Visiting Wuyuan in Jiangxi, Wuyi Mountain, and Suzhou & Hangzhou

In September 2021, we took our child to school. Total cost: 12,000 RMB, with 10,000 RMB actually spent on travel. I wasted money by taking a roundabout route and overspent on train tickets.

Transportation: Changchun–Nanchang three-person flight 2,250 RMB. Due to the pandemic, school start was postponed by a week, so I refunded 1,830 RMB and rebooked for 2,100 RMB, actually spending a total of 2,520 RMB. The rest were high-speed trains plus buses; no charter or taxi.

Accommodation: Total 2,305 RMB.

Nanchang: Two rooms for two days, 710 RMB.

Near People's Square in Jingdezhen, Campanile hotel, 226 RMB per night, stayed two days.

Huazhu – Huangling: 203 RMB.

Wuyi Mountain – Yinmeng Jingshe, 149 RMB per night, stayed two days (due to the pandemic and using Ctrip, the quote was low).

Hangzhou – Hanting near West Lake, two days: first day 228 RMB, second day with Huazhu Club gold card 201 RMB including one breakfast, actually a nearby McDonald's voucher.

Suzhou – Starway near train station, 213 RMB (Huazhu gold card included one breakfast, but the reception also gave an extra one).

Weather: Nanchang was really hot. As a northerner, I couldn't handle it and had to stay in air-conditioned places.

Planned route: Changchun – Nanchang – Jingdezhen – Wuyuan – Huangling – Qiandao Lake – Hangzhou – Suzhou – Cangzhou – Changchun.

Actual route: Changchun – Nanchang – Jingdezhen – Wuyuan – Huangling – Wuyi Mountain – Hangzhou – Suzhou – Nanjing – Cangzhou – Changchun.

Why the detour and not sticking to the plan? Because we heard Wuyi Mountain offered free admission, so we changed the route, which actually wasted train tickets. Originally, after Wuyi Mountain, we planned to go to Fujian, but because we had to visit my cousin in Cangzhou, we didn’t go. Just arrived in Hangzhou when I heard Fujian had a pandemic outbreak.

September 3: In the morning, first took a nucleic acid test. Took a high-speed train to Yanji, had lunch. Afternoon high-speed train to Changchun. The flight was delayed by an hour, arrived in Nanchang at 11 pm. Booked a pickup car for 70 RMB, slightly more expensive than a taxi, and was taken to a hotel near the school.

September 4: In the morning, the child went to school. In the afternoon, took the metro to Bayi Square.

Bayi Square, located in Donghu District, Nanchang, Jiangxi Province, at the intersection of Bayi Avenue, Beijing West Road, Zhongshan Road, Ruzi Road, and other major city streets, was originally called People's Square and built in 1952. Covering 78,000 square meters, it includes four main areas: the memorial area centered on the monument, the reminiscence area at the south end, the nostalgia area with eight reliefs, and the citizens' leisure area at the north end. Bayi Square is the heart of Nanchang, the largest urban square in Jiangxi, and an important venue for political, economic, cultural, entertainment, and leisure activities. It features the 'Bayi Nanchang Uprising Monument' inscribed by Marshal Ye Jianying. In 2010, eight 'military history reliefs' depicting the Nanchang Uprising, Autumn Harvest Uprising, Jinggangshan Struggle, Red Capital Ruijin, Long March, Anti-Japanese War behind enemy lines, Liberation War, and the Great Wall of Steel won the 'New China Urban Sculpture Achievement Award' from the Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development and the Ministry of Culture. (The above monument photo is from the internet; I didn't take it myself.) Took the metro to Qiushui Square, but the musical fountain wasn't operating due to the pandemic. Across is Tengwang Pavilion.

September 5: Accompanied the child for registration, bought some daily necessities. In the afternoon, took a high-speed train to Jingdezhen. Booked Campanile online for 226 RMB, near People's Square, close to the bus stop, convenient to everywhere, large room. Due to the pandemic, there were few tourists, so the price was not expensive. The hotel breakfast was decent.

