Ultimate Dali Travel Guide – Handpicked by a Local Veteran Guide
Cangshan is a timeless painting without ink, Erhai an eternal zither without strings.
This is the most exhaustive, all‑encompassing Dali travel guide you’ll come across. Next time a friend asks what to eat and do in Dali, just toss them this post!
Dali sits at the crossroads of the ancient Southwest Silk Road and the Tea Horse Road – an ancient capital on Asia’s cultural crossroad. Here you’ll find the mysterious, centuries‑old history of the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms, a rich tapestry of ethnic religions and the unique folk customs of the Bai people. From Dali you can also venture to the ancient village of Shaxi and to Nuodeng, made famous by the documentary “A Bite of China”. Do you want to look up at Cangshan and watch clouds roll by? Do you want to lose yourself by the shores of Erhai Lake among fishing hamlets? Then head west and soak up the romance of Dali, the city of wind, flowers, snow and moonlight.
How to plan your Dali itinerary
This itinerary is designed for four days but can be split into three routes. Routes 1 and 2 can be done in any order, though I recommend putting Route 3 at the end, because from there you can continue north to the stunning northwestern Yunnan around Lijiang.
Route 1: Dali Ancient Town – Three Pagodas – Tianlong Babu Film Studio – Xizhou – Dali
Route 2: Cycling around Erhai Lake – West Erhai scenery – Shuanglang – Nanzhao Fengqing Island – Dali
Route 3: Dali – Yunlong – Nuodeng Ancient Village – Jianchuan – Shaxi Ancient Town – Lijiang
Private tailor‑made tour / 5‑day in‑depth Yunnan custom tour (includes Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + Impression Lijiang show + Erhai Instagram hotspots + Dali jeep travel photography) with premium sea‑view rooms / private group only / local driver‑guide / upgradeable itinerary packages /
Here’s why this plan works:
1. It covers Dali’s most iconic sights.
2. You’ll dive deep into two breathtaking hidden gems – Shaxi and Nuodeng.
3. The travel style is off‑the‑beaten‑path and flexible: extend it to a multi‑day trip, or break it into standalone 2‑day segments. Mix and match to enjoy Dali your way.
4. Transport, accommodation, meals, the most worthwhile sights, the most sought‑after food, the most distinctive guesthouses – all shared by down‑to‑earth Dali locals who know the place inside out.
Detailed itinerary
Route 1: Dali Ancient Town – Three Pagodas – Tianlong Babu Film Studio – Xizhou
This route covers Dali’s classic highlights. Start your morning with a stroll through the ancient town before the crowds arrive, then visit the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. Allow about two hours for the pagodas. Next, head to Tianlong Babu Film Studio – a must for any Jin Yong fan. For lunch, pick a restaurant you like along National Highway 214 just below the film studio; most serve Bai specialities. If you’re worried about the food, wait until you reach Xizhou Old Town – it’s packed with snacks. Return to Dali Ancient Town around 5 pm, admire the evening lights, and your day is done.
Stop 1: Dali Ancient Town
To reach Dali Ancient Town from Xiaguan Railway Station, take bus No. 8 right outside the station and get off at the final stop, Yeyu Road. The old town overflows with poetic charm – Wuhua Tower, Honglongjing, Yangren Street and Renmin Road are all well worth visiting. The classic Dali experience: gaze out from Wuhua Tower, soak up the bar scene at Honglongjing, hunt for treasures on “Foreigner Street”, and eat your way along Renmin Road.
Stop 2: The otherworldly Buddhist kingdom – Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple
The Three Pagodas are Dali’s landmark. Standing here you’ll feel a sense of transcendence. The pagodas themselves are ancient, having survived countless calamities, while the temple was rebuilt in 2005 – it’s just over a decade old. The whole complex sits below Cangshan Mountain and beside Erhai Lake, rising step by step; it’s incredibly grand.
