Third Guangzhou–Yunnan Self-Drive: The Spontaneous Tibet Entry & Sichuan Exit Edition

The three-week Yunnan self-drive trips during the 2018 and 2019 Spring Festival holidays were wonderful memories. But then the pandemic and work took over, and for three years I hadn't hit the road for 'wine and the open road.' I buried myself in planning, endlessly tweaking the itinerary, longing to set off.

Our son is 17 now and not too keen on traveling with just us two, but luckily his best elementary school buddy Cai Cai's family (four people) also planned a Yunnan road trip. After chatting, we discovered our planned departure dates were initially the same—and they loved our itinerary. The two kids were over the moon. To keep up with our schedule (we'd reach Dali the next day), they even left a day early.

Preparation: Since I'm an old hand and it was summer, packing was simpler. Still, I brought one extra case of clothes (mostly for vanity—outfits for every scene. Honestly, once there, I was too lazy to change. I strongly advise bringing even less). The day before departure, I changed the engine oil, and packed a gas stove, instant noodles, and two jin each of baijiu and Western liquor.

You can see the luggage getting lighter from 2018, 2019 spring to 2023 summer.

August 4 (Friday): Work allowed, we left at 1 p.m., checked into the Wyndham Baise Resort Hotel (recommended) around 9 p.m., grabbed a late-night snack, and went to bed.

August 5: Left at 5:30 a.m. (Baise has strict speed checks; lucky my record's clean, even 10% over didn't get penalized). The two families met at a Kunming service area at noon—so happy, we quickly snapped a group photo. We reached the South Gate of Dali Ancient Town around 4 p.m., where it's quieter and parking's easy. Immediately went for a mixed mushroom chicken hotpot to fill our bellies and cracked open the wine (thank goodness for a designated driver so we could drink at every meal!). We strolled briefly through the ancient town, then checked into Dali Lanshe Sea View Inn by Erhai Lake before dark (poor service, not recommended).

My wife and I had a romantic moment by Erhai Lake.

August 6: Rain. We two had rice noodles at the inn, then shared an umbrella walking along Erhai. The newly built promenade really enhances the lake. In Yunnan it gets dark late, and with a relaxed schedule, the kids could sleep in every day. So we didn't leave for Shangri-La Shanmei Inn at Tiger Leaping Gorge until 11 a.m.—the real journey began.

We got off the highway, crossed Songyuan Bridge, and had lunch at Yaomei Fresh Fish Restaurant along the Xijing Highway (the fish was a bit pricey). When we reached Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge (Tencent Maps; Gaode didn't show the bridge name), we were told the scenic area was closed due to heavy rain and high water levels, and we couldn't cross (later I looked it up—it had been closed since 10:30 a.m., no wonder there was no traffic jam). We kept driving, crossed Qiaotou Middle Bridge (Tencent Maps), and called the inn's landlady. She said we could enter. We passed three security checkpoints—saying we were going to Shanmei or letting them talk directly to the inn got us through without even paying the scenic area entry fee (both visits we didn't enter the scenic area, but in 2019, normally you had to pay even to pass through).

Ahead of the inn is a 2.4-kilometer stretch with a 350-meter elevation drop (varies by app) and over a dozen steep S-bends on paved cement. The car performed brilliantly, handling the curves with ease, no lurching, one-shot turns—it felt like an amusement park ride (my co-pilot kept an eye out for uphill traffic). Super exciting. The inn has its own parking lot for six or seven cars.

The 'amusement park ride' before Shanmei Inn.

We settled in, took advantage of a drizzle, and retraced about 1 km of the high route to 'Ice Jelly' point as a warm-up. After the rain, Jade Dragon and Haba peaks were shrouded in mist—so beautiful. Whole team's spirits soared and stayed high for the entire dozen-plus days of the trip.

Across facing us: Yachajiao Manor, Tea Horse Inn, and Shanmei Inn.

Rain, mud, high water—be careful.

Dog food: buy one get one free.

A whiff of durian fragrance.

We chose Shanmei specifically for hiking, with basic conditions, so we didn't expect luxury. Both dinner and breakfast at the inn, plenty of hot water. First night, the village lost power due to line problems; it was fixed by next evening—minimal impact. Good thing we had a gas stove and enough power banks.

August 7: Started high-route hiking at 11 a.m., perfect weather, cloudy, around 20°C. Halfway, a herd of cows blocked the path, two bulls even fighting for dominance. No guidebook ever mentioned this, we were stuck waiting. Luckily, the cowherd was experienced; seeing we hadn't crested the ridge ahead despite the long wait, he came over and rescued us.

Now this tea—how do you resist?

Guanyin Waterfall (not 100% sure on the name; any hikers have the confirmed answer?).

