A Record of Time in Words (Part 8) #An Offbeat New Year Self-Drive Through Sichuan, Guizhou, Guangxi, and Yunnan

Unexpectedly, the novel coronavirus that had been hanging in the air seemed to come to an abrupt end in December 2022, frozen in the sky of history; and then, a delightful surprise—freedom to travel on a whim arrived just like that, as if to add a brilliant finishing touch to this Chinese New Year, yes, a stroke that brings the dragon to life.

On the 29th day of the twelfth lunar month, my heart, which had no intention of traveling, suddenly fluttered. In that moment, all the pre-holiday exhaustion vanished. Go ahead, tear open another new ticket stub, embark on a new journey—no set destination, only a direction: south. For in winter, from Chengdu, that’s where the sunshine lies. We set off on the first day of the new year, covering over 4,000 kilometers there and back, clouds and moons along eight thousand miles of road, but without the roar of traffic, only a gentle breeze and warm sun as companions.

Day 1 of 13: Chengdu to Renhuai, 480 km, 7 hours. Rarely does Chengdu see such brilliant sunshine on a New Year’s day. As I set off, imagining the scenery a thousand miles ahead, my heart was full of joy.

Recharged at Luzhou’s Bubugao Plaza—plug in and charge immediately, using the 66-kWh Spring Festival gift pack, a thoughtful gesture. At the fifth-floor food court, I had a fresh pepper rabbit dish. Who knows, maybe I’ll suddenly get rich this Year of the Rabbit. Yes, one must always have dreams, for they just might come true.

Renhuai, home to Maotai Town. My memory of Maotai Town from 18 years ago is already faint, except for the lingering aroma of aged liquor, so distinct.

That year, a few young people, full of dreams, traveled from Chengdu to Zunyi, then rushed to Maotai Town; also that year, for the first and only time so far within China, the entire cabin applauded as the plane touched down—applauded the flight crew. Heaven knows why the air currents over Longdongbao that day were so dramatic. I remember it was a Sichuan Airlines flight, and Sichuan Airlines seems to have always been impressive.

A single cable now links north and south; ferries no longer cross here.

Day 2 of 13: Renhuai to Baise, 540 km, 7 hours. A “new year’s full” breakfast. Every New Year, the moment I put down my chopsticks and say I’m full, my mom immediately says, “Nian bao, nian bao.” Indeed, in our generation, only during the New Year could we eat so many delicious things, just once a year.

Recharged in Guiyang, at a supercharging station near the Financial City, just off the expressway exit—drive in and charge. A couple of cars occasionally accompanied us, but the afternoon sun stayed with us all the way, straight to Baise. The sky’s light and clouds’ shadows shimmered on bright waters.

The arcade buildings on Jiefang Street reminded me of walking along Shangxiajiu in Guangzhou, but with a rare sense of tranquility.

Recharged in the hotel’s underground garage.

Day 3 of 13: Baise to Fangchenggang, 360 km, 4.5 hours. A half-day at the Baise Uprising Memorial Park. When construction began on the Tianshengqiao Power Station, I was still in high school. In my first year of high school, we were rationed only 30 jin of grain per month with food coupons, never enough, so I had to ask female classmates for their surplus coupons. My memory of the school cafeteria food is mostly grim; the only thing tasty was the steamed pork ribs with rice flour, strictly one portion per person, and the chance to buy it vanished in a flash.

This beautiful life has been hard-won! We should cherish it with all our hearts, strive with all our might, and stay positive. May the motherland continue to improve, and may every family’s life grow ever more beautiful.

An uncle in Fangchenggang said these oysters would be wonderfully fragrant when stir-fried tonight. Thanks to him for his cameo appearance.

I hurried here from afar, and just in time, the sunset over the long sea was waiting. This rendezvous was made possible by the southern sunshine.

At this moment, it’s an inland dweller’s longing for the sea! I remember in ’94, my classmates and I went to Shanghai to watch a match between Quanxing and Shenhua, even specially hiring two wild motorbikes to see the Yangtze River estuary. I even naively tasted the water, hoping for the saltiness of the sea, but alas, that wasn’t the place. By the way, if I had graduated and could have gone to Pudong to work in agriculture and settle down, buying a few plots of land and enjoying a few years of pastoral life, that would have been wonderful in hindsight.

Day 4 of 13: Fangchenggang & Dongxing, a small border town. Under the historical sky, people still come and go; this is Dongxing, weathered by time.

In the Great Qing Empire, our Celestial Dynasty abounded with all things and had no need to trade with foreign barbarians. From that point, the fate of this nation took a turn.

Looking across the boundary river at Vietnam, I somewhat miss those days in Hoi An.

Leaving Dongxing, we went in search of the sea. With few people around, we could drive right onto the beach.

A pot of tea, a book, a ray of sunshine.

Capture this moment’s sea with brushstrokes; just listen to the sound of waves, surging and sighing.

Day 5 of 13: Fangchenggang, a small fishing village where kites dance and gulls soar—quiet and sweetly beautiful. The sea breeze gently brushes the emerald-like water surface, not taking a single wisp of cloud away.

