2022 Dali Spring Travelogue | Wind-Rippled Wheat Waves beneath Cangshan and Erhai
In the spring of 2022, as the pandemic spread nationwide, travel plans were suspended, and going out to enjoy spring became staying indoors. In severely affected cities, people remained at home fighting the virus. The season of blooming flowers and warm spring became a trying time. At the beginning of the year, an outbreak on New Year's Eve in Hangzhou hit the pause button; those who had bought flight tickets to go home were forced to cancel. Over the past two years, these repeated waves have become the norm. As conditions improved slightly — thanks to Hangzhou's swift pandemic response — I was able to travel to Dali, Yunnan in mid-March for my favorite trip: a circuit around Erhai Lake.
This isn't my first time in Dali. The most suitable season is spring, with temperatures in the low 20s Celsius and a big day–night difference. In March, the golden rapeseed flowers bloom and the wheat fields turn green — from a drone's perspective, the layers of yellow and green stand out beautifully, echoing the distant Erhai Lake. It's become the ultimate spring city for countless visitors checking in. Traveling now requires checking city conditions and transit stops; the freedom to roam at will is restricted. I'm not one for nostalgia; I try to process my daily travel photos and videos each day, capturing the joy of the moment. Since working in the travel industry, I deal with many tasks and communications daily, so self-discipline and time management have become especially important.
A vast expanse of gold — driving to Xizhou Ancient Town: Xizhou lies in the northern part of Dali City, with Cangshan Mountain to the west and Erhai Lake to the east. It's the hometown of the film 'Five Golden Flowers' and a historic town of the Bai ethnic group with over a thousand years of history. Within its area are the world-famous Butterfly Spring, the azalea-blanketed Cangshan Huadianba, the seaside scenic spot Haixinting Pavilion, and the natural wonder of Haishe (Tongue of the Sea) Scenic Area.
Seeing such a view from the sky lifts your spirits involuntarily, making you forget the two-year pandemic journey. Every day we've been concerned about the situation across the country. Before, I got to know a city through its scenic spots; in recent years, it's been through the pandemic that I learned about more places. I believe many people long for a return to normal life — no masks, going out happily, being able to set off for overseas destinations at a whim. The busy sakura season should belong to Japan, and I could even run into many old friends on the streets. The visas in my passport have expired; I eagerly await the day the borders reopen. Where will you go?
The wheat fields are green. Up close, I see an exuberance of life. Plants keep on doing their work through the four seasons — delicious fruits, abundant grains — unaffected by the world's troubles. This spot is relatively off the beaten path: vast paddy fields you can freely enter. Search for 'Liulü Agriculture' (Six Green Agriculture) — the entrance fee is 10 yuan per person, and you can go in to shoot stunning photos.
I borrowed a hat from my companion. The sun in Dali is strong even at 4 p.m. The best golden hour for photography is between 5:30 and 7:30 p.m., when the light is soft, you can open your eyes, and the light and shadows on your face won't look odd.
The next time you come to the city, the spring flavor isn't that strong. You'll see some cherry blossom trees blooming along the road. Do you know the name of the internet-famous bridge? You can also take a cruise on Erhai Lake for a circuit tour — the most relaxed and pleasant way. I haven't done it yet, but I'll arrange it next time if I have the chance.
Dali's pink cherry blossoms are in full bloom, drawing all kinds of visitors to check in. The blossoms are plump; every day is bright and clear, and the blooming period lasts long. If you look carefully, you'll find many scenes reminiscent of Japan.
In Dali, I think the best place for a vacation is Shuanglang. Away from the city's hustle and bustle, the unique ancient town has shuttle carts for 10 yuan per person. Along the streets, there are specialty Yunnan rice noodle shops on both sides, and dozens of sea-view guesthouses are nestled along Erhai Lake. You can lie in your room and gaze at the sea every day. The one I'd recommend is the internet-famous Tinghua Island Garden Homestay.
Every visit to Dali brings a different mood. The sea-view guesthouses by Erhai are a must-check-in. Enjoy the sunset and Erhai from the balcony, in a 270-degree fully transparent sea-view room — a romantic vacation day. For family trips or couples, these should top the charts. With overseas travel impossible, the wealthy are seeking domestic treasure spots for consumption. The homestay business has polarized: the internet-famous ones are still booming, attracting more people to check in.
Shuanglang is a small town, not large in area, but you can see the sunset every day. The cluster of seaside guesthouses is its feature, along with a street for eating, drinking, and entertainment. By day, lie in your room and gaze at Erhai; in the afternoon, find a music bar or a café for afternoon tea; in the evening, watch the sun slowly dip behind the hills, then at night enjoy a delicious Yunnan meal. This slow-paced life is the dream of one's later years.
Here, people work from sunrise, rest at sunset. The hard-working and kind ancestors fished and rowed here, living a pure and tranquil life — this is Shuanglang. It was a must-pass on the Southern Silk Road. The lanes, paved with cobblestones and bluestone, are aged yet bright; one can't tell if they were washed by the sea or by the years. Rows of old houses exude ancient charm, with low eaves and high stone foundations, humbly yet stubbornly keeping company with the sea day after day.
With good luck, you can see a golden sunrise over the distant mountains — the white ones are snowy peaks.
The Tinghua Island Homestay looks like a peninsula, connecting directly to Erhai Lake. The garden is full of flowers and greenery, blending completely with nature. There's a large terrace in front of the garden. In winter, when seagulls arrive, you can sit on the terrace and have afternoon tea with them. To attract more visitors, the design for photo ops has become a focus.
