A Family Reunion Trip in Spain During Christmas 2023 - Famous Seville
December 25
After comparing the prices and times of trains and buses, we chose to take a coach from Granada to Seville, a journey of 3 hours. We were initially worried about not being able to hail a taxi on Christmas morning, but it turned out there were taxis operating. A taxi was parked at the central garden not far from our apartment. However, upon arriving in Seville, we found that taxis and Ubers were scarce. Occasionally a car would come, but they had to apologize because of our three large suitcases. In the end, a Tesla taxi barely squeezed the three of us and our three suitcases, taking us from the bus station to the city center's Santa Cruz neighborhood (Barrio de Santa Cruz) in less than 10 minutes for just over 6 euros.
The Tesla had to stop at a small alley because the road ahead was too narrow for the car to pass. Fortunately, after a turn, we arrived at our final apartment of the trip, where the host was already waiting for us. Seville is located in the southern region of Andalusia, separated from North Africa by only a strait. The host seemed a bit puzzled by our earnest and eager desire to learn how to use the heating, but that's because our family has two people who are sensitive to cold!
A five-minute walk from the apartment brought us to the Metropol Parasol, locally known as the “Mushroom,” a honeycomb-structured tree-like building full of futuristic vibes, creating a strong contrast with the surrounding classical architecture. At sunset, children were playing under the big mushroom, and the warm orange sunset cast a gentle veil over the small city—everything was just right.
Seville is the birthplace of flamenco. The Museo del Baile Flamenco is dedicated to promoting flamenco dance culture. We didn't visit the museum but directly bought tickets for the performance, costing 68 euros for the three of us. The 5 PM show required arriving at least half an hour early to grab seats. The dancers were all middle-aged or older, wearing dresses that weren't particularly exquisite but exuded charm. The improvised singing and castanets tested their mutual默契 and control of rhythm. Every passionate step hit our hearts, and every arm movement was a display of strength and beauty. We highly recommend watching a flamenco performance up close—it's truly brilliant.
Worried that shops would be closed on Christmas (like our New Year's Day), we carried leftover ingredients from the previous two days, including drinking water, all the way to this city. As a result, we enjoyed a delicious dinner, but unexpectedly, the apartment used an electric water heater. Washing dishes used up nearly all the hot water, leaving the three of us without hot water for showers. We had to wait for the boiler to reheat for a long time before we could take a quick, cramped shower.
December 26
The Real Alcázar de Sevilla is very popular, and tourists often line up for over an hour to buy tickets at the gate, so it's advisable to book online in advance. We had reserved a 10 AM visit on December 26. The three of us paid $43.5, and there was a Chinese audio guide.
On the way to the palace, we unexpectedly saw another long queue at a lottery stand. It was only the second day of the New Year (by Chinese calendar), but the Spanish people's enthusiasm for lottery tickets was evident.
A building can carry such heavy history of a region, and its people can embrace the commonalities of different religions and cultures—this is precisely the gain from travel. The Alcázar of Seville was built in the Middle Ages, incorporating the essence of Seville's historical architecture. After renovations by successive kings, it became a unique palace mixing various elements. Originally a Moorish fortress, it later fused Islamic, Christian, and Gothic styles, perfectly reflecting the architectural style of the Andalusia region.
Similar to the Alhambra from our previous stop, the palace walls were decorated with intricate yet rhythmic patterns, splendid ceilings, and the inevitable Arabic courtyards with water features. These elements constantly reminded us of the “fusion” of different cultures. In the palace gardens, there were many peacocks, though they didn't display their beautiful feathers for the visitors.
Opposite the palace was the cathedral; tickets for three cost 31 euros. Entering the Seville Cathedral required a security check—this was the first time we encountered security at a cathedral. It is the product of both Islamic and Christian religious arts. Columbus's tomb was brought back to Spain from Cuba in 1898 and is buried in the cathedral. It is carried by four knight statues representing Castile, León, Navarre, and Aragon, expressing the utmost respect for Columbus.
The Giralda Tower is also a highlight of the Seville Cathedral. Originally a minaret built during Moorish rule, it stands 98 meters high. Climbing the slightly steep ramp to the top offers panoramic views of Seville. Tickets for three cost 31 euros, using a student card, which included the tower climb. The Giralda, blending two styles, represents the intersection of Islamic and Christian civilizations. After climbing countless ramps and stairs, the effort was worth it—at the top we could see the whole city of Seville and the hazy outlines in the distance.
