Off-the-Beaten-Path Hangzhou: A 48-Hour Self-Drive to Lin'an for a Cool Summer Escape at Longmen Secret Land

June feels like a fairyland, captivating and enchanting. Boundless green forests, rolling and surging. Boundless thousand-green hues, myriad purple and blue light. June, the scenery is mesmerizing, willows stand tall, the stream glistens. Midsummer always brings dreams to fulfill: climbing mountains, watching waters, feeling nature’s charm—that’s a long-cherished wish for many. To dwell by the mountains, to live by the water, where mountains and waters merge. Standing in such a season, there’s always a sense of vibrancy and excitement. Lin’an, less than a two-hour drive from Hangzhou, is a perfect summer retreat.

Taihuyuan, known as the Little Jiuzhaigou of Jiangnan, feels like a paradise, with clear streams murmuring, surrounded by green trees, a natural oxygen bar.

The thousand-year-old maple trees in Zhinan Village are lush and verdant, their green leaves dressing up the entire summer.

Shizi Mountain in Longmen Secret Land stands proudly nearby.

The Ming and Qing dynasty residences in Zhinan Village, with white walls, black tiles, and horse-head walls, are captivating examples of Huizhou-style architecture.

The beautiful Taihuyuan, the Little Jiuzhaigou of Jiangnan, a natural oxygen bar with fresh air.

Starting from Hangzhou, the drive to Lin’an takes less than two hours. Heading into the forest, along winding roads flanked by lush greenery and with streams trickling beside the road. There is none of the city clamor, just an added tranquility. Driving slowly, it feels like entering a paradise, with fresh air. As the car gradually enters the embrace of the trees, the scenery grows ever more beautiful. We were deeply moved by the roadside views, frequently stopping to take it all in, because the mountain beauty dazzled our eyes and tugged at our hearts. So our journey became a free-spirited romance, a pure feeling of nature’s beauty.

Finally, we arrived at the first stop: Taihuyuan. There is ample parking at the entrance. By the time we got there it was nearly noon, so we decided to eat first before entering the scenic area. We parked at the entrance and had lunch at a restaurant called Jiangnan Courtyard right across the street. We ordered a few local specialties: the small creek fish were fried to a fragrant crisp, the freshwater shrimp were flavorful, and the goose meat was my favorite. Goose is a well-known local dish here, rich in flavor, though the meat is not as tender as duck; it has a bit of chew.

Coincidentally, just as we were heading to eat, we encountered the newly launched bus service from Hangzhou East Railway Station to Taihuyuan. A few aunties got off; we asked and they said they had come to try the bus in the morning. A round trip plus entrance ticket costs 98 yuan, more convenient and cheaper than driving yourself. The route passes several scenic spots along the way. If you don’t have a car, this bus is the most cost-effective option.

After lunch, we entered the scenic area. Known as Hangzhou’s Little Jiuzhaigou, it’s a summer retreat. Walking into Taihuyuan, the air is fresh; it’s a natural oxygen bar. This is where the famous basketball star Yao Ming had his wedding photos taken. Right after the entrance, you can see the cloud-top glass bridge, nearly 200 meters high. Passing by red lanterns, we came to a platform, also a social media hotspot with purple wisteria petals.

Walking up the wooden stairs, the bridge sways as you step on it. Looking around, the mountains stretch in undulating waves. Standing in the middle of the bridge, the views on both sides are stunning. Taking advantage of the weekend in the shady forest, breathing the fresh natural air, basking in the sun, and relaxing the mind—how delightful to be in such a beautiful, lush forest.

This transparent glass bridge, nearly 200 meters above the ground, is a must-visit photo spot. A gentle breeze blows as you walk on it, feeling the sway, which can be frightening. The entire floor is transparent glass, making it sheer madness for those afraid of heights. I saw some tourists walking slowly, their legs shaking. You can also overlook the iconic ‘source’ character stone of Taihuyuan below. Yet, when you reach the middle of the bridge and look out, the mountain ranges, green shade, and fresh air create a beautiful landscape painting together with the stream flowing below and the bridge with people.

Due to the pandemic, the Lin’an Culture and Tourism Bureau launched a promotion. Through their official platform ‘Code Travel Lin’an’, you can not only book guesthouses at half price, but each room also comes with two ‘Moshang Huakai Lin’an Cultural Tourism Cards’, which grant free entry to all paid scenic spots in Lin’an. Seeing this offer, I booked a guesthouse in advance on ‘Code Travel Lin’an’.

