The Thousand-Year Legend of Dali's Famous Mountain: Climbing Jizu Mountain to Unveil the Storms Weathered by Its 'Guardian Ancient Temples'
If you were to list what Yunnan is most famous for, the top three would definitely be flowers, scenic beauty, and delicious food.
Among Yunnan’s beautiful landscapes, both ‘mountains’ and ‘waters’ take pride of place. Most of Yunnan’s mountains are renowned for their scenery—such as Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Meili Snow Mountain, Cangshan, and Jiaozi Snow Mountain—but one mountain is unique: it is famous for its ancient temples.
This mountain is located in Binchuan, Dali, and known for its ancient temples. It is the celebrated Jizu Mountain in Binchuan, famed across the whole southwestern region.
Jizu Mountain in Binchuan is a famous mountain. Its thousand-year legend began to be written in the Tang Dynasty, reached its zenith in the Ming Dynasty, and all of this began with its ‘monasteries’.
From the Tang period, people settled on the mountain and built small nunneries there. At its peak, there were 72 nunneries and 36 temples, a total of 108 monasteries.
But alas, the ravages of wind and rain have taken their toll; today you can no longer see the splendor of its heyday. Yet there is no need for melancholy—destruction has been followed by reconstruction. Through decades and centuries, with sustained efforts by one generation after another, Jizu Mountain now has over a dozen ancient and new temples, among which ten can be counted as true ‘mountain-guardian ancient temples’.
These ten are: Fota Temple (Pagoda Temple), Zhusheng Temple, Shizhong Temple (Stone Bell Temple), Muni Nunnery, Xuyun Chan Temple, Biyun Temple, Fangsguang Temple, Jiaye Hall (Kasyapa Hall), Tongfo Hall (Bronze Buddha Hall), and Jinding Temple (Golden Summit Temple).
In terms of scale, status, and influence, these ten temples are all forces to be reckoned with.
Follow the pace of travel, step into Binchuan’s Jizu Mountain, wander all over the mountain, and discover the stories behind these ancient and new temples, understand their past and present, and unveil the storms they have weathered.
Entering Jizu Mountain Town means you have already entered the precincts of Jizu Mountain. Pass by the Xixin Pavilion (Heart-Cleansing Pavilion), follow the road signs, and soon you will arrive at the mountain’s main gate—the plaque inscribed ‘Lingshan Yihui’ (Spiritual Mountain Gathering).
Passing through the mountain gate, you officially enter Jizu Mountain. Inside, simply follow the signposts and you can find these ten temples one by one.
Fota Temple was originally called Zunsheng Pagoda Courtyard, also known as Tapan Temple. According to records, it was first built in the 11th year of the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty (1638), jointly founded by the native prefect of Lijiang and the monks Daoyuan and Daozhen of Xitan Temple.
Later, during the Shunzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty, the Mu family of Lijiang donated funds to cast a large bronze bell and placed it in the temple; its toll could be heard for a hundred li around.
During the Republic of China period, because of close ties with Tibetan areas, the rulers there often sent people to repair Fota Temple. When descendants donated to build Dajue Temple, Fota Temple was also given an overhaul.
It was destroyed in 1966. The present Fota Temple was rebuilt on the original site in 1991 through donations.
Within Fota Temple there is a wondrous sight related to the Zunsheng White Pagoda. This is one of the eight famous sights of Jizu Mountain: ‘Autumn Moon over the Pagoda’.
The Zunsheng White Pagoda is in the ‘Arabic treasure-vase’ style. The pagoda stands 22 meters tall, its exterior coated with lime, looking pure and elegant at any time of day.
‘Autumn Moon over the Pagoda’ refers to the middle of the lunar month in autumn, when the moon moves to the west of the Lengyan Pagoda on Tianzhu Peak. At that moment, the full moon, the Lengyan Pagoda, and the Zunsheng White Pagoda form a straight line. The surroundings are dark, yet these two pagodas shine dazzlingly white, emitting a faint, glowing light. This is one of the most celebrated of the eight sights.
As mentioned earlier, Fota Temple had close ties with Tibetan areas, which is why the Tibetan authorities sent people many times to maintain it—and this also stemmed from the Zunsheng White Pagoda.
