Spain Family Reunion Trip During Christmas 2023 – Córdoba and Granada, the Highlights of the Journey

December 21

After checking out, we took an Uber to Madrid's Atocha station. Online introductions call it the wonderful Atocha Railway Station because its interior is practically a tropical plant paradise. Since I was constantly communicating with Shanghai about work matters, I didn't have a chance to appreciate the station. The train took less than 2 hours to reach Córdoba. Because we had read various reports online about poor security in Spain and many pickpockets, we frequently checked to see if our luggage on the racks was still safe.

We booked a two-night stay at the apartment tourist accommodation Apartamentos Turísticos Duque de Hornachuelos in Córdoba, an 8-minute walk from the famous La Mezquita Mosque. From the train station, it was a 10-plus-minute walk to the old town. We first went to the apartment management office to pick up the keys. The young man spoke fluent English and explained how to check out and pointed out the main attractions on the map. Then we walked about 10 minutes to the center of Córdoba's old town, but Google Maps gave a wrong direction, so we couldn't open the gate at all. Looking up, we realized we had the wrong house number. I wonder if any camera captured our three people's various actions and expressions.

The sunlight was brilliant, making the clear sky sparkle like a gem. The sloping cobblestone streets and steps, with high walls, balconies, and street lamps on both sides, gave a winding path feeling that blurred the line between reality and the Middle Ages. Unique little shops lined up one after another, and we couldn't resist buying some souvenirs. The palace here looked relatively simple, so we didn't buy tickets to enter, but we were attracted by the palm trees around the palace, which represented the tropics. Is it usually very hot here? The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos of Córdoba is near the Guadalquivir River, not far from the Roman Bridge, and across the street is the famous Great Mosque.

Ahead was the Roman Bridge, an ancient bridge standing quietly over the Guadalquivir River, leaving only tranquility and the sediment of history. A street performer played an accordion on a loop: "Bella Ciao, Bella Ciao!" It seemed he knew no other tunes. Standing at the southern end of the bridge, the mosque on the opposite shore and the ancient bridge complemented each other beautifully.

Our family has always loved Spanish ham, but the prices back home are very high. During this trip to the origin country, indulging was a must. Seeing a shop on the old street with a black pig model as its sign, we were drawn in. Iberian ham (Jamón Ibérico) was displayed prominently, fixed on a stand with the hoof facing upward. The boss tightened the screw, sharpened the knife, and sliced the firm ham with a sharp blade. The meat had a marbled texture. From personal experience, for gifts, the black label is more prestigious, but for daily consumption, the difference between red label and black label is not huge; I highly recommend buying. We bought 300 yuan worth of 50% Iberian ham, just 15 euros for unlimited deliciousness.

The 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom apartment was fully equipped with kitchenware; guests only needed to buy their own food. Since Christmas was approaching and we worried that restaurants and supermarkets might close during the holidays, we rented apartments instead of hotels around the holiday, with a well-equipped kitchen as one of the selection criteria. Each time we bought a large cart of groceries and cooked for ourselves in the following days.

Our daughter, who is studying abroad in the UK, had left us a few months ago and had been forced to learn cooking skills. She could now fry steak proficiently, controlling the heat well. After three months, she finally tasted her father's cooking again.

December 22

Today's main goal was the Great Mosque of Córdoba (Mezquita de Córdoba), not only one of the most famous tourist attractions in Córdoba but also one of the largest Islamic sacred buildings in Spain. It looks like a mosque but is actually a Christian cathedral. As soon as we entered, we were attracted by singing from not far away. It turned out to be six or seven teenagers singing, accompanied only by a simple guitar and harmonies. Their voices were beautiful, and their expressions sincere and engaged, especially striking against the backdrop of the ancient building.

