Carefree Tonglu: From Sky to Underground – A Laid-Back Weekend near Shanghai, Jiangsu & Zhejiang

After living in Hangzhou for years, I’ve had my fill of the gentle West Lake and the sprawling Xixi wetlands. Instead, I find myself longing more and more for Tonglu, a beautiful little town. Here, drifting clouds and fleeting moments seem to fill every mountain and stream, each brick and tile telling its own story.

“From Fuyang to Tonglu, a hundred li of extraordinary mountains and waters, peerless under heaven.”

Tonglu sits right at the midpoint of this spring-fed river, and a carefree spirit is its very essence.

Carefree Tonglu, where a river of spring paints both banks, embraces the Fuchun landscape with unparalleled beauty. It is hailed as the “City of Chinese Painting” and is the real-life setting for the famous scroll *Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains*.

Tonglu was founded in 225 AD, giving it nearly 1,800 years of history. It was named after the legendary herbalist Tongjun, who built a thatched cottage here to concoct elixirs, and it became widely known because of the Eastern Han recluse Yan Ziling, who lived in seclusion here. Over the centuries, Tonglu’s lovely mountains and waters have inspired celebrated lines from Li Bai, Wei Zhuang, Fan Zhongyan, Su Dongpo, Lu You, Mao Zedong, and Yu Dafu. In particular, Fan Zhongyan’s phrase “carefree Tonglu” has become its signature.

Situated in the golden triangle of the “Three Rivers and Two Lakes,” Tonglu has been famed since ancient times for its “verdant mountains, crystal waters, long history, and serene environment.” Whether it’s the dramatic Chuiyun Tongtian River or the picturesque Langshi Jintan, the scenery of green hills and clear waters and the tranquil pace of life here envelop you in a feeling of peace – the simple comfort of curling kitchen smoke.

At the tail end of April, while spring is at its loveliest, come with me to explore Tonglu.

**Chuiyun Tongtian River: Soar High and Dive Deep as You Like**

From Hangzhou, it’s about a one-and-a-half-hour drive straight to the destination – Chuiyun Tongtian River Scenic Area in Tonglu – kicking off a refreshing, mind-and-lung-clearing journey. The ten-li underground river gets its name because its source is covered by a vast underground forest; only after leaving the forest do you see the sky, hence “Chuiyun Tongtian River” (Cloud-Hanging River Reaching the Sky).

Locals say that since the Sui and Tang dynasties, visitors have been exploring this underground wonder. In the first year of the Zhenguan reign (627 AD) of the Tang dynasty, the county magistrate Liu Wenhui personally inscribed “Chuiyun Historic Site” on the cave entrance’s rock face. The Ming dynasty poet Yang Hong wrote: “In summer’s heat, one forgets the scorching; in winter, a visit feels like spring. Though the stream flows from the same source, only Chuiyun is pure and clear,” capturing the sheer pleasure of touring the Chuiyun Tongtian River area.

Upon entering the scenic area, you’ll soon spot the glass bridge in the distance. The mountains are deep green, the woods dense and tranquil, and the midday sunlight falls on this lush carpet so quietly that you seem to hear only the rustle of leaves in the breeze.

360° sky glass bridge plus a boat ride through the karst cave, dreamy light shows, Insta-worthy swings, angel wings, romantic bird’s nests… There are so many photo spots here!

**Boating on the Underground River, Admiring Stalactite Wonders**

The heart of Chuiyun Tongtian River is a karst underground river, 4.5 kilometers long, known as the “Ten-li Long River.” The water and cave area covers 128,000 square meters, and about 1,000 meters of the river are navigable by boat. Inside, stalactites hang low, forming a typical karst landscape shaped by crustal movements and volcanic eruptions hundreds of millions of years ago.

On the winding, sometimes wide, sometimes narrow channel, a few boats bob gently, and with the soft sound of oars, your boat drifts downstream, embarking on a magical journey through a stone wonderland.

As soon as you enter the cave, the sudden temperature drop will make your hairs stand on end – it’s incredibly refreshing! After you adjust, continue the boat ride. The boatwomen will enthusiastically explain the karst formations while rowing, and you’ll need to duck and weave now and then to avoid bumping your head. Occasionally, a natural drop of cave water might fall from above and splash onto your forehead, giving an unexpected cool shock. In summer especially, the cave is damp and cool, and with its constant 18°C temperature, it’s considered a perfect summer retreat. It’s also praised today as “the Number One Underground River.”

