Love in Hometown: An Incredibly Romantic Autumn Journey in Jiande
My connection with Jiande began in the summer of 2017, and since then I have visited once or twice every year. Every reunion, Jiande has brought me surprises I had never experienced before.
On this autumn trip, chasing the light day after day in Jiande, I witnessed its breathtaking 12 double-hours. At the hour of the Dragon (7–9 a.m.), the morning sea of clouds surged among the mountains of Daci Yan; sunlight pierced through the clouds, illuminating the double-faced Buddha with dazzling radiance. At the hour of the Snake (9–11 a.m.), warm sunlight sprinkled over the Tea Zen Courtyard, red maple leaves swaying in the breeze as tea fragrance drifted into the hills. At the hour of the Horse (11 a.m.–1 p.m.), a delicate autumn breeze brushed past the ancient ginkgo tree, its leaves fluttering down to visitors while a Zen melody played. In the early afternoon at the hour of the Goat (1–3 p.m.), we strolled along the wutong-lined avenue in Aviation Town. Later, at the hour of the Monkey (3–5 p.m.), we chased the sunset at the General Airport. At the hour of the Dog (7–9 p.m.), we savored local delicacies on Shouchang Old Street. In Jiande, I encountered an incredibly romantic autumn journey…
[DAY 1 Misty Rain in Xinye, an Autumn Night Barbecue Party]
In the Jiangnan region in November, the autumn breeze carried a chill, accompanied by a drizzling autumn rain as we entered the ancient village of Xinye in Jiande. Speaking of Xinye, among the many famous water towns in Jiangnan, it may not be that well-known, but it still possesses unparalleled charm. The vegetable garden beside the village, branches laden with persimmons, and the straight pagoda in the distance—this was my first impression of Xinye, and it was already beautiful enough.
The ancient village of Xinye is the largest settlement of the Ye clan in China. Over centuries, as time passed, the Ye family built extensive residences here. Today, Xinye still preserves 16 ancient ancestral halls, old assembly halls, ancient pagodas, temples, and over 200 old residential buildings, earning it the reputation of an 'open-air museum of Ming and Qing architecture in China.'
Wandering through Xinye, every well, every pond, every carved wood, and every plaque was once the most dazzling of its kind. As the waves of history surged by, the place is no longer prosperous or bustling, and all that brilliance has gradually settled. This is the most lived-in ancient village I have ever visited.
In the past, Xinye also gained huge popularity due to the show 'Where Are We Going, Dad? Season 2,' and during that time it was incredibly noisy all day long. Compared to that period, I much prefer the Xinye I see now. As I gazed at the scene before me, it felt so familiar; scenes from the show instantly flashed through my mind.
Entering Xinye Ancient Village, revetments, arch bridges, water alleys, and narrow flagstone streets form the unique appearance of this ancient water town. The old river runs through quiet lanes lined with many Ming and Qing buildings. The crisscrossing lanes and alleyways are like the roots of an old locust tree, holding together ancient and modern houses. Here, distinctive ancestral halls unfold one after another; stepping inside, you can feel the unique ancestral hall culture of the Chinese nation.
The journey in Jiande was full of excitement from day to night. As dusk fell, our group arrived at Feifeng Spiritual Manor, where a lively and fun party awaited us. Feifeng Spiritual Manor is located in Daci Yan Town, Jiande. Around the manor, lotus ponds, rice paddies, vegetable gardens, and orchards take turns putting on a show throughout the seasons.
Under the night sky, the mountain air grew cooler. In our warm guesthouse, a couple of travel influencers shared their previous Jiande travel stories. We tasted freshly made Jiande specialty tofu buns, and at the party, a professional band gave a wonderful performance, followed by a barbecue feast and games around the campfire. It was truly a magical night.
[DAY 2 Surging Sea of Clouds, the Millennium Ginkgo at Daci Yan Astounds]
There are four seasons in a year, and as they rotate, the brilliant colors of autumn are brewed after a whole spring and summer’s preparation. Perhaps everyone has different preferences for the seasons—some love the blooming flowers of spring, some the fierce passion of summer, some the drifting snowflakes of winter. As for me, what I love most is autumn’s rich palette of colors.