This largest mosque in Spain is a pilgrimage site for Spanish Muslims, second only to Mecca and Jerusalem. Topographically, the mosque is divided into the front part, the Court of the Orange Trees, and the rear part, the main mosque building, the entire structure being rectangular. Inside, there are 850 horseshoe arches. Besides their functional role, these arches have a strong decorative effect. The horseshoe arches unfold layer upon layer before the eyes, creating a vast and deep sense of space. The red and white striped arches are full of Arab style, creating a dreamy atmosphere. Because it was later converted into a church, it combines different architectural styles such as Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque. Walking through the entire building feels like traveling through time and space.

Walking east a short distance from the northern side of the Great Mosque along Calle Cardental Herrero (the street where the Puerta del Perdón is located), you come to a famous alley: Calleja de las Flores (Flower Alley). The people of Córdoba love growing flowers. In this narrow, winding alley, flowers hang on walls, sit on windowsills, and even the air is filled with floral scents. I suggest girls not miss Flower Alley; any casual pose there makes a beautiful photo. The white walls on both sides are always decorated with seasonal flowers, and the small artsy shops on both sides give this little alley a spring atmosphere all year round. Travelers who love flowers and beauty should not miss Flower Alley.

Just around the corner from Flower Alley, we found a well-reviewed small restaurant to sample local cuisine. Córdoba's most famous dish is cold vegetable soup (Salmorejo); plus, meat lovers cannot miss the traditional Córdoba chicken and ham roll (Flamenquín)! And of course, oxtail stew (Rabo de toro), which is said to be slow-cooked for two to three hours.

Plaza del Potro is one of the representative sights of Córdoba. At the top is a small horse statue, the city emblem of Córdoba. This Renaissance fountain dates back to 1577, and the square is named after the horse on top. The square was once a bustling market where vendors gathered, and now there are many gift shops selling local specialties. We saw many people sitting in the sun enjoying food—a lifestyle to be envied.

Before returning to the apartment, we went to the ham shop again to buy another variety of ham. Good food and beautiful scenery—neither can be missed.

December 23

In the morning, we packed and quickly cleaned up the room, hoping that the cleaners would see that the Chinese guests left the apartment tidy and clean. When leaving, we also took out the trash. Following the instructions, we dropped the key into the mailbox on the first floor and set off for the next leg: taking the train from Córdoba to Granada.

People often refer to Córdoba, Seville, and Granada as the Golden Triangle of southern Spanish tourism. Each has a rich history, similar yet unique to one another. Granada, having been under Arab occupation for a long time, is probably the least Spanish of the cities, with a strong Islamic flavor. Its history is so complex that a history teacher might need several lessons to explain it clearly. Roughly, it was ruled by Greeks, Visigoths, Jews, Moors, etc., experiencing war and chaos as well as glory and splendor.

I should mention that English proficiency in Spain is generally moderate, especially among ordinary citizens. Please download Google Translate or the built-in translator on iPhones to be prepared. The landlord we met in Granada could only use the translator to communicate sentence by sentence. The apartment was excellent, but communication was too difficult.

Since we had a reservation for the Alhambra on the 24th and the cathedral would be closed on the 25th, we dropped off our luggage and first went to the Granada Cathedral. The cathedral is located in the old town, tightly surrounded by other buildings. The entrance is unremarkable, but the interior is stunning. The entire interior is built of white marble, giving a very bright overall tone. Adult tickets were €5 each, student tickets €3.5, with a Chinese audio guide included.

After leaving the cathedral, we immediately plunged into the narrow streets of the Albayzín district, climbing up ancient cobblestone steps, quickly losing our sense of direction. We barely managed with the help of the map. The Albayzín is the old Muslim quarter of Granada, colloquially the Moorish Muslim residential community. Its status equals that of the Alhambra, as it is a World Heritage site. It has winding, narrow streets with a medieval atmosphere, as well as infamous safety warnings. Facing the splendid Alhambra, it has accompanied history for a thousand years.

The alleys of the Albayzín are winding and twisting, with shops on both sides full of Arab style, selling various Arab foods and handicrafts. You can't see the end of the alley from one corner, and while wandering, maybe a malicious person is hiding around that corner. Indeed, all the advice we received was to try not to carry a bag while traveling in Spain, just take a simple bag for odds and ends, safe and inconspicuous.

