A Spanish Family Reunion Trip during the 2023 Christmas Season - Barcelona, Where Art Is Everything

December 28

Barcelona's metro and bus system is unified under TMB, with tickets available at self-service vending machines in metro stations. The first time we bought tickets, we made a mistake. We purchased a T-Casual 10-trip ticket for €11.85, which is for single-person use, and then also bought an 8-trip family card for €10.50. During our days in Barcelona, we relied heavily on the metro and bus, using them quickly. Later, we bought another family card. This card can be used by multiple people together and is much cheaper than buying single tickets, since a single bus ticket costs €2.40. When boarding the metro or bus, you insert the card and it prints the usage record. Once the trips are used up, the card automatically becomes invalid. Metro tickets are zoned; you can buy a ticket for one zone or one covering multiple zones. But if you only plan to visit Park Güell, Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, and La Boqueria Market, one zone is sufficient.

Barcelona is Gaudí's city. Ticket prices are high, but there are passes available: GoCity All-Inclusive Pass (2 days €119, 3 days €149) or GoCity Explorer Pass (2 attractions €62, 3 attractions €84, 4 attractions €104). We bought individual tickets from each attraction's official website, confirming the entry time in advance.

The Sagrada Familia is the most worth-visiting attraction in Barcelona. It's highly recommended to buy tickets in advance. Ticket + audio guide: adults €26, students €24. The ticket includes an app guide. I visited Sagrada Familia ten years ago, but this time I listened carefully to the introduction of the three facades: Nativity Façade, Passion Façade, and Glory Façade. The church's exterior is extraordinary. Gaudí did something very disruptive—he brought what is usually inside the church to the outside. All the altarpieces, images, etc., are normally inside a cathedral; Gaudí moved them to the outer walls and created a Bible carved in stone.

Many online sources say it's better to visit Sagrada Familia in the afternoon because the light through the stained glass is beautiful. Actually, I think the morning light is already gorgeous. The windows facing sunrise use cool colors—blue and green—matching the colder early hours of the day. Then, as the sun progresses, the windows with red and orange light become warmer over time. This provides a very symbolic passage of time, changing as the day goes on. Sagrada Familia plays a loop of this beauty; I recommend stopping to enjoy it.

Finally, visit the Sagrada Familia Museum located under the south transept. It first displays photos and brief introductions from different periods of Sagrada Familia. Inside there is also a model workshop where you can see staff making church models through the glass wall. In Gaudí's time, there were no computers, but the church he designed is exceptionally complex. We can't help but admire his precise control of structural supports and forces. In fact, he had his own research and testing methods. One model shows how Gaudí used the structural function of parabolas to elegantly support the church's vault. The museum also displays candlesticks and furniture designed by Gaudí for church liturgies, as well as some small design elements.

As we walked out of the church toward the metro, we looked back at the unfinished facade. Even the gargoyles for drainage are vividly carved: frogs, lizards, and snakes clinging to the wall. Instead of being frightening, they transported us to an ancient world full of nature and innocence.

Taking the metro, we conveniently arrived at La Boqueria Market, the largest and richest market in Europe. I've heard its history dates back centuries. Back then, the market was very simple—just a few tables set up in the open air, selling mainly fish and meat, not as varied and complete as today. If you're a foodie, you won't be disappointed here. Fresh seafood, cheese, ham, drinks, cold beverages... Under the warm yellow lights, everything captivates gourmands' eyes and stomachs. This market is much larger than the Mercado de San Miguel we visited in Madrid. The arrangement of food and lighting makes the already dazzling goods shine, looking appetizing and even more aesthetically tempting. We spotted a seafood stall and the staff led us to a restaurant at the edge of the market. We took a break there and enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch.

Barcelona is Gaudí's city. Gaudí is known as "God's craftsman." Seventeen of his works are listed as national monuments in Spain, and seven are UNESCO World Heritage sites. His greatest characteristic is drawing inspiration from nature, and he believed curves are the most beautiful. There are almost no straight lines in his works; every line is full of vitality. The magnificent and fantastical architectural curves, both colorful and intriguing, make you want to indulge.

We first arrived at Casa Milà. The entire building has no sharp corners. The large wavy shape of the exterior and the strangely shaped chimneys and ventilation ducts on the roof give a sense of flow through time and space.

