Off-the-Beaten-Path Jiangnan Destinations: Qiandao Lake – Qianduo Scenic Area – Lizhong Water Forest – Huaxi Village – Lingering Garden – Qili Shantang – Wuzhen

2020 – an unusual year. Apart from the changes the coronavirus imposed on humanity, the lunar Mid-Autumn Festival and the Gregorian National Day arbitrarily landed on the same date (said to happen once every nineteen years). With the virus not yet eradicated and so much still unknown about it, the safest way to travel during the short holiday was to skip the expressway free-pass periods and avoid peak times. Because of excessive rain recently, the weather along several routes we were interested in was uncooperative; only the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region had clear skies, so heading south to Jiangnan became our sole choice. We had already been to Jiangnan many times and had covered all the famous big attractions, so lesser-known spots became our goal. This trip was the farthest we had ventured in the post-pandemic period. To protect ourselves effectively, we combined flights and self-driving: we booked round-trip air tickets online in advance and arranged a car rental in advance. Itinerary: 24–28 September.

Day 1. Xi’an–Hangzhou, visit Qiandao Lake, overnight at Qiandao Lake.

Day 2. Morning: Qiandao Lake. Noon: Qiandao Lake–Xinghua, overnight in Xinghua.

Day 3. Xinghua–Suzhou. Morning: Qianduo Scenic Area and Water Forest. Afternoon: Huaxi Village. Evening: Lingering Garden in Suzhou, overnight in Suzhou.

Day 4. Suzhou–Wuzhen. Visit Wuzhen East Scenic Zone, the site of the World Internet Conference, and West Scenic Zone. Overnight in Wuzhen West Scenic Zone.

Day 5. Wuzhen–Hangzhou–Xi’an.

Route: Chun’an Qiandao Lake – Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area – Xinghua Lizhong Water Forest – Wuxi Huaxi Village – Suzhou Lingering Garden – Wuzhen, six attractions in total. About 1,200 km in all.

Day 1. Xi’an–Hangzhou–Chun’an

Flight: Xi’an–Hangzhou 09:25–11:50

Drive: Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport to Chun’an Qiandao Lake Scenic Area: 3 hrs 14 min, 196.4 km via Changshen Expressway and Baixiao Line.

Sight: Qiandao Lake

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We landed ten minutes early at 11:40 am and picked up our car from the airport branch of Shenzhou Car Rental. On the way, we had lunch at a five-star expressway service area in Jiande, Hangzhou. In the service area plaza, a suspended kettle poured blessings from heaven. By 4:30 pm we arrived at the Qiandao Lake Scenic Area. Many hotels line the lakeshore; we found a very appealing one on Pailing Peninsula – Qiandao Lake Media Junlan Resort Hotel. The hotel is built right by the lake, adjacent to the Qiandao Lake tourist pier, facing the lake’s central area, and neighbours Menggutang Cultural Park and Xiushui Street Theme Park. You can enjoy the beautiful scenery of central Qiandao Lake without leaving the hotel. We booked a garden-view room (the lake-view rooms with good locations were already taken), and the hotel gave us two vouchers for mountain bikes to ride around the lake. After check-in, dusk was approaching. Consulting the tourist map, we planned to drive counterclockwise along the lake that day, and the next day ride clockwise along the “Greenway around the Lake.” Passing Xiushui Street – tourist pier – Menggutang Cultural Park – Natural History Museum – Qiandao Lake food stalls – Fish Street – night cruise pier – Riverside Park – Lakeside Park – Xiushui Square – Xiushui Lane – Qiandao Lake Bridge – Yuandao Station – Red Leaf Bay Scenic Area. By the time we reached Xiaojinshan viewing platform, night had fallen, so we had to turn back. (It gets dark very early here; by 6 pm visibility was already poor.) We dined at the hotel. It is said that Qiandao Lake fish is China’s number-one freshwater fish brand, and fish-head dishes are a speciality. But the fish here are huge – a portion is the size of a washbasin, suitable for four or more diners. Two people couldn’t finish it, so we had to make do with Qiandao tofu and Qiandao bamboo shoots.

Day 2. Chun’an–Xinghua

Drive: Qiandao Lake Media Junlan Resort Hotel to Xinghua Jinjiang Inn (Yingwu Bridge branch), 6 hrs 56 min, 518.2 km via Changshen Expressway and Fuyang-Liyang Expressway.

