Stories Told by Architecture – A 9-Day Self-Drive Tour of Spain
Why does Spain attract the whole world? Is it the dazzling historical monuments, the breathtaking scenery and architecture? Is it the charming Madrid or the rustic villages immortalized by Cervantes in his books? Is it the Mediterranean sunshine or the thrilling bullfights? Why do people around the world love Europe, while Europeans love Spain?
As one of the countries with the most World Heritage sites, passionate Spain is rich in culture and talent. From the Roman aqueduct in Segovia to the Alhambra in Granada, and from the Alhambra to the Sagrada Família, Spain interprets what "perfection" means with one architectural marvel after another. From Picasso to Dalí, genius inspiration has been freely unleashed under the Spanish sun. Mountains, countryside, sunshine, beaches, a glorious history, and world-renowned artistic treasures—like pearls, they emit a soft yet vibrant radiance.
Spain, a nation invaded successively by the Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, and other peoples, experienced long periods of separation, interweaving, replacement, and re-separation of various cultures. Their fusion and collision, along with the clever borrowing and integration of diverse styles, gave rise to a culture without constraints and architecture with a unique charm. You can see Gothic churches, medieval classical city halls, Romanesque monasteries, and modern Art Nouveau abstract museums all on the same streets... These buildings richly reflect Spain's colorful culture.
Here, all mainstream concepts lose their meaning. Spanish culture and architecture have developed in a wandering manner—connections between events are free, disordered, random, and full of coincidences, as fascinating as Cervantes' Don Quixote. You don't even know where to start from a "long, long time ago," nor what the next "but that's another story" refers to. In fact, you don't need to know at all. For those about to set foot on the Iberian Peninsula, it's enough to simply enjoy the insights and pleasures brought by these surprises.
"No country is better suited for weaving stories than Spain." Come, let's step into the story together...
Day 1 Madrid: Due to road closures, after lunch check in at Hotel Quatro Puerta del Sol. Afterwards, walk through Plaza Mayor and enjoy the sunset at the Royal Palace of Madrid.
Day 2 Segovia: Check in at Hotel Real Segovia. After breakfast, visit the Royal Palace of Madrid. After lunch, pass through Las Rozas Village to Segovia and check into a hotel with nearly a century of history.
Day 3 Salamanca: Check in at Hotel Casino del Tormes. After breakfast, explore the old town of Segovia. After a Chinese lunch, head to Salamanca.
Day 8 Seville: Check in at La Suite de Rubens. Return from Portugal to Spain at noon. Visit the Seville Cathedral, and in the evening explore Plaza de España.
Day 9 Granada: Check in at Carmen Terrazas de la Alhambra. After lunch, visit the Alhambra.
Day 10 Torrevieja: Check in at Hostal HB Torrevieja. Visit the trendy Torrevieja in Spain.
Day 11 Valencia: Check in at Mon Suites Catedral. Visit Valencia Cathedral.
Day 12 Barcelona: Check in at Hostal Marenostrum. Visit the Sagrada Família.
Day 13 Barcelona
Arriving in Madrid at noon, similar to other European cities, the roads twist and turn. Though the distance seemed short, we couldn't reach our destination. Strangely, the navigation showed the necessary road was blocked. After circling a few times, we stumbled upon a parking lot, so we parked and went for lunch. We randomly entered a restaurant that seemed popular with locals. We ordered paella for three, but in the end, we couldn't finish it.
The main square (Plaza Mayor) area mainly sells traditional items such as various fabrics, ropes, hats, and religious articles. The square was commissioned by Philip III in 1619 and has a unique rectangular shape. It measures 128 meters wide and 94 meters long, enclosed by four-story buildings. In the center stands an equestrian statue of Philip III. Over its long history after construction, it suffered three fires and was rebuilt, finally taking its current form after 1953.