In the small courtyard surrounded by gardens, from the internet-famous swing to the bed by Erhai Lake, everything motivates girls to take photos and share them on social media.
This swing is absolutely amazing. Every day, countless people come to check in. Wearing a pure white dress and swaying on it, you'll feel as if you're in Bali. The swing is above a pool of water, and you can step into the water, making it look like you're taking photos right on Erhai Lake. The best shooting time is between 5 p.m. and 6:30 p.m., and if you catch the sunset, it's stunning!
Spend an afternoon zoning out watching the seagulls. The balcony in the suite is also a nice place to relax. At times like this, it's easy to forget all worries and just enjoy the moment.
Because I actively posted on social media, I met a fellow townsman who was staying nearby, and we went together to photograph Tinghua Island at sunset. The golden light was soft, casting a long gleam on the water, and it was easily healing.
There are also some photo spots perfect for girlfriends' group shots — I'll just show the pictures. The name Tinghua Island is worth remembering; it's a very classy homestay.
Late at night, after the sun has set, a different palette appears. I brought out sparklers I had prepared long ago and took a set of gorgeous light-painting photos. Fireworks, like life, are fleeting. Every day is a good start; truly live every minute and second, read every book.
For a second base in Dali, I'd suggest the area near the ancient town. Transportation is convenient with Didi, and many traditional resort hotels are hidden there. Just like in a big city, it's comfortable to stay, with a rich breakfast selection, and you can cross the road to see Erhai Lake.
The Pullman, opened at the end of 2021, is just steps from Erhai Lake and the internet-famous Xingsheng Bridge. Compared to other five-star hotels in Dali, the Pullman from the French Accor group pleasantly surprises with a strong artistic atmosphere, and every detail reveals a respect for local art and culture.
Most of the 230 rooms have views of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain. In addition to the sumptuous breakfast restaurant, the rooftop starry-sky bar is a highlight. The all-day dining restaurant 'March' and the Chinese restaurant 'Jun Ting Xuan', along with the rooftop terrace bar Luna, are unique in Dali and will surely become internet-famous check-in spots.
Compared to Yunnan rice noodles, the rich buffet offers more choices — dishes I love, plus unlimited strawberries.
Entering the lobby, the artistic spiral staircase will make you remember this hotel.
For business, leisure, or team offices, the business style is strong everywhere. You don't need to go out; you can eat, drink, and have fun right in the hotel. The observant will notice Yunnan-style crafts decorating the walls, showcasing the hotel's character.
The suite I stayed in didn't cost 2,000 yuan. Compared to the often 2,000-plus sea-view rooms in Shuanglang, the room isn't large; the price is due to the distinctive view. In my opinion, the value for money isn't high, and you should choose what suits you best.
The pool on the 23rd floor is my favorite among recent hotel visits. Swimming with a skyline view overlooking Cangshan and Erhai becomes a pleasure. At around 1,000 yuan, the Pullman is extremely cost-effective.
The afternoon tea pairing includes Yunnan-style floral tea, with folk-themed carvings on the cup, a plate of desserts with a black-and-white stone presentation, three compartments of fruit, and a serving for two — a perfectly balanced arrangement.
Every girl has a blue-and-white dream. When you come to Dali's 'Lixiang Bang' (Utopia), that dream isn't far away. It's been the most internet-famous check-in spot around Erhai in recent years. I've mentioned Shuanglang and the ancient town area; the last place I'd recommend is Lixiang Bang.
Today I'm recommending the Dali Songyun Cliff Mid-Mountain Resort Hotel, which feels like being in Santorini in an instant — healing from the shores of Erhai. The rooms, like the Santorini hotels I've visited before, are full of cave-hotel ambiance. The rooms are spacious, with private courtyards and outdoor pools.
The exterior looks like a painting. Most rooms have a constant-temperature soaking pool and a private outdoor infinity pool, from which you can swim directly outside — a vacation paradise.
Its excellent location and high-altitude complex of guesthouses make it a check-in spot for wedding photos. The shimmering lake surface, Instagram-style pure white walls — any snap turns into a masterpiece.
With limited rooms, they fill up easily; if you like it, be sure to book in advance. Such an exclusive place is something your partner will surely love. The stunning internet-famous resort style, easy-to-shoot Instagram aesthetics, easily win a girl's heart.
The hotel offers one-on-one butler service. Breakfast can be delivered to your room or enjoyed at the top-floor restaurant with a view of beautiful Cangshan and Erhai. For dinner, there's Japanese cuisine on the first floor or the sky bar on the top floor to choose from, and you can freely select Chinese or Western dishes, including small hotpots.
Room amenities are also very high-end: toiletries are by HERMÈS and Ferragamo, the hair dryer is Dyson. It's all about refined, premium service experience, with attention to detail everywhere.
This pure-white, art-infused hotel reminds me of the Nayun Starry Sky Homestay, another cave-style resort. If you like it, just come and hang out here — a very romantic place where every vacation day is happy.
I'm Xiaodou, a freelance travel photographer. My footprints cover the Americas, Southeast Asia, Japan, Korea, and Thailand. I'm also a food lover and freelance writer, always on the road, based in Hangzhou, and occasionally doing travel shoots at home and abroad. I hope to take you on journeys across beautiful landscapes with my camera, measure every corner of the world with my steps, record and share more travel stories with you. Every day is a new trip, and everyone who walks a stretch with us is worth appreciating. Life is neither too long nor too short — just enough to truly see the world. Come with Xiaodou, and let the lens tell stories.
