Summer Retreat by the Fuchun River: Stealing Days of Leisure in Tonglu's Landscape Painting

Summer Retreat by the Fuchun River: Stealing Days of Leisure in Tonglu's Landscape Painting

📍 Hangzhou · 👁 3 reads · ❤️ 28 likes

In midsummer July, after several rainstorms, the sun over Hangzhou has returned to its intense summer heat. Not a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind, only a scorching sun hanging overhead. The leaves outside the window droop listlessly, even the cicadas' calls are languid and feeble. The dazzling sunlight makes one feel restless. Then, why not wander amidst nature for a few days? Travel upstream along the Qiantang River, pass Fuyang, and you'll reach Tonglu.

Where the Qiantang River ends lies Tonglu, with waters so blue and mountains so green that no painting can compare. Cloudy mountains loom vast, the river flows grandly, the Fuchun River and Fenshui River converge here. Known as 'China's Painting City', Tonglu in Zhejiang was founded during the Three Kingdoms Eastern Wu period, boasting over 1,800 years of history and a pivotal role in Chinese cultural history. The famous hermit Yan Ziling, a classmate of Emperor Guangwu of Han, built a hut here to spend his remaining years. Literary figures from Li Bai, Wang Wei, Meng Haoran to Bai Juyi left behind over three thousand poems praising the scenery of Fuchun. By the Fuchun River, Huang Gongwang created the renowned painting 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains'. My first impression of Tonglu came from the text 'Letter to Zhu Yuansi' in my second year of junior high: 'The windswept mists are gone, mountains and sky share one hue. Drifting with the current, letting it take me east or west. From Fuyang to Tonglu, a hundred li or so, with wondrous mountains and waters unparalleled in the world.'

The Fuchun River is named after Fuchun Mountain. The Fuchun River scenic belt is one of China's three great landscape belts, with scenic spots dotting both banks, where the mountains and waters are poems and paintings. Driving over an hour from Hangzhou, we arrive at our destination: Tonglu's Cloud-Suspended Tongtian River scenic area. Dense forests covering dozens of square kilometers block out the sun, and vast amounts of forest surface water cascade along winding natural riverbeds of varying heights, flowing straight up from the entrance of the Cloud Cave to the heavens, hence the name Tongtian River (Heaven-Connecting River).

Activity 1: Boating on the Underground River, Viewing the Jade Pool Fairyland

Compared to nearby Yaolin in Tonglu, the Cloud-Suspended Tongtian River offers a different charm: you must take a small boat drifting through the deep, magnificent cave before entering the underground grand canyon.

The cave is typical karst landscape, with an underground river stretching a kilometer, just wide enough for a boat to pass.

The boat departs as soon as it's full, and the boatman both poles and explains. The underground cave is like a cool world far from the mortal realm. Boating there, moist and refreshing mist hits your face, making it a cure for the summer heat that surpasses air conditioning or watermelon.

The watercourse twists and turns, stalactites rise and fall; we duck low and crane upwards, sometimes sidling past, reveling in the joy of mysterious exploration.

At the narrowest point, only one boat can squeeze through; at the widest, the line of sight ends in pitch black, seemingly boundless. The underground river water is clear to the bottom, colorful lights shine on the stalactites on both sides, glittering brilliantly.

Projections scatter dappled starlight on the cave ceiling; looking up, you feel as if under an infinite starry sky, tranquil and serene. 'Drunk, unaware the sky is reflected in the water, a boat of clear dreams presses down the Milky Way.'

Gazing from afar, the jagged stalactites are draped in a rainbow coat of lights, dazzling like a post-rain rainbow.

Moving forward, at the end of the river, a wave of sci-fi light appears. It's touted as the world's first cave elevator, built at the junction of the first and second tier waterways, allowing visitors to lift both boat and passengers up onto the rock top and enter the second tier with an 8-meter drop—very thrilling.

The second tier waterway is even more splendid than the first; looking around, you feel as if in a jade pool fairyland or a fairy-tale kingdom.

Riding a small boat, drifting through the mysterious cave, watching the stalactites around constantly change shapes—countless bizarre yet peerlessly magnificent forms.

The rock patterns overhead resemble a natural copper coin, evoking awe at nature's craftsmanship.

Drifting through the winding cave, we are pulled by a conveyor belt into another stream, and amidst the roaring splash, we reach the end of the underground river. Looking up, clouds hang at the cave entrance, reaching straight to the heavens. So that's how the Cloud-Suspended Tongtian River gets its name.

Exiting the cave, you climb stone steps, with natural and fresh Instagram-worthy photo spots along the way—snap a casual shot and it's a landscape portrait masterpiece.

Standing amidst the clouds, overlooking the mountains and waters, your skirt fluttering, at this moment, you are the most lively angel in the forest. These Angel Wings are from the same lineage as the Burj Khalifa, personally designed and created by Los Angeles artist Colette Miller, who traveled across the ocean.

Further on is the famous glass walkway in the scenic area: Lingyun Sky Bridge.

Exquisitely designed, magnificent, sunlight dances upon it like musical notes leaping on a staff, flowing between piano and fingertips. Waiting for the wind, bringing the tranquil breath of the mountains, blowing against these dancing notes—time stands serene, with a tinkling like jade pendants.

Standing on the glass bridge, gazing far, distant mountains are like dark eyebrow paint, nearby waters veil-like mist.

If you're tired of noise, why not come and see such scenery, feel the peace and purity of this landscape, and that ethereal quality of 'birdsong making the mountain even more serene'.

A gentle breeze blows, the scenery stretches endlessly before your eyes, and at this moment, you are free.

Activity 3: Thrilling High-Mountain Suspended Rafting

Looking down, you can see a slide faintly visible among the trees. It's the most thrilling experience in the area: high-mountain suspended rafting—'Soaring Over Air'.

This is an elevated glass slide, over 1,350 meters long with a 120-meter height difference from start to finish. Clear Tongtian River water is channeled in, and visitors don raincoats and ride boats downstream. The wind whistles past your ears, emerald forests and treetops flash by, while screams rise and fall continuously. The scenic area thoughtfully provides raincoats and waterproof gear, so even your shoes won't get wet.

Of course, if you're not into heart-pounding excitement, you can also descend via the wooden boardwalk alongside, enjoying the scenery along the way.

Activity 4: Encountering Romantic Balinese Ambiance

The moist, fresh forest air, mixed with the scent of earth, while walking in this natural forest oxygen bar, every breath intoxicates. After the aerial rafting, the journey isn't over; along the way, there's a Balinese-style Instagrammable bird's nest for photos. Woven vines create a beautiful, fresh forest style, turning you into a fairy stepping out of a painting.

Activity 5: Langshi Golden Beach Bamboo Rafting

If you have spare time, take a trip with your companions to a famous rafting spot near Hangzhou, just 7 kilometers from Tongtian River—Tongxi Rafting, also known as Langshi Golden Beach.

Sunlight falls on every pebble along the riverbank, shining with a golden gleam, hence the name 'Golden Beach'. Layers of rolling hills, gurgling streams, sunlight filtering through the diffuse bamboo mist, as if you've stepped into an unending painting.

A fold of green mountain is a folding screen, a cove of emerald water is a lute. Silent poem and sounding picture, you must seek them on the Tonglu River.

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