Fuyang's Longmen Ancient Town | The Hustle and Bustle of Life, Hidden in Every Lane and Village

When it comes to Fuyang, what people know most is the Fuchun River that runs through the city, and the 660-year-old masterwork "Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains" by the great Yuan Dynasty painter Huang Gongwang, which depicts a pure land and sanctuary in the hearts of the world. "Peach blossoms bloom like brocade in March, and fishing boats come and go on the spring river" – this was the beautiful scene of his hometown penned by the famous writer Yu Dafu half a century ago. The Fuyang beloved by so many literati always revolves around the Fuchun River, but this time I wanted to take a less-trodden path and go deep into the most lively ancient towns and villages.

Longmen Ancient Town sits at the foot of Longmen Mountain on the banks of the Fuchun River. It is the largest ancient village cluster in Jiangnan, about 16 kilometers from Fuyang. The town is surrounded by mountains: the massive Datou Mountain perches in the west, Longmen Mountain rises in the southeast, and the Shanxi River and Longmen Stream converge north of town. "With hills and waters so fair, it rivals Longmen of Lüliang," the unique geography creates a special natural scenery. The Eastern Han hermit Yan Ziling once visited Longmen Mountain and marveled at it, giving the town its name. Before this, I knew little about Longmen Ancient Town beyond the fact that it's the hometown of Sun Quan; everything else came from scattered online information. This time, walking into it, I could truly feel it.

Coming before the May Day holiday, there were very few people – just a handful of visitors scattered about – and no admission fee. It felt completely different from past trips, so peaceful and quiet.

Right at the entrance you can see stone-built houses, and many corners have no trace of commercialism; it's very natural. There are plenty of ancient towns in Jiangnan, but this one stands out especially because it is the hometown of Sun Quan. Over a thousand years ago, Sun Quan's descendants migrated from Bengzi Bay to settle at the foot of Longmen Mountain and have lived here ever since. Fuyang's highest peak, Longmen Mountain, rises steep and majestic, its forests lush, its springs and maple groves serene. When the Eastern Han nobleman Yan Ziling came to visit, he couldn't help but sigh: "The scenery here is as fair as the Longmen of Lüliang," and thus the name Longmen was born.

The most famous snack in Longmen Ancient Town is Longmen gluten, sold in many eateries. The skin is pleasantly chewy, stuffed with meat and bamboo shoots – really delicious.

From the entrance, there is only one path into Longmen Ancient Town. At the T-junction, you arrive here. The late April sun is warm but not too hot; I love this kind of weather, perfect for a leisurely, comfortable walk.

"Niu Ba Wan" – "Eight Bowls of Beef" – as the name suggests, eight dishes are all made with beef. It includes spiced beef bones, long-simmered beef brisket, clear oxtail soup, silky shredded beef, flash-fried tripe with garlic shoots, crystal beef tendons, sticky beef hoof, and a rich beef broth. In the past people said about Longmen Ancient Town, "Here you can taste the Three Kingdoms," because it is a town themed around Sun Quan culture. But when it comes to food, "Eight Bowls of Beef" has now become a culinary hallmark of Longmen Ancient Town.

On many old walls, beautiful hand-painted murals have been added. A once rustic ancient town is slowly becoming tidier, more lovely.

The afternoon sun at two or three o'clock was a bit strong, but I couldn't resist taking photo after photo – the reflections in the water were simply too beautiful.

The old street bathed in golden sunlight was breathtaking. That late-spring, early-summer evening truly lived up to the phrase "the April days of this world." All that is beautiful seemed to be right here.

Turning a street corner, you suddenly meet someone walking past. You exchange a friendly "Hello, have you eaten yet?" – words I used to hear long ago are still everyday greetings here, brimming with the flavor of ordinary life. People sit by their doorways eating, with no worry about dust or disturbance.

The common sight of someone daydreaming at their doorstep – for city dwellers, the biggest wish is to be able to spend every day just as leisurely.

I particularly love this cluster of houses – so quiet and beautiful, like something out of a TV series. In recent years, films such as "Exiled University," "The Book and the Sword," and "Who's the Third Party?" have all shot exterior scenes in Longmen Village.

It really is quiet and lovely here. If you want to see the best scenery, be sure to venture deeper inside; the further in you go, the more you see the beautiful face of an authentic old town.

This dog was absolutely adorable. It followed me all the way to the town entrance, stopping and starting, occasionally glancing back – so endearing.

I have visited many ancient towns before and always felt they looked more or less the same. But in Longmen I saw a different kind of charm. A few people here and there, an occasionally passing cat or dog – everything is so relaxed and at ease. Life here really is very slow, in a contented, carefree way.