Transport: From the old town’s south gate you can share a car, usually 5 yuan/person. Or walk to the gate of Sanyue Street and hop on the special pagoda bus (2 yuan/person).
Ticket: 120 yuan (includes Three Pagodas Reflection Park).
Stop 3: Tianlong Babu Film Studio
From the pagodas you can hire a car directly to the film studio – it’s less than 5 km away and costs about 3 yuan per person. Tianlong Babu Film Studio is like a Hengdian‑style movie base where you can relive the Tang and Song dynasties, especially the architecture and historical culture from Jin Yong’s novel “Demi‑Gods and Semi‑Devils”. The park is split into three sections: the Kingdom of Dali (Dali Street, Dali Imperial Palace, Zhennan Prince’s Manor); the Liao Kingdom (Liao city gate and main streets); and the Western Xia Palace and Jurchen tribal area. Jin Yong fans will find it particularly rewarding. There’s also a grand gate‑opening ceremony with guards of honour at 9:00 am and 1:00 pm daily.
Ticket: 52 yuan/person. Opening hours: 9:00–17:00.
Stop 4: Xizhou Old Town
From the film studio, just flag down a minibus on National Highway 214 heading to Xizhou – fare 15 yuan/person. Xizhou is famous for its unique Bai residential compounds, a style that stands out even in world architectural history. The town is steeped in Bai flavour and history. Don’t miss the thirty‑plus traditional courtyards, including the Ming‑dynasty “Seven‑Foot Library” of Yang Shiyun, the Qing‑dynasty compounds of Yang Yuan and Zhao Tingjun, and the Republican‑era mansions of Yan Zizhen and Yang Pinxiang. The old town also sells wonderful local specialities – Xizhou baba pastry, Bai tie‑dye, Dengchuan rushan cheese, Xiaguan tuo tea, Dali snow pears, Yunnan tobacco and more. Xizhou baba is a must‑try for every traveller – it was even featured on “A Bite of China”.
Tips: Most courtyards close at 6:00 pm. Many Bai festivals and gatherings happen between March and April, so visiting then will immerse you in local culture. The Sanyue Street Fair (15–20 March) and the Butterfly Festival (15 April) are especially recommended. After exploring Xizhou, take a minibus back to Dali Ancient Town (15 yuan/person). In the evening, wander the old town, enjoy the night scenery, or pick a quirky little bar on Yangren Street or Renmin Road for a taste of Dali’s bar culture.
Route 2: Cycling Erhai – West Erhai scenery – Shuanglang – Nanzhao Fengqing Island – Dali
#High energy alert# This is a full‑day cycling route, strongly recommended for fit and active travellers. The loop circles Erhai Lake, follows the west shore, continues to Shuanglang and Nanzhao Fengqing Island, then returns to Dali Ancient Town.
Stop 1: Round‑the‑lake cycling
If you plan to circle the lake, set off around 8:00 am. While strolling the old town the evening before, look out for rental shops. Most people rent bicycles, e‑bikes or even cars for the Erhai loop; I’d recommend a bicycle for a more romantic vibe. There are plenty of rental shops in Dali Ancient Town – the greatest concentration is along the lower section of Renmin Road and near the East Gate on Bo’ai Road, but the best prices are near the North Gate. In peak season, e‑bikes cost around 80 yuan/day; off‑peak they drop to 30–50 yuan. Bicycles are about 20 yuan/day and you can always haggle.
If you don’t mind the hassle, take bus No. 2 to the gate of Dali University – rentals there are aimed at students and much cheaper; you can often get an e‑bike for 30 yuan. I wouldn’t suggest a tandem bike – it looks fun but is tiring and slow. If you’re not a regular exerciser, go for an e‑bike: convenient and effortless.