Around 1 p.m. we reached Half Way for lunch (not expensive, taste so-so), posed on the 'balcony to die for,' and visited the 'Number One Toilet Under Heaven.' Continued hiking in sunshine, the scenery was gorgeous and colorful. At Guanyin Waterfall (showed a photo to the landlady; she called it Guanyin Waterfall—the trail just before it is the narrowest and most dangerous), the path was flooded, and the scree slope in front of the waterfall looked hazardous (probably minor landslides), so we turned back. Back at Half Way, we had beers and coffee at the balcony bar. The shop there provided a driver-for-hire number; we called two cars (150 yuan each) to take us back to Shanmei. The actual hike was under 10 km, mostly flat, not too tough—just bring a water bottle.

Dinner at the inn was excellent and affordable; everyone got along warmly and sincerely. Huge thanks to the inn. It actually has a great-view balcony too, just not Instagram-famous.

Shanmei's signature yellow braised chicken—awesome!

August 8: After breakfast, we drove to Teacher Zhang's Inn to hike its gorge trail (15 yuan per person; there are three routes down to the gorge floor—the other two are 'Sky Ladder Trail' and 'A Thread of Sky Trail'). Took photos on the giant boulder in the river; the gorge's flow was raging because the scenic area was closed—perfect timing, the drone came in so handy.

The giant boulder on Teacher Zhang's trail—just over ten days later, this gravel path was washed away.

There's a small suspension bridge at the gorge bottom connecting to the 'Sky Ladder Trail,' but you pay extra to cross. We told them we'd just go to their bridge and back, so they charged only 5 yuan per person; crossing to the river boulder cost another 10 yuan. (We'd crossed once during 2019 Spring Festival, when the water wasn't this high—highly recommend it. Back then our son was too scared to walk it; this time was different.) On the return, we climbed the 168-step Brave Sky Ladder (10 yuan per person; the landlady of that trail turned out to be the driver who took us back to Shanmei the day before!). The ladder was incredibly steep, and with waning energy, the young ones charged ahead and disappeared; luckily my wife and I encouraged each other, climbing slowly, and made it up. The whole gorge hike took about 5 hours (including tons of photo time), with little horizontal distance but massive elevation change—it pushed our endurance to the limit.

The suspension bridge marking the boundary between the two trails.

The 'Sky Ladder Trail' suspension bridge at the gorge bottom (2019).

The 'Sky Ladder Trail' suspension bridge (2023).

The 'Sky Ladder Trail' sky ladder (2019).

The 'Teacher Zhang Trail' sky ladder.

High route and gorge hiking map (photographed at Teacher Zhang's Inn).

Around 5 p.m. we were back at Teacher Zhang's for a late 'lunch,' then set off for Haba Village. We made a detour to the lower Tiger Leaping Gorge where a ferry once crossed to Daju Township; now a new 'Jinsha River Bridge' stands. We drove to the opposite bank, launched the drone for road filming, feeling like we were already on the 318 National Highway (later we really did it!). Then we deliberately looped back through the Lower Tiger Leaping Tunnel to reach our inn. The Eastern Ring Road had been upgraded during the pandemic years—a smooth drive. We arrived at Shangri-La Haba Banshan Inn (recommended) before dark, ready for station four—Haba camping.

From Teacher Zhang's Inn, don't enter the tunnel but keep right, 6 km to Jinsha River Bridge crossing to Daju Township.

Rainbow on the Eastern Ring Road near Haba.

This inn is mainly run by the landlady; Brother Luosang manages the Fanchen Dela Wild Luxury Camp. She communicated with me beforehand, confirming dinner headcount and time, so as soon as we arrived, the dishes were served—color, aroma, taste all there. Seeing I brought alcohol, she even offered me a taste of her best friend's favorite local liquor. The courtyard was large; at night, the smell of braised beef brisket (for next morning's breakfast) filled the air. We listened to music over tea, watching her earnestly brief guests climbing Haba Snow Mountain the next day.

August 9: In the morning, we finally met the ever-busy Brother Luosang. He told us about the camp, which sounded perfect, so we decided to check in at noon. Driving from the inn to the camp took 9.5 km on a narrow mountain road, the last long stretch unpaved gravel—we had to take it slow, taking 45 minutes to arrive. The camp sits at mid-mountain, alpine meadow terrain, stunningly beautiful. After settling in, a kid named Yiyi at the camp hit it off with us and eagerly led us to pick porcini mushrooms—with an 'expert' guiding us, we found ones as big as fists. First time, we all became little gatherers. Brother Luosang mentioned it was Torch Festival; the camp slaughtered a sheep, and the mutton stew was superb. That evening, they arranged a bonfire and fireworks—we all buzzed with excitement again, the two kids especially showing off their gadget skills. Had we checked in earlier, there'd have been time to horseback ride to the alpine pasture and lake.