The Almudena Cathedral is directly opposite the Royal Palace of Madrid. Its exterior is very striking, and it is actually a royal church. Construction began in 1879 and took over a century, completed in 1993. Compared to the aforementioned Seville Cathedral and the Great Mosque of Córdoba, it is quite young. In 2004, the globally sensational wedding of Prince Felipe and news anchor Letizia was held here, giving birth to Spain's first commoner queen.
The Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real de Madrid) is the third largest palace in Europe after Versailles and the Schönbrunn Palace. Built in 1738, it took 26 years to complete and is one of the best-preserved and most exquisite palaces in the world. The exterior is square, similar to the Louvre in France, while the interior is decorated in Italian style, resplendent. It houses countless gold and silver vessels, paintings, porcelain, tapestries, and other royal items. The palace has been turned into a museum; tickets should be bought online in advance. Standing in a long line in the cold wind was truly torturous.
The origin of the Royal Palace of Madrid dates back to the 9th century, when it was first a fortress built by the Muslim king of Toledo on the left bank of the Manzanares River to resist invasion. Later, it was occupied by the Kingdom of Castile. In the 16th century, it became the old Alcázar. On Christmas Eve 1734, the Alcázar was destroyed by a great fire, and Philip V decided to build a new palace on the site. The main structure of the rebuilt palace was entirely made of stone and brick, without any wood, so no fire could ever destroy it again. Photography was mostly prohibited inside the palace; only the entrance staircase allowed photos.
Las Rozas Village is located on the edge of a mountain range, just a 30-minute drive from Madrid. It gathers over 100 Spanish and international brand boutiques. Once we started shopping, we lost track of time. Suddenly noticing the sky had darkened, we reluctantly left, which led us to encounter heavy snow while crossing the mountains.
The name Segovia comes from the Celtiberian language, meaning "city of victory." The old town sits on a narrow rocky ridge, with numerous historical sites, including the cathedral, the Roman aqueduct, the Alcázar of Segovia, and many Romanesque churches such as San Esteban, San Martín, and San Millán. The surrounding walls were built in the 8th century on Roman foundations and have been extensively restored in recent decades.
In the early morning, braving the snow, we strolled through this ancient city that reveals a complex historical reality. The layout, streets, and houses reflect different cultural backgrounds—Moorish, Christian, and Jewish. Every step felt like walking into history. I thought how pleasant it would be to stay here for a few more days.
The Segovia Cathedral stood proudly in the heavy snow. We almost rushed inside and were immediately awestruck by its grandeur. If Romanesque architecture displays the authority of the church through its solid, sturdy, and immovable forms, carrying a sense of tradition revival, then Gothic architecture embodies the sacred spirit of the church through the barbaric vigor, agility, and upward force. Its vertical lines, sudden spatial progression, colorful light through stained glass, and various delicate carvings create a "non-human" realm, evoking mystery. Some say Romanesque buildings are earthly palaces, while Gothic cathedrals are divine temples in heaven.
The Roman aqueduct was built during the reign of Emperor Trajan (53–117 AD) and remains intact. It is made of yellow-brown granite blocks without mortar, extremely sturdy. The aqueduct is 813 meters long, comprising two levels with 148 arches, rising 30.25 meters above the ground—a magnificent sight.
The itinerary was somewhat rushed, and we had to leave at noon, regrettably missing the Alcázar. However, we found some comfort in eating authentic Chinese food in the city.
Most of the buildings in Salamanca were constructed in the 19th century by the Marquis of Salamanca and have become one of the most luxurious neighborhoods in Europe, a symbol of elegance and charm. It is said that most buildings in Salamanca bear red graffiti, a tradition dating back to the 15th century: university graduates would celebrate by participating in bullfights and then write the word "victory" with the bull's blood on the wall, along with the date. However, we did not see many such red marks.
Emerging from the cathedral at dusk, we walked through alleys where a biting wind blew. It is said that the stone used in Salamanca's buildings glitters under the night lights, earning the city the nickname "Golden City." But such weather was hardly suitable for a stroll in the old town. Instead, we chose a restaurant with a thick wooden door that kept the cold out.