Finally, we came to Casa Batlló. A fairy-tale Gaudí building, dreamy like the sea. Many people come here, so you must buy tickets in advance. Even with a reserved ticket, you have to wait outside to enter, for about half an hour.

Both houses are very interesting in design, filled with imagination inside and out, featuring dreamlike curved lines and colors. We touched the handrails and sat on the beautiful ergonomic seats. We could only sigh like poor people: the rich indeed live a comfortable life! Not only is the living comfortable, but it also has artistic sense.

The souvenir shops at Casa Batlló and Casa Milà are worth visiting. All souvenirs use elements from Gaudí's designs—colorful tiles, the sea, window glass, etc.—and the various small items are exceptionally exquisite.

Following the bustling Passeig de Gràcia, we arrived at El Corte Inglés, a large Spanish department store chain in Plaça de Catalunya, hoping to buy some souvenirs. It was overcrowded. During these days strolling through Spanish commercial streets, we were amazed to find that there really are so many people in Spain!!!!

In the evening, we dined at a Japanese restaurant near the hotel. It was nothing special.

December 29

Early this morning, we encountered an embarrassing situation. We had planned to go to Park Güell. I had been there ten years ago; the vibrant scene at dusk, including the architecture and people, left a deep impression and was worth revisiting. Unexpectedly, when we arrived at the park, tickets were sold out. Who would have thought such a large park would have no tickets? I thought only indoor venues with limited space would impose capacity control. It was a pity, so we turned around and headed to our second stop. Remember to buy tickets in advance.

In Barcelona, there is a street that cuts through the city center, mixing a dazzling array of elements: historic buildings, a flower and bird market, street performances... The southern end of La Rambla leads to the Porta de la Pau (Peace Gate Square), with the Mediterranean Sea rippling before it. In the center of the square stands the majestic Columbus Monument. Built of dark red marble, the monument is 60 meters high, with two lines of text: "Glory to Columbus" and "Tribute to Columbus." At the middle of the monument are five flying goddesses. The base features eight large black lions and a seated statue of Queen Isabella of Spain. At the top stands Columbus holding a copy of Marco Polo's travels, pointing one finger toward the vast sea, his gaze piercing through the mist over the Mediterranean, looking east. In 1492, Columbus set sail. A year later, Columbus returned victorious with news of discovering the Spice Islands, and the King of Spain personally welcomed the returning navigational hero here. We carefully examined the carvings at the base of the monument depicting several historical moments, sighing at Columbus's life story.

The weather forecast said it would be cloudy, but at that moment, sunlight broke through the clouds and spilled onto the sea, making the masts of numerous yachts glisten. We sat on a bench by the sea, watching the cold waves rise gently and white birds glide down. I, who had started a video conference at 7 a.m. that day, slowly relaxed. After feeding the birds contentedly by the sea, we walked along La Rambla to the old Gothic Quarter. Street performers and vendors enlivened the whole street. Families, locals, and tourists were all enjoying the winter sun and holiday leisure. Even the most fast-paced minds would relax at such a time.

The best way to experience a city is on foot, which is now increasingly popular as city walk. The Gothic Quarter is an important part of Barcelona's old city and its heart. It was once a Roman village, so traces of its glorious past remain everywhere. Naturally, tourists cannot miss it.

Following the winding alleys of the Gothic Quarter, we arrived at the famous Plaça de Sant Jaume, where the Government of Catalonia and Barcelona City Hall are located. A few more steps brought us to Barcelona Cathedral, the center of the old city, radiating in all directions with a lively atmosphere. We enjoyed strolling, stopping, and looking, temporarily forgetting the attractions we planned to visit, lingering outside various small shops. Continuing north, we reached The Kiss of Freedom, a wall made of thousands of red and pink ceramic photos, each contributed by citizens through the internet. From afar, it looks like a couple kissing.

The old city was filled with festive atmosphere. Every corner might bring surprises: performances, juggling, specialty shops crowded with people. This made us, who are used to online shopping, quite envious.