Our foraged porcini mushrooms.

The two kids' creative photo—guess how they took it?

Fist-sized porcini.

August 10: Rain fell in the middle of the night until morning, then clouds dispersed and the camp looked like a fairyland—absolutely worth it. We even saw the summit of Haba Snow Mountain.

We left at 10 a.m., driving the Eastern Ring Road. Halfway, with clear skies, we added Baishuitai to our route, then headed to Pudacuo National Park. Nearing Shangri-La, our son searched online and recommended this place near the old town: 'Xueyu Zangjia Hotpot.' We had hotpot—highly recommend the yak meat and Tibetan-style pork.

Shudu Lake at Pudacuo.

After dinner, we checked into 'Shangri-La Xiangbai Zangyi Bieyuan.' During my first self-drive in 2018, we stayed in the old town; this time I deliberately chose the Songzanlin Monastery area. The accommodation gave us a discount on entry tickets—62 yuan each (to enter Songzanlin Monastery with ticket), valid for multiple days. The inn is run by the owner couple, honest folks, their two daughters help out during holidays. If you want dinner there, remember to reserve. The inn faces the monastery, has a courtyard for parking, spacious beautifully decorated rooms—recommended.

August 11: Went back to Xueyu Zangjia for lunch; the sour-spicy pork trotter hotpot was great. We revisited Dukezong. Five years ago, I bought a much-loved tea set at 'Wu Chen' (No Dust), but soon after returning home, 'someone' broke the teapot. This time I came deliberately searching. Their shop had moved, but luckily we stumbled into the new one. My wife recognized the owner (though the couple had both become much rounder). She's now a mom, changed entirely—lost that former 'buy it if you like, or don't' nonchalance. I even called our son in. The two families meeting felt so emotional; we chatted over an hour before picking items to buy. Besides replacing the pot (with 'someone' footing the bill, of course), I also chose one my elder sister would love, to send back as her birthday gift. After exploring the old town, we drove around Napa Lake, then returned to the inn after dinner.

Searching for 'Wu Chen' (the owner sisters now run two 'Wu Chen' shops in the old town).

Our son in 2018 vs. 2023.

The new teapot on top, the original bottom right—not a perfect match, but the joy of reuniting with the maker is what matters.

Hitching a 'Cai Cai' delivery back to my sister, a 2,000-km express just in time for her birthday.

Five-year wish fulfilled, I treated 'Cai Cai' to coffee at 'Xiaocai Coffee.'

August 12: In the morning, my wife and I strolled around Songzanlin Monastery, then after lunch drove to 'Deqin Pianwu Wuxiang Meili Snow Mountain Mansion.' Rainy, winding roads, saw two accidents—really need to slow down. Passed the Jinsha River 'Omega' Bend and stopped for photos. Now it's free, but not necessarily a good thing—the restroom was unusable.

Rainy view of Jinsha River 'Omega' Bend.

We pre-arranged the menu with the mansion; shortly after arriving, dinner was served—OK quality. The mansion has tasteful decor, luxurious facilities, a bit pricey. Small high-rise hotels are being built on both sides; hopefully room rates will drop. Rain and fog hid the golden mountain views.

Due to last-minute work, Cai Cai's family had to cut their trip by a day; they'd turn back toward Lugu Lake the next day. We said our goodbyes.

The two families waved farewell at the mansion entrance ('I couldn't bear to look, you turned your back to me...').

August 13: The original plan for the next day was to visit the thousand-year-old salt pans, then head back the same route and stay one night at Feilai Temple. At 10 a.m., our family set off first. Soon the weather turned perfect, with our son's energetic tunes playing, driving toward Ninong Gorge (not toward Feilai Temple—we wanted to see the ziplines and Yubeng's trailhead). Feelings suddenly surged. I thought for a moment: today is only Sunday, we have a whole week, why not continue to the 318? When I proposed it, wife and son agreed. We pulled over, checked the navigation—clear roads ahead—and made the joyful snap decision (missing the August 14 golden sunrise over Meili). I love that feeling of sudden spontaneous changes.

A half-hour later, we crossed Ninong Bridge, saw the abandoned Ninong suspension bridge and ziplines. I'd eyed this spot on maps for ages, and this special detour didn't disappoint—so spectacular. Just a bit further is the turnoff to Yubeng.