Inside, the cave is illuminated with colorful lights, making the dark underground river glow in a rainbow of hues. Look closely, and every formation seems to take on a thousand postures, full of quirky charm.

The stalactites vary endlessly: they can resemble lofty mountains, lotus basins, bamboo shoots, or pillars; they can be majestic or delicate, like scenes from classical poetry or historical dramas. You’ll see rocks shaped like the legendary Dongshi imitating a frown, the Bodhisattva Guanyin bestowing a child, Zhu Bajie looking into a mirror, a crocodile, the tattered hat of the monk Jigong, and the natural slit known as “One-Line Sky,” among others.

The underground river is crystal clear, with bizarre rock columns lining the banks reflecting in the water. Under the multicolored lights, they glitter brilliantly, making you marvel at this “hidden paradise” – a fairy-tale world so exquisite and enchanting.

Next, sailing along the underground river and passing through Kunlong Gorge and Guanyin Cave, you’ll arrive at a spot named “Natural Map of China.” Here, terraced-like formations spread out in orderly layers, a testament to nature’s incredible artistry.

Overhead, a blue projection twinkles with brilliant starry lights, crystalline and serene, beautiful and peaceful, just like Van Gogh’s *Starry Night*, whispering a whole romance.

A school of blue jellyfish, from far to near, trails glowing ribbons, undulating and dancing like butterflies in the air, as if the starry sky is confiding the secrets of twinkling.

Stones of different colors seem to collide, and as your boat moves, the view shifts, as if you’re slowly swimming through the deep sea, making you wonder if you’ve entered a rainbow tunnel.

Further on, at the end of the route, you’ll see what’s called the world’s first cave elevator, which lifts the boat – and you – from the first-level underground river to the second-level waterway 8 meters above. It’s thrilling!

A tiny boat, a journey full of splendid sights – from verdant hills and clear waters to the stone forest in the dark river, from a starry seabed to a time tunnel. Sometimes the path is secluded and deep, sometimes it opens wide. You’ll only understand the romance and wonder here when you come~

**Glass Skywalk: Walking on Clouds**

After exiting the underground river, a short walk takes you directly to the glass skywalk. But before heading up, don’t miss the Insta-famous photo spots along the way.

You’ve probably heard of the viral Angel Wings that took the world by storm. Well, Chuiyun Tongtian River has its own version, designed by the famous Los Angeles-based designer Colette Miller and completed on-site, similar to the Angel Wings at the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building.

Step forward, strike your favorite pose – looking up at the sky, pensively lowering your gaze, or twirling your skirt. On camera, you’ll have angel wings, soaring romantically above the mountain forest and clouds, like a fairy.

Get closer for a side shot, and using a clever angle, you can snap a photo with the viral wings. I felt like I was about to take off in joy!

Ahead is the “Lingyun Sky Bridge,” a glass bridge over 300 meters long and about 150 meters above the ground. It took four years of design, testing, and construction, perfectly blending modern engineering with natural scenery.

Walking on it, you’re suspended high in the air with a vast, open view. The distant layered mountains and rugged cliffs unfold before you, and all the forest beauty is at your feet. Lingering on the glass walkway, you can delight in the sensation of walking among clouds, and if you’re lucky, you might have a close encounter with a sea of clouds.

A gentle breeze slips through the thin clouds, winding through the lush greenery, caressing the green mountains and trees. In this quiet, lofty, grand, and peaceful scenic spot, every day seems light and carefree~

Looking down from the bridge, the glass has such high transparency that you feel like you’re walking on air, giving a sense of treading on air. A casual glance at the glass water slide snaking down the side will make you gasp involuntarily.

Underfoot is a hundred-meter drop; in front, the ethereal mountain scenery unfolds – green hills, clear water, blue sky, and white clouds, all in one sweeping view. On Lingyun Sky Bridge, you sit opposite the mountains and waters, with the sky high and wide, enjoying a pure delight all your own.

**Glass Water Slide**

As you wander through Chuiyun Tongtian River, you’ll be captivated by the natural beauty and interactive experiences. After leaving the glass bridge and walking a short distance, before you’ve completely recovered from the thrill, you’ll see the high-altitude, suspended water slide called “Sky Glide,” a glass water chute suspended up high. It’s arguably the most exhilarating attraction in the whole area – and the one I was most looking forward to.

