Christmas Season 2023 Family Reunion in Spain - The Ancient Segovia
After work on December 15, my husband and I flew from Shanghai to Madrid, and our daughter flew from Bristol, UK to Madrid. After being separated for three months, our family of three finally reunited. Why Spain? A country that led the world during the Age of Exploration must be full of rare treasures; a place ruled by different peoples in succession would surely have forged a more diverse culture; cities with masters like Gaudi, Picasso, and Goya would certainly not lack scenery! Moreover, winter in Spain is relatively warm in Europe.
Spain, untouched by the fires of World War II, has preserved a large number of medieval monuments. Many cities have old quarters with narrow streets, and urban development revolves around these ancient buildings for tourism. The history of these cities is as dry and eventful as the winter here. Although Spain is not large in area or population, it has become one of the world's top tourist destinations. How to choose representative and distinctive travel destinations? Typical itineraries often include several classic cities in both Spain and Portugal, but we spent fifteen days on an in-depth trip to Spain. I highly recommend Córdoba and Granada.
On December 15, our daughter flew direct from Bristol to Madrid and stayed one night in the city center. We flew from Shanghai with a transfer in Beijing and entered Spain on the morning of the 16th.
On December 16, we met up at Moncloa metro station in Madrid, took a bus to Segovia, stayed overnight, and booked a famous restaurant in advance for suckling pig.
On December 17, we took a bus back to Madrid in the afternoon, visited Retiro Park, and had our first paella in an old street restaurant.
On December 18, we took a bus from Plaza Elíptica station in Madrid for a day trip to Toledo. After returning to Madrid, we visited the Prado Museum and had seafood and lamb dinner at a restaurant in an old street.
On December 19, we went outlet shopping, returned to Madrid, and had Hunan cuisine at Xiang Yu in the evening.
On December 20, we visited the Royal Palace of Madrid, a market, and a temple, with Italian dinner in the evening.
On December 21, we took a train to Córdoba, visited the Roman Bridge, shopped at the supermarket to cook our own meal, and watched Spanish ham slicing.
On December 22, we visited the Great Mosque, Calleja de las Flores, and Plaza del Potro. Shopped at the supermarket to cook our own meal.
On December 23, we took a train to Granada. Had a difficult communication with the landlord. In the afternoon, we visited the Granada Cathedral with a Chinese audio guide, the Albaicín neighborhood, and Mirador San Nicolás. Shopped at Carrefour to cook our own meal.
On December 24, we walked to the Alhambra, shopped at Carrefour, bought Spanish ham at an old shop, and celebrated Christmas.
On December 25, we took a coach from Granada to Seville, then a taxi to the apartment. Visited the Metropol Parasol and the Flamenco Dance Museum. Cooked dinner with ingredients we brought.
On December 26, we visited the Seville Alcázar, the cathedral, and in the evening went to Plaza de España. Had pizza in a basement for dinner.
On December 27, we strolled through the old streets of Seville and department stores, spent time in a café, then flew to Barcelona on a budget airline. Had Thai food in the evening.
On December 28, we visited the Sagrada Família, Casa Milà, and Casa Batlló, and had Japanese food for dinner.
On December 29, we unsuccessfully tried to visit Park Güell, then went to the seaside, Columbus Monument, Gothic Quarter, and went shopping. Had our first outdoor meal.
On December 30, we took a taxi to the airport and did tax refund.
December 16
We carefully chose this Air China flight because it was the only one arriving in Spain in the morning; other flights mostly arrive in the afternoon or evening, wasting a day. Landing at Madrid Barajas Airport early in the morning, possibly due to the early hour, customs was very fast. From T1 we took Metro Line 8 to the terminus Nuevos Ministerios, then transferred to Line 6 to Moncloa. While waiting for the metro, I nervously watched for pickpockets. My husband said pickpockets don't get up this early; if they could get up early, they wouldn't be pickpockets. At Moncloa, we followed signs to buy bus tickets direct to Segovia.
Bus company: Avanza autobus. Tickets can be bought on the spot, fare €4.60 per person. Buses run about every half hour, direct. While waiting for our daughter to meet us, we had breakfast at a nearby shop. The hot chocolate was so thick it could have used two more cups of water to dilute. Stepping out of Moncloa to get some fresh air, we saw a sky full of morning glow; no filter needed, nature's palette is unparalleled. The air was crisp.
About an hour and a half later, we arrived at Segovia coach station. There were paid toilets inside. Although the distance from the station to the hotel was not long, pulling our luggage over the uneven cobblestone streets, especially the continuous uphill, was quite exhausting.
From my research, another way to get to Segovia is by train: take the Renfe train from T4 (B1) to Madrid-Chamartín station, then a train from there to Segovia. Segovia's train station is 1.5 km from the city center. After arriving, take the local bus 11, which ends at the aqueduct (coordinated with train times, about 20 minutes, €2, cash only). Most attractions in Segovia are walkable. Alternatively, a taxi costs €8 per car (regular four-seat taxi, regardless of passenger count). Comparatively, the bus is more economical and convenient.
As one of the oldest cities in Spain, Segovia has witnessed much of the Iberian Peninsula's history. From the Romans founding the city, to the Celts occupying it for three centuries, and before King Alfonso VI of Castile regained control, the city was also ruled by the Arabs for a period. For the next five hundred years, several Castilian kings had their capital here. Most of the buildings in the old town date from this period. Later, during the Renaissance, the Moors introduced the textile industry, bringing another period of prosperity to Segovia.