A small river winds around the ancient town, where people come to wash clothes and mops. Locals say the water has always been clean; they've lived here for decades and still maintain this way of life. You can't experience such simple beauty in the city; you have to come to these kinds of places to truly feel it.

Around six in the evening, all is very quiet. With almost no tourists, the ancient town relaxes back into its original appearance. Stone-paved paths, locals passing by occasionally, a small shop selling children's toys, rice wine stalls, snack stands – everything gradually quiets down.

The Longmen Stream that runs through the village has nourished this thousand-year-old town. Villagers built their homes along its banks, living close to the water. The folk customs are simple and honest, neighbors harmonious and warm, and the tradition of farming and study has been passed down for generations. Old houses line the stream in an orderly yet staggered fashion, high and low, giving a pleasing sense of rhythm. Unlike other ancient towns, no shops have ever been built on either bank here, neatly rejecting the worldliness and clutter of commerce.

By chance, I stumbled upon a hall called Baozhong Hall, where tie-dyed artworks were displayed – stunning. Almost no visitors came here, so I could quietly admire them. Artistic creation always delivers a unique experience.

Some travel tips:

Transport: ① By car from Hangzhou, take the southern route of National Highway 320 towards Tonglu, pass Zhongbu Bridge Toll Station, go 100 meters ahead and take the slip road; continue 8 km to Longmen. ② To reach Longmen Ancient Town, first take a bus to Fuyang, then transfer to a shuttle to the scenic area. From Fuyang's West Bus Station there are direct buses to Longmen Ancient Town, 5.5 yuan per person, about half an hour's ride. (Most buses from Hangzhou to Fuyang stop at the new Fuyang bus station; you can first take bus No. 3 from the new station to the West Station, then transfer to the scenic area bus.)

Admission: 60 yuan.

Changlu Town is located in the far southeastern part of Fuyang District, bordering Louta Town of Xiaoshan to the east, and Yingdianjie Town and Ciwu Town of Zhuji to the south. It sits in the "Golden Triangle" where two cities and three districts meet. Provincial Highway 307 runs through the town; 15 kilometers northwest or northeast along the highway lead to two charming towns – Longmen Ancient Town and Xiaoshan Heshang Town. This isn't a well-known tourist destination, but it has its own distinctive flavor. It is also the hometown of the scholar Zhang Taiyan, rich in cultural heritage.

Crossing a small bridge, I entered Dachang Village of Changlu Town. The first person I met was someone riding an e-scooter to fetch water. It was the first time I had seen a communal water collection point. People were washing clothes by the small river; in the lanes, elderly folks strolled leisurely. Every back view radiated a sense of deep peace.

Changlu Town is a provincial-level old revolutionary base. According to locals, it mainly features a red tourism route, including sites like the Queweiling Blocking Battle, the two meetings of the New Fourth Army in Changlu, the former site of the Jiangnan County Party Committee, the former residence of Jiang Zhong, the tomb of martyr Jiang Zhong, and the Yaokou Sub-district Committee. Few people know about these places; usually only organized tour groups come here. It's only photography enthusiasts like us who seek out spots to capture distinctive human-interest photos.

Many houses have been renovated and refreshed in the Huizhou architectural style, looking fresh and clean on a fine day. Right as you enter the village, you see the Hanwen Tai Gate site. After a fire, it was turned into a common area for villagers to hang laundry and dry goods.

The village is very clean and tidy. Walls have been specially painted with murals, making the place feel more lively and interesting.

Dachang Village still retains quite a few well-preserved old mansions. The wooden structures are decorated with beautifully carved patterns, each piece like a work of art.

The people living in the village, when they have free time, do handwork at home to earn a little extra income. Perhaps the curtains you use have tassels made by one of them.

I especially love places like this – quiet and full of life, not a scenic spot set up for anyone, not deliberately trying to please tourists. It remains just as it always was, a place brimming with the warmth of everyday life.

The interplay of old and new houses – I still prefer the village's old houses, which carry more of a sense of age and distinct character.

Dachang Village is quite large; if you want to stroll every corner, it takes about an hour. Split by the river, looking across from one bank to the other is truly beautiful, like an ink-wash painting: white walls, dark tiles, and entire bamboo groves climbing the hills – stunning.

Along the streets there are a few small shops where locals buy daily necessities. There's no commercial atmosphere at all. It's perfect for a weekend outing or for photography lovers to sketch fresh inspiration.

Countryside landscapes have changed a lot. Driving here, you'll find it peaceful, the air fresh – the overall feeling is wonderful. "Away from the city's noise and pollution, leaving behind the mind's restlessness and worries, you settle into a haven of tranquility and leisure that belongs to no one else but you." Most villagers here are descendants of Huizhou merchant Hu, with a long history and deep cultural roots. The village boasts two historical figures: the great filial son Hu Qian and the calligrapher-seal engraver Hu Zhen.

