Tonglu: Seeking a Secluded Paradise in the Jiangnan Mountains and Waters
Having traveled through all the mountains and waters of the Three Wu regions, I still say Tonglu's scenery is the most beautiful.
Having lived in Hangzhou for a long time, I've grown tired of the gentle West Lake and the vast Xixi Wetlands. Instead, I find myself increasingly nostalgic for the beautiful small city of Tonglu, a hidden gem in the Jiangnan region.
"From Fuyang to Tonglu, a hundred li of extraordinary mountains and waters, unique under heaven."
Tonglu sits right at the midpoint of this spring-fed river, with picturesque scenery on both banks. Embraced by the Fuchun River landscape, it boasts unparalleled beauty, earning the title "China's Painting City" and serving as the real-life setting for the famous painting Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains.
Situated at the golden intersection of "three rivers and two lakes," Tonglu has been famed since ancient times for its green mountains, clear waters, long history, and serene environment. Whether it's the multi-hued forested mountains, the shimmering blue waters, the magnificent karst caves, or the elegant fishing platforms, the scenery and the tranquil, peaceful lifestyle evoke a sense of lasting contentment amidst the rising kitchen smoke.
As April begins and spring is in full bloom, come with me to explore Tonglu.
DAY 1: Yaolin Wonderland – Stay in Red Lantern Log Cabins
DAY 2: Yan Ziling Fishing Platform & Fuchun River Mini Three Gorges – Daqi Mountain National Forest Park – Tongjun Mountain
Yaolin Wonderland: Admiring the Exquisite Cave
How can you come to Tonglu without visiting Yaolin Wonderland!
Starting from Hangzhou, it takes about an hour and a half to reach Yaolin Wonderland, the most famous limestone cave in the area, also known as Yaolin Cave, formed 100,000 years ago and listed among China's top 40 tourist attractions.
The cave extends one kilometer deep, covering 28,000 square meters. It is a typical karst landform, renowned for its magical terrain and colorful stalactite formations, representing a classic example of subtropical humid karst caves in the central-eastern coastal region of East China.
The Song Dynasty poet Ke Yuezhai had the foresight to compare this cave to a fairyland. In the 12th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty, Tonglu magistrate Yang Baoyi officially named it "Yaolin Wonderland." According to the guide, TV series like Journey to the West and The Investiture of the Gods were filmed here.
After passing the ticket gate, descend the stone steps for a dozen meters to reach the cave entrance. The initial section is about three to four meters wide and two to three meters high, with a starry ceiling that glitters like a night sky, crystal clear and serene, exuding pure romance.
Yaolin Wonderland is divided into three cave halls, with four must-see sights: "Galaxy Waterfall," "Sky-Holding Jade Pillar," "Thirty-Three Heavens," and "Yaolin Jade Peak."
Accompanied by the murmuring of underground water, you first arrive at the first hall. Measuring 135 meters long and 20 to 40 meters wide, it is the richest and most concentrated area in the cave, with the "Galaxy Waterfall" being the most eye-catching.
Although it's just a rock formation, it resembles a flowing waterfall; though silent, it seems to carry a faint thunderous sound, reminding one of Li Bai's poetic line: 'Its torrent dashes down three thousand feet from high, As if the Silver River fell from the blue sky.'
Continuing through the cave, the path twists and turns, rising and falling, sometimes climbing upward. Occasionally, where there seems no way forward, the view suddenly opens up, evoking the feeling of "mountains multiply, streams double back—I doubt there's even a road; willows cluster darkly, blossoms shine—another village ahead!"
Walking on the winding, damp stone paths is particularly atmospheric. Occasionally, a drop or two of natural cave water drips down unexpectedly, landing on visitors' foreheads and leaving a refreshing coolness.
You might not know that Yaolin Wonderland now features a naked-eye 3D light show. By integrating sound, lighting, mist, projection, and other high-tech methods, it blends brilliant lighting effects and stunning sci-fi scenes with the cave's unique natural wonders, showcasing the beauty of nature, space, layers, and form from multiple angles. The wonderland has entered its 4.0 era!