Sight: Qiandao Lake

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At dawn I was eager to capture the sunrise, but unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate, so I had to settle for a walk around the hotel’s lake-facing area. Breakfast was abundant. After breakfast, we collected our mountain bikes and followed the 15-km lakeside greenway, cycling through Qiandao Lake’s natural beauty, embracing the scenery on two wheels. The greenway is neither too long nor too short; cyclists can feel the landscape as they ride. After about an hour, the weather seemed to brighten a bit, presenting the best moment for photography. But we had to depart for our next destination around noon and would need seven hours on the road; before leaving, we had to spare an hour for an aerial shoot to get a bird’s-eye view of Qiandao Lake. Time was tight, so we couldn’t cycle all the way to the Qiandao Lake Cycling Bridge and reluctantly returned to the hotel. After completing the aerial shots, we checked out and set off for Xinghua. A special word of praise for the expressway service areas in Jiangsu. We encountered two along the way, both rated “five-star” – truly worthy of the name. High quality and spotlessly clean; we enjoyed local delicacies from this land of fish and rice and also tasted authentic traditional snacks like Huangqiao sesame cakes and Jiaxing zongzi. After a tiring journey, we reached Xinghua at 8 pm.

Day 3. Xinghua–Suzhou

Drive: Xinghua Jinjiang Inn (Yingwu Bridge branch) to Suzhou Jinjiang Inn (Suzhou Railway Station Lingering Garden branch), 4 hrs 16 min, 212.0 km via Yanjing Expressway and Beijing-Shanghai Expressway.

Sights: Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area – Xinghua Lizhong Water Forest – Wuxi Huaxi Village – Suzhou Lingering Garden