Every autumn, when the wind turns the leaves yellow, I plan a leaf-viewing trip. Last year I went to Xinjiang, and this year it's Jiande in Hangzhou. The main autumn sightseeing spots in Jiande are clustered in Daci Yan Town. We stayed in a guesthouse village at the foot of Daci Yan. In the early morning, a sea of clouds surged among the mountains, creating an incredibly dreamy and enchanting scene.
The kind of trip I love is rich and varied—seeing picturesque scenery, experiencing fun activities, and enjoying a comfortable life. Waking up in the mountain guesthouse, warm sunlight filled the village. I went to the Tea Zen Courtyard, lifted a teacup, sipped tea, and basked in the warm sunshine of late autumn.
To enjoy autumn in Jiande, Daci Yan is a must-visit destination, if only for the nearly thousand-year-old ginkgo tree. Daci Yan is a scenic area that perfectly combines Buddhist culture with natural beauty, known as the 'Little Jiuhua in Western Zhejiang.' It is famous for its 'Jiangnan Suspended Temple, Long Valley Streams, and China's Number One Natural Standing Buddha.'
Entering the area, you first walk along the main path to the foot of the mountain, where you can either take the cable car or hike up the steps. To save energy for sightseeing, I recommend taking the cable car. After the cable car, the first attraction is the Suspended Temple, half embedded in the rock face and half suspended in the air—an astonishing and perilous sight.
After passing the Suspended Temple, follow the steps, sometimes climbing up and sometimes going down. In about ten minutes, you reach the next attraction—the Double-faced Buddha, a magnificent golden Buddha statue standing on the ridge. The Buddha has two faces: one facing the vast landscape ahead, the other facing the visitors on the mountain.
From here, you can see the main peak of Daci Yan, which resembles a Buddha with clear features and a lifelike image, completely natural and unhewn, hence called 'China's Largest Natural Standing Buddha.'
Our destination for the trip, the thousand-year-old ginkgo tree, is located on the main peak of Daci Yan. Although the two peaks echo each other, reaching the main peak still takes considerable effort—you need to descend and then climb again. The ancient ginkgo stands in front of Xinxiang Zhai (Fragrant Apricot Studio) on Daci Yan, towering 40 meters high and nearly a thousand years old. It can be called the king of ginkgo trees in Jiande.
Every late autumn, when the ginkgo tree sheds its leaves, the scene is breathtakingly gorgeous. Thus, 'Ciyan Autumn Colors' is honored as one of the 'Ten Scenic Sights of Xin’an,' attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. Arriving at Xinxiang Zhai, the sight before me was stunning: golden ginkgo leaves made the ancient tree look as if cast in gold, and the large square was covered with fallen leaves, utterly romantic to the extreme.
In Jiande, there is an Aviation Town, a large new-style tourism complex themed around aviation. I’m no stranger to Jiande or the Aviation Town, having visited twice before. But I didn’t know there was also the Xinlian Aviation Science Center and the Xinlian General Aviation Base—this time, I came especially for those.
Arriving at the General Airport, it mainly focuses on short-haul flights and high-altitude activities, such as flights from Jiande to Zhenjiang, and skydiving. Inside the airport, there is a Wukong Skydiving Base. Those wanting to skydive can come here, put on professional gear, learn the necessary skills under an instructor’s guidance, then board a plane to the high sky for an unparalleled challenge.
The Xinlian General Aviation Base is located in a more secluded part of the Aviation Town. The base is divided into three areas. The first area includes the front desk and waiting lounge, mainly for receiving visitors. Only those who have booked a flight experience can enter the lounge. To provide a better customer experience, the waiting process is highly ceremonial, and the lounge displays special souvenirs like stylish pilot jackets, pilot figurines, and more.
The second area is the hangar where helicopters are parked, and the third is the takeoff zone. Visitors can board a Robinson R44 Raven II helicopter here to begin a magical sky tour. Xinlian General Aviation offers nine aerial sightseeing routes, each varying in duration, sights, and price. This time, we experienced the 30-minute Zhijiang Route, which cost 1280 yuan per person. Although not cheap, I felt it was well worth it and offered great value.
Nowadays, parents increasingly focus on their children's overall development. Even when traveling, they tend to choose educational attractions. As a result, educational trips are becoming more popular. In Aviation Town, there is such a place perfect for taking children: the Xinlian Aviation Science Center, adjacent to the Xinlian General Aviation Base.