The slide is over 1,350 meters long with a total drop of over 120 meters, channeling the naturally clear Tongtian River water into a transparent glass chute. Put on a raincoat, get into the raft, and you’ll glide through the forest, rushing downstream. Greenery surrounds you, accompanied by the whoosh of wind, the gurgle of water, the splashing waves, and the excited shrieks of others. The thrill is self-explanatory.

If you’re afraid of this thrilling tree-flanked ride, don’t worry; you can simply walk down the wooden plank path alongside. It’ll take about ten minutes to reach the bottom.

**Chuiyun Shouting Spring and Insta-Bird’s Nests**

I thought I’d be soaked after the rafting, but the two-piece raincoat, which even wrapped around my shoes, was a lifesaver. After the descent, I was still clean and ready to keep taking photos!

If you think the adventure ends here, you’re quite mistaken. After the slide, walk a little further and you can pose in the Insta-famous bird’s nests for photos.

Three bird’s nests of different shapes are scattered among the woods, intertwined with vines to form cute little nooks. Once you sit down, you won’t want to leave. And the photos turn out great – snap a quick shot and you have an instant Instagram-worthy picture~

You don’t need to strike elaborate poses; just sitting there gives you beautiful photos. A little flick of the hair, a simple side profile, or a back view, and you’ll look like a fairy.

A few steps ahead, you’ll hear lively shouts. Come closer and you’ll realize it’s the Chuiyun Shouting Spring.

This fun attraction is for all ages. Visitors simply need to shout or sing, and the fountain in the pool will shoot up. The louder your voice, the higher the fountain goes!

Amidst the towering mountains, as long as you have a strong voice, you can make the fountain spray at will. The more people join in, the higher it soars, nearly touching the clouds, and kids never tire of screaming with delight.

**Tips for Chuiyun Tongtian River:**

1. Address: Donglin Village, Yaolin Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province

2. Transportation: Driving is recommended. Alternatively, from Hangzhou city center, go to Hangzhou West Bus Station and take a bus to Qiandao Lake or Fenshui; buy a ticket to “Tongtian River” station. From Tonglu county town, go to Fuqiaobu Station and take a bus to Fenshui, getting off at “Chuiyun Tongtian River” station.

3. Tickets: Regular ticket: 98 RMB; Family ticket: 138 RMB for one adult + one child / 198 RMB for two adults + one child.

4. Opening hours: Peak season 08:00–16:30 (last admission 16:30); Off-season 08:00–16:00 (last admission 16:00)

5. Other tips:

(1) Recommended route: underground river boat tour to see stalactites → glass skywalk → glass water slide → Shouting Spring → bird’s nests → head home.

(2) The underground section has two options: boating on the underground river, and hiking through the Grand Canyon (additional fee for the Grand Canyon).

(3) During pandemic times, please book in advance via the WeChat official account “最美桐庐县” (the latest post has the QR code).

**Langshi Jintan: Bamboo Rafting Adds Poetic Charm**

With extra time on the weekend, my friend and I visited the nearby Langshi Jintan. Langshi Jintan is in Langshi Village, Tonglu County, Hangzhou, just a 10-minute drive from Chuiyun Tongtian River. Also known as “Tide-Reversing Beach,” it gets its name “Jintan” (Golden Beach) from the natural pebble beach that glitters golden in the sun. It was formed by the ancient Qiantang River tide surging here. Covering over a thousand acres, it boasts beautiful natural scenery, surrounded by layers of green peaks and crystal-clear water, simply enchanting.

The beauty of Tonglu lies in its verdant mountains and clear waters. The mountains are majestic and bold, and the waters are famously serene and graceful. If you’re lucky enough to try bamboo rafting at Jin Tan, it’s like stumbling into a secret landscape, awe-inspiring.

We made a reservation in advance. Since it was morning, Langshi Jintan had few visitors yet. Occasionally, one or two tourists would pass by, then stop to rest, lazily basking in the sun. With tree shadows all around, the dappled sunlight added a touch of poetry.

Legend has it that when Emperor Guangwu of Han (Liu Xiu) was pursued by Wang Mang, he fled here in desperation. A large white-necked bird appeared and guided him into a temple, saving his life. Later, the emperor ordered the temple to be rebuilt and renamed it “Longyin Hall” (Dragon’s Hideaway).

Further inside is Liu Xiu’s shrine. Next to it, the bright yet simple horse-head walls, steeped in the patina of time, quietly await visitors.

