Yang Maolin: Morning by West Lake
On the eve of National Day 2019, I was sent by our company to lead a team of four from our East China group on a campus recruitment tour to universities in Shanghai (Fudan, Tongji, Shanghai Jiao Tong, Shanghai University of Science and Technology, East China University of Science and Technology) and Zhejiang (Zhejiang University, Zhejiang University of Technology). Over a little more than a week, we visited each school, held recruitment talks, promoted Sinopec, and introduced Tianjin Petrochemical. We caught the attention of graduates and successfully completed the mission. Back in 2019, I wrote an article about this trip on Meipian. Now, thanks to "Jinmen Net", I've compiled another piece from the photos I took by West Lake, called "Morning by West Lake".
It was precisely because we had talks at Zhejiang University and Zhejiang University of Technology that we stayed in Hangzhou for two days, lodging at the Lotus Hotel right by West Lake. It is so close to the lake that a 7–8 minute walk gets you there. This was my third visit to Hangzhou, and the beauty of West Lake has always drawn me. Not wanting to interfere with work, I could only sneak in early mornings to explore the lake, since both daytime and evening were taken up by the presentations. Only the hours before breakfast were mine. On both mornings I rose early, took my compact Leica camera, and on the first day walked the north side and the western Su Causeway. On the second day I covered the east and south shores, each walk about an hour and a half, circling the entire lake while taking pictures. I made it back to the hotel in time for breakfast, then began the day's work. All these pictures were casual snapshots taken during work breaks. Even a brief morning visit to West Lake satisfied my heart and fulfilled my wish to photograph the lake in the morning. Until now I hadn't sorted the images; on a free weekend I opened the folder and selected some for this set.
The morning glow at West Lake enchanted me. In the early hours, the lake is free of noisy tourists, without even a breath of wind. The sun had yet to rise, but morning exercisers were already arriving by the water.
A red dress like misty gauze,
Stepping out at dawn from home,
By the lake in front, each morning they come,
Three stroll leisurely around the lake.
A thin layer of morning mist rose from the water, slowly veiling the surface. Sitting quietly by the lake, I watched the changing light of dawn, drunk on the beauty. I took a picture for myself, tucking West Lake into my camera.
Now dark, now light, like a Chinese ink painting. Pavilions seemed to move in the picture, people were shadows in the scene, water flowed through the words. Bathing in the dawn, listening to the bell of Lingyin Temple in the distance, it was ethereal and serene.
A ray of morning sun shimmered on the sparkling, blue-green lake. The tinkling of a pet's collar bells struck up the morning's overture.
Morning at West Lake made me linger and forget to return. In the early hours, there was no tourist bustle, not a stir of wind. A ray of dawn glistened on the gleaming water; a thin veil of mist rose gently, shrouding the lake, draping a hazy veil over its beauty. It was mysterious yet romantic, graceful with boundless elegance. Mist like gauze on the water, the green trees, the little bridges, the pleasure boats, the blooming flowers on the banks — all seemed to wander in a fairyland, elusive and dreamlike. Tree shadows along the shore, distant blue sky merging with the hills, the chime of Lingyin Temple echoing — everything lay before my eyes, truly splendid, like a poem or painting. I especially envied the Hangzhou locals who can come here every day for their morning exercise.
Morning exercise at West Lake has no harsh music, no flamboyant square dancing, no aerobic routines with pounding rhythms. What I saw were locals in silk exercise clothes, chatting as they moved. They gather daily, talk daily, keeping healthy and relaxed.
The morning mist threw a hazy veil over the beautiful lake — mysterious, romantic, elegant. The best time to see West Lake is early morning, when tourists are few, the scenery is beautiful, and photos come out clean and simple.
Mist on the lake like gauze; green trees, small bridges, pleasure boats, fresh flowers on the bank — to be there is like wandering in a fairyland, elusive and dreamlike.
The air by the lake is good and rich in negative ions. Sitting on a lakeside bench, gazing at the water, listening to birdsong, watching the morning exercisers — it brightens your mood for the whole day.
With a better environment, birds are happy to come to West Lake to forage and play. The water quality is excellent, full of snails, fish, and shrimp, which naturally keep the birds here. Often you can see silver gulls along the shore. These water birds, beautiful in shape and with pleasant calls, add much vitality to the lake and bring joy to residents and visitors.
This was my third visit to West Lake. By late September the lake had no blossoms nor snow, no spring radiance, and the autumn mood was still faint. These two mornings, the lake was filled with mist. When the sun emerged, the hills and water were all a blur. It was just like Su Dongpo's poem: "The brimming water in sunlight looks fine; the misty mountains in rain are also divine." West Lake accommodates both quiet beauty and lively beauty. The morning is silent and still; the daytime is filled with laughter and song across the lake.
I still prefer the early morning at West Lake. On the broad, smooth paving by the lake, an ordinary-looking granny was writing Chinese characters on the ground with a water brush, while Tai Chi practitioners moved gracefully nearby. A rich cultural atmosphere slowly seeped through the strokes, vigorous and nimble. They brought the first rhythm of the day to the tranquil lake. To me, West Lake only belongs to Hangzhou locals in the morning; only in the early hours, before the tourists arrive, can it be truly quiet.
