, scenery at every turn, finally reaching Jinding via Nantianmen – breathtakingly beautiful, like heaven on earth!

This last photo roughly shows the entire Jinding architectural complex square. Let’s now review Laojun Mountain’s attractions.

Undoubtedly, Jinding Daoist Temple Complex is the most soul-stirring sight, an absolute fairyland.

Laojun Mountain’s main peak features Liangbaotai and Yuhuangding facing each other, with a gate called Nantianmen between, deeply symbolic. Inside the gate is a platform, with Laojun Hall in front and Sutra Repository behind, both called Laozi Tower in Ming and Qing dynasties. Liangbaotai, legend says, is where Taishang Laojun displayed treasures. Originally built in Northern Wei, rebuilt many times; during Tang, Wei Chijingde supervised a renovation. Ming saw its heyday, with iron rafters, tiles, a large iron bell, and bronze ox, resplendent in gold. Destroyed in the early 1950s, the current temple was rebuilt in 2004. The front hall, “Jinding Taiqing Guan,” symbolizes the sun illuminating gold, housing Taishang Laojun and attendant deities. The rear hall, Daode Fu, held scriptures. This large iron bell, cast in 1519 (Ming Wanli 19th year), is 1.5 meters high, 1.3 meters in diameter, 3.7 cm thick, weighing about 2 tons, with exquisite patterns and a clear, forceful inscription: “Long live the emperor, eternal prince, favorable weather, nation at peace.” Smaller characters, eroded by time, are unreadable.

I recommend circling the outside of Jindian – the view is fantastic, especially of the opposite Liangbaotai and Yuhuangding. Inside, Jindian honors the Queen Mother of the West, unremarkable aside from a small plaque reading “Mother of All Under Heaven,” which felt odd.

If you have time, climb either Liangbaotai or Yuhuangding – higher than Jindian with better vantage points for photographing Jindian and the mountain views.

When crowded, climbing Liangbaotai or Yuhuangding is a challenge – steep steps, no turning back; grit your teeth to the top, then descend the other side (actually parallel steps separated by an iron chain). For sunrise photography, head to Laojun Mountain’s highest peak – Mazong Ridge (2,217 meters), capturing the entire Jindian complex.

Two peaks opposite Jindian resemble a horse’s head, while the ridge behind is like a mane, hence named Mazong Ridge, Laojun Mountain’s highest peak at 2,200 meters, the best spot for natural scenery.

Beyond Daoist architecture, south of Mazong Ridge lies Ten-Mile Painting Corridor, with about 3,000 mu of stone forest geology, called by geologists the “Northern Stone Forest,” truly rare. The entire corridor via suspended walkways and stairs offers strange peaks, elegant rocks, and a cloud-wandering feel. The approximate route:

Fairyland Tunnel – Thousand-Year Maple King – Heavenly Gate Opening – Laozi’s Sutra Transmission Stone – One Beauty Peak – Old Man Watching Mountain – Lovebirds Harmony – Bajie’s Immortal Visit – Elephant Formless – Companion Fairyland – Fairy Greeting Guests – Tai Chi Maze – Retreat to Enlighten – Laozi Enlightenment Peak – Lotus Steps – Heavenly King Watches Sea – Ethereal Void – Thousand-Foot Cliff – Guanyin Appreciates Music – Tianpeng Seeks Tao – Taibai Slope – Watershed – Mazong Ridge Summit – Nantianmen – Jinding Daoist Temple Complex

Alternatively, take the main road from Fairyland Tunnel; in about an hour and a half, you reach Nantianmen.

Jinding Daoist Temple Complex includes: Daode Fu Front Square, Mazong Ridge, Yuhuangding, Laojun Temple, Bell and Drum Tower. Laojun Temple enshrines Sun Simiao, known as the “King of Medicine” in Daoism, a renowned historical medical scientist and pharmacist.

Note: Daoism has four major divine doctors: Bian Que (early Warring States), Zhang Zhongjing (late Eastern Han), Hua Tuo (late Eastern Han), and Sun Simiao (Tang dynasty).

Recommended sunrise spots: Mazong Ridge, Yuhuangding, Ten-Mile Painting Corridor.

Recommended sunset spots: Liangbaotai, Body-Cliff, Daode Fu Front Square.