The center of Segovia is the magnificent Plaza Mayor, surrounded by the city's most important buildings. Our hotel, Infanta Isabel by Recordis Hotels, was right there, opposite the Segovia Cathedral, at the highest point of the old town. The hotel was surrounded by charming shops with windows full of colorful goods. We were attracted by the generously stuffed ham sandwiches: crispy bread packed with plenty of Spanish ham, delicious at €5.50 each.
The Alcázar of Segovia is located at the western end of the city, on a rocky promontory with cliffs on three sides, connected to the city only by a drawbridge. The blue sky, white clouds, and sunshine were always enchanting. We wandered, ate, and enjoyed ourselves, starting our vacation mode.
The Alcázar ticket had no discount for foreign students; €7 per ticket. From the 12th century, Catholic monarchs gradually developed it into a fortress-palace form, until the 16th century when it took its current shape: ornate towers distinguishing it from other castles, and Mudejar-style interiors. The fairy-tale castle exterior photographs very well.
One of the largest ancient Roman remains in Spain is located in Segovia. This great aqueduct, built in Roman times, presents a city portrait that has spanned millennia and transmitted civilization. Even in ruins, this magnificent aqueduct remains the most imposing and best-preserved Roman structure on the Iberian Peninsula. At the top is a water channel. The aqueduct measures 728 meters in length, supported by 166 arches, and used nearly 20,000 stones in its construction. The builders used no cement or other binders.
As the sun set, this thousand-year-old city, which rose and fell with the changes of times and rulers—reputed as Spain's most spectacular World Heritage city—quietly watched the dusk and the castle's great stones.
Night fell, and the mountain mist was heavy. The Segovia Cathedral in the square was outlined by lights, looking ethereal. Roast suckling pig is a must-try dish in Segovia. We booked at Jose Maria restaurant in advance on its official website. The restaurant is named after the owner himself; unlike Cándido's which caters to tourists, this one is frequented mostly by locals. They serve suckling pig as well—a bite of the crispy skin and tender meat is unforgettable. But they don't have the plate-smashing show for tourists. The restaurant has an English menu; order by "Cochinillo" in Spanish or "milk-fed suckling pig" in English. A long-awaited reunion dinner felt wonderful!
December 17
Our room had a small balcony facing the old street. Though narrow, it offered a different angle and height to enjoy the view. The sky was clear outside the window, and we were in a great mood.
In the morning, we wandered through the old town. We followed the winding cobblestone streets and stopped at Plaza San Martín, built in the 12th century. The buildings in the old town seemed to transcend time, quietly awaiting the new day.
I suggest staying one night in Segovia. I saw many day trips from Madrid online. Today we returned to Madrid. On the way to the bus station, we noticed many police officers, seemingly for a major event. While we were at a loss, an elderly gentleman who spoke fluent English proactively pointed out a detour to Segovia bus station—he was one of only two Spaniards we met who spoke standard English. The coach station had Avanza bus ticket machines, which only accept credit cards (needing a 4-digit PIN). So we bought tickets at the counter. If you can estimate your time, it's better to buy round-trip tickets in advance to avoid waiting at the station like we did.
We stayed at Hostal Palacio Luna in Madrid for four days. After exiting the bus station, we took the metro directly and got off at Gran Vía station, just a five-minute walk to the hotel. The hostel was in an apartment building with a tiny elevator, but it solved our heavy luggage problem. It was run by a Chinese brother and sister. The triple room layout was good, but with three large suitcases open, there was no room to walk. The hostel was in the city center, with a supermarket and restaurants downstairs, very convenient.
Tip for independent travelers: The most economical ticket for Madrid public transport is the T10 ticket. As the name suggests, it's a 10-trip ticket. Valid for metro and bus, costs €12.20 per ticket. One T10 ticket can be used by multiple people; just buy one for two people. It can also be used from the airport to the city center, but you need to pay a €3 supplement. Additionally, the T10 is only valid in Zone A, which covers almost all interesting places.
Madrid's metro is extensive and reaches attractions directly, very convenient. Actually, the city center is relatively small, and distances between major sights are walkable. So when traveling in Madrid, instead of using Google Maps to find the metro, it's more efficient to just walk to the next attraction. Plus you can enjoy Madrid's urban architecture along the way, essentially a small city walk—two birds with one stone.
Retiro Park was built in the 17th century and was a royal garden for a long time; now it's open to the public for free. The park is full of green trees and sparkling water. The main road into the park is lined with various performers, each doing their own thing without interfering, creating a harmonious and amusing atmosphere. It's definitely a great place to relax and get close to nature. In front of the monument to King Alfonso XII, there is a large lake where ducks and their reflections form a delightful scene. The famous Crystal Palace is located in Retiro Park.
After all, it was winter, and it got dark early. Our daughter found a good Spanish restaurant not far away in the old town. The intertwined small streets hid many restaurants and cafés. In Spain, restaurants open at 2 PM for lunch and at 8 PM for dinner; we never got used to the meal times during our stay. We finally entered one and sat waiting, watching the unhurried preparation of the staff. When we could finally order, the waiter's first words were 'No no no, no English~' Accompanied by awkward but polite laughter, we had to order using photo translation. Luckily, everything was very tasty! Ordering with a language barrier was a bit painful; the only English-speaking waiter became our lifesaver.
Christmas was a week away, and everywhere was decorated with festive elements. Suddenly we saw a long queue in front of a shop. Curiously, we went over and found everyone waiting to buy lottery tickets. This peculiar sight was common throughout our two weeks in Spain: on weekends and holidays, all shops were closed except for lottery shops.
