A Mountain Hideaway 1 Hour from Hangzhou: Cloud-Gazing, Living with the Mountains

Find a mountain guesthouse, wake up to birdsong, go for a leisurely stroll in the hills, and spend the afternoon sipping tea while gazing at the mountains... Sound like your kind of getaway?

Has it been a while since you've traveled? With the pandemic, many of us haven't had a proper trip in ages. Right now, a road trip to a peaceful spot for a relaxing break is the perfect escape.

I recently spent a few days at a guesthouse in Tonglu, Zhejiang, and didn't want to leave. The mountain living was so utterly idyllic.

The guesthouse is called Xishan Shendu. This was my second stay there—last time it was high summer, this time late spring. I couldn't stop thinking about it, so off I went.

Getting to Xishan Shendu is very convenient: less than 100 km from Hangzhou and under 300 km from Shanghai. A relaxed afternoon drive and you'll arrive by early evening.

The mountain road to Xishan Shendu is lush and charming, a real pleasure to drive. The guesthouse feels worlds away. After parking your car, you walk across a suspension bridge and through a bamboo grove to reach it.

Its four buildings are tucked away among the hills. Were it not for the distinctive suspension bridge greeting you, you'd never guess a guesthouse was hidden in the mountains.

Cross the gently swaying bridge, and beneath a thatched roof you'll see the name: Xishan Shendu.

On the rough rammed-earth wall, the characters 'Shendu' feel so familiar.

It's been two years since I last stood here. Returning to a familiar place always brings a sense of how quickly time flies.

April in the hills: the woods are speckled with all kinds of tiny flowers, and the mountains before me are a patchwork of deep and light greens.

The sunshine is glorious. I take off my mask and breathe freely.

There's an infinity pool halfway up the hill, and I still remember the laughter echoing from it last summer.

A pristine pool, all to yourself, with the mountains around.

It's 20°C, not quite swimming weather, but the infinity pool creates a strong holiday vibe. Nestled among layers of green hills, this place exudes a secluded, paradise-like calm.

If you visit in summer, be sure to pack your swimsuit. I still treasure the memory of floating under the stars that night.

The guesthouse is beautifully designed, blending old and new in perfect harmony.

Behind the reception is a spacious common area. On sunny afternoons, there's nothing better than curling up on the sofa and chatting with the owner.

Xishan Shendu has just four buildings and 11 rooms, all decorated in a clean, white palette.

Most room names are taken from Fan Zhongyan’s poem 'Ten Scenes of Elegant Tonglu County,' capturing the mountain spirit: Mountain Mist, Cloud Void, Stone Spring, Bamboo Seclusion, Smile Above, Startling Rain, Relaxed Expression, Screening, Before Rain, Clear Pool, Birdsong... full of poetic charm.

The building farthest from the main one—and the quietest—retains two of its original walls.

The combination of preserved rammed-earth walls and modern construction creates a clever blend of craftsmanship and innovative design.

Xishan Shendu offers various room types; the loft rooms are perfect for families or small groups of friends.

There's also a very unique room, which I stayed in on my last visit.

During renovation, they discovered a huge boulder inside the room, so the designer kept it as is. Sleeping with a giant rock—if you're the adventurous type, does that appeal to you?

Daydream and cloud-watch, sip tea, read a book.

Even though the Fuchun River isn't far, once at Xishan Shendu, I hardly wanted to leave the guesthouse at all.

Cup of tea in hand, I watch the clouds drift by, close my eyes and listen to the gentle stream. Distant mountains in shades of blue-green, rolling layers of verdancy—Xishan Shendu sits here, untouched by worldly cares.

Time slows down here. For city dwellers, it's a place to find a little solace. I take a deep breath; the fresh mountain air softens my heart.

This is the season when bamboo shoots poke through the soil in the bamboo groves.

Grab a hoe and follow the guesthouse's young staff to dig for them. At first you spot only a few, but soon you realize they're everywhere—among the grass, under the rocks.

Look up, and the sunlight plays hide-and-seek through the bamboo. Birdsong is all around.

If you're lazy like me, you can have all your meals at Xishan Shendu—just remember to book in advance. Lunch was a fragrant bowl of beef noodles, and dinner a full spread, all cooked by the guesthouse chef.

After dinner, take a stroll along the mountain road to aid digestion. Listen to the chorus of insects, watch night slowly wrap the forest, and see the distant lights flicker on one by one.

That night I stayed in a room called Relaxed Expression, on the second floor. It was about 40 square metres, with white drapes I love and a sloping roof.

The bathroom was exceptionally spacious, with thoughtful details that only those who've slept here would truly appreciate.

Nights here are extraordinarily quiet.

On clear nights, the starry sky is visible to the naked eye. I thought about getting up in the middle of the night to take photos, but then—why bother? The bed was just too comfortable.

Spacious terraces, infinity pool, lawn barbecues... this guesthouse is simply perfect for small gatherings!

One day I happened upon a small outdoor wedding at the guesthouse. The natural décor, even the old rattan chairs, all blended so harmoniously.

My eyes were filled with all sorts of beauty.

I began thinking: next time, shall I invite some friends for a small get-together? Maybe a cheongsam party, a swimsuit party, or a white-dress party? The owner can tailor private events to your wishes.

I can already imagine an early-summer afternoon, all of us dressed in white, having afternoon tea. That would be wonderful.

The dessert bar from that outdoor wedding, set against Xishan Shendu’s old walls, was a perfect match of colours.

At night, you can barbecue under the stars, have a bonfire... simple, undisturbed joys.

Go spend a few days in the mountains! Here, you forget everything and simply soak in the green. In our busy world, sometimes you need a place like this to heal.

Address: Qinglongwu, Luci Village, Fuchun River Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou City, Zhejiang Province

For driving, search: Tonglu Xishan Shendu (please use Gaode Maps).

By high-speed train: alight at Tonglu Station, then it's about a 23 km taxi ride to Xishan Shendu.