Around dusk, there were many tourists on the viewpoint, and street artists singing, common everywhere in Europe. Sitting at the viewpoint on the hill, looking at the Alhambra across the way, the mysterious palace projected like a painting under the deep blue sky, with snow-capped mountains in the background adding depth. Plaza San Nicolás, at the highest point of the Albayzín, is the best spot to view the Alhambra; the palace's grandeur is palpable. However, the climb up the steep, narrow, cobblestone streets was a bit painful.

December 24

If the Albayzín represents Muslim life submerged in history, the Alhambra represents the splendor of the Arab kingdom. In Granada, one can delve deep, measuring historical depth on foot, and the other is to view the ancient civilization from a distance on the observation deck opposite. We had booked Alhambra tickets for 10:00 AM, and we needed to arrive at the Nasrid Palaces (Los Palacios Nazaríes) one hour early.

We checked transportation options in advance; almost none were convenient, so we decided to leave before dawn and walk to the Alhambra. The streets were sparsely populated and very quiet. Climbing the winding mountain path, we felt the cold ancient city. The silent streets echoed only with my footsteps. Visiting the Nasrid Palaces requires entering within 30 minutes of the time indicated on the ticket. Due to space constraints, only 300 people are allowed every half hour. If you miss your time slot, you lose the right to enter.

The Alhambra is vast, divided into five architectural groups: the Palace of Charles V, the Nasrid Palaces, the Upper Alhambra, the Alcazaba fortress, and the Generalife gardens. The Nasrid Palaces are the most exquisite part. Sunlight spilled onto the buildings, bringing out the original colors of the walls. The light filtering through the intricate carved decorations was full of historical mottledness. The Court of the Lions had a dazzling beauty. We strolled through the huge Alhambra, admiring the stalactite-decorated domes, exquisite sculptures, and beautiful tiles, experiencing a world full of artistic symbols and visual delight in these buildings and decorations.

Wood, stone, and plaster—these natural materials were meticulously designed and processed by the "master geometers," the Moors, who transformed simple patterns into infinite variations. The fading elaborate carvings on the walls and ceilings, and the touchable Quranic verses inscribed in Arabic on the walls—at that moment, we touched time itself.

Domes, pavilions, carvings, palm trees, and reflections in pools—these intricate carvings are beyond exaggeration to describe as exquisite. Rows of regular slender columns supported the magnificent vaults; intricate carvings covered every corner. Both the fineness of the carving and the richness of colors were dazzling and breathtaking. The strong contrast between reality and emptiness, the superlative craftsmanship, left all the artistic essence of the Moors here, making this a testament to the peak of the Moorish kingdom, a pride of Spain, and a treasure of human civilization. Today, only this palace remains to tell future generations of its past glory and to pass history down to the world.

Next to it, looking somewhat incongruous, is the Palace of Charles V. It is square on the outside and circular inside, with columns around the courtyard casting orderly shadows in the light. It is bold and rough like a bullfighter, forming a sharp contrast with the Islamic palace.

A bit further away, the summer palace Generalife gardens had neatly trimmed yew trees and hedges forming arches, low fountains murmuring, flowers encircling the ponds. The empty Paradise Garden and the Moorish bathhouse were intoxicating. In the sunlight, water danced like notes in the channels.

Travel tips for independent travelers: The Alhambra, one of the hardest tickets to book in the world, is recommended to reserve one to two months in advance on the official website, or a few weeks in advance through domestic travel platforms. This ensures you get your desired day and time slot. However, domestic travel platforms are more expensive than booking directly on the official website. After comparing, we booked our tickets on the official website, so we didn't need to exchange tickets and could enter directly.

Today was a leg endurance challenge! We kept visiting non-stop, not wanting to miss any wonderful spot. After several hours, we were exhausted when we finally left the Alhambra. But we still had an important task: to stock up on food supplies before supermarkets and other stores closed early on the 24th.

This Christmas Eve, we spent it in the amazing city of Granada!