Dali Erhai Jeep Day Tour: Erhai photography trip (choose jeep colour + travel photography + fun activities + Instagram‑photo prop spots + Sky Mirror + Sky Ladder + Santorini‑style + glass ball + white tables & chairs – all covered) with free photography outfits / professional DSLR photographer / all negatives included /
Stop 2: Shuanglang & Nanzhao Fengqing Island
Ride all the way along the west shore and you’ll reach Shuanglang. Once a small fishing village, Shuanglang has quickly become a Dali hotspot. To get from Shuanglang to Nanzhao Fengqing Island you need a boat – ticket 30 yuan, island admission 50 yuan, and Yuji Island charges a 10‑yuan maintenance fee.
The most romantic thing to do in Shuanglang is watch the sunset by the lake. Find a well‑positioned lakeside bar or restaurant, solve your lunch problem, and watch clouds drift over the water. You can stay overnight in Shuanglang. If heading back to Dali the same day, start your return around 6:00 pm. Back in the old town, return your rental, grab a meal, enjoy the night scene, and your day is done.
Route 3: Dali – Yunlong – Nuodeng Ancient Village – Jianchuan – Shaxi Ancient Town – Lijiang
You can split this into two days, staying overnight in an ancient village.
【Day 1: Dali – Yunlong – Nuodeng – Ancient Village】
Stop 1: Xiaguan departure, bus to Yunlong County
From Dali Ancient Town, take bus No. 4 to Xiaguan, then switch to bus No. 2 at Wanhua Gas Station and ride to Fengche Square South‑West Bus Station. There are buses to Yunlong County all day, fare 35 yuan/person, about 3 hours. At Yunlong Bus Station hire a car straight to Nuodeng – usually 20 yuan/person, journey around 40 minutes.
Tips: ① Have lunch in Yunlong County first, because dining options in Nuodeng are very limited. ② If you’re hiring a car, arrange with the driver to stop at the viewing platform on the mountain north of Yunlong County – you’ll see a natural Taiji (yin‑yang) panorama that will make you marvel at Mother Nature’s artistry.
Stop 2: Nuodeng Village
From the viewing platform continue west for about 40 minutes to Nuodeng Village. Before entering, snap a photo of the village map for easier navigation, and note down some guesthouse phone numbers. In Nuodeng, the only thing you need to do is quieten down and truly experience the simplicity and timelessness of this thousand‑year‑old village. Thanks to “A Bite of China”, it’s gained popularity, but it hasn’t yet become overly commercialised; most guesthouses are converted traditional dwellings. Settle into your guesthouse first, rest a bit, then wander. There are very few restaurants, but virtually every guesthouse offers dinner to their guests – simple farmhouse dishes paired with Nuodeng ham, full of homely flavour. Just let the host know your preferred dining time beforehand. Nuodeng is small, but the sight of courtyards with red walls and black tiles along the Tea Horse Road, and wisps of chimney smoke at dusk, will warm you with an ancient intimacy.
【Day 2: Jianchuan – Shaxi Ancient Town – Lijiang】
Stop 1: Shaxi Ancient Town, Jianchuan
Set off from Yunlong to Jianchuan County in Dali to discover the town that seems to stop time – Shaxi, one of the “50 places you must visit in the world”, a visual stunner no matter spring, summer, autumn or winter. You can take a direct bus from Yunlong Bus Station to Jianchuan. From Dali city, head to the Dali North Bus Station and catch the “Xiaguan–Jianchuan” bus, about 1 hr 50 min (122 km), frequent departures every 20 minutes, fare 39 yuan. At Jianchuan Bus Station, hop onto a minibus to Shaxi, fare 10 yuan (29 km, about 50 minutes). If you’re travelling from Lijiang, you can catch a bus to Jianchuan from Lijiang Bus Station; they run every 30 minutes from 7:30 am to 6:30 pm (check the schedule on the signboard), journey about 2.5 hours.
Shaxi walking route: Ancient Stage – Xingjiao Temple – Sifang Street – Yujin Bridge
1. Ancient Stage
This is the cultural heart of the old town. During temple fair days (like the 8th of the 2nd lunar month or the 8th of the 4th lunar month), locals set up a stage and put on lively shows here.