Returning from Portugal to Spain, the first city we entered was Seville. We arrived around two o'clock, but unfortunately, the landlord was late, wasting some time. After settling in, we hurried to the city center. Passing the beautiful and understated Salvador Church, where many people were sipping coffee in the sun but no one was queuing at the entrance, we quickly decided to go in first before visiting the cathedral.
The beautiful, understated exterior belied the church's nature. The extremely ornate interior in Golden Baroque style struck us with awe upon entry. This church felt more intimate and charming. Fortunately, we bought a combined ticket for Salvador and the cathedral here, so we avoided the long queue in front of the cathedral—quite a self-congratulatory moment.
Seville, like many European cities, has a cathedral marking its center. The majestic cathedral always features a spacious hall, a resplendent chapel, and a towering bell tower to enhance its grandeur. Seville Cathedral is indeed spectacular in these respects, but what truly captivates is the bell tower known as La Giralda.
Seville Cathedral is the third largest church in the world, after St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City and Milan Cathedral in Italy. Built between 1402 and 1506, it was influenced by various artistic styles—Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque—over its construction period of more than a century. Yet the overall building belongs to the peak of Spanish Gothic art, while incorporating Arabic architectural elements. The organic combination of these two architectural arts has created today's exquisite artistic work.
Plaza de España in Seville was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It is a typical example of the Spanish Renaissance Revival style and a缩影 of Neo-Mudéjar architecture. This is a huge 270-degree semicircular square, with the main tower in the center and two auxiliary towers at the ends, facing the María Luisa Park. Designed by architect Aníbal González, the exterior is adorned with ceramic tiles representing the original 58 provinces of Spain, depicting the myriad charms of Spanish cities. Roman-style arcades, arches, capitals, fountains, rivers, small bridges, tiled railings, along with the seamless blend of Arabic and Spanish architectural styles, make Seville's Plaza de España unique and breathtakingly beautiful!
Returning from Plaza de España to the hotel required crossing half of Seville's old town. After some hesitation, we decided to walk back, because it gave us another chance to admire this exquisitely fine old city and because the opportunity to accidentally stand before a thousand-year-old monument is rare.
Granada is a city perfect for strolling and daydreaming. The artistic brilliance of its monuments and the enchanting shimmer of fountains, ponds, and parks are a feast for the eyes. The narrow streets contrast sharply with the magnificent gardens. The surrounding religious atmosphere and the cheerful vibe of the cave houses in the Sacromonte district always bring a fresh experience.
Today's Granada is Spain's precious cultural heritage and artistic treasure. The Alhambra complex, the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, the bullring, and other sites attract tourists from all over the world every year. According to statistics, Granada receives the highest number of visitors among all Spanish cities.
The Alhambra (Alhambra Palace) was the palace of the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada, built by the Moors in medieval Spain. Its name comes from Arabic, meaning "Red Castle." The palace is located on a hill at the northern end of Granada and is the essence of Arabic architectural art. After the Moors were expelled from Spain in 1492, the Alhambra fell into disrepair. In 1828, with funding from Ferdinand VII, architect José Contreras and his son and grandson undertook a long-term restoration, returning it to its original state. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Alhambra is also vastly different from other Spanish palaces. There are no eye-catching large portraits, no gold cups or silver goblets, no jewels or jades, and no lavish furniture... The empty palace highlights only the intricately carved walls: from every arch's frame, window frame, niche, to the ceiling, spiral Arabic calligraphy and geometric patterns cover almost the entire interior. The Arabic script, incomprehensible to most visitors, adds a touch of mystery. The dazzling carvings are neither stone nor brick but plaster stucco.
Emerging from the Alhambra at dusk, we hurried to the hotel. The hotel was on a hillside, accessed by narrow and steep roads. We admired the driver's skill but also marveled at this old city built along the mountain, simple yet elegant, like a beauty in her twilight years retaining all her past charms. Following the host's recommendation, we went down to the city center for dinner. Stepping on the dark flagstones and winding through narrow alleys felt like entering a labyrinth. It was a well-known local restaurant, crowded, bustling, and noisy.
