That Year, I Admired the Autumn Colors Along Hangzhou’s Ancient Canal | A Practical Self-Driving Guide to the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Hangzhou | Winter Travel Guide to Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui | [2020

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That Year, I Admired the Autumn Colors Along the Ancient Canal in Hangzhou, Zhejiang | A Practical Self-Driving Guide to the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Hangzhou | Winter Travel Guide to Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui | [December 1, 2020] [Hangzhou Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal Chapter]

I spent two days exploring the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Hangzhou, Zhejiang: the thousand-year-old canal at Wulinmen, the historic Xiaohe Straight Street, the “Awaiting the Imperial Arrival” site, Maiyu Bridge Dock, Gongchen Bridge on the Grand Canal, Qinghefang Historical and Cultural Street, the Southern Song Study, and Longmen Ancient Town in Fuyang. [Hangzhou Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal Chapter]

Hangzhou, Zhejiang:

Hangzhou is the capital of Zhejiang Province, located on the southeast coast of China, in the lower reaches of the Qiantang River and at the southern end of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. With a history of over 2,200 years since it was established as a county during the Qin Dynasty, it once served as the capital of the Wuyue Kingdom and the Southern Song Dynasty, and is one of China’s Eight Ancient Capitals.

Since ancient times, there has been a saying: “Above there is heaven, below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou.” The “Hang” refers to Hangzhou, which has long been praised as a “paradise on earth” for its beautiful scenery.

Hangzhou is rich in cultural and historical sites, with West Lake and its surroundings boasting numerous natural and cultural relics. Distinctive local cultures include West Lake culture, Liangzhu culture, silk culture, and tea culture, as well as many enduring legends and stories that have become representative of Hangzhou’s cultural identity.

Memory: For someone from a coastal city like Qingdao, where the sea’s beauty might have been seen too often and lost some of its appeal, I always yearned for the varied scenery of Hangzhou. I was captivated by its long history, exquisite landscapes, and unforgettable cuisine. It tugged at me constantly, and the fantastic imagination of crossing through time finally compelled me to embark on this mysterious journey.

Time: December 14–15, 2020, two days in total.

People: A couple traveling together.

Mode: Self-guided tour.

Transport: Self-driving car.

Cost: Around 200 yuan per person (all-inclusive: fuel, tolls, meals, accommodation, entrance fees).

That year’s self-driving itinerary through Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui: Departing from Qingdao → Gaoyou, Jiangsu → Jiangyin, Jiangsu → Huzhou, Zhejiang → Hangzhou, Zhejiang → Jiangshan, Zhejiang → Quzhou, Zhejiang → Huangshan, Anhui → Yi County, Anhui → Xuancheng, Anhui → Nanjing, Jiangsu → Yangzhou, Jiangsu.

Before this trip, I knew very little about Hangzhou. Driving south from Huzhou toward Hangzhou, I was already intoxicated by the beautiful roadside scenery and every detail of West Lake. Thus began our Hangzhou journey.

This is the perfect place for couples to travel together, strolling hand in hand, and enjoying the vigorous yet graceful mountain and water landscapes crafted by nature. You can admire rolling peaks and lush foliage, savor Hangzhou cuisine, and walk along the roads beside West Lake at night, taking in the full panorama of Hangzhou’s charm.

I. The Origin of the Hangzhou Journey

Although I had visited Hangzhou several times before, each visit was hurried, so I never had the chance to explore the city in depth. For years, I dreamed of spending a month driving with my wife across Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui. After August this year, I made a detailed self-driving exploration plan. In early winter, we would head south to see West Lake, Xiang Lake, and Xixi Wetland in Hangzhou’s winter, breathe the city’s air, taste its food, and satisfy our wanderlust.

II. Preparations

With no obligations holding us back, it was time for a trip on a whim. As always, I prepared thoroughly: checking the weather at our destination and making a list of all necessary items.

