Misty Rain in Jiangnan: Savoring the Graceful Waters
Hangzhou, a rapidly developing city, yet it also holds countless poignant historical legends. Since ancient times, Jiangnan has been prosperous, nurturing numerous literati here. By the shores of West Lake (Xihu), they left behind many famous verses, making Xihu a world-renowned tourist destination. Here are the legends of Fahai and Bai Suzhen, the elegance of Broken Bridge with Remnant Snow, the story of Longjing horse riding, and countless other beautiful things. On this trip to Hangzhou, I wanted to see Xihu, but definitely not only Xihu.
D1 Guangzhou—Hangzhou, check in InterContinental Hotel D2 Xihu, Southern Song Imperial Street D3 Langlanglang Water Park, overnight at First World Hotel D4 Hangzhou—Tonglu D5 Shanwanwan Rafting D6 Hangzhou—Guangzhou
1. Change of clothes (I prepared plenty, mainly quick-dry garments. Early July marks the plum rain season in Jiangnan, so extra clothing is handy.) 2. Swim trunks (this trip has many water activities!) 3. Various documents 4. Mosquito repellent (going to the mountains of Tonglu; I'm prone to mosquito bites, so repellent is essential.) Other than that, not much preparation is needed—you don't even need to carry cash, just use mobile payment.
There are many flights from Guangzhou to Hangzhou, and the flights are quite full. It shows that the gloom that shrouded the land in the first half of the year is gradually dissipating. You can prepare your health QR code on the plane, especially since you'll need to show it when leaving the airport, saving a lot of queuing time. On the first day, I arrived in Hangzhou in the afternoon, so I took a taxi directly to my pre-booked InterContinental Hotel Hangzhou.
Located in Qianjiang New City, the InterContinental Hotel Hangzhou is not far from the airport, about a 20-minute ride. Its architectural design is very distinctive—a golden sphere, like a radiant sun by the Qiantang River. This innovative design concept is unique, allowing every room to have beautiful views; half of them directly overlook the Qiantang River. Next to the hotel is the Hangzhou Grand Theater, shaped like a crescent moon. From high above, it presents a scene of the sun and moon shining together.
The hotel lobby is on the fifth floor, featuring a hollow design that reveals the golden sphere's rooftop. Sunlight pours through the glass roof, bathing the opulent lobby in a special brilliance. I booked a river-view room on the 12th floor, spacious at over 60 square meters, offering ample space for a comfortable stay. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Qiantang River, and you can watch boats passing by from the room. The bed directly faces the window, so even lying down you can enjoy the river view. There's also a round lounge chair by the window; lounging there with a cup of West Lake Longjing tea makes for an exceptionally leisurely afternoon. The bathroom has a wet/dry separation, very convenient, and a large bathtub. Soaking in warm water at night washes away a day's travel fatigue, a truly delightful experience. The room is well-equipped, even a capsule coffee machine. Ending the day back in the room, or waking up in the morning and brewing a fragrant cup of coffee as the dawn light arrives, is a blessing.
In the evening, I stayed in and enjoyed a lavish buffet at the hotel's restaurant on the fifth floor. Sitting by the window, you can savor the meal while gazing at the expansive scenery outside. Seafood buffet with unlimited seafood is always the main attraction. The selection is plentiful: crab legs, prawns, scallops—cold seafood platters make an excellent starter. There are also Japanese-style abalone, crab sticks, and various fresh seafood. Just a touch of mustard soy sauce and lemon juice brings out their freshness perfectly. Beyond cold platters, cooked seafood is equally delicious. Stir-fried roe crab has rich, sweet roe and firm meat; bighead prawns are crisp and juicy; chef's wok skills infuse them with aromatic flavors, truly tantalizing. Grilled seafood is even more fragrant: sea fish with firm, naturally salty-sweet flesh, the distinct taste of ocean fish. Prawns flambéed with brandy are extremely aromatic. Various meats—roast chicken, German pork knuckle, Cantonese-style roasted meats—are all available. The meats are perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful with their seasonings, all delicious.