Two seemingly ordinary grannies were 'flinging ink' on the bank. They held specially made brushes and dipped water to write calligraphy on the ground. The lines of their writing were thick and thin, their movements fast and slow, with turns, pauses, pressing and lifting — the beauty of lines reflected in each stroke. The process of writing calms the mind, regulates the breath, and is good for health. Ground calligraphy combined with Tai Chi in one picture: a rich cultural flavor slowly permeated in the vigour and agility.
The lotus pond at dawn is peaceful, serene, and enchanting. Rippling water, emerald lotus leaves, swaying willows — all forming a faint ink-wash painting that seeps into the heart. A fan dance beside the lotus wafted their fragrance about; the silk kung fu jackets exuded the leisure of Hangzhou life — a typical Hangzhou scene. Unwittingly your heart quiets, and all vexations vanish in a moment.
Morning exercise encircles the whole lake, but is most concentrated on the eastern side. People disperse into different areas on the bank, doing all kinds of activities: tai chi, sword practice, shadowboxing, various dances — you name it. Relaxing muscles and joints, healthy and sunny. Nestled by West Lake, it's a natural oxygen bar.
Rippling water and graceful human figures blend in harmony. Amid the bustle, there is quiet and harmony; everyone is engaged in an activity they love. Morning exercise brings health, motivation, and a spirit refreshed.
On the tai chi ground, every move, every stance, relaxed and controlled; each breath, calm and full of spirit. Silk clothes flutter, giving off a touch of ethereal grace. Morning exercise brings fresh air and a sunny outlook on life.
A master teaching a disciple sword techniques; a son pushing an elderly person to view the lake — a harmonious scene, a natural moment. Everything so natural, life's rhythm everywhere. This is the picture of Hangzhou locals' morning by West Lake.
If speaking of water, West Lake cannot match Taihu or Erhai; if speaking of mountains, the twin peaks of West Lake cannot compare with Yandang or Huangshan. Why then is West Lake so celebrated, drawing countless visitors? It's because the lake and hills reflect each other, complementing one another, in endless variations. Here nature and culture merge; the natural beauty and the ideal beauty combine to reach the pinnacle of aesthetics. That is where the beauty of West Lake truly lies.
What is it like for the Hangzhou people who live near such a beautiful lake? I was curious too. Searching online, I found some answers and paired them with my pictures.
"Living by West Lake for a long time, whenever I have time I go for a stroll. At 4 a.m. the lake feels wonderful — nobody around, it's like the entire lake is my own backyard garden. I have a less famous but very atmospheric walking route, avoiding Broken Bridge — actually the bridge isn't that impressive anyway." In the picture, behind the runner is Su Causeway, and the shadow in the background is Broken Bridge. I didn't have a tripod when I took this; I placed the camera on a small stone block and used a slow shutter speed as the morning runner passed. Su Causeway and Broken Bridge form the backdrop.
Another person said: "I've lived by West Lake for over 20 years. I can lie in bed, open the window, and see the lake. A three-minute walk and I'm on Broken Bridge. West Lake is like my backyard. When I was little, after dinner my parents would take me strolling on the Bai Causeway. But," he added, "I've been waiting for the demolition. Our house is over a hundred years old, the floorboards are rotting, creaking when you walk. The wiring is old; flipping on the microwave trips the circuit. It's damp by the lake; anything not in a sealed box will soon grow mould. People easily get eczema and skin allergies." That sounds like something this old grandpa might say: West Lake is beautiful, but the lakeside residents have their woes amid the beauty.
"Some say I have seen West Lake in all four seasons. But I can proudly declare I've seen the lake in all 24 hours. At 3 a.m., standing by the water, it is so quiet it feels as if the entire lake belongs to you. On fine days, my wife and I sit on a bench by the lake, quietly watching West Lake. My enjoyment is a state of detachment; the tourists around me are invisible to me. Gazing at the distant hills and lake, listening to music, checking messages on my phone — we can sit for a very long time. Sometimes a little squirrel unafraid of people comes down to forage, drawing a crowd. We just smile and stay silent. You tourists are just passing through; we are the real regulars of West Lake. Thinking of this, I'm endlessly grateful to live by the lake." Could that have been said by these two elderly folks?
"Accompanying me is the best love. 'Old partner, old partner — a companion in old age.' When the weather is fine, I push my wife to the lake every morning. After a spin, we feel good all day." West Lake really nourishes people.