The white pagoda is also called the Shadowless Pagoda. On the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, the Mid-Autumn full-moon night, not only do the moon, Lengyan Pagoda, and Zunsheng White Pagoda align in a straight line, but the Zunsheng White Pagoda also casts no shadow and appears even whiter and brighter than during full moons in other months.
Legend has it that the story of the pagoda’s shadowlessness is connected to Princess Wencheng. When Princess Wencheng and Songtsen Gampo were married, Jizu Mountain sent envoys to offer congratulations. Later, the royal couple once enjoyed the scenery in the pagoda courtyard on a Mid-Autumn night. Noticing that the pagoda’s shadow was dark and spoiled the beauty, the princess gently waved her swan-feather fan, and from then on, the shadow of the Zunsheng White Pagoda vanished without a trace on Mid-Autumn nights.
Zhusheng Temple is currently the largest and best-preserved temple on Jizu Mountain. It was originally called Yingxiang Temple, also known as Boyu Nunnery. First built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty (1522–1566), its founder was Chen Liu.
After its completion, many literary figures and monks visited and left behind poems. During the reigns of Emperor Chongzhen in the Ming and Emperor Kangxi in the Qing, the temple was repaired and rebuilt.
Later, because it was long unoccupied and fell into disrepair, the temple became dilapidated. In the 32nd year of Guangxu’s reign (1906), Master Xuyun traveled to the capital (present-day Beijing) and, with funding obtained from the Empress Dowager Cixi, renovated and rebuilt Zhusheng Temple.
On this trip to Beijing, Master Xuyun brought back not only money but also the ‘Dragon Canon’ bestowed by Emperor Guangxu, a golden imperial carriage, a jade seal, a purple robe and alms bowl, a tin staff, and other items. Emperor Guangxu also renamed the temple, granting it the title ‘Huguo Zhusheng Chan Temple’ (Protect-the-Nation Zhusheng Chan Temple).
These gifts from Emperor Guangxu have now become cultural relics and are preserved, together with calligraphy, paintings, and scriptures collected over the centuries, in the scripture-storage building of Zhusheng Temple.
Stepping into the temple, you will be awed by its ‘aura.’ It has a magnificent Mahavira Hall and various other Buddha halls, filled with countless Buddha statues.
On either side of the Mahavira Hall stand elegant, ancient bell and drum towers. Covered corridors connect every hall in the temple. In the courtyard there is an exquisite, richly colored ancient pavilion, and ancient steles from the Ming and Qing dynasties that are steeped in history.
Muni Nunnery is located to the right of Zhusheng Temple, beside the Nine-Dragon Waterfall. Its founding was an act of kindness. During the Jiajing reign of the Ming, someone built a thatched hut here for cultivation and offered tea to passers-by, earning it the nickname ‘Tea House.’ Later, after it was destroyed by fire, Yang Zhou built Muni Nunnery on the same site.
In the 21st year of Jiajing (1542), the scholar Yang Sheng’an and the Baoshan notable Zhang Han traveled together to Jizu Mountain, arriving at Muni Nunnery. Here they wrote the ‘Gazetteer of Jizu Mountain,’ but due to a later fire at the temple, the manuscript was destroyed.
During the Wanli reign, Muni Nunnery was again struck by fire and rebuilt once more. It survived until 1966, when it was destroyed again, and in 1999 it was rebuilt by Hongbo.
Today, entering Muni Nunnery, you will find neat rows of buildings and a profusion of Buddha statues set within a compact, exquisite courtyard. The atmosphere is tranquil and secluded, with ancient cypress trees that are robust and full of vigor, making it easy for the mind to relax.
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Shizhong Temple was first built in the Tang Dynasty and was repeatedly renovated and expanded during the Hongwu, Yongle, Zhengtong, Hongzhi, and Wanli reigns of the Ming Dynasty, as well as the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty.
As the oldest large monastery on Jizu Mountain, Shizhong Temple not only has a long history but also profound cultural significance.
From its establishment right through the Ming and Qing dynasties, literati and officials who visited Jizu Mountain out of admiration would go to Shizhong Temple and leave inscriptions on plaques, horizontal scrolls, and couplets.