A cave becomes famous not for its depth, but for the immortals within.
The cave, adorned with delicate rock formations, is lit with colorful lamps, making the dark underground river shimmer in multicolored hues. Upon closer look, every spot seems to have its own unique and fascinating form. The massive stone waterfall, dense stalagmites, towering pillars, and serene pools create a powerful visual impact.
In the second hall, the "Sky-Holding Jade Pillar" stands on a rugged cliff at the far end, towering 14 meters high with a diameter of about 4 meters, exuding an extraordinary grandeur.
Walking inside, if not for the dim light, you'd forget you're in a cave; it feels more like mountain climbing. One could say the mountain has a cave, and the cave has a mountain, overlapping and continuous. Such a richly diverse composite cave is truly breathtaking!
The most famous feature of the third hall is the "Thirty-Three Heavens," a profusion of stalagmites stacked in layers, reminiscent of the Western Paradise, hence its name.
The varied stalactites can resemble high mountains or lotus basins; shaped like bamboo shoots or pillars; vast and magnificent or delicately charming. They evoke scenes from ancient poetry or TV dramas, sparking endless imagination and wonder. Only then does one realize that the "hidden world beyond a cave" is so uniquely enchanting.
The formation of karst caves is not the work of a day; eons of mountain-building and nature's masterful craftsmanship created this magical realm. Entering the cave is like stepping into a fairyland. Each naturally formed stalactite has traveled through distant time, shaped by ages to appear before us as we see them today.
Emerging from the cave back into the outside world gives one an illusion of time travel. Passing through a charming bamboo grove, with verdant mountains and a clear sky, a gentle breeze stirs the green waves, and the rustling sounds are deeply magnificent. Enjoying the scenery is utterly delightful!
Yaolin Wonderland Travel Tips:
Tickets: Regular ticket 116 RMB; half-price for children 1.2m-1.5m; free for children under 1.2m.
Opening hours: April 1–October 31: 08:00-16:00; November 1–March 31: 08:30-15:30.
Address: North foot of Camel Mountain, Dongqian Village, south of Fenshui River, Yaolin Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou.
How to get there: From Hangzhou West Bus Station, take a bus to Fenshui and get off at Tonglu County Forest Farm, then walk 10 minutes. Alternatively, take a bus to Tonglu, then transfer to a minibus to Yaolin.
(1) Parking at Yaolin Wonderland: approximately ¥10 per visit.
(2) The cave floor is slippery; walk carefully. It's best to wear non-slip flat shoes.
Staying at Red Lantern: Resting in Forest-Style Cabins
After returning from Yaolin Wonderland, we checked into the nearby Red Lantern Log Cabins.
The resort is designed based on the Jiangnan folk saying, "If you want to eat, go to your mother-in-law's; if you want to play, go to your grandmother's." Entering the village, you'll see quaint log cabins scattered among the hillside woods, with winding corridors. Yellow is the base color, with fir plank roofs, accented by over 2,000 red lanterns of various sizes, standing out vividly against the green mountains and waters.
The visitor reception is a uniquely shaped building resembling a large red lantern, which feels perfectly harmonious, reflecting the Red Lantern theme of the rural home.
The quaint wooden cabins are named "Mountain Flower Village" and "Rice Fragrance Village," scattered among the green hills and trees. The guest rooms are spread out, each a standalone cabin villa.
Inside the cabins, you'll find color TV, air conditioning, and full sanitary facilities, similar to city hotels, with all the necessary amenities.
Each cabin is named after flowers and plants like rose, narcissus, red bean, water lily, wisteria, orchid, exuding a strong rustic charm.
If you still have time and energy, why not climb the hill with friends for a distant view? Looking out, with streams winding in front and misty green mountains behind, the cabins with their dark tiles and green walls, surrounded by bamboo, present a thousand postures and a unique style, full of rural charm, with a poetic ambiance that cities cannot match.
Descending the hill, it's mealtime. The restaurant at Red Lantern Resort faces the Tianmu Stream, shaded by green trees in a tranquil setting.