September 6: Ancient Kiln Folklore Expo Area, ticket 85 RMB/person. The area is divided into the Historical Ancient Kiln Display Area and the Ceramic Folklore Display Area. Here you can see ancient kilns from the Song to Qing dynasties, recreating the appearance of Jingdezhen's porcelain industry in the 15th and 16th centuries, and enjoy unique porcelain music performances. Most buildings in the area are renovated old houses, letting visitors experience Jingdezhen's ceramic culture in an antique atmosphere. After entering the main gate, all sites have porcelain signposts. On the right is the Historical Ancient Kiln Display Area. First, you see the Fenghuo Xianshi Temple, dedicated to Tong Bin, who sacrificed himself for kiln firing during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty, revered as the Kiln God. Walking further, there is a row of workshops selling exquisite ceramic crafts, though prices are high. Further in is the highlight—ancient kilns from different eras: you can see the Qing Dynasty Zhen Kiln, Ming-Qing Imperial Kilns (Qing Kiln and Longgang Kiln), Ming Dynasty Hul-shaped Kiln, Yuan Dynasty Mantou Kiln, Song Dynasty Dragon Kiln. Spend a few yuan for a bowl of kiln worker tea, chat with the kiln masters to learn many stories about porcelain and ancient kilns; tea refills are free. On the left of the main gate is the Ceramic Folklore Display Area. First, see the Qing Dynasty architectural complex Qingyuan, walk through the porcelain tablet corridor to the end, where there is the Ming Dynasty complex Minglü. To the west of the porcelain tablet corridor is Ciyin Shuxie (Water Pavilion Stage), where you can watch free porcelain music performances—all instruments are made of porcelain. There was a performance, instruments all made of porcelain.

In the afternoon, I went to Yuyao Jingxiang, a project for the preservation and utilization of Jingdezhen's old city, located in the northern part of the old city along the Chang River, adjacent to the Yuyao Kiln National Archaeological Site Park. It runs from Zhongdukou in the south to Cidu Bridge in the north, total length 1.1 km, covering about 3.1 hectares, now a national 3A scenic spot. Here, 23 lanes formed after the Song Dynasty still remain, along with many historical structures like wharves, shops, residences, stages, guild halls, churches—tangible cultural heritage—and intangible heritage like porcelain-making techniques and folk customs are actively passed on. Unfortunately, it was under renovation. In the evening, had small yellow croaker at Jinding Commercial Plaza.

September 7: Campanile breakfast. Took a bus to the museum, free admission. In the afternoon, took a high-speed train to Wuyuan. Upon exiting, on the right, took a bus for 20 RMB to Huangling, passing villages like Lizhuang and Wangkou en route, ending at Huangling. Bought a combo ticket for 170 RMB, valid for an evening visit and the next day. We celebrated our 20th wedding anniversary, a memorable moment.

September 8: Continued exploring Huangling. In the afternoon, arrived at Nanping, took an express bus for 10 RMB per person to Wuyi Mountain. Free admission in September. Called the guesthouse owner who sent a car to pick us up. Off-season guesthouse was only 149 RMB, very quiet, with an indoor elevator, booked via Ctrip. The owner dropped us off at the entrance of Wuyi Mountain the next day. Dining was a bit inconvenient; nearby restaurants were expensive and not tasty, but we could order takeout. Guesthouse 149 RMB per night, with car pick-up and drop-off.

September 9: From the south entrance of Wuyi Mountain, took a little train to Tianyou Peak, a must-visit peak. Some parts were steep and tiring. In the afternoon, went to Yixiantian (One Line Sky). Then to Huxiao Rock (Tiger Roaring Rock). Huxiao Rock Scenic Area, south of Erqu Stream, elevation 510 meters, area 17 square km. It is closely connected to Yixiantian, located to the northeast. Huxiao Rock features red bed peak forests with deep ravines, waterfalls, and springs, full of charm, the top spot south of Wuyi streams, a single rock combining the beauty of many peaks. The name 'Huxiao' (tiger roar) comes from a legend where an immortal once rode a tiger and roared on the rock. Natural explanation: there is a huge cave on the rock; when mountain wind passes, it produces a sound like a tiger's roar—soft when faint, thundering when loud, hence the name. The cave is Huxi Lingdong. Finally took a bus to Yunü Peak (Jade Maiden Peak). Legend has it long ago, Wuyi Mountain was flooded with wild beasts; people suffered. Then a brave young man named Dawang (Great King) led everyone to cut through mountains, dredge rivers, and tamed the floods. The dredged river is today's Jiuqu Stream, and the excavated sand and stones formed the 36 peaks and 99 rocks. People prospered. One day, Yunü (Jade Maiden) rode clouds on an outing, became infatuated with Wuyi's beauty, descended to earth, and fell in love with Dawang. Unfortunately, Tieban Ghost found out and reported to the Jade Emperor, who was furious and ordered Yunü captured back to heaven. She refused, determined to marry Dawang. Tieban Ghost used magic to turn them into rocks, separated on opposite banks of Jiuqu Stream. To please the Jade Emperor, Tieban Ghost also turned into a rock barrier between them, guarding day and night—that's today's Tieban Zhang. Since then, the two could only gaze tearfully at each other through a mirror stand. Below Yunü Peak is Yuxiang Pool, where Yunü bathed; the 'Yin Stone' in the pool is a token of Dawang's love. East of Yunü Peak is a round stone like a mirror, smooth and shiny, called the Jade Maiden's dressing table; the cliffside inscription 'Jingtai' (Mirror Stand) is Wuyi Mountain's largest cliff carving. So tired, walked 30,000 steps; had some wine in the evening.