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In the morning, strolling near the hotel, we saw residents washing clothes and mops in the river. After breakfast we checked out and drove off to start the day’s sightseeing. Leaving Xinghua’s urban area, we soon entered the newly opened waterside scenic road “Qianduo Beautiful Road,” opened only last year. It links Qianduo rapeseed flowers, Lizhong Water Forest Park, Wujin Dang Wetland, and many administrative villages, stretching 66 km. Along the way we not only enjoyed pleasing landscapes but also witnessed distinctive scenes of fish and shrimp catching, hairy crab farming, and sesame harvesting. “Qianduo Beautiful Road” has been shortlisted among 2019’s “Ten Most Beautiful Rural Roads” and was named by the Ministry of Transport as “the road that evokes the most nostalgia and the most popular road.” Wujin Dang is the starting section of the road. On the Wujin Dang Bridge, mighty statues of Yue Family Army soldiers, along with the ancient Song-dynasty warship “Victory” not far away, tell the historical legend of Wujin Dang and showcase the nationally recognized Zhuhong wooden boat craftsmanship and the wooden boat industry. Driving on Qianduo Beautiful Road, various sculptural vignettes kept springing into view, telling splendid Xinghua stories to passers-by. A giant bronze crab covered with a stainless steel fishing net conveys “crabs enriching the world,” vividly illustrating how Xinghua crabs are big, tasty, with orange roe and plump meat. Along the road are also farming sculptures, lotus sculptures, water-town windmills and other characteristic sights, highlighting Xinghua’s long-standing culture and superb ecology. For the first time in my life, I saw sesame plants at their peak fruiting stage, standing before me as herbaceous plants. To think that tiny, fragrant sesame seeds grow like this! Amazed, I borrowed a sickle from a local and harvested a few plants. Xinghua is crisscrossed by rivers and lakes and is a source of all kinds of aquatic products. During the fishing and crab season, busy fishermen can be seen everywhere. After driving a dozen kilometres, we arrived at Qianduo Scenic Area. The “duotian” (stacked field) landscape took shape 750 years ago. In this watery region short of soil, ancestors dug earth from under the water and piled it up patch by patch into raised fields, creating a thousand such plots. The rapeseed flowers that bloom in March and April each year are the duotian’s most beautiful season; golden autumn should also be when marigolds blanket the fields – “view rapeseed flowers in spring, admire chrysanthemums in autumn.” This year’s rapeseed flower season happened during the critical period of epidemic prevention and control. The scenic area mainly received individual visitors from the province and nearby regions. Because few came to admire the flowers, the farmers didn’t plant lotus or marigolds. The area wasn’t officially open but the gate wasn’t closed. We walked in and felt as if we’d entered a no-man’s-land; the vast scenic ground, normally bustling, had become our private domain. A desolate scene spread before us, as we’d expected. No regrets – the important thing about coming to Qianduo was to see a special form of farming landscape: the “duotian” terrain. Of course, a floral sea would have been a nicer decoration. Entering the gate, we crossed a footbridge over the “Qianduo Beautiful Road” and reached the viewing platform. Looking around, on one side were prosperous villages, on the other the world-renowned duotian. Descending from the platform, we strolled among the duotian and stepped on the man-made earth mounds. From Qianduo Scenic Area to Lizhong Water Forest Park along the Qianduo Beautiful Road is less than ten kilometres. The Water Forest Scenic Area boasts Jiangsu’s largest man-made wetland forest, dominated by metasequoia trees, covering 2,000 mu. It uses a three-dimensional model of woods, mounds, ditches, and fishponds to create a water-town scene of “woods with water inside, woods with birds among them” – truly unique. Not far away is the intake of the water forest’s circulating water system. Staff were busy working. Wooden boardwalks, wooden tables and chairs, stone bridges, pavilions… a variety of structures dot the green trees and clear water. Crisscrossing waterways divide the “duotian” like a chessboard, and the rivers along the gridlines form shaded “water lanes in the forest.” Every channel features various styles of bridge. The exposed roots (called “air roots”) of the water-tolerant pond cypresses growing along the banks stick out of the water in strange, diverse shapes. Duckweed naturally growing on the surface dyes the water emerald green. A dividing line between the duckweed-covered water and clear river water is clearly visible. Stepping into the “Little Jiuzhaigou of Central Jiangsu,” you feel as if you’ve wandered into a fantasy world: rows of pond cypresses growing in clear water, trees and water merging into one, reflections dancing, light and shadow flowing; a wooden boardwalk meanders into secluded spots. The pond cypresses stand in various postures. Photography enthusiasts strike all kinds of poses to capture precious scenes. Leaving “Little Jiuzhaigou,” we arrived at the “Lotus Pond.” In a brief two hours we breathed in plenty of negative oxygen ions and feasted our eyes on the water forest’s beauty, truly savouring the carefree mood of “wild ducks sleep on the bank with an air of leisure, old trees bear blossoms and lose their ugly branches.” Then we drove on toward Suzhou, taking a detour to take a quick look at the nation-famed “Number One Village Under Heaven” – Huaxi Village. After 176 km, at 2 pm we reached this mysterious village I had especially wished to see with my own eyes. It’s said that in 2001 Huaxi Village, through a “one division, five unifications” policy, helped 20 surrounding villages develop together, building a “Great Huaxi” covering 35 square kilometres with a population of 30,340 – a village that has “green hills, lakes, an expressway, a shipping channel, a heliport, and even a five-star luxury hotel.” In 2012, it magically achieved an annual economic income of 52.5 billion yuan for the whole village, with every household’s bank deposits ranging from at least 6 million to 20 million yuan, and every family living in a villa – truly eye-catching! Landmark buildings: the Huaxi Golden Pagoda cluster, the Huaxi Longxi International Hotel, and the Huaxi Happiness Garden villa area. After a cursory glance, we headed onto the expressway to Suzhou and arrived a little over an hour later. We had originally wanted to visit the Humble Administrator’s Garden, but after searching for nearly an hour we couldn’t find the entrance because of roadworks and renovations all around. It was already past 4 pm, so we thought of Lingering Garden. It closes at 5:30 pm, and fortunately the garden is not large – enough time to enjoy it leisurely. Lingering Garden is a grand classical private garden, famous for its ingeniously arranged architecture and numerous rare stones. Along with Suzhou’s Humble Administrator’s Garden, Beijing’s Summer Palace, and Chengde’s Summer Resort, it is one of China’s four great gardens. When the closing bell rang, we had already circled the garden one and a half times, leaving no sight unseen. All day on the road, non-stop from Xinghua via Wuxi to Suzhou. Though the distance wasn’t long, we crossed three cities and many attractions (lunch at a five-star expressway service area, tasty and clean). At the end of the day, we longed instantly for a comfortable hotel to rest. We found the Jinjiang Inn Lingering Garden branch at the last moment, conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk from the garden.

Day 4. Suzhou–Tongxiang

Drive: Suzhou Jinjiang Inn (Suzhou Railway Station Lingering Garden branch) to Wuzhen Scenic Area: 1 hr 30 min, 76.1 km.

