4-Day Self-Drive from Shanghai: Hangzhou, Pan'an, Xianju (2020) – Xiangji Temple, Juxi Ancient Village, Potan Ancient Town, Gaoqian Ancient Village

The 2020 National Day holiday was special, firstly because the Mid-Autumn Festival fell on October 1st, and secondly because the shadow of the COVID-19 pandemic still lingered. After careful consideration, we planned a self-drive trip but avoided the crowds: in Hangzhou we didn't visit West Lake, and in Xianju we skipped the Shenxianju Scenic Area. The entire journey covered 952.8 kilometers.

October 1, 2020 (Hangzhou weather: sunny to cloudy, 18 to 28°C)

At 11:00, we set off from our home in Pudong, Shanghai.

At 11:50, we arrived at the Linhai Highway Toll Gate on the S32 Shenjiahu Expressway, having driven 24.5 km.

At 12:27, we stopped at Fengjing Service Area on the G60 Shanghai-Hangzhou Expressway for a break, cumulative distance 83.3 km.

The cross-provincial toll gate at Fengjing on the Shanghai-Hangzhou Expressway had been demolished, and part of the space was converted into a parking lot.

At 13:26, we arrived at Chang'an Service Area on the Shanghai-Hangzhou Expressway, cumulative distance 155.5 km.

At 13:58, we reached Desheng Toll Gate on the Shanghai-Hangzhou Expressway, cumulative distance 186.7 km.

We visited Xiangji Temple and parked our car in the underground garage of the Dadou Road Historical and Cultural Block.

Lishui Road on the east side of Dadou Road Historical Block.

Inside the block, the Hangzhou Canal Qili Hotel, a five-star property converted from 11 former national factory silk warehouses.

Xiangji Temple was first built during the Northern Song Dynasty (978 AD), originally named Xingfu Temple, and renamed Xiangji Temple during the Dazhong Xiangfu period (1008–1016). It was destroyed by a great fire at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, rebuilt several times, but ultimately devastated again. In the 52nd year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1713), two pagodas were erected within the temple. The east pagoda was destroyed in 1968, leaving only the west pagoda; the temple was reconstructed in 2009.

The stone pagodas of Xiangji Temple are a protected cultural relic of Zhejiang Province. Built in 1713, they are seven-tiered octagonal stone pagodas. They were modeled after the twin pagodas of Lingyin Temple but with noticeably smaller eaves, and their structure and reliefs are distinctly different from those at Lingyin Temple.

Xiangji Temple admission: 20 yuan.

Dadou Road Historical Block.

Fuyicang Site, located near Xiangji Temple at the intersection of Shengli River and the ancient Grand Canal, was a major grain storage depot during the Qing Dynasty.

We checked into Hangzhou Tianyuan Tower, a listed five-star hotel. We booked a Deluxe River-view Standard Room for 431 yuan (including breakfast for two), and were upgraded for free to a River-view Chess-themed Twin Room. The hotel sits on the banks of the Qiantang River; just across the road is the river embankment, perfect for an evening stroll. The Chess-themed Twin Room is larger than the Deluxe River-view Standard Room, with a separated wet and dry bathroom and a large bathtub. There's also a separate walk-in closet. The night we stayed happened to be Mid-Autumn Festival, and from our room we could see the full moon over the Qiantang River. The next day was clear, and around 6 a.m. we could watch the sunrise over the river. The hotel has an underground garage; when leaving, don't forget to ask the front desk for a parking voucher. Our car was linked to Alipay's frictionless payment system, so we drove out without grabbing a voucher and later found we had been charged 24 yuan for parking.

The hotel is infused with Go (Weiqi) culture.

Go Library.

River-view Chess-themed Twin Room: the cheapest same-day price on Ctrip was 627 yuan.

The Canal Zhijiang Tunnel by the river.

In the evening, we drove about 2 km to the Hang'erfeng Restaurant in Raffles City. Hang'erfeng is a dining chain under the Grandma's Home brand and was very popular. It's said to be an upgraded version of Grandma's Home.

Dongpo Pork, 18 yuan per serving – we didn't order it.

Beggar's Chicken, 108 yuan.

Sister Song's Fish Broth, 12 yuan.

Dried Vegetable and Scallion Stuffed Pastries (Congbao Hui), 16 yuan for 4 pieces.

Hang-style Tofu, 16 yuan.

Dry-fried Crispy Tofu Skin (Xiangling), 22 yuan.

Hang'er Sauce Dice, 38 yuan.

Takeaway boxes were free.