Desserts after a meal elevate the happiness of a feast. There's a wide variety: mousse, cakes, cream puffs—each exquisitely presented, tempting the appetite. Drinks: Pairing different wines with food enhances the experience. Seafood with white wine—the crisp white won't overpower; robust red wine with meats improves the taste. Here, unlimited red and white wines are offered, plus expertly mixed cocktails by a mixologist. Different wines with the food bring a tipsy feeling to the evening. Outside, the Qiantang River glitters with lights; such a hazy night is enchanting. Back in the room, brewing a pot of tea, taking a warm bath, and sinking into the comfortably firm bed, the night was leisurely and perfect.
If there's one lake the nation knows best, West Lake would certainly be on the list. Its waters may not be exceptionally clear, but along the shores of the beautiful Xizi Lake, countless romantic legends linger. From Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai to Xu Xian and Bai Suzhen, these love stories have drawn literati through the ages, who left their footprints and timeless masterpieces here. From the Ten Views of West Lake to the New Ten Views, dynasties old and new have layered the lake with cultural sights and beauty. Visiting Hangzhou, West Lake is a must—to taste Hangzhou's culture and gaze upon the gentle waters that captivated so many scholars.
Getting from the InterContinental to West Lake is convenient: a taxi about 20 yuan, or take the metro. I set my destination at the Broken Bridge with Remnant Snow area, which is next to Hangzhou's pedestrian street. Lunch can be enjoyed among the bustling street's local specialties before strolling the lake, very handy. The best time for Broken Bridge scenery is right after snow in winter. When I came, it was summer, yet the elegance of this spot was still visible. Many pleasure boats and painted barges line the lakeshore; if you don't feel like walking, you can take a boat to tour the lake.
If any line sings praise of West Lake, "By willowed banks, dawn breeze and lingering snow" is a well-known verse. The lake is fringed with weeping willows. Strolling under their green canopies is a lovely sight. It was summer, and lotus flowers bloomed, their broad leaves hiding the sun and pink blossoms forming the quintessential summer West Lake view. Along the way, you might spot cheeky squirrels scurrying on pine trees and a family of pigeons, adding lively charm to West Lake. In the afternoon, a creative market appears by the lake, selling ingenious trinkets; when lights come on, the small market becomes even more enchanting, buzzing with energy. It happened to rain on my visit, so I didn't want to walk too much. I simply sat at a lakeside tea house, ordered a pot of Longjing, and watched boats glide over the clear water and rain drizzling down, just daydreaming—a wonderful way to savor West Lake.
Hangzhou has rarely served as a national capital in history; the most famous instance is perhaps the Southern Song Dynasty. Then known as Lin'an, its very heart was the Southern Song Imperial Street. So, I went to walk this historic street and see its past. The street has suffered damage over time and war, but now rebuilt, it recreates the old atmosphere. In the replica ancient buildings, one can recall the romance of scholars past and glimpse old-time life. Every year, the Southern Song emperor would pass through Imperial Street for ancestral rites, and it housed most of Lin'an's residents, the height of prosperity. From the Song dynasty to today, walking among these retro edifices feels like stepping through time. "Treating Hangzhou as Bianzhou," though a satirical poem by Lin Sheng, from "hills beyond hills, pavilions beyond pavilions" to "balmy breezes making tourists drunk," captures Hangzhou's beauty and charm. The rebuilt Imperial Street brims with shops, hawkers' warm calls, and bluestone paths, all evoking Hangzhou's loveliness. The little shops lining the street offer local specialties: silk, umbrellas, Longjing tea, and exquisite pastries. Shopkeepers warmly invite tastings; even without buying, you can sample many Hangzhou delights. For a "foodie" like me, this was bliss. Time slips by as you wander, nibbling local treats, and soon evening falls. Finally, I arrived at the Drum Tower on Imperial Street, said to be where emperors dismounted before ancestral rites. Lit up at night, it glimmers quietly, a serene brilliance on Hangzhou's streets.