2. Xingjiao Temple
This is the only surviving Ming‑dynasty Azhali (Esoteric Bai) Buddhist temple in China. The temple architecture follows Song‑Yuan styles, and its Bai structural techniques are exceptionally rare, drawing special attention from international and Chinese architectural scholars.
3. Sifang Street
Sidian Sifang Street is the soul and centre of Shaxi, once a bustling marketplace. The north gate alley faces the road from Jianchuan and was always the liveliest; the east and south alleys are shorter with fewer shop fronts. The stone slabs of Sifang Street have been worn by centuries, some losing their original shape, but the hoof prints left by packhorses are still clearly visible, telling tales of the town’s former bustle.
4. Yujin Bridge
It spans the Heihui River southeast of Sidian Street, about 100 metres from the East Village Gate. Yujin Bridge was historically the first bridge linking south to the Dali region and a compulsory crossing for all horse caravans travelling north‑south.
Special tip: The maltose candy, flat rice noodles, cold starch jelly and dried persimmon cakes in Shaxi are incredibly delicious!
How to get to Dali?
Dali is beautiful all year round, but the best time to visit is from March to June – the flower season, with mild weather and fewer crowds than peak holiday periods. Accommodation is affordable and travel is easy.
By air: Many major cities now have direct flights to Dali; alternatively, fly to Kunming and take a connecting flight.
By train: Six trains depart daily for Dali. Hard seat costs 64 yuan/person, sleeper 103 yuan/person. Journey takes around 6 hours. Dali Railway Station is in Xiaguan, about 30 km from Dali Ancient Town.
By bus: Kunming West Bus Station has buses to Dali all day, fare around 120 yuan, about 5 hours. Lijiang Bus Station operates all‑day buses to Dali, fare 66 yuan/person, about 3 hours.
Where to stay in Dali?
Both inside and outside Dali Ancient Town there are many character‑filled guesthouses. During peak seasons, book online in advance; in the off‑season, you can choose after you arrive. Most guesthouses are clustered along National Highway 213, which is served by bus No. 4, and there are also plenty on Fuxing Road inside the old town. Prices are reasonable – in low season you can often get a nice room for 100 yuan. But beware of persuasive guesthouse owners: some will criticise tour groups and lure you into joining their private self‑drive tours. Although the prices may look tempting, these tours often end up taking you to shopping stops, and the owner won’t sign a contract or buy insurance for you. If anything goes wrong, you’ll have little recourse. This is a hidden pitfall in the travel industry, so keep your eyes wide open!
What to eat in Dali?
In Dali Ancient Town, Renmin Road is the go‑to for food. The cold chicken rice noodles at “Zai Huishou” and Yang’s grilled rushan cheese are well worth trying. If you’re after authentic Bai dishes, take bus No. 4 toward Xiaguan and get off at the Guanyintang stop; several excellent Bai restaurants line both sides of the road. The fire‑roasted pig skin and Yongping braised chicken are the real deal – many locals from Xiaguan drive here just to eat them.
What makes Dali’s culture special?
Before you come to Dali, you probably can’t imagine that street stalls can be a culture in themselves. Renmin Road is the trailblazer of Dali’s street‑stall culture, drawing creative souls from all over. All sorts of handmade crafts, street artists and wandering musicians enchant every passer‑by.
Starting from the lower section of Renmin Road and strolling upwards, you have Erhai Lake behind you and Cangshan Mountain right before your eyes, no need to tilt your head. Lining both sides of the street are tiny shops of every kind: rice noodle joints, steamed bun stands, coffee houses, bookshops, herbal medicine shops, craft boutiques, bookstores, juice stalls, stationery stores, steamed bread shops, vegetarian cafés, tea houses, bars, steak houses, Western restaurants… Walking here, it feels like you’ve glimpsed the whole world.