It's known for its local Tonglu cuisine, especially fresh fish from the Tianmu Stream. After coming down, we sat with friends, and dishes were served: assorted Tianmu fish, saltwater river shrimp, braised free-range chicken, stir-fried spring bamboo shoots... Tonglu is a land of fish and rice, living off the mountains and waters. The cuisine is indeed rustic and farmhouse-style, with fresh, natural ingredients. April is the best season for bamboo shoots, so we ordered many local green shoots, exceptionally fresh.
Tongjun Mountain: Visiting the Ancestral Home of Medicine
The first ray of morning light slips through the curtain gap. Pushing open the door, I step onto the wooden viewing terrace, greeted by greenery and shimmering light in the distance. Breathing the fresh air and enjoying the negative ions is truly refreshing.
After packing up, we headed to Tongjun Mountain.
Tongjun Mountain lies at the confluence of the Fuchun and Fenshui rivers, just across the water from Tonglu county town, making it the nearest attraction. It was anciently called Little Gold Mountain or Floating Jade Mountain. Legend has it that the "ancestor of Chinese medicine," Elder Tongjun, built a hut here under a parasol tree, researching medicine and treating illness, giving rise to the beautiful county name "Tonglu."
Tongjun Mountain is quite small, only about 60 meters high, and can be toured in under an hour. For locals, it is a spiritual anchor, a place to think of when away and feel nostalgic when returning. Generations of literati have commemorated Tongjun in verse: Yuan Dynasty poet Fang Hui wrote, "Ask his name, he points to the parasol tree; its offspring endure forever. I know he learned from Shennong, yet no record passed to the Grand Historian." Ming Dynasty Sun Gang wrote, "Taking the tree as his surname and a hut as his name, for generations he's a recluse." Liang Qichao praised it as "a corner of a lovely eyebrow." From the Tang Dynasty to the Republican era, cliff carvings with calligraphy by famous masters can be found here.
Entering the gate, a statue of Elder Tongjun sits in the center, surrounded by statues of famous physicians through the ages.
Stepping onto the path up Tongjun Mountain, you climb stone steps under the mingling shadows of mountains and trees. The woods are lush, bamboo provides shade, and the sky peeks through only in patches, mostly hidden by trees, many of which are old. The air is always tinged with a faint herbal fragrance.
Walking uphill, the breeze caresses your face, and branches tug at your clothes. Passing the Medicine Ancestor Hall guarded by tortoise and crane statues, you reach the top. The Tongjun Pagoda, a seven-story solid tower 20 meters high, stands there—a landmark of Tonglu county town.
Looking up at the white tower piercing the clouds, a few small birds circle the tip like black dots. It brings to mind the words of Song Dynasty statesman Fan Zhongyan: "Bells ring from three mountain pagodas, tides calm at Seven-Mile Shoal."
To the right of the pagoda hangs a 4,000-kilogram "Bailing Bell," draped with red prayer ribbons bearing people's good wishes. Every New Year's Eve, villagers toll it 108 times, and the sound carries for a hundred li. "Morning Bell of Tongjun Mountain" is a famous sight here.
On the other side, at a riverside corner of the summit, stands the "Four-View Pavilion" with upswept eaves. The deep, lingering sound of the bronze bell echoes through the valley from time to time.
Climbing the mountain, you enjoy the lovely scenery, listen to the legend of the hermit, and reflect on past and present.
Standing in the pavilion on the summit, the Fuchun River lies before me, below me. In the distance, the new Jiangnan town reflects in the water, forming a perfect landscape painting.
Travel Tips:
Opening hours: 08:30-16:30
Address: Intersection of Fenshui River and Tong River, Tonglu County, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
How to get there: Buses from Hangzhou West Bus Station and South Bus Station (express) go directly to Tonglu. From Tonglu county town, take a tricycle or taxi to Tongjun Mountain Scenic Area, or walk across the suspension bridge to reach it directly.
Daqi Mountain: Seeking the Number One Mountain of Jiangnan
Leaving Tongjun Mountain, we headed to the nearby Daqi Mountain National Forest Park!