Elders chat leisurely in small groups by their doorways. All my impressions here are about tranquility and ease. The villagers are kind, simple, and hospitable – you can see it clearly. Sit down and chat with them about the village today, and they will tell you the whole story, from its beginning to the present.

This is the Hu Zhen Memorial Hall. Covering over 3,600 square meters, with a building area of more than 700 square meters, the surroundings are serene and lovely: a small bridge over a murmuring stream, ornamental fish swimming freely, calligraphy by Bao Xianlun, and nine large seals displaying works by the Eight Masters of Xiling and Hu Zhen's seal cutting. On the first floor there are six seal-cutting culture display rooms and a filial piety culture exhibition hall. On the second floor is a seal-cutting training base. Here you can fully experience Zhujiawu Village's two cultural highlights – filial piety and seal cutting.

Hu Zhen was a celebrated seal cutter and collector in Fuyang during the late Qing Dynasty. His first courtesy name was Tingxiang or Tingxiang, later changed to Bokong; he also styled himself Hubi Hermit, Fuchun Ridge Master, and others. Born in the 22nd year of Jiaqing (1817) in a literary family in what is now Zhujiawu Village, Huanshan Township, he later lived in Shanghai and died far from home at the age of 46. There are not many historical records about Hu Zhen, but his anecdotes reveal a strongly individualistic and stylish personality. With a well-off family background, he never chased fame or profit, but devoted himself to the arts, passionately pursuing epigraphy and landscape, dedicating his life to seal cutting. He was equally famous as Qian Song, one of the Eight Masters of Xiling, in seal circles. His surviving masterpieces include "Joint Seal Collection of Qian Shugai and Hubi Hermit" and "Seal Collection of Hubi Hermit," making him one of the founders of the Zhejiang school of seal cutting. In recent years, to commemorate this artist and actively promote seal cutting culture, local people spent a great deal of money to build the Hu Zhen Memorial Hall, which has successively become a seal cutting base for the Xiling Seal Society and Fuchun Seal Society.

The cultural wall reflects Zhujiawu Village's unique character. 300 meters from the village entrance stand the Villagers' Committee and the Hu Clan Ancestral Hall. The Village Grand Stage is the center of cultural activities, and right next to it stands a camphor tree over 500 years old.

A whole expanse of white walls and black tiles in Huizhou architectural style came into view. Walking up to the main gate, I looked up and saw the four large characters carved in bluestone: "Hu Clan Ancestral Hall." At this point, you might wonder: here in Fuyang, why a Huizhou-style building? It all has to do with the "origins" of the Fuchun Hu clan. According to the "Record of the Fuchun Hu Clan Ancestral Hall," "the Fuchun Hu clan has long resided in Wuyuan." The ancestors of the Hu clan were originally from Wuyuan. Wuyuan, a place famous for rapeseed flowers in Jiangxi, doesn't immediately suggest a Huizhou connection. In fact, today's Wuyuan historically belonged to Huizhou and was once under Anhui's jurisdiction, which is why the Hu Clan Ancestral Hall we see is a typical Huizhou-style building.

The Hu Clan Ancestral Hall, also known as "Baoxun Hall," was first built during the Jiaqing reign of the Qing Dynasty. It was destroyed by war in the second year of Tongzhi and reconstructed during the Guangxu period. In 2007, due to aging walls and other issues, the Hu family descendants undertook a major renovation. An ancestral hall records a clan's glory and traditions; the honest, simple family values and strong clan culture nurtured outstanding figures such as the filial son Hu Qian and the great seal cutter Hu Zhen. Their unremitting efforts and pursuit of life established the Hu clan's cornerstone as a respected family in Fuchun.

Walking into the hall, you see couplets and inscribed plaques by famous calligraphers everywhere. In the center of the main hall hangs a high golden plaque with the words "Wei Tang Fu Gui" (Fragrant Osmanthus of Wei Hall), personally written for Hu Ning when he retired as the Attendant Gentleman of Xiangguo during the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty, echoing the two ancient osmanthus trees in the courtyard – simple, elegant, and graceful. On the right, a plaque reading "Qin Bao Chun Xiao" (Imperially Commended Pure Filial Piety) was bestowed by the Qianlong Emperor in honor of Hu Qian's filial virtue. On the left, the plaque "Guo Hua Jia Qing" (Nation's Flower, Family's Celebration) is a surviving calligraphic treasure from Dong Gao, the son of Dong Bangda and also a Grand Secretary. In the center of the main hall, there is a stage with two doors reading "Leave as a General" and "Enter as a Prime Minister." These are both dramatic conventions and life goals the Hu clan has pursued for centuries, inspiring generation after generation to strive ceaselessly. Behind the stage, on the spirit screen facing the ancestral hall's main entrance, hangs a wooden plaque inscribed with "Instructions of the Hu Clan" – concise, profound, and philosophically rich.

