Tonglu, Zhejiang: Stepping into a Real-Life 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains' – A 2-Day, 1-Night Itinerary
A Few Words Before We Begin
The landscapes of Zhejiang are just like the women of Jiangnan—exquisitely charming in every way.
This is what I've come to realize after visiting many popular travel spots in Zhejiang over the years, and that's why I'm always enchanted by this land, returning to many places for a second, third time…
Sometimes I go back because I had unfinished business the first time; other times, the place is so wonderful that I feel a sense of attachment; and yet other times, the scenery and culture have etched themselves into my heart, demanding to be rediscovered and savored again and again.
Just like Tonglu in Zhejiang, which hides a living scroll: 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains'.
'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains' is one of China's top ten famous paintings passed down through history, hailed as the 'Lanting of paintings' (referring to the renowned calligraphy masterpiece), a national treasure. Set against the backdrop of the Fuchun River in Zhejiang, the painting uses light, elegant ink with a masterful balance of mountain and water elements, combining dry and wet strokes in rich variation. While we can only admire such a masterpiece from afar, Tonglu possesses a real-life version of 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains,' drawing visitors from all over.
A poem by Liu Siwan of the Qing Dynasty goes: 'Each bend of green hills a folding screen, / Each curve of clear water a sounding zither. / Silent poetry and audible painting, / Must be sought on the Tonglu River.' Such beautiful lines describe the landscapes of the Fuchun River.
The Fuchun River flows through Tonglu and Fuyang in Zhejiang. Its banks are lush with verdant hills, the water so clear you can see the bottom—often called 'Little Three Gorges' and praised as 'the finest landscape under heaven, from ancient times to now, the best is Fuchun.' The natural scenery along the river is stunning, especially the Tonglu section, which once visited, you never truly leave.
Day 1: Drive from Shanghai to Tonglu's Daqi Mountain National Forest Park. After lunch, delve into Yaolin Wonderland. In the evening, enjoy a night cruise on the Fuchun River.
Day 2: Visit Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace, then head back to Shanghai after lunch.
About Transportation and Accommodation
We drove from Shanghai to Tonglu, about a 3-hour journey. We stayed in the central area of Tonglu County. What struck me most was how bustling the county is—you can find everything here, hotels of all kinds. Because our itinerary wasn't concentrated in one spot, staying in the county seat was most convenient; nowhere was too far.
We chose to drive because the sights are scattered in different directions around Tonglu, making a car the most convenient option. But you can also take the high-speed train from Shanghai to Tonglu. Start with Daqi Mountain National Forest Park, which is very close to the station, then visit other areas by bus or taxi.
Many might wonder: Who is Yan Ziling? What history and culture lie behind this place?
Let's start with Yan Ziling.
Many of us often say, 'I'd love to live in seclusion.' In fact, Yan Ziling was such a hermit, way back in the early Eastern Han Dynasty. He was a close friend and sworn brother of Liu Xiu, who later became Emperor Guangwu. But Yan didn't care for fame or fortune; he resolutely hid away among the beautiful rivers and hills of the Fuchun River, farming and fishing as a recluse. After Liu Xiu became emperor, he invited Yan to the capital three times, but Yan preferred life by the water to an official career, so he lived in seclusion here on the banks of the Fuchun River in Tonglu.
To reach the fishing terrace from the scenic area entrance, take a boat. A speedboat takes just 3 minutes, while a sightseeing boat lets you slowly appreciate the Fuchun River scenery—a delight in itself. Upon arrival, the large characters 'Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace – The Number One Sight Under Heaven' stand out boldly. Such an elegant spot is perhaps most enchanting here by the Fuchun River.
Since ancient times, the Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace has been a must-visit for literati and poets, including Li Bai, Fan Zhongyan, Meng Haoran, Su Shi, Lu You, Li Qingzhao, Zhu Xi, Zhang Jun, Kang Youwei, Yu Dafu, Zhang Daqian, Chen Yi, Guo Moruo, Ba Jin, and many others. Disembark and you'll see a forest of steles; from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Qing Dynasty, over 1,000 poets and writers came here, leaving behind more than 2,000 poems. The ancients loved it, and so do modern celebrities. Earlier this year, the famous actor couple Deng Chao and Sun Li paid a low-key visit, causing quite a stir.
Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace consists of two parts: the riverside area at the foot of the hill, and the hilltop where the actual fishing terraces are located. You can explore the lower area to soak in the culture, then hike up to gain an even deeper understanding. Finally, visit the East and West fishing terraces where Yan Ziling fished, and check out the photo spots made famous by Deng Chao and Sun Li—truly delightful.
Three spots left the deepest impression on me at the fishing terrace. One is the 'High Mountains and Long Rivers' memorial arch, where Deng Chao and Sun Li took a couple photo. So, like most visitors, I and others snapped pictures there, with the emerald Fuchun River on one side and its cultural depth on the other.
The tea house at the fishing terrace is another photo hotspot; this is where Deng Chao and Sun Li sat, sipping tea and enjoying the view by the river. And indeed, it's the best spot at the foot of the hill to admire the Fuchun River—drinking tea, relaxing, and taking in the scenery. Perhaps this is what Yan Ziling and all those famous visitors experienced; it's that mood, that atmosphere, that paradise that makes a true Instagram-worthy location.
The hike uphill takes some effort, but pushing on through bamboo groves and a long corridor of stele carvings, step by step to the top, you'll overlook the Fuchun River's waters and hills, and maybe grasp the mood of 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains.'