Lunchtime arrived. We crossed the Isabel II Bridge over the river to the Triana neighborhood on the opposite bank, which is full of bars and restaurants, offering a completely different character from the east bank. This is the birthplace of flamenco; on the west bank of the bridge there is a statue of what is believed to be the originator of flamenco. We randomly entered a corner restaurant and enjoyed a delicious lobster rice. With leftover bread, we strolled along the riverbank and fed pigeons on the street. The sun was warm on our skin—if you like wandering, the Triana neighborhood is the place to be.
That day we walked a lot. After about half an hour more, we arrived at the Plaza de España in Maria Luisa Park. We got there just before sunset, exactly when the light was changing. The colorful Plaza de España before us was picturesque; any snapshot looked like an oil painting. As we moved, we could see elegant arcades with crescent curves and small bridges over water, all bathed in the afterglow of the sunset. Of all the many Plaza de España across Spain, Seville's is the best. Of course, the ubiquitous vintage horse carriages were also impressive, with their clopping hooves giving a special sense of traveling back centuries. The sound of hooves and the smell of horse manure accompanied us everywhere.
In the evening, we tried to walk into a Chinese restaurant but were turned away, so we went to a nearby pizzeria. The three of us ordered a normal-sized pizza for 17 euros, which tasted good. In fact, the norm here is that each person orders their own normal size, while a family size is as large as a small round table.
Travel tip: It's advisable to book restaurants in advance in Spain. We failed several times with walk-ins in different cities.
December 27
Seville is in the southernmost part of Spain; today we were to fly to Barcelona in the north. The flight was at 2 PM, and checkout was at 11 AM. In the early morning, we wandered aimlessly through the old town's alleyways, soaking in the antique charm. We returned just in time for checkout, then dragged our luggage to a sidewalk café to have a coffee and wait for the afternoon—a rare and pleasant leisure.
Travel tip: Vueling Airlines is a low-cost airline based in Barcelona, Spain, and currently the second largest airline in Spain. When flying with a low-cost carrier, they strictly enforce carry-on luggage size. We bought 25 kg of checked baggage per person in advance; otherwise, they would charge extra for checked luggage at the airport, which is much more expensive than buying it in advance. Vueling opens check-in 7 days before the flight. Checking in at the airport might result in no seat due to overbooking, or you may have to pay extra for airport check-in. We booked our three tickets through Ctrip for RMB 3,378, plus a seat selection fee of 10 euros per person.
Barcelona has two terminals, T1 and T2, connected by a free shuttle bus that takes 10–15 minutes. We were at T1. We had researched several routes to the city center beforehand. Considering our luggage, taking a taxi for three people was more cost-effective. The taxi to our hotel cost €32 and took about 30 minutes.
Other options include: ① Airport bus (AeroBus) A1/A2 from the airport to Plaça de Catalunya: 30–35 minutes, single ticket €5.9 (cannot use T-Casual 10-trip ticket), every 15 minutes. ② Train (R2N) from the airport to Passeig de Gràcia: departs only from T2, 25 minutes, can use 10-trip ticket (T-Casual €11.35). From T2 direct to Passeig de Gràcia station (not the terminal). T1 has no train station; you need to take the free shuttle to T2 first. Frequency: every 30 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at self-service machines at the train station. ③ Metro L9: does not go directly to the city center; requires a transfer. It goes directly to Camp Nou (get off at Collblanc). Cannot use 10-trip ticket. Single ticket €5.15.
Most attractions in Barcelona are concentrated in the Eixample district (also called L'Eixample) and around the old city. Staying in Eixample is most recommended, especially around Plaça de Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia for convenience. Areas around Sagrada Família, Plaça Espanya, and Gràcia are also good choices. It is not recommended to stay in the old city, especially the southern end of Las Ramblas, where there are more pickpockets and it can be chaotic at night.
We stayed at the Catalonia Gràcia, a four-star hotel in the Gràcia neighborhood. It was conveniently located, and the friendly front desk clerk gave us detailed introductions to nearby restaurants and supermarkets. The only problem with the hotel was the poor internet connection.
In the evening, we chose a recommended Thai restaurant just a 5-minute walk from the hotel. The restaurant's roller shutter was still half-down, and the staff were slowly doing cleaning preparations. Impatiently, we asked, "Are you open yet?"