A remote mountain path – if not for a friend bringing me here, I would never have known such a place existed. It's an exceptionally natural ancient trail called the Stone Steps Trail. As the name suggests, it's a mountain stream formed by natural rocks piled up like a staircase. Looking down from the hill, a few scattered houses in the distance themselves become part of the scenery.

Following the stone steps upward, the path is actually an earthy track, very natural. Bamboo groves shade both sides. The deeper you go, the more secluded the valley, the clearer the water, and the rarer the human footprints.

Fuyang has plenty of natural landscapes, and the Shangguan Township hiking trail is one of them. No tourists – only local residents taking after-dinner strolls. Wildflowers and berries grow along the roadside; the natural scenery is beautiful.

You can follow the hiking trail all the way to the mountaintop. This is also a favorite spot for many hiking enthusiasts.

Dashan Temple Reservoir is one of Fuyang's many reservoirs. It's a bit off the beaten path, perfectly combinable with the Shangguan Township hiking trail mentioned above. Follow the trail over the hill and you'll reach the reservoir. I have visited many mountain villages, but Dashan Temple Reservoir is a place I really like: no tourists, a perfect place to walk quietly and breathe the fresh air.

After parking the car by the roadside, you can walk up along the path. Green hills, clear waters, bamboo seas, wildflowers blooming by the path – the scenery is delightful.

Shangguan Township is known as "China's Hometown of Rackets." The racket industry here started in the 1970s. Today there are several hundred enterprises of various kinds, producing nearly 100 million rackets annually, which are exported to over seventy countries and regions.

This feels a lot like the silk museum in Hangzhou. The lobby on the first floor is beautifully decorated.

On the second-floor exhibition hall, the history, highlights, and technical evolution of the racket industry are all presented in detail.

For foodies, meeting great food is like meeting love. In this romantic late-spring, almost-summer season, traveling is wonderful, but good food shouldn't be missed. Here are some authentic Fuyang delicacies found in streets and lanes: Sun Quan Gluten – a favorite of every household. When I wrote about Longmen Ancient Town earlier, I specially described it. Longmen Beef Stew – savory with a touch of spice; Longmen's most famous "Eight Bowls of Beef" were also detailed above. Changlu Tender Tofu – a melt-in-the-mouth texture, the most praised dish in Changlu.

Passing through villages, as the car drove deep into a bamboo grove, this grand Jiangnan mansion came into view. At first glance, it’s a Huizhou-style building. Entering through the main gate and walking along a quiet path, the guesthouse reveals itself. The location is somewhat remote, very suitable for a weekend stay or a getaway.

The street lamps are very distinctive, and the hall's combination of wooden structure and glass is also eye-catching.

At the foot of the mountain, hidden deep in the bamboo forest – a tranquil and beautiful scene. Listening to birdsong, feeling the gentle breeze – it's deeply comfortable.

On a fine day, your mood brightens mysteriously. The wall tops look even better paired with blue sky and white clouds.

Pushing open the wooden door, the richly classic architecture greets you, as if you've traveled back to an ancient capital. If you mistake this building for a Huizhou-style old house with a century of history, you'd be wrong. It was once just a vegetable patch. The owner spent a full three years to build this Huizhou-style mansion from scratch. The antique main hall is a space for tea, chess, reading, and playing the zither – anything that helps you relax and sweep away the worries of work.

This time I stayed on the second floor of the guesthouse. The wooden stairs reminded me of my grandmother's house from childhood; you had to take off your shoes to go up. The guesthouse embraces a retro style, with all furniture and decor in Chinese fashion. The rooms are simple yet elegant, embodying the traditional Chinese interior design that blends dignity and grace, emphasizing simplicity, modesty, and refinement. Every item in the room has been carefully chosen by the owner – completely matching my aesthetic preferences.

The small room is a tea room, very secluded and peaceful. I absolutely love this quiet, leisurely way of living.

The headboard gave me such a fond feeling – vintage yet cozy. Everything radiates a sense of calm.

Changlü Mountain Lodge is located in Changchun Village, Changlü Town. It blends the rural landscape of Changchun Village and is a microcosm of ancient architectural culture. In this place where historic buildings and modern decoration merge, you can not only see the ever-green bamboo sea in spring, but also admire various azalea blossoms. In high summer, walk under the bamboo shade and feel the refreshing coolness. In autumn, the sunlight is warm and tranquil, fruits are heavy on the branches, and the fields turn golden. In winter, you experience a simple, serene Jiangnan winter scene.