Sights: Suzhou Qili Shantang – Wuzhen East Scenic Zone – World Internet Conference Site – Wuzhen West Scenic Zone

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Taking an early-morning walk, we unexpectedly discovered the historic cultural district of Qili Shantang just steps away. We luckily added another sight, and sunrise was the perfect time for photography. It was still early, so we could freely enter the area without tickets. When the poet Bai Juyi served as governor of Suzhou, he had the Shantang River dug from Tiger Hill in the west to Changmen in the east to facilitate water and land transport. The ancient street built along the river is called Shantang Street, also known as “Baigong Embankment.” It stretches about seven li, hence the name “Qili (Seven-Li) Shantang.” Since ancient times, Shantang Street has been hailed as “the finest street in Gusu.” A folk song sings: “Heaven above, Suzhou and Hangzhou below. Hangzhou has West Lake, Suzhou has Shantang.” On the way back to the hotel from Shantang Street, we passed “Suzhou Legal Culture Park.” Its wall, “Wall of Chinese Legal History,” was particularly eye-catching. Panels embedded in the wall systematically introduced the laws of successive dynasties, drawing tourists and passers-by to stop and read. We set off from Suzhou at 9 am and reached Wuzhen Scenic Area around 10 am. It’s said that when visiting Wuzhen, you must spend a night in the West Scenic Zone to enjoy the night view. So we chose a homestay there and bought a “East–West Scenic Zone Accommodation Combo Ticket” (which allows entry to both zones until 3 pm the following day). We allocated our time reasonably: sightseeing order – East Zone, World Internet Conference site, then West Zone. Wuzhen, a famous historical and cultural town in China, has over 7,000 years of civilization and a 1,300-year history as a town. Situated at the junction of two provinces, three prefectures, and seven counties, its waterways crisscross the town and belong to the Taihu Lake basin – a classic Jiangnan water town, known as a “land of fish and rice, home of silk” and famed as “China’s last waterside dwelling households.” The East Scenic Zone features pristine, unpretentious water-town scenery and a profound cultural heritage, displaying its unique charm. Here, simple folk houses spread along the riverbanks, time-honoured green tiles and white walls, lively shops and inns line the streets one after another, bustling with activity. Many locals still reside here, so the leisurely, tranquil ambience of water-town life is very strong. Much of the TV drama “Time Passes By” was filmed in Wuzhen’s East Zone. Many cultural relics are also preserved. During the Southern Song dynasty, to keep fit and ensure local peace, people practised martial arts on boats, giving rise to the “boxing boat.” Can you tell that the shop assistant wearing a mask and grinding medicinal herbs in front of the store is a robot? Walking along ancient water lanes and streets in Wuzhen West Zone feels like travelling back in time. Lizhi Academy is the elementary school where Mao Dun (Shen Yanbing) studied as a child. The Gao Gan Boat, also called “Silkworm Flower Boat,” is a traditional cultural activity held around Qingming Festival in the mulberry-growing and silkworm-raising areas near Wuzhen to pray for a bountiful silkworm cocoon harvest. A huge stone mortar is placed in the centre of a large boat, with a carefully selected, extremely resilient giant bamboo pole (“Silkworm Flower Bamboo”) inserted. A man dressed in white climbs to the tip of the pole, symbolising a silkworm baby, and performs various thrilling stunts. Lunch was local specialities at Hanlin Mansion in East Zone: Steamed Taihu Whitefish – wild whitefish from Taihu Lake, delicate, tender and fresh soup; Dingsheng Cake – Wuzhen has a tradition of honouring scholars since ancient times. When candidates went off to take the imperial examinations, friends and family prepared several baskets of sweet, soft, and glutinous Dingsheng cakes to see them off, expressing good wishes for success. After feasting our eyes and palate in the East Zone, we drove to the “World Internet Conference Site.” Unfortunately, the venue was undergoing renovations and upgrades, so the whole area was closed to visitors. We could only hurriedly snap a few photos from behind the venue. Having come all this way to Wuzhen, we had wanted to see this place that hosts an international internet gathering connecting China with the world. Regretful and unwilling, we drove around the venue and found the best spot to launch our drone and fly over the fence for an aerial shot. The closure didn’t block our view; from above, we could take in the entire panorama. At 2 pm we reached the West Scenic Zone. Wuzhen West Zone borders the Beijing–Hangzhou Grand Canal and boasts the highest density of canals and stone bridges among China’s ancient towns. The West Zone is oriented towards tourism and vacation, so its services are very mature, seamlessly linked from start to finish. We parked outside, handed our luggage to the luggage service, and a porter delivered it directly to our homestay. We entered the zone light and could explore on foot, take a shuttle, or sway along in a black-awning wooden boat. Among many national flags, we found China’s flag. The first sight inside is the high-end, grand cultural landmark – the Wuzhen Grand Theatre, showcasing a “modern Jiangnan water town.” The Mu Xin Art Museum displays Mu Xin’s lifetime works. In stark contrast to modernity, the West Zone preserves the Jiangnan ancient-town visage of “clear waters threading through town, houses pillowed on the river, homes drifting on water, water flowing under houses.” The Caomu Bense (plant-based dye) workshop, dense waterways, closely packed bridges, streets abutting the water, well-arranged old mansions, high walls and narrow lanes, ancient flagstone roads. The quaint Zhaoming Academy, where Crown Prince Zhaoming of the Southern Liang dynasty studied. Leaning on the railing, sitting quietly, savouring a detachment free from worldly concerns. Serene water lanes, rustic black-awning boats. Xiqing Hall – Wuzhen’s traditional wedding hall. San Cun Jin Lian (Three-Inch Golden Lotuses) Museum, a foot-binding history exhibition that reveals a world-renowned bizarre aesthetic and cruel relic of the past, recounting the twisted physical and mental suffering of ancient women. Yue Lao Temple – where lovers in Wuzhen make wishes for love. Bailian Pagoda, the tallest building in Wuzhen, stands by the ancient canal. Climbing up (open only to the third floor) gives a panoramic view of Wuzhen. Tongji Bridge, one of the “Bridge-in-Bridge” pair – formed by two stone arch bridges at right angles, named because you can see the other bridge through one bridge arch; one of the most beautiful ancient bridges. Wenchang Pavilion, a place to worship the god of literature; in old times, before exams, scholars would climb the pavilion to pray for success. General Wu Temple – after the An Lushan Rebellion in the Tang dynasty, General Wu Zan died defending Wuzhen; locals worship him as a protector. A theme restaurant rich in Republic-era style. Morning tea house and waterside stage. Colourful koi for viewing. After a big loop around Wuzhen, completing our daytime sightseeing, we went to our pre-booked homestay. Our luggage had already been delivered. A spotless, warm, homey room sitting right by the water. There were many guest comment cards; it seems this homestay enjoys a good reputation. After resting a while, before it was completely dark, we headed to a nearby restaurant for dinner to sample local specialities. After dinner, lights began to twinkle among the waterside houses. As lanterns lit up and the sky turned deep blue, we sat by the window in the restaurant, waiting for night to fall, and casually took a few dusk photos. Night slowly unfurled its curtains. All the changes were silent. By day, a bustling, lively scene; by night, a world of light and shadow: bewitching lights, gently rippling water, dancing reflections, interplay of light and shadow. Strolling through the West Zone at night, endless lights adorned the streets, lanes, bridge arches, waterside houses… understated yet gorgeous. High-hanging red lanterns, leisurely drifting black-awning boats, lights reflected on the water… every scene was worth pausing to admire. After thoroughly enjoying the view, we returned to our waterside homestay and quietly fell asleep pillowed by the water.