After booking, you don’t need to go to the guesthouse to get the card first. With the phone number used for booking and the guest’s ID number, a verification code is sent back to generate an electronic version of the Lin’an Cultural Tourism Card linked to the ID, so at the scenic spots you just need to swipe your ID! True enough, when we entered Taihuyuan, we used the card and got in within 20 seconds, just by swiping the ID. The entrance fee was waived—so convenient, it felt like we’d hit the jackpot.

After crossing the glass bridge, we took another path down to Siyuan Corridor, where Yao Ming and his wife planted a love tree during their wedding photo shoot. It has become another photo spot, with lovely surroundings. At Yunbi Pond, kids and families were playing on a water boat-like feature; in the summer heat, this is a refreshing spot.

Walking back, by the stream, the character ‘source’ we had seen from the glass bridge appeared right before our eyes; it’s the iconic character of the scenic area. The stream gurgles, crystal clear. On the hundred-foot cliff, the calligrapher Guo Zhongxuan inscribed ‘Longxu Wall’, and the cliffs are covered with many long beard grasses. Many tourists come here to check in, attracted not only by the clear stream and beautiful environment but also because it’s a great place to get close to nature, especially in summer, when it becomes a cool summer retreat.

Zhinan Village, the Most Beautiful Thousand-Year-Old Ancient Village, Like a Beautiful Landscape Painting

When the car slowly wound its way up the mountain road to Zhinan Village, known as one of the most beautiful ancient villages in East China, we stood on the viewing platform by the flower field at the village entrance. Gazing out, the green, undulating mountains stretched endlessly before us. Over 500 mu of terraced fields showcased their contours, forming a splendid rural scroll with the bamboo forests and green mountains in the distance. Zhinan Village sits atop the mountain; below lies a large memorial archway. The mountain road to the village is full of twists and turns, with enchanting scenery all the way, like a paradise.

Walking from the village entrance to the edge of Tianchi (Heavenly Pond), flowers and plants were everywhere, and greenery filled the view. A few children ran happily, faces brimming with joy. The village buildings looked different from ordinary rural houses—well-decorated with white walls and tidy, unified planning. The paths were clean. We walked to the pond called Tianchi; the buildings around it looked very new, surrounded by large trees.

Willow trees by Tianchi are full of delicate branches, drooping gracefully and dancing in the wind. Their reflections move with them, like a maiden dressing before a mirror or a fairy with fluttering sleeves. Villagers leisurely played cards by the pond—what a pleasant afternoon. Every household here lives as if in a villa. In autumn, the village is packed with tourists because there are over 300 ancient trees, many of them maples. When the maple leaves turn red, it’s the most beautiful season. Just imagine how stunning it is.

Along the path by Tianchi, we reached the most famous thousand-year-old maple trees. The ancient village of Zhinan boasts ‘Seven Antiquities’ (ancient surnames, pond, trees, ancestral hall, temple, residence, and tombs). The first thing we wanted to see most was the thousand-year-old trees. In your hometown, you might rarely see trees over a thousand years old, perhaps only a few. But here, there are more than 300 trees over 500 years old, some over 700, some over 1,000—a remarkably rare concentration. Villagers have protected these ancient trees well; for generations, they have lived with them, inseparable.

One maple, called ‘Golden Turtle Descends to Earth’, is over 700 years old. It has a huge maple burl on the tree; looking up, it resembles a toad climbing the tree; looking down, a turtle descending. Truly amazing. It was the first ancient tree I’d ever seen. Even more magical was the group of four connected maple trees behind, each over a thousand years old. From the ground, they appear separate, but their trunks join higher up. Their leaves are lush and have thrived for centuries.

Nearby, there’s an ancient well named ‘Rippling Ancient Well’. In the past, during a once-in-a-century drought, villagers relied on this well to survive. Underground spring water has been gushing out continuously to this day.

At the Seven Antiquities Square of Most Remembered Old South Village, white walls, black tiles, and tall horse-head walls—typical Huizhou-style architecture—appeared before us. The white houses with black tiles and horse-head walls among the mountains and waters, along with the ancient trees, form a landscape painting. Red lanterns, exquisite wood carvings, delicate openwork—every piece is a visual delight. It immerses you in the Ming and Qing architecture and makes you reluctant to leave.