Renowned figures such as Ming calligrapher Dong Qichang, Governor Wang Jiwen, Li Yuanyang, Qing Governors-General Cai Yurong and Fan Chengxun, and Republic-era Sun Yat-sen and Yu Youren all left their calligraphic works at Shizhong Temple.
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Now Shizhong Temple is under reconstruction. Although it is not yet complete, numerous statues have already been installed, and the stream of admiring visitors has never diminished.
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Xuyun Chan Temple was initially called Jueyun Temple, later renamed Dajue Temple. It lies halfway up Jizu Mountain, surrounded by mountains, with ancient trees reaching to the sky and an excellent ecological environment.
During the Jiajing reign of the Ming, a small nunnery was built here, which was the predecessor of Xuyun Temple. In the third year of Wanli (1575), funds were raised to expand it and it was named Jueyun Temple. In the 30th year of Wanli (1602), the abbot of Jueyun Temple collected alms for another expansion and renamed it Dajue Temple. In the Kangxi reign of the Qing, monks raised donations and again built a main hall, covered corridors, etc.
In 1934, it was destroyed by fire. In 1998, it was rebuilt by the successors of Master Xuyun and renamed Xuyun Chan Temple.
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Entering the newly built Xuyun Chan Temple, the hall style is very distinctive and imposing. The largest hall—the Mahavira Hall—is a five-bay structure with double-eaved hip-and-gable roof; its archaistic layout gives the entire hall a solemn and dignified air.
With red walls and golden tiles, the temple buildings are majestic and weighty, carrying the charm of the Han and Tang dynasties. Combined with the various flowers and trees in the courtyard, creating a refined and cozy atmosphere, this becomes a quiet haven on earth.
Photographer: Li Wenhai
Biyun Temple is not far from Xuyun Temple. It was first built by Master Huankong, a native of Beijing, during the Tianqi reign of the Ming Dynasty, and rebuilt many times thereafter. Unfortunately, the original temple has been destroyed.
Today’s Biyun Temple was rebuilt in 2006. The rebuilt temple is grand in scale, complete with a main hall, side halls, bell tower, drum tower, and meditation rooms. Its architectural style retains the legacy of the Han and Tang dynasties, standing out among the temples on Jizu Mountain.
Fangsguang Temple is located in the heart of Jizu Mountain, right below Huashou Gate. It was first built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming, founded by the monk Yuanxing and Li Yuanyang.
In the third year of Wanli (1575), it burned down and was later rebuilt. During the Chongzhen reign, the whole temple underwent a large-scale reconstruction and renovation. Not long after, in the tenth year of Kangxi (1671), it again fell to fire. Reconstruction started in 1999 and continued until 2016, taking 17 years for all the main halls of Fangsguang Temple to be completed, which is what we see today.
Walking into the rebuilt Fangsguang Temple, you’ll find the temple has no perimeter wall, just a quaint old gate. Directly in front of the gate is a huge pond for releasing captive animals.
On the mountaintop directly behind the temple gate, the body of Lengyan Pagoda is clearly visible. In front of the gate, there is a huge stone, partly hidden by trees and covered with moss—this is the legendary stone that emits light.
Inside Fangsguang Temple, all kinds of structures are shaded by giant trees, adding a hint of mystery. Even the three-story Yujing Pavilion (Imperial Scripture Pavilion) is partly hidden.
The layout of Fangsguang Temple is not as strict as other temples. The seemingly disorderly placement of buildings gives it a mysterious yet casual feel.
Jiaye Hall is situated on Tianzhu Peak, directly below Jinding Temple. It was not originally called Jiaye Hall—its former name is no longer verifiable. It was renamed Jiaye Hall after enshrining a sandalwood statue of Mahakasyapa, said to be hand-carved by Ananda, during the Tianbao reign of the Tang Dynasty.
According to records, monks had practiced here as early as the early Ming Dynasty. In the Jiajing reign, the monastery was expanded but later collapsed. During the Wanli reign, a ten-thousand-Buddha bronze statue was cast and placed in front of the main hall, shining with dazzling golden light, and it was popularly called the ‘Golden Light Pagoda.’