Summer water fun is the perfect activity. Having long heard about Langlanglang Water Park, on my third day in Hangzhou, I chose it to experience the thrill of a water park and cool off. Langlanglang Water Park is under the Songcheng Group, covering nearly 100,000 square meters—such an expanse naturally holds abundant attractions. Locker rooms alone span four floors, accommodating hordes of visitors, a testament to its scale. Change and start your water adventure! The park provides free life jackets—very handy, be sure to grab one! There are numerous rides; the most thrilling are the slides, the giant funnel, and the U-shaped slide. These reach several stories high; holding a mat or seated in a tube, you plunge through water from tens of meters up, feeling the centrifugal force, washing away heat in icy water, and releasing stress with screams—a perfect summer stress-buster. If you can't handle extreme thrills, the Lazy River is ideal. Lie on a float and drift gently with the current, utterly relaxed. The Water Fort is undeniably great for kids, with small slides and fun, safe features in half a meter of water—a perfect mini play zone. The Colorful Bubble Pool is adorable, regularly gushing thick foam, very cute.
First World Hotel: Not wanting to bother going out at night, I booked dinner and accommodation at the Hangzhou First World Hotel right next to Langlanglang Water Park. The hotel is huge; stepping inside feels like entering a Southeast Asian rainforest, very distinctive. In the garden, you can meet cute animals: lively bunnies, elegant peacocks, colorful parrots—all living there, quite fascinating. I booked a family room; it's large, with a bathtub, sofa, and all amenities—a little retreat is a happy part of the journey. Beyond themed beddings and décor, the room has adorable dolls, a slide, a tent, and other child-friendly touches, very heartwarming.
Tonglu, a two-hour drive from downtown Hangzhou, has become a weekend getaway hotspot for Hangzhou residents. The Fuchun River flows through Tonglu, endowing it with scenic hills and clear waters. Serene Tonglu is perfect for escaping urban clamor and feeling the coolness. There are many ways to enjoy Tonglu: watching clouds rise and dissipate, sunrise and sunset from a quiet village, or experiencing the thrill of the Fuchun River's rapids rushing through the mountains. Shanwanwan Rafting was one destination on this Tonglu trip. Tonglu has many rafting spots, but Shanwanwan stands out for its large drop and swift currents, always popular. Getting from Hangzhou city to Tonglu is easy: high-speed trains from Hangzhou East Station to Tonglu Station take just a few dozen minutes. Shanwanwan is in Fenshui Village. The name itself is intriguing. The road to Shanwanwan winds through mountains but is well-paved, smooth despite the curves—truly feeling like you're venturing deep into the hills. Fenshui Village is small, nestled against mountains by the water. I arrived just after rain when it cleared; mist wreathed the peaks, like stepping into a fairyland. Walking in the village, dogs and ducks on the street are unafraid of passersby; watching a duck family stroll by the river was a quaint, childlike delight.
Of course, the main goal here was Shanwanwan Rafting. Rafting is an exhilarating sport that burns plenty of energy and calories while challenging turbulent rivers, building courage to face difficulties head-on. Shanwanwan Rafting boasts the largest drop in East China, so it draws many visitors each summer. On weekends, the river is dotted with a dense flotilla of inflatable rafts, injecting lively energy into tranquil Tonglu and the peaceful Fuchun River. The rafting is on the upper reaches of the Fuchun, with excellent water quality. A reservoir upstream regulates water levels, ensuring optimal rafting conditions whether it's rainy or dry season. From the visitor center, electric shuttles take you to the start point, very convenient. The entire course is 3.5 kilometers, with a drop of 208 meters from start to finish, taking about an hour. At the launch point, staff help you don a life jacket and helmet for absolute safety. Suited up and seated in the inflatable raft, the thrilling ride begins! If it's a weekend, the mass of rafts setting off creates a magnificent scene.
The first half is especially wild—fast, tight turns, sudden accelerations that deliver the full force of East China's highest drop, inducing screams of excitement. The speed and centrifugal pull on sharp bends are electrifying. Gradually, the river calms. In the placid sections, the water is so clear you can see the pebbles and aquatic weeds on the bottom. Occasional splashes of cool water wash away summer's heat and sultriness. You can take in the riverside scenery, watch clear water slap the banks forming spray, a view that soothes and relaxes the spirit. There are also wide pools where you can have water fights with other rafters, drenching each other for endless joy. Reaching the end brings a sense of satisfaction, joy, and accomplishment from conquering the rapids—that feeling is immensely proud and happy.