At night scrolling my phone, I watched local videos on a certain short-video app, picking up useful info. The night before, I'd already seen that G214 at Gushui had a mudslide, and it was said they'd finish emergency repairs that night. When we passed at noon, traffic was alternating one-way; we waited under half an hour—pretty lucky. At 1:30 p.m., we entered Markam territory and officially entered Tibet! Ahead was the Qamdo Public Security checkpoint in Tibet; just scan your ID.

At 2 p.m., we reached the famous 'Yanjing Authentic One-Bite Noodle'—30 yuan per person, all-you-can-eat, with a record of 147 bowls written on the wall. Servers sang and danced, relentlessly urging 'one more, one more.' With each added bowl, you drop a pebble into a basket on the table to keep count. The noodles were ordinary, but the experience was pure joy—recommend it.

Then we visited the Yanjing Catholic Church and the thousand-year-old salt pans, before heading to Markam. Arrived at 6 p.m., chose a hotel on the spot—'Markam Baijing Hotel' right on the main road, inspected before checking in, 250 yuan/night, clean and tidy, with a courtyard for parking downstairs. We stir-fried a few dishes at the shop opposite and went back to sleep.

August 14: Left at 6:30 a.m., passed an intersection I'd staring at on maps so often, stopped to look—felt that one day, I'd be making a left turn here (heading deeper into Tibet).

This time, I turned right.

We visited Cuopugou Scenic Area—what a surprise! Strongly recommend. Turns out you can self-drive in, but you need to reserve on the scenic area's mini-app a day in advance. We didn't know, so booked tickets on Ctrip, taking the visitor center bus with very few tourists, a 13-km ride to the inner area (road under construction, took half an hour). Perfect weather: Zhangde Grassland against the backdrop of Zhajinjiabou Sacred Mountain—so colorful, so majestic. I instantly knew we hadn't picked the wrong place, plus there was a 318 highway marker, giving it major vibes. The bus only went to Cuopu Lake; from there you can take an electric cart to the highest Cuopu Temple, then walk back downhill past two smaller lakes and Cuopu Lake. It completely surpasses Pudacuo and rivals Jiuzhaigou.

Around 4:20 p.m. we set off for Litang, the scenery along the way breathtaking, with a stop at Sister Lakes. Checked into Litang Qianhu Zangzhai Hotel, right by the main road, parking at the entrance. Ordered takeaway luosifen (snail noodles) for dinner. In the 'City in the Sky,' a touch of altitude sickness is only fitting—I was the only one with a headache. The hotel had an oxygen machine; I slept with it on and felt fine the next morning.

August 15: Departed at 7 a.m., hit a half-hour jam at the '18 Bends of the Sky Road' because of cars parked roadside and people walking against traffic; otherwise, smooth driving all the way. Passed Kangding Airport just in time to see a plane land. Zheduo Mountain was crowded and foggy—we didn't stop. Near 3 p.m. reached Kangding Love Song Square; no parking along the riverside road, but spots were available further in. Snapped a photo, had a hotpot, then headed to Dujiangyan, checking into Bailun International Hotel at 8 p.m. (staying two nights, recommended), with dinner at the mall downstairs.

August 16: Finally, a proper lazy breakfast! The hotel's spread was good—my wife and I lingered two hours at the table. Then hit the hotel pool. Not sure if returning from altitude gave us extra power, but I swam without feeling tired. Only went out after 1 p.m. to find food, deliberately choosing 'Fuyao' on Dujiangyan Avenue Section 3, which we'd glimpsed the night before with many eateries. The hotpot was out of this world, excellent. Then we strolled Yangtianwo Square and Dujiangyan Scenic Area.

August 17: Today I accompanied my wife and son to see pandas (something I'd stopped doing years ago!). Surprisingly they're trendy again now, and booking last-minute only left afternoon sessions—perfect, meaning we could enjoy another two-hour breakfast. At 11 a.m., we went to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, entering via the West Gate (few crowds, few cars). The place is huge; definitely take the electric shuttle. After 2.5 hours, we headed to Chengdu and checked into Shangri-La Hotel. Only after settling in did we learn our license plate would be restricted the next day, so the family extended one more night.

August 18: We only went to Taikoo Li at noon, didn't drive—taxis are cheap. Xiaolongkan hotpot, then shopping; I splurged at the 'fruit shop,' making our son very happy. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed afternoon tea on the top floor (a perk of the Horizon Club)—good quality, ample drinks, practically dinner. Then walked to Dongmen Wharf for a Jinjiang night cruise. Sichuan's service is excellent, must give thumbs up.

August 19: officially headed home. Left at 10 a.m., by 5 p.m. checked into Zunyi Guizhou Hotel, buffet 128 yuan per person, very good quality.

August 20: Departed at 8 a.m., my wife and I taking turns driving, 12.5 hours back to Guangzhou. Total journey: 5,200 kilometers. Complete, perfect.