III. Itinerary for the Self-Driving Trip to Hangzhou, Zhejiang:

Day 1: The thousand-year-old Grand Canal at Wulinmen → Xiaohe Straight Street Historic District → “Awaiting the Imperial Arrival” site on the ancient canal → Maiyu Bridge Dock → Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

Day 2: Qinghefang Historical and Cultural Street → Southern Song Study → Longmen Ancient Town in Fuyang

Self-Driving Route [Huzhou → Hangzhou]

Departure from Huzhou: 7:00 am, December 14, 2020

Arrival in Hangzhou: 9:00 am, December 14, 2020

Distance: 90 km, driving time: 2 hours.

About the Author: I am both a passionate independent traveler and an amateur photographer. Usually, I focus on landscape photography, and in my spare time, I love to roam around, visiting different places to capture their stunning scenery and local customs. As a photography enthusiast, I never miss any beautiful moment or person along the way; I believe those frozen instants will become all my memories. To see more of my photography and travelogues, you can follow my Ctrip travel notes: “Leyapai Travel Guide.” For any travel-related questions, feel free to leave me a message.

The Essence of a Self-Driving Tour in Hangzhou:

“It is only when you look down that you realize the road under your feet. No trace of wings remains in the sky, yet birds have flown.”

Day 1: Enjoying Hangzhou, Zhejiang

Renowned as “paradise on earth” for its beauty, Hangzhou is rich in cultural and historical sites. West Lake and its surroundings hold a wealth of natural and cultural relics, among which Beishan Street is one of the representative sites.

In this city long hailed as an earthly paradise, mountains, springs, lakes, bridges, pagodas, and temples are all present, and the colors in the landscape gradually diversify with time.

Amidst the bustling downtown, the modern vibe of Wulin Square intertwines with the ancient charm of Qinghefang, presenting the most authentic and memorable Hangzhou.

Paradise on Earth, Hangzhou

Day 1: Hangzhou Wulinmen Thousand-Year Ancient Canal [The boat ride from Wulinmen Dock costs only 3 yuan for the whole trip]

Wulinmen is adjacent to Taohua River on the West Ring Road, and looks out toward West Lake. Traces of the ancient city gate “Wulinmen,” one of Hangzhou’s ten great old city gates, can still be found. The scenic green belt along the ancient New River is charming. Wulinmen was the northern gate of Hangzhou with a history of over 1,300 years, originally built during the Sui Dynasty.

Since the Sui Dynasty, the area outside Wulinmen had long been a grand market connecting the northern and southern sections of China’s Grand Canal. In ancient times, the “North Gate Night Market” was one of Qiantang’s Eight Scenic Spots.

Wulinmen, one of Hangzhou’s ten major city gates, was first built in the Sui Dynasty. The greatest achievement of Emperor Yang of the Sui was completing the entire Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal (from Zhuojun, i.e., Beijing, to Hangzhou), which had been under construction since 486 BC, making it the longest manmade canal in the world.

The Grand Canal starts from Yuhang (present-day Hangzhou) in the south and extends to Zhuojun (present-day Beijing) in the north, passing through today’s Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong, and Hebei provinces, as well as Tianjin and Beijing municipalities. It connects the Haihe, Yellow, Huaihe, Yangtze, and Qiantang River systems, with its main water source being the Nansi Lake (Weishan Lake in Weishan County, Shandong). The total length of the Grand Canal is about 1,794 kilometers.

You can take a boat from Wulinmen Dock (the whole trip only costs three yuan) or stroll along the canal banks. Visitors from out of town can take Metro Line 1 to Wulinmen Square Station from Hangzhou East Railway Station or Chengzhan (the old Hangzhou Railway Station) and then head to the dock.

Water Bus on the Canal

Wulinmen Tourist Dock

The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal is the longest and largest ancient canal project in the world and one of the oldest canals still in use. Together with the Great Wall and the Karez wells, it is listed as one of the three great ancient engineering projects of China. Built by the laboring people of ancient China, it is a symbol of Chinese cultural heritage.

In 2002, the Grand Canal was incorporated into the eastern route of the South-to-North Water Diversion Project. On June 22, 2014, at the 38th session of the World Heritage Committee, the Grand Canal of China was inscribed on the World Heritage List, becoming China’s 46th World Heritage site.