Tonight was our last dinner in Spain. We had dined indoors for many days, but now we unanimously decided to eat outdoors like foreigners, experiencing the warmth of the nearby heater. Surrounded by cozy warmth, the delicious pizza and pasta did not disappoint us. As a family of three, we cherished these final moments together.

December 30, 2023

Time to say goodbye. Our daughter's flight back to the UK was at Terminal 2, departing a bit later. My husband and I were to fly from Terminal 1 to Frankfurt and then transfer to Shanghai. After checking out, we took a taxi together to the airport. Our daughter saw us through security first. We hugged and embraced. The next time we meet might be half a year later. Life is a journey; the most important thing is not to miss any wonders!

Tax refund at Barcelona Airport is very convenient. After entering Terminal 1, on the far left inside, you can see the tax refund point. Now the Spanish customs use machines to scan the barcode on your shopping tax refund form. Then go to Global Blue, give the staff the form, and tell them you want cash in euros! Shopping in Spain is very cost-effective because luxury brands have the same prices across Europe; the difference lies in the tax refund thresholds and rates of each country. Spain has the lowest tax refund threshold and the highest rate in Europe. Although we didn't buy any luxury brands, the tax refund money was enough to buy two bottles of wine at the airport on our way back.

The return flight had Wi-Fi, not very fast, but good enough for WeChat messaging.

Before the trip to Spain, I was curious about how these different religious elements could coexist harmoniously. During the trip, we couldn't help but marvel: it is precisely the complex history that allows us to see such a magical scene today. Even without reading history books (which some might find boring), when we step into Spain, we still feel it is quite different from other European countries. But this difference is not abrupt; it feels more like a fusion: the imprints of different cultures overlap, cover, assimilate, and finally form a new unique mark.

Tips for independent travel:

1. Schengen Visa

Previously, Spanish visa appointments were very difficult to get; I heard scalpers controlled them. Our daughter saw from Xiaohongshu that the Spanish visa system was being updated and kept an eye on it. Suddenly one day, she said the system was fine, and appointment dates were almost freely available. So we applied from China immediately. The system had just been upgraded and still had some bugs. I even emailed the information center, and they quickly replied that it didn't matter as long as there was a booking QR code.

Our daughter applied in the UK, which was more convenient. She got a visa with six months validity for multiple entries. My husband made the appointment one day slower than me, so the normal channel (€875) I chose was already full. He had to pay more for the premier channel (€1180) date. We submitted on the same day, but he was processed in a small hall while I was in the main hall. The visa became effective exactly on the day we arrived in Spain—not a day more. It had a validity of one and a half months for multiple entries, which was quite funny.

2. 15-day Overseas Data Package

There are several ways to get overseas data: one is to rent a portable Wi-Fi device, which our family used when going to Japan. The second is to buy a local SIM card and replace your card upon arrival. The third option we chose was China Mobile's 30-yuan daily unlimited data package. Since we traveled for 15 days, it was quite expensive per person. When I went to the UK in September, I used this method and it was very convenient—just turn on your phone upon arrival and use the internet. This time, China Mobile had a buy-one-get-one-free promotion. Since both my husband and I are China Mobile users, it was effectively half price. I recommend comparing options before purchasing.

3. Safety. Many people have seen online that pickpockets are rampant in Spain, with theft methods that are hard to prevent and varied. In Spain and even Europe, thieves know that Asian tourists, especially Chinese tourists, are very profitable! During our half-month trip, we witnessed several theft attempts. I recommend carrying a bag with a zipper, looking as cheap and low-key as possible. We also bought small waist pouches to store IDs, cash, and cards, keeping only a small amount of change in outer pockets.

4. Traveling by Train and Coach. Traveling by train is an excellent way to explore Spain, allowing you to relax and enjoy the scenery along the way. Spain has a well-developed railway network, the largest in Europe and second largest in the world. Spanish trains are modern and very clean. Ticket prices are quite high, but if you plan ahead and buy early, you can get discounted tickets. I compared Omio and Trainline's Spanish versions; both show train and bus prices and schedules and have apps for easy inquiry. All trains and coaches we took on this trip were punctual, with good conditions and comfortable seats. If driving yourself, consider two aspects: first, parking in old city areas is inconvenient, and roads are narrow with many restrictions; second, there are reports of parked cars being broken into, resulting in heavy losses.