A trip to Tonglu is incomplete without visiting Daqi Mountain.
Daqi Mountain, also known as "Saiji Mountain," lies on the south bank of the Fuchun River. It's a comprehensive forest park blending Jiangnan landscapes with grassland scenery, famed for its mountains, bizarre rocks, gorges, streams, and waterfalls, characterized as grand, perilous, peculiar, elegant, and vast. Blue waters, tall bamboo, and pure air are its calling cards. Along the way, streams and springs, colorful koi swimming, waterfalls, and a natural oxygen bar live up to its reputation. With its unique and majestic terrain, it has historically been called "the Number One Mountain of Jiangnan."
The route is fairly straightforward: enter the park, follow the left-hand trail (Shijingyuan Grand Canyon) uphill to a waterfall at the top. On the way back, turn right at the Zhiqing Canal and descend. There are almost no other branches; simply follow the clockwise loop on the footpath, and you won't get lost. Most visitors can complete the circuit in two to three hours at a comfortable pace.
Upon entering, you pass through a lush bamboo grove where spring shoots after rain are poking through the soil beside the older bamboo. The path is secluded, evoking a sense of leisure and tranquility. The bamboo stands well-spaced, not at all crowded, vigorous yet graceful.
Inside the scenic area, you'll see emerald pools and waterfalls everywhere. The shallow water is clear as a mirror, the deep water green as jade—perfect for photos. There's also a "shouting spring" amusement, where visitors of all ages can participate. By shouting or singing, you make a fountain spray; the louder your voice, the higher the spray shoots.
Going deeper, it feels like a forest playground!
Past the bamboo grove, you come to a place at the foot of the mountain called Green Paradise, featuring a variety of challenging activities: swings, balance bridges, rope bridges, and more. Those interested can enjoy the rustic fun of farm-style amusement.
After passing the playground, you truly enter the heart of Daqi Mountain. Walking along a cobblestone path, the highlight is the Shijingyuan Canyon. The trail winds along the mountainside—sometimes meandering, sometimes narrow, with many twists and turns. Streams accompany you all the way, adding rustic delight, and waterfalls, suspension bridges, and pavilions dot the path.
The mountains are dark green, with sheer rocky cliffs. Every ancient tree, every peak, every pavilion, every whiff of incense seems imbued with spiritual charm, silent in the devotion of passing ages.
The suspension bridge here is quite entertaining. It has two railings anchored to the cliffs on both sides, with a safety net underneath. The deck consists of connected, movable wooden planks. When people walk on it, the bridge sways with the weight. Some mischievous friends deliberately shake it, startling fellow visitors into shrieks and bursts of laughter.
Stopping by a rocky pool, you see scattered stones lying still and clear water leaping. The water is so transparent you can see the bottom; there are variously shaped pebbles, aquatic plants, and small fish swimming leisurely. While chatting, a glance downward reveals another scene of gentle beauty.
Walking in the mountains, you inevitably come across waterfalls and streams of different sizes. Immersed in the landscape, you might find yourself chanting poetry in the serene depths of stone valleys. The verdant peaks and steep cliffs, combined with a breeze carrying the scent of flowers, merge with the trickling streams into a scene that could be a poem, freezing into a tranquil picture of lakes and mountains.
The park is rich in water features, with abundant moisture and deep pools one after another. The water is exceptionally green and clear, almost always see-through to the bottom, with koi swimming leisurely—utterly delightful!
Passing by a stone-paved path that divides a green pool, one side is a tinkling water-curtain cave, the other a mirror-like lake. The water is so green and clear, with the sound of droplets like pearls falling on a jade plate. The contrast between the two sides—one lively, the other serene—is particularly interesting.
Throughout the journey, verdant mountains, clear waters, blue skies, and white clouds fill your view. After crossing a thrilling rope bridge, you reach the Heavenly Pool, a name that sounds beautiful like many scenic spots. Though not large, the water is crystal clear and azure, nestled halfway up the mountain, as if you've been transported to Jiuzhaigou.