Viewing the canal scenery from the boat

After a short boat ride of one stop to get a taste of the water bus, we disembarked and walked along the canal-side boardwalk to enjoy more scenery.

As we ambled along the river, layers of culture and history surrounded us. If you pay attention, you can spot ancient cultural traces of the Grand Canal here and there.

Names like “Midway Spring Blossoms,” “Moonlit Night at Jiacheng,” “Steep Gate Spring Flood,” “Drizzle on River Bridge,” “Misty Village at Baidang”... each place is infused with cultural flavor.

Traces of Thousand-Year Canal Culture

Day 1: “Awaiting the Imperial Arrival” on the Ancient Canal in Hangzhou [Free admission]

By the canal in Hangzhou, there is a Qianlong Arch where Emperor Qianlong landed during his southern inspection tours. Later generations erected a stone memorial archway here inscribed with “Awaiting the Imperial Arrival.”

The “Awaiting the Imperial Arrival” Archway

The Imperial Welcome Pavilion on the ancient canal

Day 1: Maiyu Bridge Dock on the Ancient Canal in Hangzhou [Free admission]

In Hangzhou’s alleyways, Maiyu Bridge was originally called “Guijin Bridge” in the Song Dynasty. At that time, it was a bustling northern downtown pier where rice shops and fish stalls gathered, and boats crowded together, hence the popular name “Maiyu Bridge” (meaning “fish-selling bridge”).

From Wulinmen to the Hushu area, it was traditionally a collecting and distributing center for freshwater fish from Hangzhou, Jiaxing, and Huzhou, giving rise to the saying “fish peddlers outside the hundred officials’ gate,” and Maiyu Bridge got its name from this. In the early Republic of China, Wulinmen was demolished due to road construction. To help later generations understand the city’s changes, a stele was erected at the original site.

In the third year of Emperor Hongwu’s reign during the Ming Dynasty (1370), a Five Sages Temple was built west of the bridge. During spring and autumn each year, operas were staged with great fanfare and excitement.

During the Republic of China period, a steamship dock was built on the north side of the bridge along the canal, making urban and rural trade even more prosperous.

To the east of Maiyu Bridge lies Jiangzhang Bridge, which spans the Grand Canal. Legend has it that in ancient times, the tidal bore of the Qiantang River could reach this far, giving the bridge its name.

In the old days, “Fishing Lights on Jiangzhang Bridge” was one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Hushu. According to “A Small Gazetteer of Hushu,” “Jiangzhang Bridge and Huaguang Bridge form a V-shape, and the river surface is extremely broad. Sometimes, with the soft evening rain, it is very poetic, and when night falls, the lights of crab-fishing boats and fishing lamps twinkle like scattered stars—this is called ‘Fishing Lights on the River Bridge,’ reflecting on the shore, it has a special charm.”

Lu You once left a poem about seeing off guests at Jiangzhang Bridge: “Chancing to drive a chicken cart to see off a guest, a thousand miles out of the city gate. Who would understand that in this quiet little market, the sound of well-wishing laughter surpasses all.”

Day 1: Hangzhou Xiaohe Straight Street Historic District [Free admission]

Xiaohe Straight Street Historical and Cultural Block is located in the northern part of Hangzhou, at the confluence of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, Xiaohe River, and Yuhangtang River.

Centered on Xiaohe Straight Street, the overall layout and spatial characteristics of the residential and shipping facilities along the canal and Xiaohe River are largely preserved, with a certain scale. Among Hangzhou’s historical and cultural blocks, this district counts as one of the better-preserved in overall traditional style.

Xiaohe Straight Street truly reflects the living environment of lower-class people along the canal during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. A number of historical buildings remain, and the architectural features, street patterns, and traces of canal shipping still retain a unique flavor.

The residences at Xiaohe Straight Street belong to the canal commercial port culture, maintaining a layout of one river flanked by two streets: shops on the ground floor facing the street, living quarters on the upper floor—a classic example of “shop below, home above.”