Mountain accommodation is spartan. Our wooden cabin, probably better than others, had very poor soundproofing. With electric blankets, it wasn’t too cold, but due to poor insulation, people trickled back late, still chatting past 11 p.m., making rest hard.

For the climb, we prepared a roast chicken, three self-heating rice sets, and a self-heating hotpot.

Eating self-heating hotpot and rice felt great – warm and comforting, paired with our own side dishes, sausages, breakfast pastries, and buns (especially good soaked in hotpot broth).

We woke around 4 a.m., couldn’t sleep, and set off before 5 a.m. for sunrise. I’d checked: around October 20, sunrise was past 6 a.m. Starting at 5 a.m. was a bit early. On the shortcut next to the villa, few tourists were around, mainly porters – mostly elderly men and women in their sixties or seventies – carrying boxes of instant noodles and drinks.

Besides shoulder poles, they used a stick as a crucial tool: when resting, they’d prop the pole with the stick, sit without lowering the load, then resume easily. Walking, they could pause briefly using the stick for support.

The same path I’d descended the night before in under ten minutes took nearly half an hour uphill in the morning, with frequent stops. The porters kept a similar pace, taking short breaks then briskly climbing. One elderly man with the heaviest load said he earned 36 yuan per trip. When asked how many trips a day, he said only one morning trip – it’s exhausting manual labor, and with more tourists later, the path becomes impassable for work.

I recall an article about life’s hardships: if life feels tough, hit the streets at 4 a.m., see the busy people, and you’ll realize nothing’s truly hard. Biking up Laojun Mountain at 5 a.m., I genuinely felt the porters’ struggles – all in their sixties and seventies.

By 5:30, I reached Jinding, much earlier than expected. The viewing platform had few people; sunrise was still far off. I decided to push on to the highest peak, Mazong Ridge. From that vantage point, you see the full Jinding panorama and sunrise – the best view – and it killed time; it was too early and too cold.

My wife wore her rented red cape, claiming it was warm. I’d rented a police-style overcoat at our lodging; though the largest size (marked 4XL), it was still tight, and all the buttons had fallen off, so I had to keep clutching it shut – letting go meant losing warmth in front. At least the thick cotton trousers I’d bought before the trip kept my legs warm.

I retraced some of yesterday’s steps, passing Nantianmen and part of Ten-Mile Painting Corridor again. In the morning, with no one around, the scenery had a different flavor, but lacked yesterday’s first-time wonder!

Clothing rental prices were uniform: red capes 50 yuan/day, military coats 30 yuan. If staying overnight or watching sunrise, renting clothes is essential. Especially for women, various styles are available; the red cape with white long-pile lining looks stunning in photos.

Dress warmly, warmly, warmly for Laojun Mountain! The summit is frigid. If bothersome, rent clothes. From the foot to Zhongtianmen, cotton-padded jackets and windbreakers are available; at summit lodgings, rental clothes cost the same, with enough stock, though prettier styles may be taken first.

In the morning, almost no one was around, starkly contrasting yesterday’s bustle. Most notably, at Nantianmen, where yesterday a photo without strangers was impossible, this morning it was utterly empty – I snapped a couple of shots.

As sunrise approached, after half an hour of walking and shooting, I climbed Mazong Ridge, the highest peak. Actually, from the main path of Ten-Mile Painting Corridor, it’s only five or six minutes up. It’s indeed higher than Jinding, offering a better distant view, but the sun hadn’t risen yet, and it was very dark.

Ultimately, I saw the sunrise, but no sea of clouds, nor did the mountaintop snow – a slight regret. But life isn’t perfect; being able to spend a night on the mountain, catch Jinding’s sunset glow and illuminations the previous evening, and eat a steaming self-heating hotpot and rice on the mountain was already bliss.

The scenic area has many rest zones selling drinks, bread, instant noodles, noodles, corn, etc. Summit lodgings also cook meals (noodles, breakfast porridge, and pancakes) and sell items at slightly higher prices; if fussy, bring some snacks.

Descending, we carried all our food trash and took both cable cars.