On the way down, I highly recommend trying the "Forest Flying Squirrel" ride. Sit in a small car like a bumper car, fasten your seatbelt, and the cars are linked together, zipping along a forest track—it's exhilarating!
Travel Tips:
Ticket: 52 RMB
Opening hours: 08:30-15:30 (Jan 1–Dec 31, Mon–Sun)
Address: Daqi Mountain Road, Tonglu County, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
How to get there: From Tonglu county town long-distance bus station, take bus No. 20 directly to Daqi Mountain National Forest Park.
Yan Ziling Fishing Platform: Admiring the Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains
The finest landscapes in the world, past and present, are praised on the Fuchun River.
Tonglu's Fuchun River has long been called the "Mini Three Gorges," and the Yan Ziling Fishing Platform by its bank is a must-visit spring outing destination.
Located 15 km southwest of Tonglu county town on the Fuchun River, Yan Ziling Fishing Platform is said to be where Yan Ziling, a noble recluse of the Eastern Han Dynasty, lived in seclusion and fished. It's named after him.
Legend has it that Yan Ziling studied with Liu Xiu in his youth. After Liu Xiu became emperor, Yan refused to serve in government, changed his name, and lived in seclusion, "wearing a sheepskin coat and fishing in the marshes." The emperor repeatedly invited him with great ceremony, offering him the post of Grand Adviser, but Yan still "refused, and tilled the land on Fuchun Mountain." He later died at home at age 80. Yan Ziling's willingness to endure hardship and his indifference to fame and fortune have been admired by later generations. Literary figures like Li Bai, Fan Zhongyan, Su Shi, Lu You, Li Qingzhao, Yu Dafu, Guo Moruo, and Ba Jin all visited the fishing platform, leaving behind many poems of praise.
The area is divided into three sections: the Fishing Platform, Fuchun River Mini Three Gorges, and Jiangnan Longmen Bay. It is acclaimed as the "Number One of China's Top Ten Fishing Platforms." The famous Yuan Dynasty painter Huang Gongwang's Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains has made this place known worldwide.
To reach Yan Ziling Fishing Platform, you need to take a boat across the river. First, take a boat from the pier for a scenic loop on the Fuchun River (which is touted as touring the Mini Three Gorges), then dock at the pier in front of the fishing platform.
As the boat cruises on the Fuchun River, peaks on both banks overlap, appearing and disappearing in the mist, unfurling a splash-ink landscape scroll—truly a living Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains.
Standing at the bow, a cool breeze blows across the river. The green mountains reflect in the water, as if one is touring within a painting. The stretch of the Fuchun River in front of the fishing platform resembles the famous Three Gorges of the Yangtze, hence its nickname "Fuchun River Mini Three Gorges."
After about half an hour, you can see on the north bank a few traditional Jiangnan houses with green bricks and white tiles, as well as pavilions and towers scattered among the hillside and trees along the river. That is Yan Ziling Fishing Platform, the foremost of the top ten fishing platforms.
From afar, you can see a modern screen wall with black tiles and white walls behind the pier, inscribed with "Yan Ziling Fishing Platform – The Number One Sight Under Heaven" in seal script. Stepping ashore, a memorial archway stands facing the water. On its front, "Yan Ziling Fishing Platform" is written prominently by the contemporary eminent monk Zhao Puchu.
On the back of the archway, "Eternal as the Mountains, Flowing as the Rivers" is inscribed by the famous calligrapher Sha Menghai. The archway appears quite ancient, its construction date unknown. Just a few days ago, Zhen Huan and Deng Chao took photos from the same angle here.
Here you can savor fragrant tea, listen to the "singing fish," admire ancient pines, visit the stele garden, or play chess and cards. You're sure to find a spot where your whole being merges with the intoxicating natural and cultural scenery.