The folk customs museum and canal culture exhibition room in Xiaohe Straight Street, along with restored teahouses, restaurants, and other shops, have turned it into a special tourism zone along the canal.

Visitors can arrive by boat at the street’s small dock and explore the local culture here, or drive to the area and wander through its lanes and alleys.

Xiaohe Straight Street Historic District

Folk guesthouses at Xiaohe Straight Street

Day 1: Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Hangzhou [Free admission]

Gongchen Bridge lies to the north of Daguan Bridge in Hangzhou. It connects Lishui Road and Taizhou Road to the east, and Qiaonong Street and Xiaohe Road to the west. It is the tallest and longest stone arch bridge among Hangzhou’s ancient bridges.

Gongchen Bridge spans the Grand Canal from east to west and serves as the endpoint marker of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Hangzhou.

Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

The bridge is 98 meters long and 16 meters high. The central part of the deck is slightly narrower at 5.9 meters wide, while the approaches at both ends are 12.2 meters wide. It is a three-arch thin-pier humpback bridge with a clear span of 11.9 meters for the side arches and 15.8 meters for the central arch. The arch stones are 30 centimeters thick, with a span-to-thickness ratio of 1/52.7 and 1/39.7; the central pier is about 1 meter thick, roughly 1/15.8 of the large arch span. The eyebrow stones are 20 centimeters thick. The bridge uses a timber pile foundation structure, and the arches are built in longitudinal sections laid side by side.

Gongchen Bridge was first built in the fourth year of Emperor Chongzhen’s reign during the Ming Dynasty, when the candidate scholar Zhu Huafeng raised funds to construct it.

In the eighth year of Emperor Shunzhi’s reign in the Qing Dynasty, the bridge collapsed. In the fifty-third year of Emperor Kangxi’s reign, Chief Secretary Duan Zhixi advocated and donated money for its reconstruction, and the monk Hui Lu from Linyun Temple raised funds tirelessly. After four years, the current Gongchen Bridge was completed.

Gongchen Bridge is the largest stone arch bridge in downtown Hangzhou and is also a landmark structure of the Gongchen Bridge area.

Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

Scenery at Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

This bridge marks the end of the ancient canal in Hangzhou. When a wanderer far from home catches sight of the familiar little bridge in his hometown, feelings of relief and emotion always surge.

The significance of Gongchen Bridge to Hangzhou is special. Long ago, when Hangzhou natives returned home, they could not help but feel comforted and thrilled upon seeing this old bridge.

Scenery at Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

Today, after several restorations, the ancient bridge is still used by pedestrians. Walk up the steep bridge deck and gaze down the long canal. Gongchen Bridge is like a connecting point, tethering the entire soaring dragon to the land of Hangzhou. Inside is home, roots; outside lies a world of adventure.

Crossing Gongchen Bridge, you arrive at the Qiaoxi Historical Block [Free admission]

Qiaoxi Historical Block

Near Gongchen Bridge, there are now fan, knife, and umbrella museums, as well as the Grand Canal Museum, providing convenient access to canal culture.

Qiaoxi Historical Block – Tongxin Town

Qiaoxi Historical Block – Qiaonong Street

Qiaoxi Historical Block

East side scenery of Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal [Free admission]

East side scenery of Gongchen Bridge on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal

The district government building by the Grand Canal

The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal Museum

Day 2: Hangzhou Qinghefang Historical and Cultural Street [Free admission]

Qinghefang Historical and Cultural Characteristic Block is located in the southern scenic area at the foot of Wushan Hill, only a few hundred meters from West Lake, covering an area of 13.66 hectares. As the only well-preserved old city quarter in Hangzhou, Qinghefang Historical Block is a microcosm of the city’s long history.

Qinghefang has been Hangzhou's prosperous district since ancient times. Situated in the old city of Shangcheng District, it boasts a rich heritage of historical and cultural relics and profound cultural significance.