In the Shunzhi reign of the Qing, an expansion was organized. In the Kangxi reign, all the halls, pavilions, towers, and pagodas were destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt and renovated many times after that, but the scale never returned to its former glory.
The present Jiaye Hall was rebuilt in 1992. This time, it was completely transformed and greatly enlarged, with a total floor area of as much as 6,000 square meters.
Building a temple with such a large floor area on the steep Tianzhu Peak is truly a remarkable feat!
Jiaye Hall is a three-tiered complex. The third tier is the Jiaye Hall proper, housing a newly carved camphor wood statue of Mahakasyapa in meditation, holding his robe. It is also the largest camphor wood statue on Jizu Mountain.
The interior of Jiaye Hall is filled with countless murals, sculptures, and couplets that recount various tales about Kasyapa, such as the story of the ‘flower sermon’ smile and others.
Tongwa Hall (Bronze Tile Hall) was originally called Jiaye Temple, Tongfo Hall, or Chuandeng Temple. First built during the Zhengde reign of the Ming Dynasty, it sits at the summit where fierce winds blow all year round and snow accumulates heavily in winter. To withstand wind and snow and protect the hall, the roof was covered with cast bronze tiles, hence the name ‘Bronze Tile Hall’.
It was renovated during the Wanli reign, and every subsequent dynasty carried out protective repairs. However, during the special period of 1966, it was deliberately destroyed.
Today’s Tongwa Hall was rebuilt in 1979. Perched on the edge of a cliff, though small, it still has a main hall and side hall, and the panoramic view from here is matchless among other ancient temples.
Jinding Temple is the highest temple on Jizu Mountain and also the most famous.
According to records, Jinding Temple began with a pagoda; temples were built around it later. Even before the Ming Dynasty, a square pagoda had been built on Jizu Mountain.
During the Hongzhi reign, monks built a nunnery here for cultivation. In the Jiajing reign, Puguang Temple was built; in the Wanli reign, Guanfeng Pavilion (Wind-Viewing Pavilion); in the Tianqi reign, Tianchang Pavilion (Eternal Pavilion); in the Chongzhen reign, Shanyu Pavilion (Good Rain Pavilion). They also constructed long corridors around and built the ‘Four-View Tower’ on the walled enclosure for watching clouds, sunrise, sea of clouds, and snow.
In the Chongzhen reign, Mu Tianbo, the Duke of Qian, moved the bronze structure from the Taihe Palace on Yingwu Mountain in Kunming (today’s Golden Temple in Kunming) here. After many subsequent expansions, unfortunately, the first trial the original Jinding Temple endured was a fire during the Kangxi reign of the Qing. Apart from the Golden Hall, all other halls were lost to ashes.
After the destruction in the Kangxi reign, it was rebuilt once and restored to its original scale. Unfortunately, the second rebuilt Jinding Temple was again destroyed during the special historical period in 1966.
The present Jinding Temple was rebuilt and restored with government funding in 1980. The Lengyan Pagoda within the temple was constructed in 1932 and has since served as a natural beacon for the Hump air route.
Stepping into Jinding Temple, it is slightly larger than Tongwa Hall yet still arranged as a three-courtyard compound. The most eye-catching sights are the glittering ‘Golden Hall,’ the towering Lengyan Pagoda, and the aura-filled Mahavira Hall.
What makes Jinding Temple unique is not only its architecture but also its scenery. From here, the view is wide in all directions, and you can witness the famous ‘Four Views’: sunrise in the east, auspicious clouds in the south, Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake in the west, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the north.
Binchuan’s Jizu Mountain: temples were first built in the Tang Dynasty, extensively expanded in the Ming, flourished during the Ming and Qing, and later suffered destruction from fires, neglect, and special historical periods.
These ancient temples have endured pain, weathered storms, and lived through the laws of historical development. Now they have reappeared before us, following Jizu Mountain on its path to revival. One temple after another emerges again, telling of the glory and hardships they have experienced.
Editor: Yiyun Yunnan, Yijing
Images: photographed by Yiyun Yunnan; some provided by Li Wenhai of Jizu Mountain.
Note: When reprinting, please credit the source. Unauthorized commercial use of images is prohibited.