Back at the hotel, we took a walk along the riverbank.

By the end of the day, we had driven 218.1 km with an average fuel consumption of 7.0 L/100 km.

October 2, 2020 (Pan'an weather: sunny to cloudy, 16 to 29°C)

We watched the sunrise from our room in the morning.

The hotel's buffet breakfast was in a revolving restaurant with 360-degree city views. However, the breakfast variety could be better.

The tunnel next to the hotel.

On the Qiantang River levee.

At 12:15, we arrived at Xinjie Toll Gate on the Hangzhou Ring Expressway, cumulative distance 235.9 km.

At 12:52, we stopped at Xiaoshan Service Area on the G60 Hangzhou-Jinhua-Quzhou Expressway for a rest, cumulative distance 265.0 km.

Xiaoshan Service Area had many dining options; we bought milk tea.

We encountered multiple traffic jams on the S26 Zhuji-Yongjia Expressway.

At 14:43, we rested at Dongyang Service Area on the Zhuji-Yongjia Expressway, cumulative distance 350.0 km.

During the pandemic, most passengers getting on and off buses were wearing masks.

The car ahead with Shanghai plates was quite something, looking like a tank.

At 15:46, we rested at Pan'an Service Area on the Zhuji-Yongjia Expressway, cumulative distance 374.6 km.

At 16:03, we exited at Shuangfeng Toll Gate on the Zhuji-Yongjia Expressway, cumulative distance 396.3 km.

We left the expressway and headed for Juxi Village in Panfeng Township, Pan'an County.

Juxi Village, Panfeng Township, Pan'an County, is a sixth-batch Chinese Historic and Cultural Village. Founded in the early Southern Song Dynasty, it is home to descendants of Confucius. The village's Kong Family Ancestral Temple remains well-preserved. The founding ancestor, Kong Duangong, a 48th-generation descendant of Confucius, originally hailed from Qufu, Shandong.

The Juxi Kong Family Ancestral Temple, designated on May 25, 2006 by the State Council as a sixth-batch Major National Historical and Cultural Site protected at the national level, is classified under ancient architecture, dating from the Qing Dynasty.

The ancient village is free to explore, but entering the Kong Family Ancestral Temple requires a ticket.

We parked by the village.

We drove to Xianju County town.

On the G351 National Highway, many sections had speed limits of 40 km/h. On February 2, 2019, the section of the G351 within Xianju County opened to traffic, marking the end of the county's lack of a national highway. The G351 is a newly planned national road from Taizhou Port in Zhejiang to Xiaojin County in Sichuan Province, spanning about 2,500 km. In Zhejiang, it passes through the cities of Taizhou, Jinhua, and Quzhou.

We stayed at the Vienna International Hotel Xianju branch, in a Business Family Triple Room for 268 yuan. This branch fell short compared to Vienna Hotels we'd previously stayed at in Changxing and Shangyu, Zhejiang. There were cleanliness issues; after we pointed them out, the hotel gave us complimentary breakfast vouchers. The hotel is on Huancheng Road, but our room, facing the back, was quiet.

No dedicated parking; we had to park on the sidewalk.

In the evening, we ordered KFC delivery.

By the end of the day, we had driven 436.5 km.

October 3, 2020 (Xianju weather: sunny to cloudy, 22 to 31°C)

The view from the hotel room window.

The main street in front of the hotel.

Hotel breakfast was very basic.

At 10:56, we entered the Xianju Toll Gate on the S28 Taizhou-Jinhua Expressway, cumulative distance 441.8 km.

At 11:04, we exited at Shuangfeng Toll Gate on the Taizhou-Jinhua Expressway, cumulative distance 453.3 km.

Potan Town, Xianju County, is a fourth-batch Chinese Historic and Cultural Town. Admission: 35 yuan. As early as before 998 AD, Potan had become a bustling market town on the banks of the Yong'an River thanks to its convenient waterway access. After a thousand years of history, Potan still preserves a 'dragon'-shaped ancient street paved with cobblestones. Along the street are civilian houses and ancient residences left behind from the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, Qing dynasties, and the Republic of China period.

No residents remain on the old street now; it is said they all moved out by the end of last year.

Gaoqian Ancient Village is about 9 km from Potan Ancient Town.

Gaoqian Village, Baita Town, Xianju County, is a fifth-batch Chinese Historic and Cultural Village. Free to visit. Founded during the Yuan Dynasty, its buildings retain the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties, making it a representative ancient village in central Zhejiang. (The rest omitted in excerpt)