Day 5. Tongxiang–Hangzhou–Xi’an

Drive: Wuzhen Scenic Area to Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport: 2 hrs 9 min, 86.3 km via Hurui Line and Donghu Elevated Road (we chose not to take the expressway since we had plenty of time).

Sight: Wuzhen West Scenic Zone

Flight: Hangzhou–Xinyang–Xi’an 11:40–15:55

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Early morning, before the town stirred, we strolled along the water lanes of Wuzhen, waiting for the sun to rise, breathing the fresh, slightly damp air, enjoying the tranquil scenery, and taking in a different feeling. Breakfast at our homestay – the hostess personally made us shredded pork and pickled vegetable noodles, fried eggs, and rice cakes. Tasty, clean, and appetising. Coming to Wuzhen West Zone, finding a homestay, tasting a table of simple Jiangnan home cooking, spending a night pillowed by the water, enjoying the nightscape with its glimmering lights, breathing the early-morning air of the water town, catching a glimpse of the morning market on the water – it truly was a wonderful experience. After breakfast, at 8 am sharp we took our pre-booked shuttle, exited the West Scenic Zone, collected our car, refuelled, drove, returned the car, and boarded our flight… everything went smoothly. Thus ended our five-day whirlwind self-driving trip through Jiangsu and Zhejiang. We had tasted the convenience of the “fly and self-drive” combo within limited time, and enjoyed the freedom of going wherever we liked and changing our route at will.