Under blue skies and white clouds, the ancient houses of Zhinan Village open to an exhibition hall displaying local cultural customs, folk traditions, local cuisine, and beautiful photos of the village across different seasons.

Strolling along the shady, lovely village lanes to the highest viewing platform, we were surrounded by lush greenery all the way. At the hilltop pavilion, a popular spot for visitors and villagers to take a walk or relax after meals, the view stretched over endless mountains in the distance and the winding terraced fields close by, creating a gorgeous picture. If you visit the village, I recommend coming here to take in the entire village at a glance; it’s breathtaking.

If you want to catch every photo spot, I suggest picking up a free map at the village entrance’s visitor service center. Scan the QR code with your phone, and you can see the whole village on your mobile screen, plus access voice-guided tours of Zhinan Village. Very convenient, so you won’t miss any must-see spot.

In the evening, there was a performance at the village stage. Entertainment for locals is quite rich, with not only frequent shows but also performances based on local customs. If you happen to be there when a show is on, I suggest you stop and quietly listen to the wonderful songs of this thousand-year-old village. In autumn, this is the most beautiful place, with golden rice paddies, yellow ginkgo leaves, and red maple leaves, so visiting Zhinan Village in autumn will definitely not disappoint.

Don’t Miss the Local Specialties of Zhinan Village

We often say that on a trip, the unmissable things are food and scenery. When visiting a place, don’t miss its local specialties. The most famous dish here is what locals call the ‘Eighteen Bowls’ feast. After touring the entire village in the evening, the only thing left was tasting the food, so we had dinner right in the village. Speaking of the eighteen-bowl dishes, they are the village’s signature. We chose a restaurant with an excellent view, overlooking the terraced fields. Soon, the dishes arrived. The first one was unlike anything I’d seen: a whole duck soup, slow-cooked with cured pork and local dried bamboo shoots. The duck meat was tender and flavorful.

Local cured pork, cut thick, slightly salty, with that distinctive cured aroma wafting up. Small creek fish, tender and fresh. Green pastries, each with its own taste. The duck soup was reheated at the table, steaming hot. A bowl of duck soup in the chilly mountain evening warmed us right up.

In the evening, we drove to Longshang Village, arriving around eight. The guesthouse was booked in advance on ‘Code Travel Lin’an’. Once booked, an SMS was sent, and at check-in we simply swiped our ID and showed the booking message—very convenient. My guesthouse, Long Shang Xing, is located right beside the road at the village entrance. The lobby is a renovated old house, with a tall bookshelf filled with books and porcelain.

The guesthouse has three buildings, built into the mountain. The innermost building features an infinity pool; swimming there in summer is especially pleasant. The rooms are surrounded by blooming flowers, with beautiful views. It’s quiet at night, and the beds are comfortable. In the morning, we woke to birdsong. Across from the main building, there are wooden cabins also belonging to the guesthouse, set amidst trees and bamboo—peaceful and secluded.

The guesthouse also sells local specialties, such as various secret-recipe sauces, honey, and more. Buying some specialties here to give to family and friends is a good choice. At night, it was so cool we didn’t need the air conditioning—truly a summer retreat worthy of its name.

Tianshitan in Longmen Secret Land: Exploring the 100-Million-Year Boulder Field

‘Longmen Secret Land’ is one of the key model rural scenic areas developed by Lin’an. It consists of three administrative villages: Shimen, Longshang, and Dashan in Gaohong Town. Shimen Ancient Village has well-preserved Ming and Qing Huizhou architecture; Longshang Village features the steep cliffs of Shizi Mountain soaring into the clouds; and Dashan Village is home to the glacial relic Tianshitan (Heavenly Stone Beach), a spectacular sight, along with well-protected golden larch conservation bases and thousand-mu ancient terraced fields. After breakfast, we drove to the first stop in Longmen Secret Land: Tianshitan.

Tianshitan stretches about 1,580 meters, from the foot of the mountain to the peak, scattered with stones of various sizes. These stones look ordinary, yet they are different—they date back over 100 million years. Their scale is immense, unique in East China, and truly spectacular.