Today's destination was the trendy pink Torrevieja. On the way, we stopped in Murcia for lunch at a delicious Chinese restaurant near Murcia Cathedral. Unfortunately, the cathedral was not open at that time, so we could only linger outside. It is said that the cathedral's 23 chapels and a 92-meter tower encompass almost all architectural styles. The cathedral of the Diocese of Cartagena was built between 1394 and 1465 in Gothic style. The bell tower was completed in 1792, showing a mix of styles: the bottom two floors are Renaissance (1521–1546), the third is Baroque, and the dome is influenced by Rococo and Neoclassicism. The façade (1736–1754) is Spanish Baroque.
It is said that the Torrevieja salt lake in Spain is a pink pearl in the green fields, with rippling waters exuding romance. Perhaps because it was a cold winter day, we could not perceive the so-called freshness, elegance, and pink visual seasoning. Instead, the reeds on the shore shimmered with a unique brilliance under the setting sun.
Torrevieja is a small coastal town with scenery as beautiful as a painting: azure sea, soft sand, soaring birds, and frolicking fish and shrimp. There are always people playing on the soft beach. This is a paradise of nature and a haven for leisure travel. The ancient and traditional churches have always stood here, witnessing the town's turmoil and changes, as well as many joys and sorrows. Together with the museums on the streets and the natural parks, they form the most beautiful city. The Chinese food was delicious, and although we walked quite a distance, it was worth it.
Valencia was originally a small village founded by the ancient Greeks. After being occupied by the Romans in 138 BC, it was renamed "Valencia," a name that has persisted. The Romans brought language and culture; the Visigoths left a brief but incompletely deciphered history; and later the Arabs turned Valencia into a beautiful garden with their scientific wealth. That's why Spaniards say, "Valencia was built by the Romans but developed by the Arabs."
Valencia Cathedral was built on the site of a mosque from the 3rd century. Construction began in 1262 and ended in 1426, followed by expansions and renovations that added other stylistic traces to the original Gothic style. The three entrances are respectively Neo-Romanesque (main door), Baroque (south door, the Apostle's Gate), and Visigothic (north door, the Apostle's Gate). The Holy Grail Chapel houses what is said to be the chalice used by Jesus at the Last Supper.
Serranos Towers were built in the 14th century as part of Valencia's city walls. Today, the walls are mostly destroyed, leaving only two gates, of which this is one.
Las Ramblas is the first wide avenue built in Barcelona. Because various street performers entertain here with all kinds of shows, and there are numerous "living statues" along the street, it is also commonly known as "the street of wanderers." Our hotel was on this avenue. Arriving in Barcelona from Valencia felt like entering a different world—colorful and dazzling.
Although the Sagrada Família is still unfinished, it has been selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In November 2010, Pope Benedict XVI declared the church a minor basilica. Construction began in 1882, and Gaudí took over in 1883, incorporating his own architectural style, along with Gothic and Art Nouveau elements. Gaudí devoted his later years to the church until his death in 1926 at the age of 73, by which time less than a quarter of the church had been completed. It is expected to be completed in 2026, the centenary of Gaudí's death. Hopefully, I can come again that year.
The exterior of the Sagrada Família is astonishing, but the dreamlike design and light effects inside are truly breathtaking. The church imitates a forest with towering trees; entering feels like walking into an ancient forest. Sunlight streams through the magnificent ceiling, mysterious and ethereal. Gaudí's genius shines within the church. The Sagrada Família is a revolution in church architecture, interpreting a divine world with a completely different understanding.
La Roca Village stands on the road to the Costa Brava. Although it's only a 40-minute drive from Barcelona, finding the right exit was not easy. We circled around for half an hour before finally getting off the highway, arriving at this peaceful and beautiful area in Catalonia.
In just a few days, it's impossible to fully discover the beauty of Spain. So let's consider this trip as a reconnaissance. I hope to set foot on this passionate land again in the near future.