Climbing the stone steps up the modest Fuchun Mountain, the path is shaded by dense woods, tall ancient trees, groves of bamboo, and trailing green vines. Every scene is enchanting. Midway up, you reach the fishing platforms. There are two: the East Platform and the West Platform, hence the scenic spot is also called "Twin Platforms for Fishing." Each is nearly 70 meters high, accessible by stone steps. The East Platform is where Yan Ziling fished; the West Platform is where Xie Ao of the Southern Song Dynasty mourned Wen Tianxiang. From the West Platform summit, the sky and landscape are pristine, with a breathtaking view of sky and mountains merging into one.
Not far away, the Fuchun River is serene yet dynamic, a fairyland in people's hearts. The dark green river, dotted with sails and rippling waves, standing against the wind is transcendentally pure. The scenery is just as described by Wu Jun of the Six Dynasties in his Letter to Zhu Yuanshi: "From Fuyang to Tonglu, a hundred li of extraordinary mountains and waters, unique under heaven."
A fine mountain breeze brushes past the ear, exceptionally comfortable. On both banks, green mountains stand in rows, and among the trees and bamboo, you occasionally spot white-walled, green-tiled houses, evoking a sense of secluded ease. This quintessential Jiangnan landscape is indeed as fresh and exquisite as its reputation.
Travel Tips:
Ticket: 125 RMB
Opening hours: Apr 1–Oct 31: 08:00-16:00; Nov 1–Mar 31: 08:30-15:30
Address: Qililong Section, Fuchun River Town, Tonglu County, Hangzhou
How to get there: Self-driving recommended
"Where the Qiantang River ends, Tonglu lies, with waters so blue and mountains so green that paintings pale," and "Bright mountains, tender waters, the elegant Tonglu prefecture, boundless scenery beyond the gaze, how can words ever suffice?" These familiar poetic lines make one sigh with admiration. Tonglu is indeed a leisurely and exquisitely serene small city, where clouds drift and time slips away. Delving into its landscapes, it seems every brick and tile has its own story.
In just two days, I experienced Tonglu's slow-paced life, with endless green mountains and blue waters. My best friend and I made a pact to return in summer to escape the heat, seeking a secluded spot of tranquility and leisurely freedom.
Travel Tips for Your Reference
1. About Tonglu
Tonglu is under the jurisdiction of Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, situated in the middle reaches of the Qiantang River, with the Fuchun River running diagonally through it. It has a long history and a gathering of cultural talents, known as "a place blessed with natural beauty and a land of grace and civilization." Northern Song Dynasty minister Fan Zhongyan marveled at its extraordinary scenery and praised it as "Elegant Tonglu."
Since ancient times, Tonglu has been famed for its green mountains, clear waters, long history, and secluded environment, often called "extraordinary mountains and waters, unique under heaven." The city is clean and fresh with tree-lined streets, while the countryside features harmonious white-walled, dark-tiled houses. Birdsong is everywhere, and flowers scent the air—a city of picturesque landscapes.
2. About Transportation
The most convenient way to reach Tonglu is by car, as you can drive directly to the scenic spots. It takes about three and a half hours from Shanghai and about one and a half hours from Hangzhou. Roadside parking is available near the scenic areas.
(1) Visitors from Shanghai, Jiangsu, Ningbo, Shaoxing, Taizhou: G25 Changchun-Shenzhen Expressway (Hangzhou-Xin'an River-Jingdezhen section, exit at Tonglu) → S05 Provincial Road → S16 Provincial Road → enter the scenic area.
(2) Visitors from Wenzhou, Quzhou, Jiangxi, Lishui: G25 Expressway → Hangzhou-Xin'an River-Jingdezhen section, exit at Fuchun River, head toward Fenshui → G320 National Road → S16 Provincial Road → enter the scenic area.
(3) Visitors from Huangshan: Hangzhou-Huangshan Expressway (exit at Yuqian, head toward Fenshui) → Fenshui (toward Tonglu) → S16 Provincial Road → enter the scenic area.
3. About Accommodation
There are many places to stay in Tonglu. For those on a two-day trip with enough time, I recommend staying overnight to enjoy a local farm-cooked meal and experience the leisurely pastoral life. Staying near the scenic spots makes getting around much easier. There are both guesthouses and hotels; just choose according to your needs.