To the east of Xingong Bridge on Hefang Street lie the ruins of Deshou Palace, the residence of Emperor Gaozong of the Southern Song Dynasty. During that era, the residence of Zhang Jun, who was granted the title Prince of Qinghe, was located on the then Imperial Alley (Taiping Lane), and the whole area thus became known as Qinghefang.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, shops, restaurants, and teahouses filled Qinghefang, making it the political and cultural center of Hangzhou and a gathering place for merchants.

Through the Yuan, Ming, Qing, and Republic of China eras up to the early years after liberation, this area remained a bustling commercial hub of Hangzhou.

Time-honored brands like Wangxingji, Zhang Xiaoquan, Wanlong Ham Store, Huqingyutang, Fanghuichuntang, Yezhongdetang, Baohetang, Zhuangyuanguan, Wangrunxing, Yiyuan Gold Shop, Jingyangguan, and Yangtang Restaurant are concentrated here.

Qinghefang at Night

The Southern Song Imperial Town at Night

Happy Hangzhou residents

Appetizing dinner

The Catholic church at night

Hefang Street at night

Day 2: Hangzhou Southern Song Study [Free admission]

The Southern Song Study in Hangzhou was personally designed by Wang Shu, winner of the Pritzker Architecture Prize, often called the Nobel Prize of architecture. Its architectural style blends the ancient and modern seamlessly.

Day 2: Longmen Ancient Town in Fuyang, Hangzhou [Entrance fee required]

Longmen Ancient Town sits on the southern bank of the Fuchun River, 52 kilometers southwest of Hangzhou. It is a national first-level scenic spot along the “Fuchun River – Xin’an River – Qiandao Lake” tourism route, with convenient access via National Highway 320. According to legend, it is the ancestral home of Sun Quan of the Three Kingdoms.

Nestled at the foot of Longmen Mountain by the Fuchun River, Longmen Ancient Town is about 16 kilometers from Fuyang. It is surrounded by mountains on all sides, with Dati Mountain dominating the west, Longmen Mountain rising in the southeast, and the Shanxi and Longmen creeks converging north of the town. Praising the area, Yan Ziling of the Eastern Han Dynasty once said, “The clear waters and verdant hills here surpass even the Longmen of Lüliang,” and the town was thus named Longmen.

Longmen Ancient Town is famous for its unique architectural complexes from the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is one of the best-preserved mountainous ancient towns with Ming-Qing architecture in the Jiangnan region.

Longmen Mountain, with an elevation of 1,067 meters, stands here with overlapping peaks and ever-changing views, making it the crown of Fuyang’s mountains.

When famous Eastern Han scholar Yan Ziling visited Longmen and saw its extraordinary topography, he exclaimed, “The clear waters and verdant hills here are even better than the Longmen of Lüliang,” thus giving the town its name.

In recent years, Longmen Ancient Town has preserved and restored ancient dwellings and halls, and launched extensive environmental improvement campaigns. The combination of beautiful natural scenery and the town’s quaint elegance has become its trademark. In 2019, Longmen Ancient Town was honored as one of Zhejiang Province’s Tourism Style Towns.

Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the town has Dati Mountain in the west, Longmen Mountain in the southeast, and the Shanxi and Longmen creeks meeting in the north. “The clear waters and verdant hills here surpass even the Longmen of Lüliang,” Yan Ziling marveled, and the name stuck.

Sipping a bowl of town-made rice wine

Longmen Ancient Town Square

Longmen Ancient Town Visitor Center

Sun Quan’s Ancestral Home – Longmen Ancient Town

Long, deep lanes and secluded courtyards form the basic units of Longmen. Hundreds of Ming and Qing dwellings are closely packed in the town, linked by a network of cobblestone paths that resembles a maze.

This might be the intentional unfathomable depth created by the Sun clan, whose warlike heritage from the Eastern Wu kingdom was woven into everyday life as a defensive consciousness. A grand defensive layout is hidden within the bones of the Sun family.

Yet at the end of those deep lanes, the quiet residences reveal a different world, where daily life unfolds in vivid colors—fuel, rice, oil, salt, sweet, sour, bitter, spicy—making existence richly seasoned.