Besides the exciting river rafting, there's also fun glass slide drifting to try. A glass slide has been built on the hillside, with water rushing down. You sit in an inflatable, wear a raincoat, and slide from the top. It's less intense than river rafting, more like a giant waterslide. The glass's smoothness combined with water flow quickens the raft, adding a good dose of thrill. Swooping around curves, centrifugal force delivers extra excitement. And with a raincoat, you don't get wet, so no need for a swimsuit. The transparent glass also lets you see green trees on both sides and the river below, a great sightseeing experience. In the mountains, iron chains strung with wooden planks half a meter apart create the "Step-by-Step Thrill" walk. With a safety harness, you can experience the dizzying excitement. Walking on the suspension bridge, the swaying is thrilling; suspended on all sides, every step on each plank truly brings a heart-pounding sensation. If that's too much, the adjacent Glass Bridge is an alternative. Spanning a valley between two mountains, you can walk across and see the gorge scenery. Beneath your feet, the Fuchun River rushes, and the green hills unfold. While less scary, it still offers an awesome perspective of the landscape from mid-air. If visited after rain, the bridge is enveloped in mist, as if suspended in clouds—a magical crossing. No matter dry or wet weather, Shanwanwan offers thrilling rafting, with clear water ever flowing. The reason the river maintains its water level is the upstream reservoir, which can store or release water to easily regulate the flow. Beyond water storage and hydropower generation, the reservoir itself is worth visiting. Built halfway up the mountain, you can see the water rushing down from it, a spectacular sight reminiscent of cascading down three thousand feet.
I've always believed that tasting local cuisine is a crucial part of traveling anywhere. Local dishes use indigenous ingredients that, even if transported elsewhere, lose some freshness. Each place has its own cooking methods and unique flavors, the taste of the land. In Tonglu, it's the same. If Hangzhou cuisine is often perceived as sweet, Tonglu's dishes defy that expectation. Perhaps due to the dampness along the Fuchun River, the food here has a spicy kick—bolder and more appetizing. Free-range chicken: Village households often raise free-range chickens that roam and forage, resulting in firm, sweet meat. Prepared simply, baique chicken (white cut) highlights the chicken's natural flavor, or braised, it's delicious. River fish: The Fuchun River teems with freshwater fish, with tender flesh. Pan-fried and then bathed in a rich sauce, it's savory and aromatic. Dried bamboo shoots: With Zhejiang's bamboo groves, spring and summer bring fresh shoots, sweet and tender. To preserve them, locals dry the shoots; rehydrated when cooking, they become a fresh delight. Whether braised with pork belly or vegetables, they add a wonderful flavor. Other small dishes are equally tasty—perhaps no rare delicacies, but these simple mountain ingredients carry Tonglu's character and deliciousness. In Fenshui Village, there are no high-end hotels, but staying at a local guesthouse is a fine choice. The village is picturesque, every breath of air rich in negative oxygen ions, sweet and fresh. Guesthouses are converted from local homes, newly built ones whose environment is quite nice. Rooms have all necessary amenities, very comfortable. The top floor often has a large balcony; sitting there looking at the distant green hills and the mist swirling around the mountains, daydreaming, is a blessing. Breathing the ion-rich air seems to make sleep extraordinarily sweet. Falling asleep in such fragrant air, rest is deeply peaceful.
This trip to Hangzhou happened right at the start of the plum rain season. The misty rain of Jiangnan brought slight inconvenience to outings, but it also lent a distinct charm to the journey. The misty rain best reveals Jiangnan's elegance; continuous drizzle is the very essence of Jiangnan. I felt there was still so much left to explore, but the trip from Guangzhou to Hangzhou is so convenient. Next time, I'll probably discover different joys and inspirations.
1. Transportation in Hangzhou is very convenient, with a well-developed metro and bus system, but if sightseeing, try to avoid rush hours to dodge traffic jams...
2. There's plenty of good food in Hangzhou, not expensive. Well-known restaurants like Waipo's Home and Louwailou average less than 100 yuan per person.
3. To fully tour West Lake takes about a whole day; there are electric carts you can ride.
4. If you don't want to take the high-speed train from Hangzhou to Tonglu, a ride-sharing car is also a good option.