Here, a unique journey begins with changing into aviation suits provided for the children to spark their interest. The science center has two floors: the first floor is mainly for exhibitions, and the second floor is dedicated to teaching and hands-on crafting. Upon entering, the first thing that catches your eye is a vibrantly colored aircraft. In the second exhibition hall, various models are on display—from the earliest planes to China’s latest J-20 fighter and the domestically built large aircraft. Almost every domestic military and civil aviation model can be seen here. Moreover, you can learn about the history of aviation development.
The Jiande Xinlian Aviation Science Center features a high-tech aviation exhibition hall, where you can learn aviation history through immersive surround screens. Not only are various aircraft and fighter jet models on display, but you can also try helicopter flight simulators under staff guidance. This is a treasure trove for both aviation enthusiasts and military fans.
After nightfall, we went to Shouchang 909 Night Market. Here, we not only tasted delicious Jiande dishes but also joined a '100 Yuan Challenge.' We split into two teams and competed to buy five types of local snacks at the 909 Night Market. The team that purchased five kinds the fastest would win. Lotus pastry, jing zao (candied jujubes), onion-stick candy... these flavors from childhood memories can still be found here. Such a game made this trip especially memorable.
[Catching Crabs, Picking Strawberries: A Nature-filled Trip in Jiande]
This trip to Jiande was not only a journey of autumn scenery and local cuisine but also a rural adventure brimming with natural fun—and that rural adventure began with feeding goats. 'Herding, chopping wood, facing the sea'—such is the idyllic dream of many artistic youths. In Jiande, you can experience the joy of herding.
Baoyuan Farm, nestled within the mountains and forests of Jiande, has winding mountain roads and beautiful autumn colors on both sides—Jiande is full of scenic views everywhere. Baoyuan Farm is a modern goat milk production facility and also a new-style themed farm. Here you can see adorable dairy goats and even feed them yourself.
The owner of Baoyuan Farm was originally in the construction industry. After the 2008 milk powder scandal, he invested in this farm to provide more people with fresh, healthy milk. Here you can not only feed and herd goats but also taste the freshest goat milk, which is incredibly rich and creamy.
'When the autumn wind blows, crab legs itch'—this is the perfect season for hairy crabs. I’ve traveled many places and eaten plenty of hairy crabs, but catching them was a first. We arrived at Dayang Town in Jiande, where crabs are very famous locally. The hairy crabs here are large and of excellent quality, beloved by locals. We split into two groups, each with nets, engaging in a crab-catching contest.
When in Dayang Town, you can’t miss the local cuisine. We went to a very characteristic restaurant—Xie Xie Mountain Villa (Crab Pavilion), aptly named as a good place for crab. To savor the pure taste of hairy crabs, steaming is the best way, paired with ginger and crab vinegar for incredible freshness. If you’re like me, a spice lover, don’t miss the crab-braised fish, which combines crab and fish, two river delicacies, in a spicy dish that is perfect with rice.
When the server told us the dish was crispy fried mulberry leaves, we were amazed, as we had just fed mulberry leaves to the goats that morning. We never expected mulberry leaves could be cooked—and they turned out crispy and delicious.
Spicy lamb spine (yangxiezi)—as the weather gets colder, lamb spine is definitely the perfect seasonal dish. It’s also one of the restaurant's specialties, well-marinated in spicy flavors with tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat.
In Jiande, during strawberry season, don’t miss the popular Yangcunqiao Strawberry Picking Base. It’s right next to Jiande’s high-speed train station, making it very convenient whether you drive or take the train. Arriving there, you’ll see endless rows of strawberry greenhouses—this place is truly enormous.
At the strawberry base, there’s a great photo spot called 'Castle in the Sky.' It’s named so because the strawberries here grow suspended in the air. Compared to traditional ground-level strawberries, picking here is much easier as you don’t need to bend down. It’s also more photogenic. However, the strawberries in the 'Castle in the Sky' area weren’t ripe yet at the time.
As strawberries were just coming into season, there were not many greenhouses open for picking yet, but we could still enjoy the fun. Bright red Jiande strawberries—we picked and popped the good ones into our mouths, savoring their sweet-tart flavor.
On this three-day, two-night trip, Jiande gave us far more joy than I had imagined. This autumn, if you’re unsure where to go, why not visit Jiande? You’ll enjoy a trip unlike any other.