One more note on accommodation: bathrooms. They’re all outdoor public facilities. From our villa, we walked a winding seven or eight minutes to the restroom; it seemed close but wasn’t. Later, the owner said he’d open the row of individual cubicles below the public restroom at night, cutting the walk to three or four minutes – near the path, less clean than the upper one, no sink, but essential for braving the cold night.

While waiting for the downhill cable car, I noticed many Daoist texts on the walls, quite interesting, often encapsulating Daoist thought.

Honestly, food on Laojun Mountain isn’t expensive. Instant noodles at ten yuan a bucket might seem slightly high, but that’s about it. Other items – snacks, drinks – are fairly priced, not much pricier than the foot.

Before ascending, we’d over-prepared, lugging lots of food back down. We’d brought a roast chicken, one small self-heating pot, two self-heating rice packs, assorted pastries, cold dishes, a breakfast cold vegetable mix, a packaged fried fish, some Harbin red sausage, my wife’s coveted spicy tofu rolls, a beer, four 200ml yogurts, two drinks, three bottles of mineral water. In hindsight, it was too much. On the mountain, we only had a bucket of instant noodles – while waiting for the evening light show – not from hunger, but from bitter cold, craving warmth. Eating a hot bucket of noodles at Jinding wasn’t a photo prop; it was a bodily necessity!

Finally, let’s organize essential tips for Laojun Mountain’s clothing, food, shelter, and travel:

Start with “clothing”: During ascent and descent, dress as you would at the foot; you won’t feel cold, and climbing stairs may even make you warm. The summit is chilly, especially at dawn and dusk. If watching sunrise, sunset, or the light show, rent clothing at the summit – no need to rent at the foot or halfway. When it starts feeling cool, rent then. If out early or late, extra layers are non-negotiable.

Summit and foot rental prices are the same; summit options may be fewer and quality slightly lower, but that’s fine for temporary use – don’t burden yourself.

Next, “food”: Small shops and eateries on the mountain sell snacks. Most famous is Jinding’s instant noodles at ten yuan a bucket – fair price, and a bowl of hot soup is a luxury on the frigid peak.

Also, snack stalls offer noodles, snacks, tea eggs, reasonably priced. I brought too much and only ate instant noodles twice, morning and evening. But judging by prices, they’re not expensive; quality seems fine. I suggest carrying minimal heavy food and drinks – buy as needed.

“Shelter” on Laojun Mountain: Plenty of inns and hotels at the foot, no need to elaborate. Summit stays require mental preparation: hygiene is poorer, no indoor bathrooms – all outdoor. During the day, public summit restrooms deteriorate; in winter, freezing may cut water, intensifying odors; at night, no cleaning... you get it.

There’s accommodation at the second cable car exit; when I went, rooms were gone, only double tents at 300 yuan.

“Travel” on Laojun Mountain: We drove, convenient with a separate self-drive entrance and large parking near the cable car. The cable car is unavoidable: first level by cable car – walking is far with massive elevation gain and little scenery; second level depends on your condition. If time allows, climb stairs; the uphill time isn’t long.

As for routes, taking the main road, never miss the Ten-Mile Painting Corridor section. It takes normal crowds one and a half to two hours, with splendid scenery. Branching paths, like to Mazong Ridge, let you climb Laojun Mountain’s highest peak and overlook the Jinding complex, but most rush to Jinding without lingering. We had time the next morning, wide open.

Notably, after the second cable car, two uphill routes exist: the usual, longer, gentler path with great scenery, and an often-overlooked stair shortcut – well-maintained, about 20 minutes up without breaks, downhill just 8–10 minutes.

Key point: Official info says the downhill cable car stops at 6:30 p.m., but actually it runs until all light-show guests are aboard. So unless you really want sunrise, there’s no need to stay overnight; you can take the cable car down at night! The day I was there, it ran until 7:30 p.m.

Writing a travelogue partly by dictation is a first for me. On my daily commute, I speak into my phone’s WeChat voice-to-text, then edit – quite fun. I recall seeing writers use voice recorders; now ordinary folks can use such tech. Last week, I bought a Huawei MateBook E two-in-one laptop, largely for its speech-to-text feature.

Updated the Laojun Mountain travelogue on December 25, 2021 – successfully finished, the fastest handcrafted one ever. Thanks for the attention and comments.

If interested, search “Legendary Journey” for previous posts; some very dedicated ones aren’t as popular as this!