Long ago, a folk legend says that when villagers needed stones to build houses and bridges, a deity secretly drove a herd of pigs from heaven at night to help. But when the pigs arrived, a villager spotted them and cried out upon seeing so many pigs of different sizes. Because someone violated a celestial law, the pigs instantly turned into stones.

The Thousand-Year Dashan Terraced Fields: Riding a Mini Train Through the Countryside

The car wound up the mountain road with its many twists. Finally, we reached the top. From a viewing platform, the Dashan terraced fields unfolded before us, rows upon rows planted with various crops. In autumn, they will become a sea of golden rapeseed flowers; in summer, it’s a sea of green. Under blue skies and white clouds, it was heart-opening and uplifting.

On the other side of the terraces, there’s a mini train for visitors. I hopped on my beloved little train and set off through the fields. The driver started it up, and the train even whistled. Riding to the other end of the fields, the cute little engine looked adorable. If you bring kids, I’m sure they’ll love it. Along the pastoral path, wildflowers bloomed—truly a dream field. The scent of the earth drifted by, and everywhere you looked were tender green seedlings, letting you soak in the rural atmosphere.

Saturday Beer Festival: Nighttime Revelry in the Mountains

Every Saturday, there’s a beer festival. Not far downhill from my guesthouse, a container-built beer street has been set up. If you happen to be here on a Saturday, I suggest you join the festival in the evening, have a drink, and let loose. The containers are painted red, with many tables for visitors. Flowers bloom on the lawn. In this quiet mountain village, the night turns lively. Enjoying the natural breeze, sipping a beer, soaking in the atmosphere—so carefree and pleasant.

Nearby, some cute vending carts sell drinks, snacks, ice cream, and more.

The area is also known as a climbing town; climbing spots can be seen everywhere. Longshang Village has murals about climbing, and there’s even water climbing. Right opposite, the rocky peak is the most famous climbing site, attracting enthusiasts from home and abroad.

The opposite Shizi Peak is an excellent climbing spot. Spanish climbers once came here to take on challenging high-difficulty climbs.

Long Shang Xing Cuisine: Satisfying the Taste Buds

Lunch was at the Long Shang Xing guesthouse. Most guesthouses here have restaurants for guests. Living off the mountains, the most celebrated ingredient is dried bamboo shoots, and goose is a must-try dish. The goose was delicious, with tender yet slightly chewy meat. The salt-baked potatoes and braised pork (appearing fatty but not greasy) were also favorites of mine, perfect with rice.

Lin’an is rich in bamboo shoots, so you’ll see them at almost every meal. The fresh fish head soup was also wonderfully flavorful.

Wandering Shimen Ancient Street: Experiencing the Charm of a Post-Station Distribution Center

With white walls, black tiles, and tall horse-head walls, the quaint Shimen Ancient Street is bustling with vendors and city folks drawn here. People stroll along, tasting freshly made snacks like youdun (fried dough balls), popcorn, frozen rice sugar, and sesame slices. Before leaving, they still pick up some tofu, ma ci (glutinous rice cakes), pasture-raised pork, and other nostalgic New Year goods.

Shimen Ancient Street, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, was a mountain post-station distribution hub on the ancient Hangzhou-Huizhou and Hangzhou-Suzhou routes in northern Lin’an. The old street was a gathering place for merchants, lined with shops selling mountain goods, tea, inns, eateries, wineries, pharmacies, tofu shops, blacksmiths, and more, most operating as front-shop, back-workshop setups. In the past, at this time of year, mountain folk from all around would come here to buy New Year supplies. The street is adorned with various murals.

Stepping into the memorial hall, we saw relics left from earlier times and listened to touching stories.

Beautiful moments are fleeting. Lin’an, less than two hours from Hangzhou, let me experience a different kind of rural beauty. Taihuyuan, the Little Jiuzhaigou of Jiangnan, felt like paradise, with fresh air, bathing in a natural oxygen bar. The thousand-year-old trees in Zhinan Village are unforgettable; I imagine the village in autumn with red maple leaves, that scene etched in my heart. In Longmen Secret Land, the hundred-year-old villages, thousand-year terraced fields, ten-thousand-year cliffs, and hundred-million-year boulder field make it a perfect summer retreat. These beautiful Lin’an landscapes remain in my heart, and I know that when I return, there will be new surprises.