September 10: Took a bamboo raft at Wuyi Mountain, arrived at the shore after an hour, walked to see Dahongpao (Big Red Robe), then in the afternoon went to Hangzhou. The Dahongpao Scenic Area is named after the mother tree of Dahongpao, the king of Wuyi rock teas. It grows in Jiulongke in northern Wuyi Mountain; only a few mother trees remain, extremely precious. Main attractions include: Niulankeng, Yongle Chan Temple, Dahongpao, Sanhua Peak, Leishi Rock, Matou Rock, Wuyuan Cave, Duxia Rock. Mainly to see the temple Tianxin Yongle Chan Temple and the legendary divine tea Dahongpao. To see the mother trees, you walk a path with a cliff on the left and tea gardens on the right, rows of various types, but all are rock teas, Dahongpao being one. The mother trees grow on the rock face; they are no longer harvested, and production was very scarce even before. Dinner in Hangzhou at Grandma's Home, not as good as my visit in 2017; the much-anticipated Xishi tofu was also no longer available.

September 11: Hangzhou's Jiuxi (Nine Creeks) and West Lake. Took bus 39 (3 RMB) to Jiuxi. Walked ahead and took a sightseeing cart for 8 RMB to tour Jiuxi, admiring along the way; the air was so fresh. Walked to Meiwu, saw tea plantations. Took bus 87 to Su Causeway, toured West Lake. Yuewang Temple (Yue Fei Temple), also called Yuefen or Yue Fei's Tomb, located at 80 Beishan Road, Xihu District, Hangzhou, Zhejiang, at the northwest corner of West Lake, south foot of Qixia Ridge. Built in the 14th year of Jiading in the Southern Song (1221), renamed 'Zhonglie Temple' during the Jingtai period of Ming, it is the main place commemorating Yue Fei, a famous anti-Jin general of the Southern Song. It has risen and fallen through Yuan, Ming, Qing, and Republic eras, covering 15,700 sq m total, building area 3,000 sq m, consisting of the tomb area and temple area. The existing structure was rebuilt in the 54th year of Kangxi in Qing (1715). The entrance hall hangs the plaque 'Yuewang Temple'; the spirit path is 23 m long, ending at the main hall. The main hall has double eaves and a gabled roof, with the plaque 'Heart Shining Like the Sun and Sky' rewritten by Marshal Ye Jianying. On both sides of the hall are side halls originally housing statues of Niu Gao and Zhang Xian. West of Zhonglie Temple is Qizhong Shrine, originally with Yue Fei's parents in the main hall, his sons Yun, Lei, Lin, Zhen, Ting in the east wing, and his five daughters-in-law and daughter Yinping in the west wing. In 1961, it was designated a first batch national key cultural relic protection unit by the State Council. Had Dongpo pork nearby. In the afternoon, took a water bus to Gongchen Bridge, 3 RMB per person, from Wulin Square wharf. Evening dinner at Zhiweiguan.

September 12: Afternoon in Suzhou, visited Humble Administrator's Garden. The museum required advance reservation. Free, very crowded, didn't take photos. Bought some local specialties on the pedestrian street. Unfortunately, a typhoon was coming, rain was heavy, but the rainy Jiangnan water town was especially beautiful.

September 13: From Suzhou to Nanjing, then to Cangzhou. Due to the typhoon, we fled Suzhou, detoured via Nanjing to my cousin's home.

September 14: Enjoyed local food in Cangzhou.

September 15: Took an overnight slow train to Changchun.

September 16: Afternoon high-speed train. Had a hotpot meal at Wanda Plaza for 99 RMB. Arrived home in Changchun after 9 pm.