The further you go, the more your heart fills with joy. The fresh breeze through green trees, the gentle wind carrying the fragrance of flowers and herbs, and the trickling stream underfoot all blend into a living poem, a tranquil pastoral painting.

A viral photo spot from Douyin: come and see which body type you match!

Lush green lawns, dancing leaves. Passing by a particularly exquisite pavilion, it seems at every unexpected corner you might encounter a wall covered with climbing vines.

Walking further, you’ll find a variety of leisure and entertainment facilities, including barbecues, camping, traditional clay stoves, outdoor adventure, and a water park – everything is well-equipped.

A line of poetry goes, “Where the Qiantang River ends, Tonglu begins – the waters green, the mountains verdant, beyond a painter’s art.” It perfectly captures the intoxicating beauty of Langshi Jintan!

Follow the path past the picnic area, and you can enjoy a bamboo rafting trip on the river ahead.

Drifting on the picturesque Tianmu River (amidst the peak forests), you pass layered hills, the river water gently rippling. Evergreen woods line the banks, and beneath you is the emerald, clear water. Gliding on the green waves feels like traveling through a painting.

While there are few people, snap a couple of portraits when getting on and off the bamboo raft. Leisurely immersed in this landscape of clear streams and majestic banks, the broad shoals and continuous greenery naturally bring a soothing sensation~

Looking up, under the deep blue sky, Tonglu’s landscape – every blade of grass, every tree, every stream and stone – is all ancient, green, naturally cool, like a breathing paradise on earth.

**Langshi Jintan Tips**

1. Address: Langshi Village, Hengcun Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province

2. Transportation: It’s a 10-minute drive from Chuiyun Tongtian River, so you can easily stop by.

3. Opening hours: 08:00–16:30

4. Tickets: Online booking for Langshi Jintan entry + rafting: 60 RMB/person; entry only: 40 RMB/person.

**Tonglu Travel Tips**

**1. About Tonglu**

Tonglu, under the jurisdiction of Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, lies along the middle reaches of the Qiantang River, with the Fuchun River traversing the county. It boasts a long history and rich cultural heritage, earning the reputation of “a land of outstanding natural beauty and cultured elegance.” The Northern Song statesman Fan Zhongyan, marveling at its wondrous mountains and rivers, praised it as “carefree Tonglu.”

Tonglu has been famed since ancient times for its “verdant mountains, crystal waters, long history, and serene environment,” and known as “peerless for its extraordinary mountains and waters.” The city is clean and fresh with tree-lined streets, while the countryside features white-washed walls and black-tiled roofs, harmonious and cozy. You can hear birdsong everywhere and always smell the fragrance of flowers – it is a city of beautiful landscapes.

**2. Transportation to Tonglu**

The most convenient way to get to Tonglu is by car, which can take you directly to the scenic spots. Driving from Shanghai to Chuiyun Tongtian River takes about three and a half hours; from Hangzhou, it’s about one and a half hours. Parking is available along the roads near the scenic areas.

- From Shanghai, Jiangsu, Ningbo, Shaoxing, Taizhou: Take the Changshen Expressway (Hangzhou-Xin’anjiang-Jingdezhen section, exit at Tonglu) → Provincial Road 05 → Provincial Road 16 → enter the scenic area.

- From Wenzhou, Quzhou, Jiangxi, Lishui: Take Changshen Expressway → Hangzhou-Xin’anjiang-Jingdezhen section, exit at Fuchunjiang toward Fenshui → National Highway 320 → Provincial Road 16 → enter the scenic area.

- From Huangshan: Hangzhou-Huizhou Expressway (exit at Yuqian toward Fenshui) → Fenshui (toward Tonglu) → Provincial Road 16 → enter the scenic area.

**3. Accommodation**

Tonglu has plenty of lodging options. For a two-day trip, I recommend staying overnight to try some local farmhouse dishes and experience the leisurely rural life. Staying near the scenic areas makes getting around easier. There are both guesthouses and hotels – just pick according to your needs.

**4. Food**

Tonglu is a land of fish and rice, making good use of its local mountains and waters. The cuisine here leans towards farmhouse style, with fresh, natural ingredients. In April, it’s the perfect season for bamboo shoots – we ordered the local green bamboo shoots with cured pork, incredibly fresh. The stir-fried chicken boasted great color, aroma, and taste, perfect with rice~ The stone-ground tofu was fragrant and delicious, a real treat for us after a hungry day.

Dish after dish of Tonglu’s specialties, from field to table, were simply superb.