An unexpected delight today: making friends through painting. Who knew such a thoughtfully designed guesthouse village lay hidden in this tranquil fishing village! Fangchenggang’s Tuhai Art Village.

Day 6 of 13: Fangchenggang to Puzhehei, 670 km, 10 hours. A long drive today; need to recharge twice. Recharged in Chongzuo; most food shops nearby were already open.

Recharged once more at Yunkuaichong in Funing County, and just like that, from fishing villages to mountain villages, today we returned to Puzhehei Village. Fish, shrimp, simple dishes, a tavern banner fluttering in the wind; whose farmhouse is this on the fields?

Day 7 of 13: Puzhehei. Looking back at our previous visit to Puzhehei Village, I realize eight years have slipped by unawares. Traveling, exploring the world together with my child, is, in my view, a way to nurture a child’s curiosity and desire to learn. Grow up joyfully, every child.

The clear waters and green hills never age; just sit and watch the years flow by.

Right now, in Puzhehei Village, modernity and traditional New Year customs collide and blend; yesterday, today, and tomorrow alternate, yet look ahead. Keep your passion for life, and let’s explore this world together.

Strolling and pausing, time passes in the lanes of Puzhehei Village.

Unintentionally, a tiny watercolor painting slowly takes shape under the brush tip.

Day 8 of 13: Puzhehei to Mile, 140 km, 3 hours. Waking in the morning, I lift the curtain and gaze out—only green waters and blue hills fill my eyes.

Beside Lake Huquan in Mile, I flipped through the diary entries I wrote back then. I never expected that a simple travel note would help 10,000 travelers and even make it onto Baidu’s homepage.

Chasing the light with the wind, sitting and watching the clouds gather. I go for a run.

At sunset, I record this moment’s Lake Huquan.

I recommend a barbecue stall—the yellow beef and small yellow croakers are superb, honest and fair.

Day 9 of 13: Mile to Chuxiong, 290 km, 4.5 hours. A morning of birdsong and fragrant flowers, so peaceful. At this moment, I truly feel that all people are my compatriots, and the world is my home.

Originally, I planned to go to Fuxian Lake or Gudian to soak up the sun for a couple more days and then head home, but because my kid was binge-watching the drama “Meet Yourself,” we made a last-minute detour to Shaxi. Recharged at Anning’s Wuyue Plaza.

Recharged at Xili Hotel near the Chuxiong expressway exit.

My childhood elementary school was on a hillside, not far from the Chengdu-Kunming Railway. I often saw green trains heading into the distance and so I remembered a distant place: Chuxiong. Year-round, I was stuck in that mountain gully, dreaming of one day boarding a train to faraway lands—how pleasant that would be! Last year, a good friend had some business in Chuxiong and invited me several times, but I couldn’t make it. Unexpectedly, today, on a whim, I arrived. It feels great.

My friend, a true man of sentiment, insisted on hosting a “cloud reception,” so we had a drink over video call.

That night, in the Yi people’s small town, the canopy was crystal-clear, the icy moon like polished jade.

Day 10 of 13: Chuxiong to Shaxi Ancient Town, 320 km, 6 hours. Recharged at Erhai Gate Hotel.

Walking slowly along the lakeshore, the wind from the Cangshan Mountains softly caresses the surface of Erhai Lake, raising faint ripples on the lake’s skin.

My kid likes what he likes, so let’s go see the place where the wind blows. Here there is wind; write our story, love what we love.

Leisurely, on the cobblestone path, the slanting sun accompanied by a light breeze. Truly, it feels like wandering through a flowing oil painting.

I recommend Huijiang Restaurant—honest and fair, and the key is, the food tastes great.

That night, the starry sky was dazzling.

Day 11 of 13: Shaxi Ancient Town to Panzhihua, 310 km, 5.5 hours. The morning sunlight always brings full energy.

In a courtyard home, around a corner, I ran into two local kids. As soon as they saw me, they greeted me with childish yet warm “Hello!” Wow, just two simple words, but they instantly warmed my heart! Indeed, during our travels, there are always people and moments that give us energy and inspire us to love this world and forge ahead courageously.

A corner eatery. The town’s vitality begins again with sunshine, with “hello,” with delicious food.

Little Ji’s sister’s ice jelly.

Back in school, I never liked reading, but in recent years, all because of my kid, I’ve grown to love it. This is a place where I could spend an entire day.

At 4 p.m., we hit the road again. Recharged at Jianhu Service Area and drove straight to Panzhihua. The service area is huge, with a viewing deck for Jianhu Lake.

Day 12 of 13: Panzhihua to Xichang, 220 km, 3 hours. Boiling tea with an old classmate, watching time pass.

Day 13 of 13: Xichang to Chengdu, heading home. Recharged at Mingshan Service Area—plenty of chargers, never crowded. Spring lingers, plants grow lush, paths are carpeted with flowers like rain. Looking back on the road we’ve traveled, there was neither wind nor rain, nor glaring sun.