Along the path are sculptures of historical figures, all facing the river—some standing by the roadside, some seated among the bamboo, each sensing the landscape in their own way.
The stele corridor is another highlight, with poems by ancient luminaries carved on stone tablets. At the top, the two fishing terraces on the east and west offer different views; sitting here, you might just understand the joy Yan Ziling found years ago.
Attraction: Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace
Address: No. 1 Yunyuan Road, Fuchunjiang Town, Tonglu
Admission: 125 yuan, including boat ticket
Getting there: Driving is recommended
Daqi Mountain National Forest Park
A friend from Tonglu told me that Daqi Mountain was a must-visit spring outing spot during their childhood. Once you're here, you'll see why—hiking, green hills, clear waters, gorges, and waterfalls are all part of the experience. Daqi Mountain is hailed as the number one mountain in Jiangnan, with gentle slopes. The developed area sits at about 600 meters elevation and is known for its peaks, strange rocks, canyons, streams, and waterfalls—rugged, perilous, peculiar, elegant, and expansive. I remember my first visit when rain and clouds shrouded the mountain, but this time it was brilliantly sunny, revealing a different beauty.
Entering the scenic area, we were greeted by a recreation zone at the foot of the mountain with tea huts and various adventure activities—fun for both adults and kids.
Following the boardwalk deeper into Daqi Mountain, we found secluded gorges and dense forests. The walkways, pavilions, and stone bridges all harmonize with the mountain's unique rocks and canyons, unfurling a stunning landscape painting before our eyes. Countless waterfalls cascade along the way; every step brings a new view, with the sounds of rushing water, pitter-pattering rain, and visitors' laughter blending into a perfect symphony of nature.
Attraction: Daqi Mountain National Forest Park
Address: Daqi Mountain National Forest Park, Tonglu
Admission: 52 yuan
Getting there: Driving is recommended
Seeing the name Yaolin Wonderland (Yaolin Xianjing), don't you imagine a paradise-like place? Personally, I think it truly is a wonderland, but this paradise isn't in the sky—it's hidden in a mysterious cave. The cave is 'secluded, deep, fantastical, and elegant,' living up to its name.
As many know, Yaolin Wonderland is a massive karst cave filled with stalactites of stunning shapes. Strolling inside, you feel the 'secluded, deep, fantastical, and elegant' beauty of this magical underground world. The cave stretches one kilometer deep and covers 28,000 square meters, earning it the title of 'the finest cave in China.'
The moment you step inside, a cool breeze hits you—instant relief from the heat. A long tunnel greets and bids farewell with lights creating starry skies and rainbow effects, a dreamy feeling that adds a sense of time travel.
Then you enter the world of exquisite stalactites, which have existed for over a hundred million years. Through eons, drip by drip, they've formed into the shapes we see today, offering a paradise that sparks endless imagination.
Each stalactite is unique—some resemble lions, eagles, generals, or the ornate huabiao pillars in front of Tiananmen. Most remarkably, when the pillar-like formation reflects in the water, the visual effect is staggering, as if falling into an abyss, though the guide said the water is only three to four meters deep. The 'most handsome guy in the village' is at the spot called the Thirty-Three Heavens, the densest cluster in the cave. With lights on, the pure forms create a visual impact as stunning as the colors. This is a must-see.
In short, it's a kaleidoscope of wonders. These colorless living stones, under the lights, paint a vibrant, imaginative space. And the cave's natural giant stalactites might seem monochrome, but the scenic area has designed a naked-eye 3D light show projected onto the rocks, which is spectacular—vivid, looping, with stories that bring the world's changes to life in this small space, so realistic you feel immersed. It's worth stopping to savor.
Attraction: Yaolin Wonderland
Address: Yaolin Road, Taoyuan Village, Yaolin Town, Tonglu
Admission: 116 yuan
Getting there: Driving is recommended
Poetic and picturesque Fuchun River—a refreshing experience for me. During the day, the cruise at Yan Ziling Fishing Terrace already gave me a taste of the river's beauty. For a night cruise, head to Dongmen Wharf to board the pleasure boat, departing at 6:30 PM. Onboard is a sumptuous buffet dinner, so you can enjoy delicious food while taking in the night scenery. Did you know? The Fuchun River at night is especially romantic and mysterious.
The boat is called 'Fuchun Future,' elegantly decorated and perfectly complementing the river's 'green hills, clear water, long history, and serene environment.' It has three decks: the first and second are enclosed buffet restaurants, and the third is an open-air deck. As night falls, neon lights twinkle along both banks, and the boat sets off. While we were engrossed in dinner, a performance began on deck. After a few songs, even though the deck was crowded, everyone fell silent, seemingly moved by the romantic evening. Finally, at the crew's invitation, everyone—men, women, young and old—came to the main stage to dance and sing, adding a burst of enthusiasm to the night. It was great fun.
Attraction: Night Cruise on the Fuchun River
Address: Dongmen Wharf, Kaiyuan Street, Tonglu
Tickets: 218 yuan with dinner, 98 yuan without
Getting there: Driving is recommended
This is my second visit to the banks of the Fuchun River in Tonglu, and perhaps I'll come a third, a fourth time… As I said at the start, because the scenery and culture here have imprinted themselves on my heart, I need to return again and again to discover and feel them. Just like Tonglu in Zhejiang, a county that feels like a city, yet hides a living scroll: 'Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains'.