Spring Dawn on Su Causeway, Lingering Snow on Broken Bridge, Evening Bell at Nanping Hill, Sunset Glow at Leifeng Pagoda, Autumn Moon Over the Calm Lake — these famous sights I couldn't appreciate in their full seasonal glory because I wasn't there at the right time. But I saw a different human landscape: Hangzhou locals in the early morning by the lake. I walked all the way around West Lake, focusing on the shore, yet my eyes often strayed to the scenic beauty within the lake — it drew me too, but I simply had no time to photograph it. I noticed the weeping willows on the bank are especially extraordinary. Each tree stands elegant and handsome, full of grace; their slender branches droop as if boneless, twisting their slender waists, swaying like a woman's beautiful long hair, bestowing all a lifetime of tenderness, romance, and affection on this Hangzhou West Lake. The scenery of West Lake has attracted countless literati and photography lovers. While I photographed people on the shore, I also captured those photographing the beautiful scenery — people within beautiful scenery, photographing it. Like them, I put West Lake into my camera to take home, for the sake of the love and emotion of the moment.
On Su Causeway's Broken Bridge, a photography enthusiast, like me, had come to photograph the early morning lake. The red sun had just risen; he stood on the bridge shooting backlit West Lake and the Hangzhou cityscape. Someone next to him was photographing him, and I photographed them both. He shot the scenery; I shot the people. They used professional DSLRs; I used a portable Leica compact.
I heard this is a "zombie dance" — slow, soft, rhythmic. Such a scene suits silhouettes. I manually reduced the exposure by three stops, creating a "zombie" feel in "paradise." I didn't find it scary; rather, I thought it quite beautiful. Against the grand backdrop of West Lake, everything seems beautiful.
When I saw this scene, I lifted my camera and shot without a moment's hesitation. The movement, composition, colours, and the instant of the leg stretch were all perfectly captured. Look closely — everything is just right. The bright red figure stands out; the stretch shows movement and long-term dedication to exercise. The person sitting on the chair seems not to know the one in red, but their chance encounter by the lake, one still and one moving, creates a mutual echo and balance. The tree in the middle is perfectly set off by the white, hazy background. The whole image feels harmonious. In earlier series I've shown, you'll see martial arts and water calligraphy, sword practice and wheelchair pushing — seemingly unrelated, yet captured in one picture, harmonious and intriguing.
West Lake has much humidity, but the flowers and plants on the bank still need watering. In the instant the water splashed, a thin mist shrouded the trees and grass, adding a sense of movement to the quiet morning.
The upper half circle is in motion, the lower half is still; the half circles enclose the jump-roper. Only by capturing the right instant can you achieve the ideal picture in your mind. Rope jumping is like drawing an arc around oneself and constantly hopping inside — a voluntary, forced enclosure, like the circle that the monk Tang drew for Sun Wukong. This solitary self-enclosure contrasts with the immense space of West Lake, creating a visual association. Plus, compared to the person on the lower right facing the lake (facing outward, while the jumper faces inward) there is another contrast. The picture gains a certain meaning. Actually, all of this was subconscious, captured in an instant while passing by.
A beam of rose-coloured morning light fell on the stone balustrade at the waterfront. Right then, an auntie in a blue silk exercise outfit was stretching her leg on that very balustrade. I had actually already passed by, but when I looked back, I felt it met the image I wanted, and pressed the shutter without hesitation. That's the advantage of a small camera: raise and shoot, unnoticed. The vertical stone balustrade and the upward-curving iron chain seem to lift the person up; stillness contains motion. The splash of blue silk is especially vivid against the white mist on the lake.
A couple on holiday, both photography enthusiasts, kept shooting the lovely scene, unable to stop. One dressed brightly, the other plainly, but their lenses pointed in the same direction.
At the end of September, the lotus leaves by the shore were still green. Stop the car and look: some leaves are turning yellow; autumn has truly arrived.
On Su Causeway, I saw a young woman pulling a red suitcase, walking and stopping, constantly taking pictures with her phone. Had she just got off a plane? Or was she looking for a place to stay? So eager to drink in the beauty of West Lake.
From her small backpack, I guessed this girl might be from out of town, visiting Hangzhou for the first time. She had bought a silk
qipao and had come to the lake early, clearly excited, ceaselessly taking selfies from different angles to share on social media. To observe something, watch the details and seize the typical moment that reveals its character — one picture can do it.
Wearing bright clothes on the bank of West Lake is also a beautiful sight in itself.
A family or a team? I couldn't tell. Their cheerful voices drew my attention; in the quiet morning, this group really stood out. When I shot, I placed the person holding the clothes in the centre to enrich the picture.
The "Morning by West Lake" series was an inspiration that struck me right on the lake's edge. During my three days in Hangzhou, I went to West Lake two mornings, usually arriving a little past 5 a.m. and shooting until the sun came out. I photographed the elderly doing morning exercise, the earliest tourists arriving at the lake, and the joy of first-time visitors.
To capture the most authentic state of people by West Lake without drawing attention, I used a small compact camera. I tried not to disturb anyone or disrupt the easygoing atmosphere, quietly taking these pictures myself. I like works that express or reveal the real state of society.
Everyone has their own impression of West Lake, but most people notice the scenery within the lake; few focus on what's around it. My pictures truthfully record the lakeside morning exercisers.
Thank you to all friends for your continuous attention.
Author: Yang Maolin, for Jinmen Net
